Cutting foam sheets... with a needle!

[wire10ga]

wire10ga: Congratulations! Please do provide pictures/videos... they are a real encouragement to all!

RAM: Hear, hear! -- David

Ram / dkj4linux ..
I will do a write of up of my build, hopefully this weekend. Figure my 1st application with the new machine will be to see if I can have it draw the pattern out on the DTFB. I made it large enough to have a 2'x3' cutting area. For my 1st time to actually build something like this, it wasn't that bad or hard to do.

 

[jhitesma]

I like your plan to go ahead and build with PLA. I live in East Texas, am currently building my 4th MPCNC, and in our balmy low-100's summer-time heat my machines have shown no ill-effects in a non-a/c environment, but out of direct sunlight. I did however have a heat-related problem with one of my 3d printers caused by an over-driven motor. I understand your reservations about the heat where you live but I also believe there's great value to building the MPCNC as designed and then observing for yourself where things may, or may not, prove lacking. The MPCNC design, with its plastic parts and small motors has, time and time again, proven incredibly strong and capable and has been a pleasant surprise in almost every way... it's quite a nice piece of engineering.

Well yesterday we hit 90 and today is supposed to be upper 80's. Summer 114f in the shade isn't uncommon. Another FT fan sent me a RaspberryPi with a 3D printed PLA case last March, I had it outside and somewhat protected (no direct sun), first warm day we had:




That was in June

I was able to "unwarp" it just by putting the pieces outside (in the shade) under a brick for a few hours - the ambient heat was enough to soften them and let them flatten back out.

I plan on printing some test pieces and putting them in various places to see how well they survive the summer. Will put one in each of my sheds and in my office without AC as well as just outside but out of the sun. Until I see how those go the MPCNC parts will stay in the main house

I like to call our property "the compound" we're in town but have just under 1/4 acre in a long narrow lot, our house is only 1,000sqft but we also have a wooden shed, a metal shed, 2 large carports, a large metal RV shade, the 10'x10' two story free standing office, and a full outside kitchen (another shade structure, stove, oven, fridge, microwave, sink with it's own hot water and disposal...) So I have lots of storage space...but not a lot of room to actually work on things other than outside under one of the shades. And most of our storage is "outside" and due to poor ventilation gets well above ambient temps in the summer.

I like your "fall-back" plan even better. I too have been looking at lots of "lost-foam/PLA" metal-casting videos and been thinking how much nicer an all-metal MPCNC would be... how PLA's lack of heat-resistance might actually be a virtue. I've finally gotten a simple foundry build underway and hope soon to start looking more seriously at making foam patterns and playing with simple "lost-foam" casting. A logical next step would then be extending it to "lost-PLA"...

I cast my foundry last summer, but have been really lazy about making or finding a crucible. Keep meaning to talk to a friend who probably has one I can use but haven't seen him in a few months. That's really a long term plan though!

Anyway, keep us posted as to how your build progresses. I like the way you think. -- David

First pieces came off the printer last night. Plated up and printed the smallest parts first:

Z Adjust knob
Rigid Coupler
Z Nut Lock
Z Motor Mount

They all came out nice but about 80% through the print I realized I was only printing with 15% infill - way under the 60-70% recommended for these parts. The Adjust Knob will be fine I'm sure. And the Nut Lock is probably fine. But the Coupler and motor mount I may reprint...then again I may just go for it and if they break then print new ones.

Guess I better start setting aside money for hardware/electronics

 

[Hattrick]

Any thoughts on if a jig saw could be used in this application? I'm thinking the needle could possibly be made from a ground down saw blade. Since the needle will be much shorter maybe no guide would be needed? This should eliminate heat buildup. Especially if you are trying to do production type work. I'll have to go to the box store and get a closer look at jigsaws. I have a 4'x4' router and have been using a pen attachment to draw plans onto DTFB. Saves a lot of time but cutting them out would be even better!

Jig saws usually have a 3/4 inch stroke and variable ones go from 0 to 3000 strokes per minute.

 

[jhitesma]

Would be hard to get very accurate cuts with the size of a jigsaw blade. At least without some really fancy gcode to accommodate for it like a human user does. Nice thing about dkj4linux's device is the cutting tool has basically no dimensions so it can cut in any direction with the same kerf.

 

[Hattrick]

I'm thinking to grind down the end of the blade into a needle or replacing the blade with a needle of some type.

