Help! Assembling propeller on Flite Test Radial (A) motor

[EGT]

Total beginners here, trying to avoid a mistake... Two questions about finishing our power pod:

Question 1: What is the proper sequence and orientation of the "washer", prop and nose cone on the Radial motor? The washer is convex on one face and textured for locking on the other. Not sure if it goes on before the prop or between prop and nose cone and whether it should be oriented with convex face out or in. And where does the locknut fit in the sequence? (See pics) The video for power pod assembly uses a different motor/prop and skips over this part of the process.

Question 2: Without the notch in the top right of the firewall, we'll have to bend the wires at a hard right angle coming off the motor itself to get it through the large rectangular hole. Is it ok to wrench the point of connection so hard or should we cut a notch in the firewall to allow the wire to go up and over (instead of straight back and through?)

 

[Mr Man]

Answer1: washer goes on first, convex side out so it can grab the prop.
Answer2: Don’t wrench them, just gently persuade until it goes into one of the holes.

P.S. What plane are you building?

 

[Flyingshark]

Total beginners here, trying to avoid a mistake... Two questions about finishing our power pod:

Question 1: What is the proper sequence and orientation of the "washer", prop and nose cone on the Radial motor? The washer is convex on one face and textured for locking on the other. Not sure if it goes on before the prop or between prop and nose cone and whether it should be oriented with convex face out or in. And where does the locknut fit in the sequence? (See pics) The video for power pod assembly uses a different motor/prop and skips over this part of the process.
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Question 2: Without the notch in the top right of the firewall, we'll have to bend the wires at a hard right angle coming off the motor itself to get it through the large rectangular hole. Is it ok to wrench the point of connection so hard or should we cut a notch in the firewall to allow the wire to go up and over (instead of straight back and through?)

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The lock nut or the "nose cone" don't need to be used at the same time, so just pick one of them. I personally like the peace of mind that comes with using a lock nut over something without a nylon insert. I take a tool with the right size socket to tighten that nut with me to the field, but using a tiny allen key or a piece of pushrod through the hole of the "nose cone" could be easier for you. I think the washer is a relatively new addition to the kits (none of my power packs from a few years ago came with one), but it would make sense to put it between the motor can and the prop like @Mr Man said.

For question 2, if gentle persuasion doesn't work (the silicone-insulated wires themselves are pretty flexible, so I've had success with that), you could just have them come over the top of the firewall. If there isn't any room, you could cut some of the foam away around where the wires need to go with an x-acto knife—I did this on both of my FT Vectors to make a little extra room. I'd avoid cutting parts out of the firewall though since that would make it lose some strength and we want it to be solid enough to keep the motor nice and secure.

 

[Mr Man]

The lock nut or the "nose cone" don't need to be used at the same time, so just pick one of them. I personally like the peace of mind that comes with using a lock nut over something without a nylon insert. I take a tool with the right size socket to tighten that nut with me to the field, but using a tiny allen key or a piece of pushrod through the hole of the "nose cone" could be easier for you. I think the washer is a relatively new addition to the kits (none of my power packs from a few years ago came with one), but it would make sense to put it between the motor can and the prop like @Mr Man said.

For question 2, if gentle persuasion doesn't work (the silicone-insulated wires themselves are pretty flexible, so I've had success with that), you could just have them come over the top of the firewall. If there isn't any room, you could cut some of the foam away around where the wires need to go with an x-acto knife—I did this on both of my FT Vectors to make a little extra room. I'd avoid cutting parts out of the firewall though since that would make it lose some strength and we want it to be solid enough to keep the motor nice and secure.

I act tot forgot about the lock nut cus I never use em.

 

[Mr Man]

Cause I never have them.