Help! Master series design help thread

GrizWiz

Elite member
Some people say that paper models work good, but I have found there are loads of adjustments needing to be made to get them to work!
 

otto54

New member
Cool! How do you do it?

First what I did was pass the templates to fusion 360, I scaled the templates since I knew that the structural parts are 1mm, from 1mm to 5mm and I obtained a quite acceptable scale, according to fusion the wing has a wingspan of 1.5 m
 

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leaded50

Legendary member
trouble is paper is 1/10th of a millimeter (0.0039 inches.) .. and foamboard is 3 or 5mm, (or FT 4.8mm?) so to keep the propotions, skins eg needs be alike, but all internals must be adjusted in size to fit the foamboard eg. And that can also alter som angles here and there.. So even the skins dont need fit great, because changes of the angles,because internals are smaller.
 

Rishabh flyer

New member
Hi everyone!

Here is a thread where people can ask all their questions about how to design master series planes.
Hopefully we can get all the info you need to design these types of planes, and see even more master series scratch builds

Feel free to share your techniques, comments and opinions about master series design.
I just want you to tell me that in your site about using cad how did you brought all the formers behind each other after drawing then on one plane
I know that you are going to put that on site but till that time pls tell here or pls tell a site where I can get to know about it plssssss!!!!!
 

Battery800

Elite member
I have the shape of the former for the center fuse here, it’s about a 3.5 inch square
image.jpg
 

Whit Armstrong

Elite member
How should I run the box in the fuselage and how large should it be? I’m building a twin otter

If you want to use a powerpod, I think it has to have an inside width of 51 mm. That might be the outside width though, so just import one of the plans into inkscape and measure the width. Heightwize, it can be as tall as you like, as long as it is taller than the powerpod. Of course, this mostly applies to single engine models. For twins, it can be any size you like as long as you can fit the battery.
 

smiling albert

Active member
Very helpful video

Couple of quick questions for discussion
1.Which formers are tripled -is it the ones near the wings for extra strength?
On my 109 I am also putting a triple one on the front one to provide extra strength up front in the event of a nose dive crash ,full throttle?
2.What do people think about building the cockpit area like the above picture (ie no cuts ) so as to provide rigidity while you're building and then" cut out" cockpit area later and add canopy etc
or using 360 to cut out shape first -there are some thin pieces(eg back of my cockpit is 2mm width as its only a 24.5 inch wingspan) this way which might be difficult to shape??
 

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Whit Armstrong

Elite member
Very helpful video

Couple of quick questions for discussion
1.Which formers are tripled -is it the ones near the wings for extra strength?
On my 109 I am also putting a triple one on the front one to provide extra strength up front in the event of a nose dive crash ,full throttle?
2.What do people think about building the cockpit area like the above picture (ie no cuts ) so as to provide rigidity while you're building and then" cut out" cockpit area later and add canopy etc
or using 360 to cut out shape first -there are some thin pieces(eg back of my cockpit is 2mm width as its only a 24.5 inch wingspan) this way which might be difficult to shape??

Your plane is too small to need triple formers. @MiniacRC 's P-47 used only single formers, and it worked great. For the cockpit, you shouldn't make any cuts in the skin. You probably wouldn't be able to make a scale cockpit, as your plane is too small and it would make it too weak. The best option is to have a solid foam cockpit with windows painted on, but if you have a really strong internal structure, a scale cockpit could work.

Some other things to note:

You'll want to cut away the shape of the cockpit before you thicken the skin if you decide to go that route. It gives it a more realistic shape. You also don't need all of those skins. At that scale, the skins are pretty tiny and all the formers needed to support them will add extra weight. If you need more detail, you can sand the plane to shape and then spray it with spackle.
 

Whit Armstrong

Elite member
This is AMAZING stuff, have to watch the videos carefully later :)

Well you have access to Inventor, and you can unwrap skins right in the application! I wish they wouldn't make such great software windows only! I guess I'll have to resort to my questionably legal method..

I can't wait to see what you're working on now, the P-47 and FW-190 were such beauties!
Be sure to check out the other videos in the MS P-40 thread. They contain lots of useful information.