 

[dkj4linux]

Any thoughts on if a jig saw could be used in this application? I'm thinking the needle could possibly be made from a ground down saw blade. Since the needle will be much shorter maybe no guide would be needed? This should eliminate heat buildup. Especially if you are trying to do production type work. I'll have to go to the box store and get a closer look at jigsaws. I have a 4'x4' router and have been using a pen attachment to draw plans onto DTFB. Saves a lot of time but cutting them out would be even better!

Jig saws usually have a 3/4 inch stroke and variable ones go from 0 to 3000 strokes per minute.

Hattrick, I'm sure you could probably rig something with a jig saw... people have even used sewing machines to cut foam. Is there a particular reason for looking at these options? Is it the 3d printed parts? Doesn't have to use 3d printed parts. The needle guide? A sports ball inflation needle will do nicely. The needle? A short length of 0.025" mig- or music-wire is easily fashioned into a suitable needle that leaves a very narrow kerf. Expense? Less than $10 for parts/materials even if bought new. No workshop/tools? Do you have family/friends who do?

The needle cutter does essentially what the jig saw and sewing machines do... only cheaper, simpler, more compact, and with speeds better suited to cutting foam with a CNC machine. My first needle cutters (post #17 in this thread) weren't 3d printed nor particularly high-speed but, at 4000 rpm (stokes/minute) and 24 inches/minute feedrate, they very nicely cut airframes for our modest fleet of planes. They weren't difficult to build. The brushless motor version is far more capable and uses components familiar to most all RC'ers -- a motor, esc, and servo tester -- and many folks already have suitable components on hand. It's equally straight-forward to build using various methods/materials... check out Mike's needle cutter and fabulous planes (post #30 and later) and Shur's precision cutter (post #67), a collaborative effort with a machinist friend.

All that said, there has been suggestion of a hand-held needle cutter (not unlike a saber- or jig-saw) that might be used freehand or with a guide or straight-edge. Though you might modify a jigsaw to do that job it'd still probably be more expensive in the long run and considerable effort could be required to come up with a suitable needle and guide.

Please let us know what you are looking to do with your needle cutter. The foam cutter presented in this thread has been purpose-built/developed for cutting foam sheet with a CNC machine and I doubt there's a tool or machine in the workshop or household that hasn't already been considered at length by alot of folks for it's potential to this task. -- David

 

[quimney]

I can't take it anymore, I want a needle cutter!



I have decided to modify my plotter to get there. First step is to take off all the covers and remove the existing gantry/pen holder mechanism because it does not have enough clearance to pass a cutting board and two sheets of foam board (the bottom DTFB is sacrificial). I am making a new gantry out of aluminum extrusion and a piece that will slide along it for the z-axis.



The stepper, lead screw and slides for Z are coming out of a CDROM drive. I will have an inch of travel in Z and that should be plenty. I have machined about half of the parts so far. It goes slowly because life keeps getting in the way My plan is to attach a pen to it first and validate everything is still working. Then I am going to build a pin cutter for it.

Shurakair is working on reprogramming an esc to take pwm input instead of servo so mach3 can drive the motor directly. That way we will have g-code control of the pin cutter.

What else is there to do anyway... it's too cold and wet outside to fly

 

[jhitesma]

Love it quimney look forward to seeing the rest of your build!

So far I'm not feeling the love on my prints for this:



They aren't horrible...I'm getting a slightly rougher surface finish with this PLA than I did with my last roll of PLA but it's not a huge deal (it looks like over extrusion but if I dial back the e steps or the multiplier any more I get gaps in my top layers) But.....

As I already pointed out the first couple of pieces I printed with the wrong infill.

And the 4 corner locks I printed today? Just measured them....I can't confirm because I sliced it on my computer at work...but I think...I might have accidentally printed the European version because they measure 23.5mm on the conduit opening

Now I'm really upset about the print taking 8 hours instead of the 4 slic3r said it would!

Oh well, should have lots of time to print the next 3 days at least!

 

[dkj4linux]

Love it quimney look forward to seeing the rest of your build!

So far I'm not feeling the love on my prints for this:

View attachment 64429

They aren't horrible...I'm getting a slightly rougher surface finish with this PLA than I did with my last roll of PLA but it's not a huge deal (it looks like over extrusion but if I dial back the e steps or the multiplier any more I get gaps in my top layers) But.....

As I already pointed out the first couple of pieces I printed with the wrong infill.

