Cutting foam sheets... with a needle!
- Thread starter dkj4linux
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dkj4linux
Elite member
Thanks for the kind words, Jason.
No, I've not tried TPU (or any other "exotic" plastic) yet. I tend to be a creature of habit and the PLA does nicely for me... and my Prusa is dialed in pretty well and I'd hate to mess with it. At one time, I had ordered wheels from Ryan's shop, thinking I might build a LowRider... but I never got around to it, so I had these on hand already when I made the decision to build the Foam Ripper.
And, you're right, Tommy... this CNC stuff can indeed become "an end unto itself", if you let it [which I have...]. But ONE machine is never enough... especially when they just keep getting better and better
-- David
No, I've not tried TPU (or any other "exotic" plastic) yet. I tend to be a creature of habit and the PLA does nicely for me... and my Prusa is dialed in pretty well and I'd hate to mess with it. At one time, I had ordered wheels from Ryan's shop, thinking I might build a LowRider... but I never got around to it, so I had these on hand already when I made the decision to build the Foam Ripper.
And, you're right, Tommy... this CNC stuff can indeed become "an end unto itself", if you let it [which I have...]. But ONE machine is never enough... especially when they just keep getting better and better
-- David
moebeast
Member
Hey! I've missed you guys. Thanks David for reaching out on email.
The side plates for the Foam Ripper do still need refinement, but life sort of got in the way of developement. Originally I was planning to use the small belt guide rollers like the Low Rider, but I didn't have any on hand, so I used a drill after the machine was assembled to locate the 6088 bearings.
Rockyboy, even more portable than the door I am using is to make the rails long enough to span a standard folding table. A stiff vacuum pad might be the key to that set up. That was my vision for FlightFest 2018, but when the time came, I decided to spend this year actually flying and helping the kids build planes.
Jason, I don't know what to say. I feel like you are one of my best friends that I haven't actually met yet. You have given so much to this community and helped probably more people than you realize with their dream of cutting foam with a needle. Now, is the time for you to focus on your daughter. Please login from time to time and let us know how you are doing.
Mark
The side plates for the Foam Ripper do still need refinement, but life sort of got in the way of developement. Originally I was planning to use the small belt guide rollers like the Low Rider, but I didn't have any on hand, so I used a drill after the machine was assembled to locate the 6088 bearings.
Rockyboy, even more portable than the door I am using is to make the rails long enough to span a standard folding table. A stiff vacuum pad might be the key to that set up. That was my vision for FlightFest 2018, but when the time came, I decided to spend this year actually flying and helping the kids build planes.
Jason, I don't know what to say. I feel like you are one of my best friends that I haven't actually met yet. You have given so much to this community and helped probably more people than you realize with their dream of cutting foam with a needle. Now, is the time for you to focus on your daughter. Please login from time to time and let us know how you are doing.
Mark
dkj4linux
Elite member
Welcome back, Mark. You, too, have been missed. Please don't make yourself scarce around here... we need your input!
Seriously, I, too, feel that you guys -- all of you -- are my family. And, though I've never met any of you face-to-face, we've talked and shared and put our heads together toward a common end... to the point that I really miss you, if/when you're away for a while. Growing and learning together... I NEED it, every day. It's good to have you back... Jason... Mark... Dublin Dave... all of you!
And, now [suddenly snapping out of it]... back to our regular programming
-- David
Seriously, I, too, feel that you guys -- all of you -- are my family. And, though I've never met any of you face-to-face, we've talked and shared and put our heads together toward a common end... to the point that I really miss you, if/when you're away for a while. Growing and learning together... I NEED it, every day. It's good to have you back... Jason... Mark... Dublin Dave... all of you!
And, now [suddenly snapping out of it]... back to our regular programming
-- David
moebeast
Member
The Ikea table top here is a more convenient sized 29.5"x59"x1 3/8" for $30 if you are near a store ($79 shipping to my house). I checked them out on a trip to Atlanta and they are very flat and stiffer than the hollow door slabs.
I think the four wheel set up would work. I would spread the wheels a bit for stability. It would also be less awkward when it isn't mounted on the table.
I think the four wheel set up would work. I would spread the wheels a bit for stability. It would also be less awkward when it isn't mounted on the table.
Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
Please excuse me if my question appears somewhat stupid but I cannot find any dimensions mentioned on the printed parts anywhere. So I am unable to ascertain what bed size I would require for my 3D printer.
I ordered one and now it is on the slow boat from China. It was very cheap but not a tiny bed I just am trying to ascertain as to whether I should build a larger 3D printer first or go straight into building a CNC.
Currently I have no software loaded so if the dimension data on the parts is in the files what viewer should I load up or install?
Have fun!
I ordered one and now it is on the slow boat from China
. It was very cheap but not a tiny bed I just am trying to ascertain as to whether I should build a larger 3D printer first or go straight into building a CNC.Currently I have no software loaded so if the dimension data on the parts is in the files what viewer should I load up or install?
Have fun!
dkj4linux
Elite member
Please excuse me if my question appears somewhat stupid but I cannot find any dimensions mentioned on the printed parts anywhere. So I am unable to ascertain what bed size I would require for my 3D printer.
I ordered one and now it is on the slow boat from China
Currently I have no software loaded so if the dimension data on the parts is in the files what viewer should I load up or install?
Have fun!
Are you asking what build volume you need for a 3d printer that will allow you build an MPCNC... a LowRider... or most of the other printed stuff we commonly talk about here?
If so, a build volume of 200mm x 200mm x 200mm will generally do it. That's actually a pretty easy requirement to meet nowadays. I'd stay away from anything less.
Hai-Lee
Old and Bold RC PILOT
Sadly a little late. The printer on route is 150x150x150mm Build area. So it appears that I may have to either enlarge the structure of the machine or build a new one with sufficient bed area. With hindsight had the printer requirements been mentioned I might not have purchased the printer I did. Oh well at least I get something to learn on for a while!
At $200AUD delivered from china it is not a huge expense and I believe I could easily recover my outlays locally even after playing with it!
Thank you for your response! Off flying now!
Have fun!
dkj4linux
Elite member
MOST printed parts for the CNC work I do not push the limits at 200mm on each dimension. Your slightly smaller machine should allow you to do many of the parts you'll want to do. And it will certainly give you opportunity to learn the essentials of what you need to do to make good, functional, 3d printed parts.
moebeast
Member
My first 3D printer had the same volume as your kit. I printed all the parts for my original MPCNC on that printer, so it might work.
dkj4linux
Elite member
Here's, actually, one of the larger prints I've done recently... Mark's vacuum fitting! What a fun and impressive print! It took just under 4 hours to complete...
Getting ready for the day I have a vacuum pad, similar to the ones Jason and Mark have both shown on their foam cutters.
And, while that was printing -- after my nap and with Spiderman3 going in the background -- I began wiring up the X motors on my FoamRipper build. Since only the X-axis (the length of the door) has dual motors, I went into pins_RAMPS.h and swapped the X and Z axis pins... so that I could just use the double row of pins normally reserved for the Z-axis on most 3d printers. Movement was nice and smooth... used RepetierHost script to simply run the axis back and forth a number of times (0mm to 1000mm). I'll have to make a slight steps/mm adjustment... apparently I picked 20-tooth timing pulleys out of my stash rather than 16-tooth pulleys normally used with MPCNC.
Anyway, I'm encouraged that the FoamRipper is moving nicely so far. Hopefully I can get the other two axis going tomorrow. Possibly I'll print a crown... or air-mill a plane
-- David
Edited: Better video... movements to correct scale, ranging from 0 to 1300mm. Yardstick, sheet of DTFB, and vacuum fitting for reference.
Getting ready for the day I have a vacuum pad, similar to the ones Jason and Mark have both shown on their foam cutters.
And, while that was printing -- after my nap and with Spiderman3 going in the background -- I began wiring up the X motors on my FoamRipper build. Since only the X-axis (the length of the door) has dual motors, I went into pins_RAMPS.h and swapped the X and Z axis pins... so that I could just use the double row of pins normally reserved for the Z-axis on most 3d printers. Movement was nice and smooth... used RepetierHost script to simply run the axis back and forth a number of times (0mm to 1000mm). I'll have to make a slight steps/mm adjustment... apparently I picked 20-tooth timing pulleys out of my stash rather than 16-tooth pulleys normally used with MPCNC.
