FliteTest Electrohub Tricopter build from a novice/noob's point of view.

makattack

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Thanks for the clarification Joshua! Yes, that all makes more sense now. Also, I had meant to say drift in the angle mode. Still trying to get it all sorted out in my head. As you can see, my brain doesn't process things quickly nor completely. That totally makes sense about the accelerometers being calibrated with reference to the force of gravity. I had somehow imagined it was a software calibration of some sort that combined the gyros and accelerometer values to determine the level state. Of course, it would make sense for them to be able to detect the constant acceleration force of gravity. Thanks for being patient with a guy who's more comfortable with software and code vs the hardware and physics around these devices. To me, they are more black boxes that send either analog or digital values to input buses, and someone else tells me what those values mean.

Dave
 

makattack

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Thanks! That was great. In fact, I liked it so much, I bought the Kindle version of his book using the flitetest amazon sponsor link:

http://www.amazon.com/?_encoding=UT...=ur2&tag=flitetest-20&linkId=5ZCPSQPQFPEM227Z

The RC hobby has definitely turned a software guy into an amateur hardware guy.

edited to add:
Ok... I was checking out the forum during lunch... now that you've exposed me to engineerguy's youtube channel and his book... I'm hooked. How am I not going to spend all my free time watching all those videos?! Ok... back to work...
 
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makattack

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C0d3M0nk3y, that guy reminds me of Bruce from rcmodelreview - the Oz version. Subscribed... holy heck, why do I even have a cable TV subscription when there's all this content on youtube?
 

makattack

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Thanks. It's funny how sure enough, my colleague, who was filming it for me, asked the question "how far does it go? "

Flyingmonkey/Fred would have gotten a kick out of that.

What's cool is that those guys now are a little more understanding of the nuances to these "drones".

They asked questions about how it works, I explained as best I could. They saw how I had a sticker on it with my name, telephone, and ama number printed prominently. I explained how they promote safety and responsibility. I think they just realized those stories on the news are exceptional cases that give the hobby a bad rap.
 
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cranialrectosis

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Thanks. It's funny how sure enough, my colleague, who was filming it for me, asked the question "how far does it go? "

Flyingmonkey/Fred would have gotten a kick out of that.

What's cool is that those guys now are a little more understanding of the nuances to these "drones".

They asked questions about how it works, I explained as best I could. They saw how I had a sticker on it with my name, telephone, and ama number printed prominently. I explained how they promote safety and responsibility. I think they just realized those stories on the news are exceptional cases that give the hobby a bad rap.

I think it was a classic example of how to interface and be an ambassador. Show them the Bat Bone store page. Who knows, in 6 months you all might form your own club and be racing minis. :)
 

joshuabardwell

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Everybody asks me, "how high can it go"? I kind of want to say, "Well, the climb rate is something like 6 meters per second, and the battery lasts about nine minutes." I sort of get the fascination with altitude, but it's really not that hard to make a craft go up. Going up is sort of the most basic thing an aircraft can do, and once you can fly at six feet, you can kind of fly at 1000 feet, you know?

The other thing they ask is, "How far can it go," to which I say, "About 1500 meters, but I couldn't even see it at that distance."
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
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C0d3M0nk3y, that guy reminds me of Bruce from rcmodelreview - the Oz version. Subscribed... holy heck, why do I even have a cable TV subscription when there's all this content on youtube?

I cut my cable 6 years ago...but it wasn't until I discovered FT a bit over 2 years ago that I started subscribing to Youtube channels. Sadly my book consumption has dropped as a result ;)

With several of my favorite channels already mentioned I'll toss out this one as well:
https://www.youtube.com/user/Afrotechmods

His last few videos have been very relevant to this hobby - Batteries and C ratings, and buck converters (like the pololu converters often used with KISS ESC's).
 

makattack

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Thank you for that channel as well jhitesma! From a non engineers point of view, I loved the explanation of the low pass filter on that channel. I love the simplicity of it all. I was working on a project using arduino, an electret mic, and an addressable LED strip. Was getting noise on the input lines from the mic, so I decided to implement a software filter, but tuning it was a bit of a pain and it just too much more time than was worth when a engineer showed me how I could just add a low pass filter with a resister and a cap. I didn't quite understand how it worked, but this video was great for helping me to understand how that worked!

It's funny, until this hobby, I had a nagging question from back when I took a "simple digital circuits" class in 1992 -- what the heck is a pull down resistor for? The TA told me I needed it, on a lab assignment, and indeed, it worked. Just didn't understand the why and how until I got into this hobby last year.

Another great resource for me has been: http://www.soldersmoke.com/

Also bought his books, but yeah, haven't been finding enough time to read...