And the 4 corner locks I printed today? Just measured them....I can't confirm because I sliced it on my computer at work...but I think...I might have accidentally printed the European version because they measure 23.5mm on the conduit opening

Now I'm really upset about the print taking 8 hours instead of the 4 slic3r said it would!

Oh well, should have lots of time to print the next 3 days at least!

They look fine if they are dimensionally correct. Check that Z motor mount... if the conduit is a good/tight fit and a 608 bearing can be pressed into the recess without too much effort or clean-up then all is good. 23.5 mm is correct for the US version... 25 mm is the most common OD for most of the rest of the world. Slic3r generally estimates a slightly shorter time than it actually takes but I print most parts one at at time and keep two 3d printers going full bore when I'm in the throes of an actual build so don't notice too much. I use 0.3 mm layer height, 3 perimeters, 3 top/bottom solid layers, and 50-70% infill for most parts. -- David

 

[dkj4linux]

I can't take it anymore, I want a needle cutter!

View attachment 64426

I have decided to modify my plotter to get there. First step is to take off all the covers and remove the existing gantry/pen holder mechanism because it does not have enough clearance to pass a cutting board and two sheets of foam board (the bottom DTFB is sacrificial). I am making a new gantry out of aluminum extrusion and a piece that will slide along it for the z-axis.

View attachment 64427

The stepper, lead screw and slides for Z are coming out of a CDROM drive. I will have an inch of travel in Z and that should be plenty. I have machined about half of the parts so far. It goes slowly because life keeps getting in the way My plan is to attach a pen to it first and validate everything is still working. Then I am going to build a pin cutter for it.

Shurakair is working on reprogramming an esc to take pwm input instead of servo so mach3 can drive the motor directly. That way we will have g-code control of the pin cutter.

What else is there to do anyway... it's too cold and wet outside to fly

Outstanding, quimney! That'll be a really interesting build. Good to see you and Shur collaborating on it. -- David

 

[jhitesma]

They look fine if they are dimensionally correct. Check that Z motor mount... if the conduit is a good/tight fit and a 608 bearing can be pressed into the recess without too much effort or clean-up then all is good. 23.5 mm is correct for the US version... 25 mm is the most common OD for most of the rest of the world. Slic3r generally estimates a slightly shorter time than it actually takes but I print most parts one at at time and keep two 3d printers going full bore when I'm in the throes of an actual build so don't notice too much. I use 0.3 mm layer height, 3 perimeters, 3 top/bottom solid layers, and 50-70% infill for most parts. -- David

Ah, I had the versions mixed up - just not when printing as I feared. For some reason last night I thought the 25mm version was the US and the 23.5 was the international

Dimensionally I'm doing great. I've been working hard on fine tuning this printed like crazy. My 20mm test cubes come out more accurate than my harbor freight calipers can measure. (measurements vary by 0.01 - 0.02mm on repeated measurements of the same spot.) So not worried there...just thought I had printed the wrong version.

I'll probably pick up some conduit tonight to test fit things with.

slic3r is usually a bit off for me...but not this bad. Usually on a 3-4 hour print it's about 30-60 minutes shy on it's estimate. But 8 hours for a predicted <4 hour print...I've never had it be that far off before.

 

[dkj4linux]

Ah, I had the versions mixed up - just not when printing as I feared. For some reason last night I thought the 25mm version was the US and the 23.5 was the international

Dimensionally I'm doing great. I've been working hard on fine tuning this printed like crazy. My 20mm test cubes come out more accurate than my harbor freight calipers can measure. (measurements vary by 0.01 - 0.02mm on repeated measurements of the same spot.) So not worried there...just thought I had printed the wrong version.

I'll probably pick up some conduit tonight to test fit things with.

slic3r is usually a bit off for me...but not this bad. Usually on a 3-4 hour print it's about 30-60 minutes shy on it's estimate. But 8 hours for a predicted <4 hour print...I've never had it be that far off before.

You said you are plating up the parts... I wonder if slic3r is reporting an estimated time based on only one part? 3-4 hours is about right for just *one* of the major parts (corner block, roller-f, rigid middle, etc.) but if another part were plated with it it could easily take nearly double the time...

 

[jhitesma]

You said you are plating up the parts... I wonder if slic3r is reporting an estimated time based on only one part? 3-4 hours is about right for just *one* of the major parts (corner block, roller-f, rigid middle, etc.) but if another part were plated with it it could easily take nearly double the time...

