Cutting foam sheets... with a needle!

dkj4linux

Elite member
I'm thinking of getting this:
http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=144

so that I can print the parts for the Mostly Printed CNC. Is a printbed of 100X100X125mm enough for all the parts?

Finnen,

Many/most of the parts for MPCNC and accessories are too large for that printer. I don't know how difficult it is to get in Sweden but I bought/built this machine (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Folger-Tech...usa-i3-RepRap-3D-Printer-1-75mm-/231572342806) about 6 months ago and it has been great for all the MPCNC and foam cutter work I've done. It is a kit and will have to be assembled but is complete, reasonably easy to put together, and can be used with an inexpensive (optional) LCD controller and SD card... all for less than $300 USD. -- David

20160114_081754.jpg
 

finnen

Senior Member
Thanks for the reply.

I actually just found your thread =) For me, it would be close to 400$ with shipping. Some research gave me this option:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-..._ab_test=201556_5,201527_4_71_72_73_74_75,0_0

I'm thinking about going that route. I have some other projects to finish before I start with this, I have promised myself to finish a project before I start a new one, otherwise I will (as usual) end up with a whole lot of semi finished projects :D
 

dkj4linux

Elite member
Well here it is!

That looks great, Mike! I'm anxious to see that little plane built up... and flown. Show us your stuff! And if this doesn't bring people out of the woodwork, I don't know what will ;):applause::):rolleyes:

Sorry if I seem impatient but I have a few questions: Is that depron? Any details about cutter rpm and feed rate you can share? What software tools are you using? Is that plane plan one you can share?

My observations:

Cutter rpm (5000-6000 rpm?) looks/sounds relaxed and stress-free and entirely adequate for the material you are cutting. Yay!

Seems that the material thickness to kerf ratio for thin materials will probably require small tabs (or other) to keep parts from popping out?

Straight- or T-pins might be adequate to hold the edges of the material down? I use a couple of 3/4" styrofoam insulation panels from Lowes as a waste-board underneath so have plenty of material to pin to.

Seems to be quite a bit of debris directly beneath the cut... either the material is a bit "crumbly" and/or the needle is a bit blunt yet?

Again... outstanding work, Mike! Keep it coming!

David
 

dkj4linux

Elite member
Thanks for the reply.

I actually just found your thread =) For me, it would be close to 400$ with shipping. Some research gave me this option:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-..._ab_test=201556_5,201527_4_71_72_73_74_75,0_0

I'm thinking about going that route. I have some other projects to finish before I start with this, I have promised myself to finish a project before I start a new one, otherwise I will (as usual) end up with a whole lot of semi finished projects :D

Finnen,

I don't know anything about that particular machine but it definitely looks better. And the price definitely seems good for a Prusa I3 class machine. Go for it!

And I do understand about the "not starting new projects before finishing the current one" thing... I'm the world's worst!

David
 

MikeJM

Member
David,

It's 3mm Depron. I have no idea what the rpm is. I'm running at 30 inches per min. I think I should sharpen the wire more, maybe put it on a sharpening stone.

The plane is a Flite test Duster, scaled down to an 18" WS and adjusted for 3mm Depron.

My CNC controller software is Mach 3, I use Cambam for DXF conversion to Gcode. I also have Auto Cad, Corel Cad, and PDF Architect 4 Pro for design work. I use Print2Cad 2016 for conversion from PDF to Vector (DXF) and Vector to PDF.

I just recently completed redrawing plans for a Nick Ziroli P-38 (114" wing span) and finished up all the conversions to Gcode. I have cut most of the parts and have begun assembly.



I have some modifications I need to make, but for a 1st run I think it was a success. Thanks for the inspiration!!!!!!
 

dkj4linux

Elite member
I just got this 3d printer that i am going to start printing the parts for my CNC machine on. I have printed a couple of things and once the bed is level it works great. Pretty good online community of people using it also. https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/professional-prusa-i3-wanhao?search=wanhao

Mac, that looks great! Not having to assemble it is definitely worth the little bit more than what I paid for mine. You'll hit the ground running and have a MPCNC and/or foam cutter in no time! -- David
 

dkj4linux

Elite member
David,

It's 3mm Depron. I have no idea what the rpm is. I'm running at 30 inches per min. I think I should sharpen the wire more, maybe put it on a sharpening stone.

