m00ndancer
Member
My Storch is ready for maiden, no paint on it yet. Scratch built with XPS foam and tape.
FT Simple Storch - BUILD
- Thread starter fliteadmin
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Hi..
This is going to be my first build. can someone please advise me how to print the tiled plan?are these using A4 size paper configuration from the printer config?
thanks, appreciate for any answer.
I hope they can send the quick build plan to Asia! to bad..I have to print it.
This is going to be my first build. can someone please advise me how to print the tiled plan?are these using A4 size paper configuration from the printer config?
thanks, appreciate for any answer.
I hope they can send the quick build plan to Asia! to bad..I have to print it.
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iqbal,
The tiles are sized to print within typical printer margins of A4 or US Letter. All you have to do is NOT print scaled to fit.
Just print it at 100% onto the local paper you use, then trim the excess off using the cross-hairs near the corners. Align, tape, and you're good to go
The tiles are sized to print within typical printer margins of A4 or US Letter. All you have to do is NOT print scaled to fit.
Just print it at 100% onto the local paper you use, then trim the excess off using the cross-hairs near the corners. Align, tape, and you're good to go
Best thing for it: A sharp Exacto #11 style blade (if you're using paper-lined foamboard, the blades dull quickly and the cuts become jagged). Sharpen or replace as soon as you feel/see it start to drag. For something the size of the Storch, I'd expect 3-4 blade changes.
On curves, cut with the blade more upright and consider taking multiple passes. Straight cuts you can lean the blade over more, so more of the blade is in contact with the foam. On a sharp blade, cutting all the way through on the first pass is just fine. try not to use too much force, particularly twisting as it can snap off the fine point.
Try not to use your cutting blade to cut tape or through adhesives -- gums it up and you'll have to trade it out sooner.
Take your time and it should be fine
On curves, cut with the blade more upright and consider taking multiple passes. Straight cuts you can lean the blade over more, so more of the blade is in contact with the foam. On a sharp blade, cutting all the way through on the first pass is just fine. try not to use too much force, particularly twisting as it can snap off the fine point.
Try not to use your cutting blade to cut tape or through adhesives -- gums it up and you'll have to trade it out sooner.
Take your time and it should be fine
a week ago... I asked some guide..
and thanks so much for the support and advised Craftydan! I am finally buidl one storch. I just used cutter and it worked perfect just need to change blade when I felt dult. My board sheet paper is quite thick, even its 5mm. I feel the plane is heavy.
jeng jeng jeng......
regards from Malaysia!
and thanks so much for the support and advised Craftydan! I am finally buidl one storch. I just used cutter and it worked perfect just need to change blade when I felt dult. My board sheet paper is quite thick, even its 5mm. I feel the plane is heavy.
jeng jeng jeng......
regards from Malaysia!
you're probably right . . . that motor looks all kinds of wrong for the storch . . . and the battery you show looks . . . small.
I expect the little 2700kV motor you have is way too fast and it's max current it way too light. The "right" propeller to use is generally matched to both the motor and airframe, so for the storch you're probably looking at a 9-12" prop, probably with a slow pitch. which one? depends on the motor. The motor that would go with that would be something in the order of 800-1300kV, and likely draws 18-30A on 3S.
As far as the battery . . . you might be looking in the neighborhood of a 3S 2200mAh for balance and reasonable flight time.
I'm not sure which motors would be available to you, but if you find something that might fit the bill, you can always ask.
BTW . . . Great job on the build
I expect the little 2700kV motor you have is way too fast and it's max current it way too light. The "right" propeller to use is generally matched to both the motor and airframe, so for the storch you're probably looking at a 9-12" prop, probably with a slow pitch. which one? depends on the motor. The motor that would go with that would be something in the order of 800-1300kV, and likely draws 18-30A on 3S.
As far as the battery . . . you might be looking in the neighborhood of a 3S 2200mAh for balance and reasonable flight time.
I'm not sure which motors would be available to you, but if you find something that might fit the bill, you can always ask.
BTW . . . Great job on the build
m00ndancer
Member
I'm really impressed with the way the Storch flies. Maiden yesterday. Really easy to get off the ground and really easy to land. Even tried a landing with full flaps for the first time! The bad video of it is in the show us your maiden tread
It looks really tail heavy. Move your battery, ESC, and everything else you can further up towards the front. You need to check your balance.
Those electronics should work for just cruising around. You won't have a lot of extra power, but it will fly.
TAIL HEAVY!
Thanks for the input guys!.. all the battery and other electronic setup is reached to the edge already..
and that flight was in full throttle..
I need to rebuild this plan again..I guess hot glue was consume weight at tail area..
btw, if I want to have more speed that can pull 1.2Kg airframe, what is the recommended setup? should I get 1300Kv motor as suggest by Dan previously?
in my area the 5mm foam board is laminated with 80-180gsm paper unlike the readi tree dollar foam which is lighter then the one I used.
and that flight was in full throttle..
