FT Simple Storch - BUILD

[AkimboGlueGuns]

do you mean with different weight the CG mentioned by Josh 2" from leading edge cannot be used? sorry for this noob question. this is my first rc plane and first time building this

You CG should still be 2" from the leading edge. I'm thinking that because your foam is heavier that it will throw the CG off. Because T=F*D and your foam weighs more you effectively have more torque on the tail end of your aircraft (aft of CG) and it will fly like it is more tail heavy than it actually is. Because of this extra tail torque (we'll call it Tt, because I don't want to write it down every time) the entire plane becomes more sensitive to CG changes. If anything you would want a more forward CG, especially with the way Josh designs planes. Try moving the CG to 1.5 inches from the leading edge, that will probably help with counteracting Tt and neutralizing the tail heavy tendencies.

 

[Bayboos]

do you mean with different weight the CG mentioned by Josh 2" from leading edge cannot be used? sorry for this noob question. this is my first rc plane and first time building this

My plane flies with CG approx 5-7cm (1-1.5") from the leading edge, and it feels perfectly stable.

thanks for the input..yes i guess if tail heavy i can replace to heavier tyre. btw my tyre is already 3/4oz hehe diameter 90mm

Changing the wheels will not make almost any difference. What Tirick had in mind is to go to regular car workshop/ or car parts shop) and ask for the rim weights - the ones used in regular cars to balance the rims/wheels. Those weights are small, but quite heavy; and usually have double-sided adhesive tape already sticked to the back. You can use one or two of them (glued inside the nose of a plane, as far forward as you can) to move the CG into proper place.

I was expecting faster and more power with the gee bee motor I have but I never thought the behaviour of the plane "draggy" would eventually effect the way it fly. yeap I still need how to find the CoG.. should I use 2" behind leading edge in the video?

what is 1:2 t/w, i think t/w standfor thrust and weight? how you calculate or know you are flying 1:2t/w?

thanks so much guys for your help.. I definitely need to build new airframe some part are broken.

By "draggy" we meant the plane creates a lot of air drag, and thus don't want to fly fast. But in your case the drag is not a problem. It's the CG position. When the CG is too far back, the plane cannot be controlled and increases AoA (Angle of Attack) by itself. Exactly as your plane did on the video.

1:2 t/w stands for "1 to 2 thrust to weight ratio". That means the plane plane creates one "unit" of thrust while it weights two "units" of mass. In case of my Storch, it's exactly 1:2 t/w: my plane weights 800g, but is capable of producing 400g of thrust only. Your plane weights 1.2kg, and the motor/prop combo you have should be capable of producing 1.2kg of thrust - that's 1:1 t/w.

1:2 t/w can usually be found in trainer/scale looking planes; and some gliders (especially the bigger ones). 1:1 t/w can usually be found in classic aerobatic planes. Anything more than that (for example 1.5:1 or 2:1) means you can generate more thrust than the plane weights - and that is a must for overpowered, 3D capable, 200Mph+ flying motors with tiny wings.

 

[iqbal2403]

I have finally finished my second build Storch after crashes due to my less-knowledge.
with help and explanation with Bayboos, Akimbogluegun, Localfiend, Tirick and Dancraft I have finally flown my second build storch..

 

[Bayboos]

Congratulations!

 

[area66]

Hi, I’m building a simple Storch and I don’t place the trailing edge spar spacer, my idea is to give a kind of fix very tin flap at the back resulting in lower speed fly for my back yard …any tough ?????

 

[Bayboos]

I don't believe this kind of modification will help you fly noticeably slower. It's just too small to make any difference when flying slow. But it will definitely make one when flying fast: due to changed effective wing inclination angle, the plane will fly in unusual, "tail high" configuration.

 

[alexh]

Finished painting my FT Simple Storch last night. We orders a water proof kit. It was fun to build. We added flaps right away. After a successful maiden flight it went to garage for painting. I used a Zinsser schellac based primer to prime and Rust-Oleum paint. I am not sure if I would do it again. It added more durability to the surface but it was pain in the butt to do it.
After a few landings, the bottom part where two landing wires connect to the fuselage was almost ripped off and needed some reinforcement. It would be nice to have it more springy to absorb some shock from hitting the ground. Also we have to add some tail wheel.
I don't know if you noticed, but the left location of flaps servo is off to the left by the size of the servo. We had to correct that in such a way that they are at the same distance from the center of the wing.







The first flight when it was still brown:

 

[Warrior7906]

Storch

Here is my Storch

 

[nhk750]

My Storch

Here's my Storch, a little rough as this is my first and I am a terrible painter...I call it the Bumble Bee...