The plane is a Flite test Duster, scaled down to an 18" WS and adjusted for 3mm Depron.

My CNC controller software is Mach 3, I use Cambam for DXF conversion to Gcode. I also have Auto Cad, Corel Cad, and PDF Architect 4 Pro for design work. I use Print2Cad 2016 for conversion from PDF to Vector (DXF) and Vector to PDF.

I just recently completed redrawing plans for a Nick Ziroli P-38 (114" wing span) and finished up all the conversions to Gcode. I have cut most of the parts and have begun assembly.



I have some modifications I need to make, but for a 1st run I think it was a success. Thanks for the inspiration!!!!!!

Mike,

Definitely a success! You're entirely welcome... and thanks for all the info on the job particulars and tools you use.

The point on the needle will certainly make a difference. After cutting to length, I hold and "twirl" the needle between my fingers while lightly touching the tip at a 30-40 degree angle against the side of the fine stone on my grinder. I try to keep the conical point fairly short and as symmetric as possible so that the needle cuts equally well in all directions... you can actually hear the difference if it starts "laboring" while cutting in a particular direction.

Again, congratulations! Getting a usable plane out of a first run is phenomenal in my book :)

David
 

RAM

Posted a thousand or more times
Thanks for the reply.

I actually just found your thread =) For me, it would be close to 400$ with shipping. Some research gave me this option:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-..._ab_test=201556_5,201527_4_71_72_73_74_75,0_0

I'm thinking about going that route. I have some other projects to finish before I start with this, I have promised myself to finish a project before I start a new one, otherwise I will (as usual) end up with a whole lot of semi finished projects :D

I don't have a 3D printer or a CNC. When I look at the cost of buying the whole kit for the mostly printed cnc ($450US) I can't justify the outlay for a separate printer. The mostly printed cnc is waaaaaay more versatile and can be easily adapted to 3D printing.

Like this example of it 3D printing: The skies the limit with this machine.
 

dkj4linux

Elite member
I don't have a 3D printer or a CNC. When I look at the cost of buying the whole kit for the mostly printed cnc ($450US) I can't justify the outlay for a separate printer. The mostly printed cnc is waaaaaay more versatile and can be easily adapted to 3D printing.

Like this example of it 3D printing: The skies the limit with this machine.

Ram,

You are entirely correct about the flexibility of the MPCNC... I've had a ball with it. I know I sound like a salesman but... again, I have no affiliation with Allted or MPCNC. I simply recognize some good engineering when I see it.

As you probably know by now, I've built 3 of them... all in a large-ish form factor suitable for cutting RC plane parts. All were a full 48" in one dimension, 32"/36"/48" for the other dimensions on the three machines, respectively. You can actually make them any size you want... only the belts, wire, and conduit lengths change. And while there are folks actually 3d-printing and/or milling wood, plastic, and aluminum with it, you'd need to keep a small-ish form factor for the sake of speed and rigidity. BUT, for foam cutting, the sky's the limit for this machine... as you've said.

The key to the MPCNC's unique-ness? It is a 3d printer at heart. It actually uses a very common board set (ArduinoMEGA/RAMPS1.4) used with 3d printers as well as the firmware (Marlin) to run it. So, the MPCNC itself, with an extruder mounted, is actually -- "natively" -- a very capable 3d printer; i.e. it's not an "add-on" capability as it would be with most CNC machines. By simply "faking out" the temperature controls and extruder drive in the Marlin config file allows the MPCNC to function as a CNC machine. To 3d print, change a couple of lines in the config file, upload the modified firmware to the Arduino, mount an extruder, and off you go, 3d printing again. So the line between CNC machine and 3d printer has been redrawn IMHO... actually ELIMINATED.

To be honest, the MPCNC is "different" from other CNC machines and not totally without its quirks. It takes some time getting used to. Using Marlin pretty much dictates using metric units (few 3d printers have sufficient print volume to warrant using "imperial" units) but that shouldn't be a problem for most of us; i.e. most RC aircraft can be readily "described" in millimeters. The gcode you generate also has to be Marlin-compatible... thankfully SketchUp/SketchUCAM and Estlcam have that post-processor already. Most other CAM programs probably have a "standard gcode" post-processor (or one close)... I have a friend who is using Aspire and VCarve and, last I heard, he had found something that seems to work for him. And Mach3, LinuxCNC, etc. don't know how to talk to the Arduino/RAMPS... so Pronterface and RepetierHost are the tools most often used. I'm still just learning about all this stuff myself... I'm sure I've missed something. You get the idea.