It was the corner block locks, some of the smaller parts. I just plated up four of them at once instead of doing them individually. Really can't figure it out, it's the worst estimate I've had yet

And looking at the video of the four head MPCNC printing parts he's printing WAY slower than I am (I believe you and I are both using the FT 2020 i3) so it makes even less sense to me that my print took almost 8 hours for the four corner locks.

Oh well. They take as long as they take is all

About to print one corner block so I can pickup some conduit tonight and test fit the first pieces.

 

[jhitesma]

Well, I'm 40 hours closer to having a machine!


Did a quick test fit with some screws and conduit to make sure they're the right size


I have to admit part of me really wants to source my own parts so I can buy them as I have a bit of money available. But the $240 set sure looks nice so I'm tempted to save for it instead.

But I have more than enough 6/32 3/4" screws now Oh well, always good to have more screws in the spares bin

Also. I went with dkj4linux's dimensions "36" x 48" footprint, 25" x 37" active working area." which seems like a good size for working on foam board. Just two problems with it:

1) I only bought 2 10' sticks of conduit which is 240" total. And a 36"x48" machine uses 297" of conduit. So I need another stick. Hardly the end of the world though, a stick costs about $3.40 here which is nice because wood here is considerably more expensive than what I was used to in Ohio...good to see metal is still about the same

2) I had planned on being able to put this on my dining room table. But...that's not going to happen At a minimum I'd have to create a larger false top for the table to fit this. Looks like I'll have to build a wooden table to go with it as well - and make that collapsible so I can store it when not using the machine.

Oh...and those zits on the prints...I've seen those before but only very occasionally. They're very consistent though and happen in the same spot on every print. I believe it's because of my retraction being off. The high infill on these is causing a lot of retraction moves and those zits seem to show up right where a retraction move happens. Problem is these are kind of long prints to use as tests..and I don't have any smaller models that do that consistently.

So After the last block finished printing instead of moving on to the rest of the pieces I sat down with openSCAD and made a solid 20x20 block to test print. I only printed the first 6-7mm or so but sure enough I was getting the zits on it and I don't get them on 20x20 hollow cubes. Adding an extra 0.5mm of retraction and changing slic3r to do external perimeters first seems to have cleared it up on the tests. I also disabled "retract on layer change" and "Wipe while retracting" which I had turned on trying to deal with little balls on the outside of my prints with PETG. It helped with that but seems to be making this worse.

Not convinced my test piece really made the problems show up though. So started designing a test piece with some holes through it and shorter (so it prints quicker). Seems like it makes the problem more apparent...but think I can do a bit better. So added some curves to the outside. And I'm too tired to do any more test prints tonight

Hopefully tomorrow I can confirm I've got this issue licked and then continue with my MPCNC parts. Oh yeah...need to order another roll of PLA too this one is already getting kind of light. Wonder what color will go well with purple....I should just get black because I could use black for some other things too...but I'd kind of like this to be a bit more colorful than that

 

[dkj4linux]

Well, I'm 40 hours closer to having a machine!
View attachment 64550

Did a quick test fit with some screws and conduit to make sure they're the right size
View attachment 64549

I have to admit part of me really wants to source my own parts so I can buy them as I have a bit of money available. But the $240 set sure looks nice so I'm tempted to save for it instead.

But I have more than enough 6/32 3/4" screws now Oh well, always good to have more screws in the spares bin

Also. I went with dkj4linux's dimensions "36" x 48" footprint, 25" x 37" active working area." which seems like a good size for working on foam board. Just two problems with it:

1) I only bought 2 10' sticks of conduit which is 240" total. And a 36"x48" machine uses 297" of conduit. So I need another stick. Hardly the end of the world though, a stick costs about $3.40 here which is nice because wood here is considerably more expensive than what I was used to in Ohio...good to see metal is still about the same

2) I had planned on being able to put this on my dining room table. But...that's not going to happen At a minimum I'd have to create a larger false top for the table to fit this. Looks like I'll have to build a wooden table to go with it as well - and make that collapsible so I can store it when not using the machine.

Oh...and those zits on the prints...I've seen those before but only very occasionally. They're very consistent though and happen in the same spot on every print. I believe it's because of my retraction being off. The high infill on these is causing a lot of retraction moves and those zits seem to show up right where a retraction move happens. Problem is these are kind of long prints to use as tests..and I don't have any smaller models that do that consistently.