I need to rebuild this plan again..I guess hot glue was consume weight at tail area..
btw, if I want to have more speed that can pull 1.2Kg airframe, what is the recommended setup? should I get 1300Kv motor as suggest by Dan previously?
in my area the 5mm foam board is laminated with 80-180gsm paper unlike the readi tree dollar foam which is lighter then the one I used.
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The foam is probably your problem then. The different weight distribution will throw off the CG.
Bayboos
Active member
Excuse, me, but... what? The electronics came from 1.2kg plane that was way faster than the Storch is supposed to be: Dynam Geebee 1270mm. Since Detrum are usually installed in PnF/BnF kits or sold as spare parts, it's hard to find detailed specs; but the whole 3715 family seems to fall around 400w/1200g of static thrust spot. 1:1 thrust to weight ratio is definitely much more than "cruising is ok, but no extra power". You will probably not be able to hover, but the vertical climb will be practically unlimited. That's of course after you will resolve your CoG issue.
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The Storch is a super draggy airframe, and unless that motor exceeds estimated specs, in reality it will slow a lot in a full vertical climb. It will suck up a lot more power just flying than the Geebee the motor came from.
Most of the Flitetest planes you see in all their videos have a thrust to weight ratio much higher than 1 to 1. So I stand by saying it will be fine for cruising around, just don't expect extra power on hand to pull you out of a mistake.
I also wouldn't jump straight to rebuilding the plane. If it's still in good shape after the crash, do as suggested above and add weight to the nose until it balances.
Bayboos
Active member
Yes, the Storch is draggy; and that's why it doesn't want to fly really fast. But it was never meant to. On the other hand, it has huge, high lift wing, so it doesn't need to as well. Pulling out of a mistake doesn't usually mean "apply full power - the more the better - and wait". It's more like "bring it back to level flight, use the motor to keep it in the air long enough". 1:1 t/w is more than enough for that.
Yes, the FliteTest crew tends to overpower their airplanes, but that doesn't mean it's the only way to fly them. I'm currently flying my Storch with 1:2 t/w, and I have no problems with full aerobatics: loops, rolls, hammeheads (or as some prefer to call them: stall turns), inverted, knife edge; you name it. It's true that the plane is not capable of any 3D stunts (it was not designed to be, that's what the Buskwacker is for); but it's definitely not "cruising around, nothing else" as well.
I agree with you that rebuilding the plane in't usually the first and/or best choice. But in this case it MAY be. As described by iqbal2403, the plane is already on the heavy side, with pretty heavy motor and all the electronics all the way forward. With 1,2kg AUW, it may require a lot of extra weight to balance it properly. If there is a chance that excessive use of hot glue is to be blamed for CoG problems, rebuilding the fuselage (not the wing, it doesn't change anything) may be a good option to try. But that decission can be made by the builder only.
Yes, the FliteTest crew tends to overpower their airplanes, but that doesn't mean it's the only way to fly them. I'm currently flying my Storch with 1:2 t/w, and I have no problems with full aerobatics: loops, rolls, hammeheads (or as some prefer to call them: stall turns), inverted, knife edge; you name it. It's true that the plane is not capable of any 3D stunts (it was not designed to be, that's what the Buskwacker is for); but it's definitely not "cruising around, nothing else" as well.
I agree with you that rebuilding the plane in't usually the first and/or best choice. But in this case it MAY be. As described by iqbal2403, the plane is already on the heavy side, with pretty heavy motor and all the electronics all the way forward. With 1,2kg AUW, it may require a lot of extra weight to balance it properly. If there is a chance that excessive use of hot glue is to be blamed for CoG problems, rebuilding the fuselage (not the wing, it doesn't change anything) may be a good option to try. But that decission can be made by the builder only.
do you mean with different weight the CG mentioned by Josh 2" from leading edge cannot be used? sorry for this noob question. this is my first rc plane and first time building this
thanks for the input..yes i guess if tail heavy i can replace to heavier tyre. btw my tyre is already 3/4oz hehe diameter 90mm
I was expecting faster and more power with the gee bee motor I have but I never thought the behaviour of the plane "draggy" would eventually effect the way it fly. yeap I still need how to find the CoG.. should I use 2" behind leading edge in the video?
what is 1:2 t/w, i think t/w standfor thrust and weight? how you calculate or know you are flying 1:2t/w?
thanks so much guys for your help.. I definitely need to build new airframe
some part are broken.I saw their video the plane could fly with 50% throttle..
my plane not in good shape anymore hehe..this is my first plane and I saw in video its a good plane for beginner or trainer.
let see if I success with my heavy foam board to build this..
thanks localfriend.
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