Back on the subject of this tricopter/multiwii/flip thread, I was troubled by why the dynamic prop balancing feature doesn't seem to work, and it looks like it's a known issue that's dependent on the board and version one might be using:
http://www.multiwii.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=4699&p=53401&hilit=DYNBALANCE#p53401
 

makattack

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Tuning adventures.

Thought I'd update a bit. I've been flying around mostly with the default PID's, and JoshuaBardwell had posted in another thread that his Proportional gains were upped from the default 3.5 to 5.7: http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?14248-Cleanflight-vs-Baseflight&p=152710#post152710

I believe his was on a Quad, so I figured it'd be very different on my tricopter. Having flown a bunch with the default PIDs (with the yaw slightly lowered from a high default P setting of between 8-9 to 6) I decided I wanted to play around with tuning next as I feel I can recover having flown in wind, and mixed orientations.

I started out with the process detailed here:
http://www.multiwii.com/wiki/index.php?title=PID

With having the props on, carefully, holding the tricopter in my hands and throttling up until it's light which worked out to just under 50% throttle. Since I was starting with the default PID's, I just started on the pitch axis and increasing the P gain for pitch until it got really hard to pitch forward. I then pitched it back and forth to see if it would oscillate and upped it even more until I got oscillations. It was a little hard for me to tell if it was oscillating until I noted the changing pitch of the motors spinning and also saw on the MultiWiiConf GUI that the PWM values being sent to the motors were hopping. I then lowered the P until it stopped doing that. Normally, you have to lower them just a bit, but because I wasn't identifying the oscillations, I kept going up to high initially, so I had to lower them quite a bit.

I repeated the process for the roll and yaw axis, and eventually ended up with these settings (I and D values were from default):

Screenshot 2014-12-12 22.23.13.png

Next, I charged up two 2200mAh 3S packs and brought them out. Figured with the cold I wouldn't need more flight time. I was right. I also didn't want to lug my computer out, so I searched for a phone app. that would do this, thinking some enterprising individual would have tackled this. Sure enough, I searched, discovered that most people use a BlueTooth transceiver connected to the Flip/MultiWii and use a mobile app such as: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ezio.multiwii

Unfortunately, I didn't have this bluetooth adapter, but I did have a OTG USB cable for my phone which I use to connect to the 3DR telemetry radio for my APM use. I tried it out, and it worked! I took this out, despite the wind, and tried tuning it. Well, that was somewhat interesting. I'm not familiar with the multirotor tuning process at all. I read up on it, and even watched a youtube video (RCExplorer/David Windestal) but putting it to practice was another thing. On lift off, I immediately got some oscillations, but I couldn't determine which axis was causing this. I tried some forward flight, despite the oscillations, and it seemed to damp them out, but there was still some pulsing in the motors. It could have been the wind that was blowing around 5mph, was my thought. I flew it backwards, and it seemed ok. I also tried the roll axis test by rolling it left and right, and back to center. This time, the motors sounded smoother. Based on this, I assumed it was the pitch axis that had too high of a PID. I flew it back, landed, connected my phone via USB, and lowered it by .1

I kept this up until I got to 5.4 for the pitch P. The roll at 6 seemed ok. I was still getting some pulsing, and when hovering close by, in front of me, noticed that the tilt mounted rear motor was kind of going back and forth with the pulsing, even though when I yaw it, it doesn't oscillate. Well, I land and start lowering that P gain as well. I ended up with a yaw P setting of 3.0 and an I of .015.

By this point, I had used up both batteries, and was freezing, so I returned home to think about it.

Since I had built the tricopter with the FliteTest 13-370 Tilt mount, which will hopefully be replaced by a tuff tilt mount when they start stocking it in the store, it had always had a bit of slop on the tilt due to the design of that mechanism. I started wondering if that might have been responsible for the oscillating tail motor, so I inspected the mount and found the slop was due to the piece that acts as the arm the servo push rods use to tilt the motor mount.

Well, I added some hotglue to it to see what effect this will have on my next foray out -- it did remove the slop, and now the only slop comes from the flex on the push rods:
2014-12-13 12.50.08.jpg

I just got back from flying it with this modification. It's still windy out there, but I think that's what's causing the motor pulsing. It's not really oscillating when flying forwards or side to side. I somehow confused motor pulsing with oscillation.

Before going out, I searched more, and ran across this thread: http://forum.flitetest.com/showthre...rameters-for-Electrohub-spider-quad-w-MW-Flip

There was some great information there. While I'm not quite ready to make custom motor mixing values, I saw what Dan recommended about reducing the D values to 0 while tuning. The defaults from RTFQuads were quite high, so I went ahead and reset them to 0 while setting I to a lower value.