So After the last block finished printing instead of moving on to the rest of the pieces I sat down with openSCAD and made a solid 20x20 block to test print. I only printed the first 6-7mm or so but sure enough I was getting the zits on it and I don't get them on 20x20 hollow cubes. Adding an extra 0.5mm of retraction and changing slic3r to do external perimeters first seems to have cleared it up on the tests. I also disabled "retract on layer change" and "Wipe while retracting" which I had turned on trying to deal with little balls on the outside of my prints with PETG. It helped with that but seems to be making this worse.

Not convinced my test piece really made the problems show up though. So started designing a test piece with some holes through it and shorter (so it prints quicker). Seems like it makes the problem more apparent...but think I can do a bit better. So added some curves to the outside. And I'm too tired to do any more test prints tonight

Hopefully tomorrow I can confirm I've got this issue licked and then continue with my MPCNC parts. Oh yeah...need to order another roll of PLA too this one is already getting kind of light. Wonder what color will go well with purple....I should just get black because I could use black for some other things too...but I'd kind of like this to be a bit more colorful than that

Those look fantastic to me! As soon as I get the nice tight fit when a piece of conduit can be slipped in to a piece straight off the printer -- and without the use of a hammer -- I'm stoked and ready to call it good! I've come to accept that the less-than-perfect 3d printed surface quality/texture is normal and even attractive... much as cast iron has its appeal with a less than perfect surface quality. Besides, I'm already trying to picture these as cast aluminum parts from 3d printed patterns

I built my first MPCNC with parts I sourced myself. All went well and I wound up with a very nice machine. But when I finally counted the cost to build it, I had actually spent slightly more than what Ryan Zellars is asking for his hardware parts bundle... so MPCNC's #2 and #3 were built with purchased bundles. Also, if a 36" x 48" footprint is what you're going for, be sure to order extra belt and wire. I'm still blown away by the fact that conduit is as cheap as it is... three 10' sticks for less than $10! And I find it's just about as easy to walk out with 3 sticks as it is 2...

I've been pretty happy with a couple of rolls of yellow Hatchbox PLA I've had. And since the local high school's colors are purple and gold/yellow that's a common color combo in these parts. A Navy vet, I'm partial to blue and gold though...

-- David

 

[jhitesma]

Those look fantastic to me! As soon as I get the nice tight fit when a piece of conduit can be slipped in to a piece straight off the printer -- and without the use of a hammer -- I'm stoked and ready to call it good! I've come to accept that the less-than-perfect 3d printed surface quality/texture is normal and even attractive... much as cast iron has its appeal with a less than perfect surface quality. Besides, I'm already trying to picture these as cast aluminum parts from 3d printed patterns

In an imperfect perfectionist - I can't help pushing for perfect but am more than willing to settle Didn't even have to chase the screw holes so I'm not complaining...but those zits...they bug me. Still haven't got my test piece able to replicate them as well as I'd like - but new settings seem to have eliminated them. Printed the first roller lock piece this morning with my tweaked settings and it's zit free, few tiny little pinholes now instead, guess I went too far But the roller lock printed just one piece by itself took just over half the time estimated on the vicious1 site. And I'm still on the same speeds as I was printing the corner blocks that took twice as long as the time he gives. Go figure.

I built my first MPCNC with parts I sourced myself. All went well and I wound up with a very nice machine. But when I finally counted the cost to build it, I had actually spent slightly more than what Ryan Zellars is asking for his hardware parts bundle... so MPCNC's #2 and #3 were built with purchased bundles. Also, if a 36" x 48" footprint is what you're going for, be sure to order extra belt and wire. I'm still blown away by the fact that conduit is as cheap as it is... three 10' sticks for less than $10! And I find it's just about as easy to walk out with 3 sticks as it is 2...

The individual parts are cheap...but add in shipping...and the time to source them...and $240 really is a deal. But I already have an arduino mega, and I already have all these 6/32" screws and am pretty sure I have a box of 5/16" 1.25" bolts in my shed....and have a friend who works a local hardware store that can get me hardware at just over their cost...and I just kind of like the challenge of doing it all myself. Got a few days to decide still while I keep the printer busy

I've been pretty happy with a couple of rolls of yellow Hatchbox PLA I've had. And since the local high school's colors are purple and gold/yellow that's a common color combo in these parts. A Navy vet, I'm partial to blue and gold though...
-- David

This purple is hatchbox and I'm really happy with it. I've tried their PLA and ABS and both were way better than what I got from Folger when I ordered my printer. Blue and gold is a great combo...but having grown up in Ohio Michigan has kind of spoiled that combo for me Green is tempting, but I already have green ABS and would rather get another color than something I already have. Yellow is temping but not sure it would go well with the purple. Maybe I'll just stay simple and go with black or grey for now.

