How to make (and use) a wing sanding block?

Maingear

Flugzeug Liebhaber
The only hold up in my project is sanding the profile in the TE/ailerons and LE.

What type of wood should I use where the sandpaper is placed?
Do I need to make different sizes for the changes in grit used?
Can I make the TE tip to a point? (the airfoil's TE is sharp)
How do I keep the block from digging into the wing on the spar side of the sanding block?
Can I glue 1/4" balsa so I don't have to buy TE stock?

Anything I didn't think of?

Thank you!

Justin
 

MikeBg

Member
I use a sanding sponge for round surfaces like a wing. Get them from the paint department of any hardware store. Because the edges are soft it will not dig into the wood.

MikeBg
 

Stradawhovious

"That guy"
Sanding blocks are a very individual thing. I have big ones, small ones, curved ones, angled ones, round ones, etc. etc. etc.

Like any other jig, the sanding block should be made for the task at hand... not making the task at hand be dictated by the sanding block.
 

Maingear

Flugzeug Liebhaber
The wing's profile has an undercamber so I have to sand the top and bottom. The wing's profile has been chopped in SketchUp, only need to resize before the file is sent to the cutter.

It would be nice to turn them out with an OX cnc, then I could forget all about the sanding blocks!

Thanks for the feedback.

Justin
 

Maingear

Flugzeug Liebhaber
I 3d printed LE & TE sanding blocks with a lulzbot taz. I already had the rib profile in sketchup, so I extruded the shape, then imported it into Cura. Cura sliced the model automatically then sent the job to the printer. 3 hours later I had a perfect sanding block! Used double sided sticky tape to adhere sandpaper. There was absolutely no flex in the block and it is in the exact same condition it came out of the printer. it will laster longer than I will.

Justin
 

Fogwalker

Junior Member
I 3d printed LE & TE sanding blocks with a lulzbot taz. I already had the rib profile in sketchup, so I extruded the shape, then imported it into Cura. Cura sliced the model automatically then sent the job to the printer. 3 hours later I had a perfect sanding block! Used double sided sticky tape to adhere sandpaper. There was absolutely no flex in the block and it is in the exact same condition it came out of the printer. it will laster longer than I will.

Justin

i have access to a 3d printer! You juct changed the way I build! well played good sir.