Help to connect wires to KK2.1.5

[Andrea]

Plus, i have noticed one thing, after some seconds the board change the status: no yaw input or no roll input, could it possible that i have bad wires? (I made the wires for myself because in local shop they sells wires with only one pin, so i have to weld the other one...)
I'll check the throttle thing..thank you ( i make my apologies for my english.....)

Ok i made very awful wires also i have fixed the issue with the throttle and rudder, now T is 100 and R 95.
I have to buy new wires.( i have only two wires now..)

 

[Craftydan]

With 2 wires you may still be able to get it to run.

Your wiring harness between the RX and kk2 only needs one cable with all three wires, not 5 -- the rest can be a single wire. A typical servo cable has 3 wires -- ground, power, and signal. The RX needs power/ground/signal on one cable, but the remainder can be only signal since the power and ground wires are redundant.

You might have to pull pins from connectors to get them in the right order on your RX, but you can fly with only 2 cables -- pick one channel on either end to hook up as usual, then the remaining wire gets plugged in sideways across the 3 remaining flight channels, closest to the screen, and alligned with the light colored wire on the RX side. Again, move signal wires around in the connector to get the channel order right. Only downside to this is you'll loose the AUX channel . . . at least until you can get another wire.

 

[bacpck]

Dan

Thanks again for the insight, after my other post concerning the UBEC I wanted to confirm the above as well regarding the signal wires. Now I don't have to go looking for the information. I am actually thinking about going away from servo connectors entirely for the flight board hookup and using single wires with a female that will slide over the pins.

 

[cranialrectosis]

I am running the Naze 32 on three of my copters and run the power and ground from one ESC to the FCB but the other ESCs I only run the signal wire. I also went PPM on my receiver/FCB and now only run one power, one ground and one signal wire between my receiver and FCB. I have three builds on this forum (that I need to update) but my latest is here:
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthre...Polakium-Engineering-Super-Simple-H-Quad-(v3)

It shows how I built a jumper from three pin servo connectors to connect the receiver and FCB and shows how I clean the ESCs, trim the wires to length and use single female arduino connectors to connect the ESC wires to the FCB. Using arduino wires allows me to select a color wire that suits my build as well.

In my latest build, I am soldering the FrSky receiver directly to the Naze 32. I use no wires between the FCB and the receiver at all. I am still taking photos and getting the frame for my latest build so there is no thread yet.

 

[Andrea]

How can i notice a reversed channel on the board? (Props are off, all wires works now and lcd shows "full" aside the throttle in receiver test, but the board doesn't arm)

 

[cranialrectosis]

Go into receiver test on the KK2.

When you move the throttle stick up, the receiver test should show throttle going up. If the receiver test shows throttle going down when you move the stick up, the channel is reversed.

Do the same check for all channels.

 

[Andrea]

Go into receiver test on the KK2.

When you move the throttle stick up, the receiver test should show throttle going up. If the receiver test shows throttle going down when you move the stick up, the channel is reversed.

Do the same check for all channels.

Ok, what control surface should i have on the throttle stick? (throttle one the right)
And what control surfare should i have on the left side?

 

[Craftydan]

Ok, what control surface should i have on the throttle stick? (throttle one the right)
And what control surfare should i have on the left side?

That depends on what mode tx you fly, and to a great degree, is a personal choice.

Mode 1 and 3 have the roll (aileron) on the same stick as throttle. Mode 2 and 4 have yaw (rudder) on the same stick as throttle.

From where you live, your radio is likely set to Mode 1, but unless you have a LOT of stick time, I'd recommend mode 4 -- throttle/yaw on the right, roll/pitch on the left. with this setup your left stick controls the craft's attitude naturally (it pitches/rolls in the direction of the stick while tail-in), and the right controls heading and throttle.

if you wire up so the receiver test yields all the correct movements, you shouldn't need to do anything to the radio to convert from Mode 1 to 4.

 

[Andrea]

I checked all the things...but it remain in safe...

 

[cranialrectosis]

Ok, what control surface should i have on the throttle stick? (throttle one the right)
And what control surfare should i have on the left side?

These are personal choice questions.

