Help! Assembling propeller on Flite Test Radial (A) motor

EGT

New member
Total beginners here, trying to avoid a mistake... Two questions about finishing our power pod:

Question 1: What is the proper sequence and orientation of the "washer", prop and nose cone on the Radial motor? The washer is convex on one face and textured for locking on the other. Not sure if it goes on before the prop or between prop and nose cone and whether it should be oriented with convex face out or in. And where does the locknut fit in the sequence? (See pics) The video for power pod assembly uses a different motor/prop and skips over this part of the process.
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Question 2: Without the notch in the top right of the firewall, we'll have to bend the wires at a hard right angle coming off the motor itself to get it through the large rectangular hole. Is it ok to wrench the point of connection so hard or should we cut a notch in the firewall to allow the wire to go up and over (instead of straight back and through?)

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Mr Man

Mr SPEED!
Answer1: washer goes on first, convex side out so it can grab the prop.
Answer2: Don’t wrench them, just gently persuade until it goes into one of the holes.

P.S. What plane are you building?
 

Flyingshark

Master member
Total beginners here, trying to avoid a mistake... Two questions about finishing our power pod:

Question 1: What is the proper sequence and orientation of the "washer", prop and nose cone on the Radial motor? The washer is convex on one face and textured for locking on the other. Not sure if it goes on before the prop or between prop and nose cone and whether it should be oriented with convex face out or in. And where does the locknut fit in the sequence? (See pics) The video for power pod assembly uses a different motor/prop and skips over this part of the process.
View attachment 246566
View attachment 246567

Question 2: Without the notch in the top right of the firewall, we'll have to bend the wires at a hard right angle coming off the motor itself to get it through the large rectangular hole. Is it ok to wrench the point of connection so hard or should we cut a notch in the firewall to allow the wire to go up and over (instead of straight back and through?)

View attachment 246568
View attachment 246569
View attachment 246570
The lock nut or the "nose cone" don't need to be used at the same time, so just pick one of them. I personally like the peace of mind that comes with using a lock nut over something without a nylon insert. I take a tool with the right size socket to tighten that nut with me to the field, but using a tiny allen key or a piece of pushrod through the hole of the "nose cone" could be easier for you. I think the washer is a relatively new addition to the kits (none of my power packs from a few years ago came with one), but it would make sense to put it between the motor can and the prop like @Mr Man said.

For question 2, if gentle persuasion doesn't work (the silicone-insulated wires themselves are pretty flexible, so I've had success with that), you could just have them come over the top of the firewall. If there isn't any room, you could cut some of the foam away around where the wires need to go with an x-acto knife—I did this on both of my FT Vectors to make a little extra room. I'd avoid cutting parts out of the firewall though since that would make it lose some strength and we want it to be solid enough to keep the motor nice and secure.
 

Mr Man

Mr SPEED!
The lock nut or the "nose cone" don't need to be used at the same time, so just pick one of them. I personally like the peace of mind that comes with using a lock nut over something without a nylon insert. I take a tool with the right size socket to tighten that nut with me to the field, but using a tiny allen key or a piece of pushrod through the hole of the "nose cone" could be easier for you. I think the washer is a relatively new addition to the kits (none of my power packs from a few years ago came with one), but it would make sense to put it between the motor can and the prop like @Mr Man said.

For question 2, if gentle persuasion doesn't work (the silicone-insulated wires themselves are pretty flexible, so I've had success with that), you could just have them come over the top of the firewall. If there isn't any room, you could cut some of the foam away around where the wires need to go with an x-acto knife—I did this on both of my FT Vectors to make a little extra room. I'd avoid cutting parts out of the firewall though since that would make it lose some strength and we want it to be solid enough to keep the motor nice and secure.
I act tot forgot about the lock nut cus I never use em.
 

jetman

New member
Total beginners here, trying to avoid a mistake... Two questions about finishing our power pod:

Question 1: What is the proper sequence and orientation of the "washer", prop and nose cone on the Radial motor? The washer is convex on one face and textured for locking on the other. Not sure if it goes on before the prop or between prop and nose cone and whether it should be oriented with convex face out or in. And where does the locknut fit in the sequence? (See pics) The video for power pod assembly uses a different motor/prop and skips over this part of the process.
View attachment 246566
View attachment 246567

Question 2: Without the notch in the top right of the firewall, we'll have to bend the wires at a hard right angle coming off the motor itself to get it through the large rectangular hole. Is it ok to wrench the point of connection so hard or should we cut a notch in the firewall to allow the wire to go up and over (instead of straight back and through?)

View attachment 246568
View attachment 246569
View attachment 246570
Watch out for the angle of attack degrees on these flight test kits their wrong....
 

jetman

New member
This is what I have and it's what I found I have the completely built the XL triplane and I found a motor part of the angle of attack is totally backwards 180° out if you looking at the front of the aircraft it showing the degrees on the right side.. this should be on the left.. if you looking at the aircraft in the front you should have six degrees to the left in about 4° down.. for some reason y'all have it cut to the right.. and again this is looking at the aircraft at the front.. I caught this and I corrected the problem and this thing flies great I just want everybody else to be aware .. when you buy a kit. You're going to run into this.....
Watch out for the angle of attack degrees on these flight test kits their wrong....

Actually I have found you need that thrust angle...It will fly poorly if it doesn't have it.
The angle of attack. What they have Incorporated on the triplane .is incorrect.. it's in reverse.. I had to readjust this with washers and shims.. my angle of attack if you're looking at the airplane now from the front is six degrees to the left and about 4° down.. this is what the prop going CCW.. y'all had to angle of attack. On the right side of the motor pod looking at the aircraft from the front... Yes you do need angle of attack on all aircrafts... I'm just telling you all this because on the triplane xl.. y'all have the motor pod Miss cut...
 

jetman

New member
Hmm, I’ve never heard of this happening before…..
If you want me to I can show you a video and pics on where they made a bad mistake on the miscut of the motorpod .. they have an angle of attack Incorporated on the wrong side.. I caught this and I straightened it out and this XL TRIPLANE. FLIES PERFECT....... MAYBE THE MISSED CUT MAYBE JUST ON THIS AIRCRAFT... BUT I INCORPORATE BINGO OF ATTACK ON EVERY ONE OF MY AIRCRAFTS I'VE BEEN DOING THIS FOR 40 YEARS......
 

AIRFORGE

Make It Fly!
Moderator
@jetman
The power pod for the FT Triplane XL is designed with right thrust. It is correct.
If you have left thrust, it is very likely you have installed the power pod upside-down.
Be sure to double check correct orientation of the pod and turn it over if needed. (y)
 

Houndpup Rc

Legendary member
This is what I have and it's what I found I have the completely built the XL triplane and I found a motor part of the angle of attack is totally backwards 180° out if you looking at the front of the aircraft it showing the degrees on the right side.. this should be on the left.. if you looking at the aircraft in the front you should have six degrees to the left in about 4° down.. for some reason y'all have it cut to the right.. and again this is looking at the aircraft at the front.. I caught this and I corrected the problem and this thing flies great I just want everybody else to be aware .. when you buy a kit. You're going to run into this.....



The angle of attack. What they have Incorporated on the triplane .is incorrect.. it's in reverse.. I had to readjust this with washers and shims.. my angle of attack if you're looking at the airplane now from the front is six degrees to the left and about 4° down.. this is what the prop going CCW.. y'all had to angle of attack. On the right side of the motor pod looking at the aircraft from the front... Yes you do need angle of attack on all aircrafts... I'm just telling you all this because on the triplane xl.. y'all have the motor pod Miss cut...
Just want to let you know..The angle on the power pod is called "Thrust angle" the way your wing is angled inside a plane is the "Angle of Attack"(y);)