Mountain Models Lucky Ace

[lonewolf7717]

After doing a search it doesn't appear as if FT forums have yet to establish a Lucky Ace thread. I am hoping there are more than just a few of you to have some experience with this model. Just ordered one, my first and it will so happen to be my first balsa build so I could use some help. Either way I will be doing my best to document the build. Till then.

 

[Craftydan]

ooooh . . . looks like a pretty stick! Looking forward to it!

 

[lonewolf7717]

http://www.mountainmodels.com/product_info.php?products_id=589

it is indeed Mr. Dan.....finally opted for MM craft after careful consideration of other options, such as the StevensAero Shaft400. I should be expecting delivery mid next week. To the other balsa builders...is there anything I should consider for build set up aside from the normal suggested tools and techniques....perhaps something you wish you had on your first build?

 

[xuzme720]

More room to build in? It always seems like I'm looking for something that is buried somewhere...

 

[lonewolf7717]

More room to build in? It always seems like I'm looking for something that is buried somewhere...

Sorta why I am prepping now. From what I have seen of other balsa builds they seem to take up twice the room of a similar sized foamboard build. I am an extremely messy builder, so much so i would be embarrassed to post pics on here and my build room is "off limits" at the house. Feeling a need for some organization and method, which balsa builds seem to provide.

 

[Billchuck]

A magnetic building board is wonderful. http://www.airfieldmodels.com/infor...lders/tools/magnetic_building_board/index.htm
I got a piece of thin steel sheet from a roofing company in town and glued it to a piece of 3/4" MDF to make the board. I built my own fixtures, though I'll probably buy some from that site in the future when I need more.

 

[bensgreentrain]

Hi, been building balsa 50+ years(off & on). Most important, start with a flat building board. Suggestion, closet door, The doors used for inside your house are all flat. Try and find a remodel or surpluse seller.

 

[Joker 53150]

The magnetic building boards look great, but all you really need for the Lucky ACE is a flat building surface. You can built almost the entire wing as a full assembly without a drop of glue and it'll hold together nicely. After you add glue simply add some weights to keep it flat on the building board and you're all set. BBs in a baggie work great for this. The fuselage is also easy to assemble without any special tools or methods.

My ACE has 102 flights and 13-1/2 hours of air-time on it from 2013, including hundreds of touch-n-go's. It's had some hard "landings" including a nose-dive into mud inches from a pond but always kept coming back for more. It is due for a bit of work, including conversion to trike from tail-dragger and a little extra repair work, but it is still ready to go at a moments notice.

 

[Joker 53150]

Also, the ACE is a very fun plane to fly as it is quite aerobatic with high surface throws. With low rates there is no problem bringing it in nice and smooth for a landing.

 

[lonewolf7717]

Joker, your Lucky Ace is the impetus behind all this. You had made a post in a unrelated thread regarding your affinity for the model and I had been wanting a stik for some time. Will be setting mine up as a tricycle. Lipo question though, what do you typically run in yours? I know 1000-1300mah is recommended but will the craft comfortably carry say a 1800?

 

[Joker 53150]

My battery of choice is usually 1300mAh, but I also run a 1500. It depends on what else I'm flying that day as I have two of each of those sizes and I might need one of those sizes for the other planes. With my setup the 1500 balances it out nicely, but the 1300 needs a pair of washers in the nose for the extra weight. The 1800 is possible, but you may have problems getting it through the battery hatch.

As you're building it, keep in mind that putting the elevator and rudder servos in the tail (like I did) can determine if you need nose weight or not for balance. The plane is designed for installing them at the tail or under the wing, a nice touch by MM. You'll be very impressed with how well it goes together. For me, the hardest part of the build was the battery hatch. I should have assembled it with TiteBond II (or similar slower setting glue) and then put it flat on a building board with some weight on top of it. This would make the top sheeting curve and keep the bottom flat. Mine wasn't curved enough so it doesn't fit quite right. Not a huge issue though.

The ACE is a great example of a "Stick", and probably one of the easiest-to-build balsa Sticks you could ever hope for. Heck, it's probably one of the easiest-to-build balsa planes you could find in general. Mine is the first balsa plane I ever built. I was afraid to fly it (I had very limited stick-time when it was completed) so I built and flew the MM Switchback to build some skills. When flying the ACE I found it was much easier to fly (with low rates) than I had expected. Please post updates as you build!