What is important is what the KK2 shows in the receiver test.

In the receiver test on the KK2, when you move the throttle stick (whichever stick you want to use for throttle) what does the KK2 tell you it is seeing?

Here is a video showing how the receiver test is done. Note how he moves each stick and watches to see which way the numbers move to ensure that his channels are working the correct direction. The receiver test starts at about 2:08. You can see that his rudder and elevator channels are reversed in the video. He changes them on his transmitter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NAXSBCtSLY

 

[Craftydan]

I checked all the things...but it remain in safe...

Ok, just to confirm . . .

- you've reflashed to a new version of the ROM

- you've re-run the motor layout sleection and accelerometer calibration (you must do both)

- you've opened up the reciever test and confirmed that *all* controls run very close to -100 -> +100, centering at 0, and moving left/right/up/down to follow the stick.

- going back to the SAFE screen, you've given it full throttle + full right rudder . . . and still no ARM?

 

[Andrea]

These are personal choice questions.

What is important is what the KK2 shows in the receiver test.

In the receiver test on the KK2, when you move the throttle stick (whichever stick you want to use for throttle) what does the KK2 tell you it is seeing?

Here is a video showing how the receiver test is done. Note how he moves each stick and watches to see which way the numbers move to ensure that his channels are working the correct direction. The receiver test starts at about 2:08. You can see that his rudder and elevator channels are reversed in the video. He changes them on his transmitter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NAXSBCtSLY

when i move the throttle stick the kk2 shows 0---->105
I fixed the direction but nothing happened...
The rx,tx and the other part works, i tried them on my F22...

 

[cranialrectosis]

Ok so throttle works in the correct direction.

Good. That's 50% of arming.

What about yaw. Arming the copter requires throttle position AND yaw. If yaw is reversed the copter will arm but the yaw movement will be backwards.

Run the receiver test and this time, test yaw. When you move the rudder stick to the right the KK2 should show RIGHT.

What does the KK2 receiver test show when you move your yaw stick to the Right?

 

[Andrea]

Ok so throttle works in the correct direction.

Good. That's 50% of arming.

What about yaw. Arming the copter requires throttle position AND yaw. If yaw is reversed the copter will arm but the yaw movement will be backwards.

Run the receiver test and this time, test yaw. When you move the rudder stick to the right the KK2 should show RIGHT.

What does the KK2 receiver test show when you move your yaw stick to the Right?

When i move the stick on the right the board shows: Rudder 0---->100 right

 

[cranialrectosis]

Good.

Now in the KK2 receiver test, when you are not touching the sticks, do all your controlls (except aux) show 0? If not, go into the subtrims (not the trims) on your transmitter and adjust your subtrims so that in the KK2 Receiver test all the controls show 0 when you are not touching the sticks and the throttle is at minimum.

 

[Andrea]

All 0 except the AUX, i moved all the sticks up and down, i became armed for 2 second and comes back to safe.....
mmmm

 

[cranialrectosis]

All 0 except the AUX, i moved all the sticks up and down, i became armed for 2 second and comes back to safe.....
mmmm

You became armed in the Receiver test?

Or you armed the copter after the receiver test and then the copter disarmed?

 

[Andrea]

You became armed in the Receiver test?

Or you armed the copter after the receiver test and then the copter disarmed?

i'm sorry, the tricopter became armed after the receiver test when i was moving the sticks randomly..
but he comes back to safe after 2 second

 

[Andrea]

Ok, just to confirm . . .

- you've reflashed to a new version of the ROM

- you've re-run the motor layout sleection and accelerometer calibration (you must do both)

- you've opened up the reciever test and confirmed that *all* controls run very close to -100 -> +100, centering at 0, and moving left/right/up/down to follow the stick.

- going back to the SAFE screen, you've given it full throttle + full right rudder . . . and still no ARM?

Yes..still not arm...

 

[Andrea]

How can i reset my HK T6 ?? Because the tricopter become armed if i turn on " switch B "

I came up with this procedure:

Pull up "switch B"
Rudder on the right
Armed


If i want to disarm:

Take off the battery
Pull down "switch B"