Starting to give some thought towards which pieces are going to be which color. Was tempted to print the corner blocks and locks in contrasting colors but really wanted to get them printed ASAP so I could test fit things so monochrome it is

 

[dkj4linux]

Once I observed my prints were considerably faster than what Ryan has in his chart I stopped paying attention to that... he admitted to printing slowly. For comparison purposes, these are the actual print times I'm getting for individual parts, printed one at a time and at recommended infill, rounded up to the nearest 1/4 hour:

foot, bottom 1-1/2 hrs
foot, flex 1-1/2 hrs
corner block (v1) 2-3/4 hrs
roller-f 3-3/4 hrs
lock, roller 1 hr
lock, corner 1/2 hr
middle joiner 2-3/4 hr
middle end 2-1/4 hr
middle rigid 3-1/4 hr
motor mnt, roller 1-1/2 hr

Apparently I didn't record times for the z motor mount, nut traps, etc. but they'll be in line with those of similar size and complexity. All told, I estimate about 70 hours of actual printer time for a MPCNC and I usually keep 2 printers (a Prusa I2 and a Prusa I3) busy when going all out on a build.

Working with vendors, generating parts lists, finding sources and lead times... all while trying to design a system and meet an impossible schedule (government/military contracts) was a pretty frustrating part of my early engineering years. It forced us to a level of detail too early on and was mainly a source of great distraction and angst for us design engineers. So having worked out of my stash and sourcing my own parts for the first MPCNC... and then seeing Ryan's bundles for the same or less... I'm more than happy to purchase the hardware bundle from him. It relieves me of a job I'd rather not have to do anyway...

My first MPCNC color combos have been a mish-mash of what filament I had on hand and was loaded on my machines. I order filament now with the MPCNC in mind and so get 2 spools of each color I think I might need... each MPCNC takes about 1-1/2 spools (1 kg) of filament.

I'm glad the "zits" are gone...

-- David

 

[Jaxx]

dkj4linux,

I'm ready to start ordering the parts for a MPCNC. I'm going to build with your dimensions ("36" x 48"). I plan to order the parts bundle and printed parts from vicious1.com, but need some advice. Do I go with 23.5mm or 25mm? Is there a benefit to one over the other? Any recommendations you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

 

[dkj4linux]

dkj4linux,

I'm ready to start ordering the parts for a MPCNC. I'm going to build with your dimensions ("36" x 48"). I plan to order the parts bundle and printed parts from vicious1.com, but need some advice. Do I go with 23.5mm or 25mm. Is there a benefit to one over the other? Any recommendations you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Jaxx.

It depends on where you are located and what conduit is most commonly available in your area?

If you are in the US and will get your conduit at Lowes, Home Depot, etc... you will be using the 23.5 mm OD stuff.

Most locations outside the US, however, seem to have 25 mm OD most commonly available... then, the IE version is what you'll want to build.

David

 

[jhitesma]

Once I observed my prints were considerably faster than what Ryan has in his chart I stopped paying attention to that... he admitted to printing slowly. For comparison purposes, these are the actual print times I'm getting for individual parts, printed one at a time and at recommended infill, rounded up to the nearest 1/4 hour:

foot, bottom 1-1/2 hrs
foot, flex 1-1/2 hrs
corner block (v1) 2-3/4 hrs
roller-f 3-3/4 hrs
lock, roller 1 hr
lock, corner 1/2 hr
middle joiner 2-3/4 hr
middle end 2-1/4 hr
middle rigid 3-1/4 hr
motor mnt, roller 1-1/2 hr

That's pretty close to what I'm seeing...maybe a little faster. I think my middle end last night took about 2:50. Not sure why printing the 4 corner locks at once took me 8 hours. Corner blocks took me close to 4 hours each though. But I'm not in a huge hurry. Still need to either gather parts or order the bundle....

Ended up going with nice simple black for the second color, should be here Wednesday...but I may run out of purple before then at this rate