BUT running your CNC machine "headless" is great fun... no computer necessary! Just put your gcode file on a SD card, plug it into your LCD controller, select the plane you want to cut, and let 'er rip!

David
 
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MikeJM

Member
I did another cut yesterday and had an interesting developement! I sharpened the wire and cranked up the speed. Must have created a little heat, since it tacked the sheet of foam down to the sheet underneath. Thus helping with holding eveything in place. Here is the start of my cut and the end result today.
 

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Balu

Lurker
Staff member
Admin
Moderator
I did another cut yesterday and had an interesting developement! I sharpened the wire and cranked up the speed. Must have created a little heat, since it tacked the sheet of foam down to the sheet underneath. Thus helping with holding eveything in place. Here is the start of my cut and the end result today.

It might have pushed the paper into the foam sheet below so it got "stuck" to it?
 

dkj4linux

Elite member
I did another cut yesterday and had an interesting developement! I sharpened the wire and cranked up the speed. Must have created a little heat, since it tacked the sheet of foam down to the sheet underneath. Thus helping with holding eveything in place. Here is the start of my cut and the end result today.

Wow, MIke. Am I understanding that you cut, built, and finished that plane shown all in one day? Is that white material 3mm depron also? That is a beautifully finished airplane... wow! Do you ever work with DTFB... paper on/off... like the FT guys do? I am amazed... have you ever done a build log, beginning to end? I'm blown away... :D:D:applause::applause:

You know, I've noticed the same thing about the heating and tacking parts down to the backing material... even when cutting DTFB (paper on). I've got mixed feeling about whether it's a good thing or a bad thing. It certainly helps hold the material down and maybe even "cauterizes" the papered edges of the DTFB (similar to a laser?) to a point but it's also creating a lot of drag on the needle, pulling melted foam up into the guide, and threatening my plastic guide holder and cutter platform.

Sadly it seems worse with the copper welding tip guide... mine's hotter than a firecracker at the end of the cut. I absolutely love the idea of using the copper tips... they are inexpensive, readily available, and easy to work with... but I think there's a lot more friction with them for some reason. I may have to take a page out of your book and redesign my foam cutter to use a wooden, bolt-on guide holder in place of my re-purposed flywheel... ;)

Again, beautiful work, Mike!!!

David
 

Tritium

Amateur Extra Class K5TWM
Sadly it seems worse with the copper welding tip guide... mine's hotter than a firecracker at the end of the cut. I absolutely love the idea of using the copper tips... they are inexpensive, readily available, and easy to work with... but I think there's a lot more friction with them for some reason. I may have to take a page out of your book and redesign my foam cutter to use a wooden, bolt-on guide holder in place of my re-purposed flywheel... ;)

David

Hey David,

By now you may have realized I love to take machined parts made for different purposes and put them together in ways other than intended by the manufacturer of either item.

Just a quick note that those cheap 3D Printer hot ends on e-bay ($15 or so) have a heatsink that by coincidence shares a common thread with the Harbour Freight "MIG" Tips.

Thurmond
 
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dkj4linux

Elite member
Hey David,

By now you may have realized I love to take machined parts made for different purposes and put them together in ways other than intended by the manufacturer of either item.

Just a quick note that those cheap 3D Printer hot ends on e-bay ($15 or so) have a heatsink that by coincidence shares a common thread with the Harbour Freight "MIG" Tips.

Thurmond

Thurmond,

I think we've demonstrated we're pretty much on the same page with re-using and re-purposing parts but I did break down and just order a set of M6 x 1 taps... I love to work out of my junk box ;)

Thanks for the tip (pun intended)!

David
 

MikeJM

Member
Thanks, Mike! Truly impressive work. Obviously, I'm delighted to see the little FT-Duster but I'd sure love to see that Ultimate Full Fuse done using the needle cutter... ;)

David

Sure would be easier than doing it all by hand like I did last time!