Ya, I stuck the black window decal on top of the Black wing...ooops...

 

[ClearSkiesCalmWinds]

Nice share. Great Job!

 

[Rotor Rash]

thrust angle set in sbk

In the process of building up my first speed built kit. Test fitting a complete powerpod seems to provide excessive downthrust. At least when using the fdront of coal as a datum surface. Is this normal? Seems like I would need to lower the rear skewers hole in fuse by at least half inch to achieve what I feel would be a neutral thrust angle.

 

[Bayboos]

Don't do that. I built my first Storch using SBK and based all my subsequent depron builds on that; and if anything, I'd say the DOWNthrust angle is either perfect or can even be increased (just a tiny bit). The Storch is really a very good design. I strongly recommend completing it exactly as instructed. And if you are not happy, there's enough space to do that later - that's the beauty of using power pod in this plane.

 

[Rotor Rash]

Don't do that. I built my first Storch using SBK and based all my subsequent depron builds on that; and if anything, I'd say the DOWNthrust angle is either perfect or can even be increased (just a tiny bit). The Storch is really a very good design. I strongly recommend completing it exactly as instructed. And if you are not happy, there's enough space to do that later - that's the beauty of using power pod in this plane.

Thanks for the reply bayboos! Think I will go back to factory specs. It doesn't look as bad now with the prop mounted and I would expect some down thrust is needed. Glad I asked! Could've been an interesting maiden with too much up thrust!!

 

[mikeporterinmd]

I picked up a light crease in the elevator on my Storch. It doesn't appear to be too bad, but I am getting a fair amount of unwanted flex. Is there a simple way to restore some rigidity? (Built from a speed build kit using WRFB).

I was thinking about taking some paper off scrap foam and using white glue the paper on.

Another option would be to take a razor blade and remove a regular section of the creased area, cut a new piece and hot glue together.

The hinge was made using the "Old time" method of gluing 1/8" dowels to the surfaces and applying knots at several points. So, the hinge is fine and very strong. Because the area where the elevator intersects with the rudder has this dowel, it is in pretty good shape.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[richardbbq]

Hi everyone, first post and I'm a complete noob.
I'm making a Quickbuild Storch and bought all the recommended gear from the FliteTest store including this EMax motor: https://store.flitetest.com/emax-gt2215-1100kv-motor/

My question is how do you actually mount this on the power pod?
All the videos I have seen for the build of the Storch and the power pod video use a different (smaller) motor and I can't work it out.
I realise that you can use either end of the motor.

I think the way I have assembled it here is probably wrong?? Not sure how I could attach it to the wooden part of the power pod.


These are the other bits the motor came with. Not sure if all need to be used.


Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[Ron B]

you need to mount the "X" on the end of the motor then mount it to the fire wall use the shortest screws on the X to the motor
you may have to use the other adapter for your prop
I have used these but it has been a while and I think your adapter is for multi rotors and the other one is for fixed wing.

 

[mikeporterinmd]

Lol, I just went through this. The end with the bare shaft sticking out (right side of motor in your photos) will go through the firewall. Mount the X on that end of the motor and use "wood" screws to mount the X on to the firewall. Install the X on the motor so the tapers in the holes on the end of the X work with screws going through them and into the firewall.

On the other end of the motor, there is a plate screwed on with four screws. Remove that plate and install the plate with the threaded shaft that is, oh, 5mm or so in diameter? It's in the photo you have above. Install your prop of that shaft. The bare metal shaft on the other end of the motor will go through the firewall and have nothing attached.

Referencing your photos, the trick is to know you can remove the plate on the left hand side of the motor. After you know that, the rest just works out.

Whenever attaching items directly to a motor, make sure you use the proper screws. Screws that are too long can damaging the magnets or windings and destroy the motor.

There might be other ways to do this.

Mike

 

[nhk750]

I used the wood screws on my Emax, then used nuts and bolts on the Turnigy motor I mounted. Super solid with nuts and bolts! Get them at hardware store.

Basically, you can mount motors in several ways as long as it holds the weight of the model and they don't come loose.

 

[richardbbq]

Thank to everyone for their support and advice.
I think I finally figured it out correctly? - see photos, including a photo of all the bits left over from the box - the four screws obviously meant to mount it to the wood.

I was hoping to have the shiny bullet shape 'cap' on top of the propeller but it didn't seem as secure as the nut, so I have left it off...

The bit that surprised me is that there will be a spinning piece of smooth shaft inside the PowerPod- I better make sure that this isn't touching on to anything in there e.g. wires.

 

[mikeporterinmd]

That's how mine looks!

Mike