Hi builders.
I'm building the F-22 for the first time and i'm making it out of 1 large bit of foamboard (48x36"). On the video of the speedbuild kit, the foamboard of the wing area is folded in half with for packaging (i assume). My question is, I assume leaving it whole and not cutting it will be stronger than cutting and hot-gluing it (as i don't have any CF to put in right now anyway)? Its late here (11:46pm) so my brain isnt working at 100% and i may be waaay overthinking (or underthinking as the case may be) this.
Cheers.
-Sean
Sean,
My first two F22's wings bowed after probably less than 10 flights I was flying in pretty high wind. I build a third made it a little smaller and doubled up on the foam for the wing only. it's still straight, probably 10+ flights or so. but it's heavy and needs 3/4 to full throttle to stay in the air (but probably does 50+mph!!).
My recommendation is go fly the one you've already built and crash it up, one hard landing and you'll be patching the nose up before you know it. If you are able, bring some extra foam pieces, duct tape, a power inverter and a hot glue gun with you. most of my repairs have taken less than 5 minutes but will ruin the day if you don't have the materials with you to fix it.
After you get a feel for how it flies then invest in the carbon spar HK has them pretty cheap so I've been told. Once my current F22 is toast i'm going to back to 100% size on the plans and I'm going to add the spar, i think it's needed.
my 2 cents
-Jes
Just priced some junk on hobbyking... Would this get me in the air?
Turnigy 5X 5Ch Mini tx and rx
2 Turnigy TG9e 9g
Turnigy 2632 Brushless Motor 1500kv
APC style propeller 8x6-E
Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 40C Lipo Pack
TURNIGY TRUST 45A SBEC
The motor can draw up to 40A according to the specs they quouted on the page, figure a 45A speed controller would do the job?
Also I read in the comments that an 8x6 prop works with it. Any suggestions?
Scratch-built one of these last night. From the printed PDF file to a complete build (minus the motor) in about 4 hours.
I normally build everything out of the same Dollar Tree foam, but I had found a few pieces of Elmer's black core foam board and Elmers prism foam board at a store called Five Below for about $2 and change each. These boards are twice as strong as the plain DT foam, so I opted for no spar at all.
Nice and easy build, with no roadblocks. The nose assembly went in very tight on the test fit, so I had to shave /trim a bit here and there, but that's normal when you don't start w/ a laser-cut kit.
I also cut my 'bowtie' a bunch smaller for a higher kv, smaller prop motor, so I had to make separate slots for the fuselage rails about an inch outside the prop slot.
I have a Turnigy 2826-6 200kv that I'll be running on a 3s 1600 w/ 40A esc and 6x4 APC. Considering this is the set-up on my F-35 that is almost 2x the weight, I think it'll be ok
I'll post a maiden on the Tube here https://www.youtube.com/user/XXXTechRC when it happens.
~Cheers to all the folks at FliteTest for TONS of great vids, builds, ideas and inspiration. View attachment 24279 View attachment 24280
Has anyone figured out how to make this swappable? If I missed it as I see through let me know. If I didn't then maybe I'll give it a shot!
I did actually! I never used it, but I did think something up. Basically you just have to move the slot back slightly, cut out the slots for the power pod tabs in the bottom of the wing, cut a relief in the belly plate to clear the pod, and add strips of foam between the belly plate and upper wing around the pod cut out. (for support)
I hope this helps! If it isn't enough though I'll retro fit an old FT-22 with a pod and take photos of the process.