FT Mini Speedster Build (Mighty Minis)

fliteadmin

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If you are looking to scratch build this plane, you can find the plans at the bottom of this article.
Or, if you want to help support and save yourself some time, go ahead and pick up a Speed Build Kit from our store!
Before you build this you will need to assemble your Mini Power Pod, which you can see below.




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Here are all the pieces that create the wing.


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Be sure to use the gauges to get the proper angle of your wing.


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The larger dihedral gauge is the most important tool to use when gluing your wing together. Proper dihedral give the Speedster self stabilizing abilities and allows for proper coordinated turns.


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If this is your first time building one of our designs you may wonder what this symbol means.
There are two types of folds used to construct our kits, the A-fold and the B-fold.
An A-fold means that the side cheeks are going to rest ontop of the bottom plate.
A B-fold means that the side cheeks are going to rest beside the bottom plate.
An easy way to remember is that an A-fold is "above" and the B-fold is "beside".
The symbol etched into the fuselage shows that this part of the kit needs a B-fold.


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When folding the side cheeks, make sure they are perpendicular. This is another reason why the dihedral gauge is an all-star!


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If you don't want to use a razor blade to cut your bevels....


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...you can always staple a piece of sandpaper to a wood block to get the same effect, just a bit more messy!


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Always check your angles!


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When instaling the servos, ALWAYS center them first. It's much easier to do it now then to try and get to them while they are in the fuselage.
You can get a Servo Tester for less then $10, and trust us, it's worth it.


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Another super handy tool is a pair of Z-Benders. These will crimp a perfect z-bend into your push rods. These are not necessary by any means but do make the bends extremely clean to do it extremely easily.


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Speaking of push rods, we use .039 in (1mm) diameter wire. Get two wires that are 13 in (33 cm) long each, but you will end up cutting them to size. If you pick up a Speed Build Kit these are already included.
Try to mount your servos as close to the CG (Center of Gravity) as possible while still leaving room for the wing to pass through.
Always test fit before you glue!


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Once your wing is in, sight it to make sure it's straight.


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One optional step is to assemble the wheel pants.


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These will not affect the way the plane flies, but boy they are cute!


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The landing gear wire is 15.5 in (40 cm) x .063 in (1.6 mm). Also, already included in the Speed Build Kit.


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The last step is to install the Mini Power Pod. If you need additional help hooking up the servos correctly, check out our Connecting Electronics article.


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The throw gauge shows you precisely what angle you need to adjust your control surfaces to. The L is for low rates and the H for high.


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All that's left is to check the CG (Center of Gravity). Josh recommends that the plane balances just a touch nose down.
Remember: "A nose heavy plane may fly poorly, but a tail heavy plane flys only once."
If this is your first build then it might also be your first flight. If this is the case, CONGRATULATIONS! We know that your first flight can be intimidating but we are here to help you. We strongly recommend that you check out our First Flight Quick Tips video. It's a great resource for first time pilots and will help to take the edge off that first maiden.


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We hope that you have as much fun with these Mighty Minis as we do!
Be sure to let us know what designs you might want to see shrunk down in the future!


FREE PLANS
FT Mini Speedster [Tiled Plans]
FT Mini Speedster [Full Plans]

RECOMMENDED ELECTRONICS
All In One Electronics Kit: Lazertoyz - FT MINI POWER/ELECTRONICS PACK
MOTOR (Option 1) - EMAX MT1804 2480KV Brushless Motor
MOTOR (Option 2) - RTF Mini Motor X2204 v2 2300KV
4 Servos (Option 1) - Towerpro SG50 5g Micro Servo
4 Servos (Option 2) - HXT500 6.2g / 0.6kg / .08sec Micro Servo
ESC (Option 1) - Dynam - Dectrum 12Amp ESC w/ 3A BEC
ESC (Option 2) - Suppo 10A Brushless ESC
Battery (Option 1) - Turnigy nano-tech 460mah 2S 25~40C Lipo Pack
Battery (Option 2) - Turnigy nano-tech 460mah 3S 25~40C Lipo Pack
Battery (Option 3) - Turnigy 800mAh 2S 20C Long Lipo Pack
Prop (Option 1) - Direct Drive HQ Prop - 6x3 Black
Prop (Option 2) - Direct Drive HQ Prop - 6x4.5 - Black
 

eagle4

Member
Fantastic video. good to see a lot of beginner tips in this one too.

I did however notice that the camera man seemed to be struggling to find focus a lot of time. perhaps thats just me.

I am going to have to get some small gear to build one of these


I was thinking, if you want to use 9 gram servos, it might be a good idea to cut some servo sized holes in the top of the fuselage. it wont be seen as it will be under the poster board, but it'll allow you to move them over the CG or perhaps infront of it. allowing you more freedom.
 

mrstamp80

New member
I would say that will work just fine. Yes i think it's a typo, you only need 2 servos for each plane, so if you get both planes you would need 4. Hope that helps.
 

Lucs2112

Junior Member
A little Help

Hey guys, I`m new here in the forum and to the hobby, but I liked very much the Mini Speedster so I`m thinking about scratch building one.

The thing is, I know absolutely nothing about the eletric parts. On top of that I`m from Brazil, and here the only place I can found those parts is in the International Wherehouse of HobbyKing.