Anyway, I'm encouraged that the FoamRipper is moving nicely so far. Hopefully I can get the other two axis going tomorrow. Possibly I'll print a crown... or air-mill a plane
-- David
Edited: Better video... movements to correct scale, ranging from 0 to 1300mm. Yardstick, sheet of DTFB, and vacuum fitting for reference.
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dkj4linux
Elite member
An update...
As much as I like the idea of incorporating the MPCNC tool mount into the Z-axis... I just didn't like the longer cantilever it added to Mark's original design. I really don't think it would have been a problem, as the tool forces while needle-cutting are small... but I just didn't like the look of it and I really doubt I'll be changing tool heads too often.
So I took Mark's original Z-carriage (which incorporates the needle cutter) and imported it into Tinkercad. There's a lot to dislike about Tinkercad but Onshape can't work directly with the STLs... and I only wanted to do minor mods to Mark's design. Basically, with the slip-on flywheel the overall length of motor/flywheel/needle assembly is reduced, so the needle guide moves closer to the backplate. And I wanted to change the motor mount hole pattern for the same Emax CF2822 motor I've been using. So using Tinkercad I chopped out a 16mm section of the horizontal needle guide platform and then joined the resulting two pieces back together -- moving the needle guide directly under the needle-flywheel connection once again -- and added the motor mount hole pattern.
I then hooked up the Z-axis motor and adjusted the Z-axis steps/mm setting in the Marlin firmware to get the correct amount of commanded movement. Here are the initial 25mm moves after making those adjustment... close enough
I also got in the proper idler bearing, ordered from Amazon, for the Y-axis and adjusted the belt for better clearance.
I suspect a good initial test for the needle cutter will be to cut the slots and holes for the DTFB vacuum pad. I hope to be able to get started on that later this afternoon. I watched Jason's video again this morning to make sure I'm thinking it through clearly. I'm sorry for being so slow and deliberate...
Later...
-- David
As much as I like the idea of incorporating the MPCNC tool mount into the Z-axis... I just didn't like the longer cantilever it added to Mark's original design. I really don't think it would have been a problem, as the tool forces while needle-cutting are small... but I just didn't like the look of it and I really doubt I'll be changing tool heads too often.
So I took Mark's original Z-carriage (which incorporates the needle cutter) and imported it into Tinkercad. There's a lot to dislike about Tinkercad but Onshape can't work directly with the STLs... and I only wanted to do minor mods to Mark's design. Basically, with the slip-on flywheel the overall length of motor/flywheel/needle assembly is reduced, so the needle guide moves closer to the backplate. And I wanted to change the motor mount hole pattern for the same Emax CF2822 motor I've been using. So using Tinkercad I chopped out a 16mm section of the horizontal needle guide platform and then joined the resulting two pieces back together -- moving the needle guide directly under the needle-flywheel connection once again -- and added the motor mount hole pattern.
I then hooked up the Z-axis motor and adjusted the Z-axis steps/mm setting in the Marlin firmware to get the correct amount of commanded movement. Here are the initial 25mm moves after making those adjustment... close enough
I also got in the proper idler bearing, ordered from Amazon, for the Y-axis and adjusted the belt for better clearance.
I suspect a good initial test for the needle cutter will be to cut the slots and holes for the DTFB vacuum pad. I hope to be able to get started on that later this afternoon. I watched Jason's video again this morning to make sure I'm thinking it through clearly. I'm sorry for being so slow and deliberate...
Later...
-- David
I Love It!!!
Honestly, I am seeing a design mod already. Decrease the cantilever effect even more by making those two bearings between the rails. Then recess the cutter even further into Y body.
Just a thought.
If you want to share the STL's as they are, I could model those mods in Fusion 360 and get a feel for what they look like.
Honestly, I am seeing a design mod already. Decrease the cantilever effect even more by making those two bearings between the rails. Then recess the cutter even further into Y body.
Just a thought.
If you want to share the STL's as they are, I could model those mods in Fusion 360 and get a feel for what they look like.
dkj4linux
Elite member
Thanks, Tommy. Feel free to join in!
You can find the STLs for Mark's machine out on his Foam Ripper page
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2520214
My plan is to get Mark's machine running pretty much as he designed it first. After that I may start playing around with it some more...