I'm now flying with:

Roll PID: 5.5, .0010, 0
Pitch PID: 5.0, 0.010, 0
Yaw PID: 3.0, 0.010, 0

Frankly, it seems pretty similar to what I had before, but maybe with bit more floaty in that it drifts a bit more, but it's still windy out.
 
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joshuabardwell

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Your process sounds a lot like mine. I also ended up at around 6, but then found that the P gains that worked "on the bench" had oscillations in real world conditions (wind, etc...) and I had to back down to closer to 5.5 or so. I think you will find that your I gains can come up significantly, at which point you will probably also be able to bring your P gains up a smidge. Drifting may be due to low I gain causing it to not hold a position once it achieves it.
 

jhitesma

Some guy in the desert
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I love the ezio app, beats the official MW app by a long margin and he keeps making it better and better. I forgot just how bad the stock desktop app is until today when I started trying to tune the nanowii on my Twitchity 250 and couldn't get it's funky modified version of MW2.1 to work with the app (for reasons I've yet to determine due to lack of time.)

I still suck at tuning though. More often than not I make things worse and worse then suddenly hit something right out of luck and get it better :) Every time I think I finally understand what I'm doing I make a change and something totally unexpected happens causing me to question everything I think I "know" at that point. Thankfully once a multi is tuned in you don't have to mess with it anymore. Unfortunately I can never seem to leave well enough alone and keep changing motors/ESC's/geometry and having to retune :(

I've also found myself flying with really high P's and thinking it feels great...then out of curiosity trying really low P's and also thinking it feels great...only to have it feel horrible when I go back to the original tune. So I think part of it is I just adapt to what I've got which makes it hard to tune :D
 

makattack

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Another great thing about the MultiWiiGui app is that the RC inputs displays past the 1000/2000 PWM levels. I'm going to have to donate to get all the full features, even though I really don't need them.

In another thread, Joshuabardwell posted about the taranis not requiring greater channel limits.

This made for a "d'oh!" moment for me as I had been meaning to find out why throttle doesn't activate the motors until I'm about just under 1/4 throttle up.

Of course... with the default -100 bottom end-point, I was getting about 960 for a PWM reading on the Flip1.5.

I've since set all my limits on the Taranis X9D+ with the L9R receiver I swapped out to:

Protocol: LR12
Thr: -98.0, 98.0
Roll: -98.2, 97.8
Pitch: -98.5, 97.8
Yaw: -97.3, 99.0

I was basically going past the end points by a significant amount with my prior 130% end points. Sheesh. I suspect this tricopter will feel a little different now. Maybe more responsive? I was taking things apart to move the flip1.5 to a FPV250 quad I'm building (feeling adventurous) and planning to replace that with a Flip32+ -- but I'll put that on hold until I learn a bit more, as I obviously haven't even setup the tricopter well enough yet.
 
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makattack

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Just a quick update on the latest iteration of my first ever multirotor build. This ElectroHub TriCopter now has a Tough Tilt!

toughtilt_sm.jpg

The installation was pretty much as detailed in the FliteTest build video / article with the exception being, as shown above, my tilt assembly/motor is mounted a little off the end of the boom. This is due to the fact that when I first built this, I used the 13-370 delrin tilt, and cut the motor/esc wires to lengths appropriate for that. With the new Tough Tilt, the tail motor is actually closer to the hub (and more equal in distance from the physical center of the electrohub plates when compared with the front two motors). I didn't want to shorten the ESC wires, nor have a lot of excess wire dangling, so I just offset the tilt mount a bit. It's pretty secure with the three zip ties, and there's much less wiggle/slop when compared with the 13-370 tilt.

While I was making these large changes, I also updated the MultiWii software to the latest MultiWii pre-release of v2.4 (build of r1739 revision)

Detailed changes here: https://code.google.com/p/multiwii/source/list

I noticed that they're using Arduino IDE 1.6 on Windows for the 2.4 builds, but my OS of choice is linux, so I went ahead and updated my Arduino install to 1.6. I then diff-merged my old 2.3 config with the new 2.4 config.h and also enabled the multiple profiles feature so I can try different PID settings for different styles of flying. Once the rain/snow stops in my area, I hope to update the PID tuning on this.

The biggest change was that the servo limits with this new tilt don't need to be as restrictive as with the 13-370. With the old tilt, I had to limit the servo min/max to 1320 and 1900 respectively. With the tough tilt, the full range of motion is available and the default 1020/2000 values work, so I just commented out all SERVO_MIN/MAX/MID defines.

My ElectroHub/ToughTilt Tricopter config.h for MultiWii 2.4 r1739 (pre-release)