I did some reserch to find a substitute motor to the Emax (because hobby king don`t have them) and end up with this one:


http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14399__Turnigy_Park250_Brushless_Outrunner_2200kv.html


Also, the Esc, Prop and Battery that I`m thinking of buying are these:


http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor...0A_V2_ESC_With_BLHeli_and_2A_LBEC_2_3S_V.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...llers_Standard_and_Counter_Rotating_6pc_.html

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11896__Turnigy_nano_tech_460mah_2S_25_40C_Lipo_Pack.html


I would very much like the help of you guys to tell me if it is every thing ok, or if I am going end up burning the ESC, or Motor or anything at all!


I hope I posted this in the right place and didn`t disrespected any forum rules. Also, sorry for my english!!

Thanks Everyone!!!!:D
 

Balu

Lurker
Staff member
Admin
Moderator
Do you guys use any special hot melt glue for this or is any off the shelf glue stick fine?

Standard hot glue sticks. There are some reports having problems with "milky" glue sticks though. If you can you should try to avoid those for now and use clear ones.
 

grether2000

Junior Member
11x17 sized plan rev2

Rev 2 of trying to make these easier to print on a 11x17 printer without having to tape pages together. The parts are a lot closer together, but puts everything on one 8.5x11 and two 11x17 pages.

The Scout version can be found in it's own thread.

Edit: Lesson learned, check before posting :( Something in what I did let stuff change size!
File removed for now.

Use Mikemacwillie's reformatted plans
 
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davidgeorge212

Junior Member
I just built one of these and flew it yesterday. Has anyone else experienced tail heavy characteristics when balanced at the recommended cg points? Mine acts like it has little rudder authourity and wants to easily tip stall. I moved the cg further forward and it helped but it still needs more. I might need to extend the nose further forward. Any suggestions?

David
 

Corbarrad

Active member
I just built one of these and flew it yesterday. Has anyone else experienced tail heavy characteristics when balanced at the recommended cg points? Mine acts like it has little rudder authourity and wants to easily tip stall. I moved the cg further forward and it helped but it still needs more. I might need to extend the nose further forward. Any suggestions?

David

Josh B. defines a plane as "balanced" when the nose points down a bit if held at the cg marker, so if you set the plane up level you'll be tail heavy already.

Apart from that, it's a scratch build, so there will always be slight variations. Just set it up the way it flies best for you.
Before you build a new fuselage with a longer nose, why not try moving the power pod forward a little, even if that means the motor will sick out a little...?
 

Grounded Gremlin

The guy that doesn't fly
Did I see ailerons on that Scout?? And also, in the background of the latest episode (DIY Micro FPV), is that a Storch Mighty-Mini?? Love these Minis FT!! Can't wait to see more! What's next? :p Also v. excited about Flite Test Foamboard!!

Cheers,

Finn
 

Fyathyrio

Member
Well, maidened my mini speedster today...first flight was a little nose heavy but got it on the ground safely, did some minor adjustments, and took off again. Second flight I have a nice gentle nose up attitude, feels good, make a gentle turn and just as it gets broadside to the breeze (running 3-5mph) a gust out of nowhere hits and flips it upside down. No ailerons so it immediately noses in. No major damage though, but the fuse foam broke right where trailing edge of wing meets it on both sides, so if building one now, perhaps add a little reinforcement to that spot. Up until that point it was calm enough to fly a ParkZone Champ trainer...and afterwards it was still calm enough for the Champ.

The ZMR/RCX 1804 motor had good power for this setup, and the HQ6030 prop seemed to work well without going too fast. The H-King 10A ESC is nice and light, worked well, and is inexpensive. A little tape and glue and I'll be up and running again in no time.
 

T-Richard

Active member
Well, maidened my mini speedster today...first flight was a little nose heavy but got it on the ground safely, did some minor adjustments, and took off again. Second flight I have a nice gentle nose up attitude, feels good, make a gentle turn and just as it gets broadside to the breeze (running 3-5mph) a gust out of nowhere hits and flips it upside down. No ailerons so it immediately noses in. No major damage though, but the fuse foam broke right where trailing edge of wing meets it on both sides, so if building one now, perhaps add a little reinforcement to that spot. Up until that point it was calm enough to fly a ParkZone Champ trainer...and afterwards it was still calm enough for the Champ.

The ZMR/RCX 1804 motor had good power for this setup, and the HQ6030 prop seemed to work well without going too fast. The H-King 10A ESC is nice and light, worked well, and is inexpensive. A little tape and glue and I'll be up and running again in no time.

running on 2s?
 

AeroMaestro

Senior Member
Second flight I have a nice gentle nose up attitude, feels good, make a gentle turn and just as it gets broadside to the breeze (running 3-5mph) a gust out of nowhere hits and flips it upside down. No ailerons so it immediately noses in. No major damage though, but the fuse foam broke right where trailing edge of wing meets it on both sides, so if building one now, perhaps add a little reinforcement to that spot.

I had the exact same experience yesterday. Broke the fuse in the same spot, too. Even though Josh suggested not gluing the wing in, I went right inside and glued that thing in tight.
 

Fyathyrio

Member
running on 2s?

Yeah, 2S with my setup gives about 220g thrust on test stand, should be plenty as my plane weighs about 202g AUW. Thinking about it more, seems like wing doesn't generate much lift for it's size. Guess it's time to practice my split S skills if this is going to be a common issue.
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
Is this suitable for a beginner pilot?

I can build it for sure but am looking for a slow flyer to learn in a small area.