I was developing a similar, symmetric, narrow-wheelbase version at about the same time Mark was developing his and was really happy with the Z-lift mechanism... it was nice and smooth. I may revisit it at some point down the line.
I was doing the X-carriage for my Phlatprinter-inspired machine at the time... if you want to take a look
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2528032
Last night, when trying to plot Ryan's crown, I decided a quick-change Z-body might be in order after all. I whipped up a Hicwic QC version just for grins... might give it a try as well.
-- David
You can find the STLs for Mark's machine out on his Foam Ripper page
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2520214
My plan is to get Mark's machine running pretty much as he designed it first. After that I may start playing around with it some more...
I was developing a similar, symmetric, narrow-wheelbase version at about the same time Mark was developing his and was really happy with the Z-lift mechanism... it was nice and smooth. I may revisit it at some point down the line.
I was doing the X-carriage for my Phlatprinter-inspired machine at the time... if you want to take a look
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2528032
Last night, when trying to plot Ryan's crown, I decided a quick-change Z-body might be in order after all. I whipped up a Hicwic QC version just for grins... might give it a try as well.
-- David
dkj4linux
Elite member
Well, finally...
my Foam Ripper build has progressed to the point that I can begin some testing and fine-tuning… first, the obligatory crown plot...
and then a brief run-up of the needle-cutter, with slip-on flywheel...
Currently using the 32″ x 80″ interior door for the work surface, I found that the roll-around wire-shelf unit didn't provide enough support, so it now sits atop a 30" x 60" folding table...
Squaring the gantry...
Could probably use a smaller servo tester...
As CNC machines go, this may be one of the easiest machines to find room for… it can be made “knock-down” for portability and/or storage. The bed needs to only be large enough to allow for cutting to the extremes of a sheet of DTFB, or whatever sheet material you want to cut. The rolling gantry is easily rolled off the bed, is not-too-heavy (20 lbs?), and will stand up in a corner. The belts are simply clamped along the edge of the bed for use. The bed is stored away like any other panel. Saw horses or a folding table hold it all up in use. No computer required to operate, the LCD controller and electronics can be attached to the end plate… so it stores with the gantry.
This has been a fun build. Eventually, I plan to down-size the work-surface and move this machine into the bedroom I’ve set aside for hobby storage and additional work-area. Cutting foam with the needle cutter is not terribly loud and generates little debris so hopefully it will be happy there, not occupying “center stage” in my living area…
-- David
my Foam Ripper build has progressed to the point that I can begin some testing and fine-tuning… first, the obligatory crown plot...
and then a brief run-up of the needle-cutter, with slip-on flywheel...
Currently using the 32″ x 80″ interior door for the work surface, I found that the roll-around wire-shelf unit didn't provide enough support, so it now sits atop a 30" x 60" folding table...
Squaring the gantry...
Could probably use a smaller servo tester...
As CNC machines go, this may be one of the easiest machines to find room for… it can be made “knock-down” for portability and/or storage. The bed needs to only be large enough to allow for cutting to the extremes of a sheet of DTFB, or whatever sheet material you want to cut. The rolling gantry is easily rolled off the bed, is not-too-heavy (20 lbs?), and will stand up in a corner. The belts are simply clamped along the edge of the bed for use. The bed is stored away like any other panel. Saw horses or a folding table hold it all up in use. No computer required to operate, the LCD controller and electronics can be attached to the end plate… so it stores with the gantry.
This has been a fun build. Eventually, I plan to down-size the work-surface and move this machine into the bedroom I’ve set aside for hobby storage and additional work-area. Cutting foam with the needle cutter is not terribly loud and generates little debris so hopefully it will be happy there, not occupying “center stage” in my living area…
-- David
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moebeast
Member
That is great David! Thanks for sharing your build experience. That was a good idea for the spring on the pen holder.
Tommy, I could probably figure out how to share my Fusion360 files with you to make them easier to play with. They are a big mess because I was learning as I went. I was working on a Z axis piece that was more compact, but ran into some interference somewhere.
Tommy, I could probably figure out how to share my Fusion360 files with you to make them easier to play with. They are a big mess because I was learning as I went. I was working on a Z axis piece that was more compact, but ran into some interference somewhere.
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