 

[lonewolf7717]

Received my Luck Ace kit today and so eager a simple unpackaging turned into a full on build immediately.....no wax paper, pins or wood glue on hand...oh well. Packaging is frugal yet clean and straightforward. Laser cuts are clean and 100% hassle free with the exception of the ply....it takes a sharp blade and holding mouth just right. Joker, I see what you were saying about the hatch, instructions advises using medium CA which I did but several small bits need to be held in alignment whilst adding slight arch. CA was too fast for me....no major mess ups but not the perfection I would like, slower setting glue would have given me some time to adjust. Tabs on the cradle and everything else thus far have been absolutely clean fits....gentle firm pressure pops accompanying pieces in place with no slop or alignment issues. I can also see what you mean by the design is self aligning....awesome. I will most likely stop tonight before i get too far ahead of myself....like i said it was supposed to just be an unboxing....i got sucked in. Will pick up some more building supplies tomorrow, clean up my work space some more to make room for wing build. BTW that fuse took all of 28 minutes to build to the point seen in pics. Once in a little further I may draw on some technicals from you guys. Thanks for the help in advance.

 

[Joker 53150]

Nice! It's amazing how you can take your time with this build and it still just flies together in minutes. The running joke is you can just pour glue into the box it came in, shake it, and a finished plane falls out.

 

[lonewolf7717]

Ok, experienced balsa builders ignore this comment....sort of a "NO DUH". I am very accustomed to the abrasive odors and characteristics of adhesives used in the RC hobby but speaking of CA specifically when it comes to balsa builds the exposure is far more prolonged than any "dab will do ya" foam application. For those considering their first balsa build I would strongly suggest if it will be a CA build rather than wood glue (i.e. Titebond) you get some active airflow going. Wafting in CA fumes for an hour or two will leave your sinuses very irritated and if a contact wearer your eyes "annoyed". It took me all of 30 minutes into project to set up fan blowing across project area to minimize abuse to olfactories. Take a break every once in awhile too, build in phases taking breaks to read instructions a few steps ahead perhaps....or jump on FT to update your progress . Some builders can develop an intolerance to CA otherwise known as CA allergies after years of prolonged exposure and we don't want that happening.

 

[lonewolf7717]

 

[lonewolf7717]

Wing, stabs and control surfaces are finished. I am amazed by how idiot proof this kit is, not only are there great step by steps but in majority of cases the individual pieces will only fit one way due to subtle differences in dove tails. Number of pieces that I have had to sand to achieve tight fit thus far....0. I am stumped by one thing though....Joker, to pick your brain do you remember a 1/8" alignment dowel that needs to be inserted on leading edge? I have turned my place upside down looking for this little piece but don't recall even seeing it in goodie bag. See pic of step I'm referencing and tell me if you can how I should proceed or how you did it.

 

[Joker 53150]

If you didn't have a 1/8" hardwood dowel in your kit I'd guess Brian forgot to put one in. It's a simple hardwood dowel a couple inches long that gets inserted into the leading edge of the wing. It goes into a corresponding hole in the wing saddle on the fuselage and locks the front of the wing in place. You could substitute the same size in carbon fiber if you have that on-hand. Otherwise a trip to the local hobby shop or home improvement store would work. Don't be tempted to use balsa or light ply sanded to shape, you need the dowel or CF. If you call Brian he'd probably just mail one out to you, but that would obviously take longer.

By the way, that dowel trick works GREAT and I've used it on other planes since then.

I know what you mean about the CA glue being an irritant. I don't use it much anymore and instead use Titebond II for just about everything. It obviously takes longer to dry, but I'm not in a huge hurry and it doesn't irritate my senses at all. I did my ACE with CA and came back with a small paintbrush and added some Titebond II to all the joints (not on the surfaces where covering will go) to strengthen everything up. It adds minimal weight and the planes hold together very well.

 

[earthsciteach]

I went to the Mountain Models site today and they do have some REALLY nice stuff for decent prices. The P-51 and L-4 models really caught my eye. And, that DLG is nicely priced, too! Ugh, last thing I need is another airplane, right now.

 

[Joker 53150]

I'm also eying up their DLG-50. It will be theirs or the $100 one from Hobby King.

 

[lonewolf7717]

I have some 2.5mm cf rod laying around. Little smaller than 1/8" but don't foresee that being much of an issue. Sort glad I skipped that step, making sanding LE in one continuous stroke easier. I guess after drilling my rod should only stick out 1/4" or so, just enough to grab mating hole on fuse. I would never expect a guy to ship me a 1"x1/8" dowel halfway cross the states. Talked to Brian over phone when I made order....very down to earth "gosh darn" sorta guy. I'm in accord so far as DLG-50 is concerned, was supposed to be my first balsa build but then got an Alula for Christmas that filled that role.