Musdangs first FTFC. Build-ruary 22

[Musdang]

Ok so first off, this is my first build-ruary (or however it’s pronounced). I was told I can’t technically do a “casual” version so, here I am. If I do something wrong PLEASE let me know. Sadly I can’t post my own pics or vids for some reason. I will try my best to fix it or explain my builds in as much detail as possible. This may go badly and be a major flop. But I’m hoping for the opposite. So Let’s do this!

FTFC 22: Build ruary by Musdang (Build Skill: 2.48 Pilot Skill: 3.64)

1: SB FT Simple Stick (Progress: Fuse done, awaiting wing and THE DARN WHEEL COLLARS I CANT FIND.)
2: SB FT Goblin (Progress: Wing, main fuse built, awaiting motor.)
3: SB FT 3D OR Some profile 3D plane (Progress: NONE)
4: Maybe the other option of 3 (Progress: NONE)

SB=Scratch Built.

 

[Musdang]

FT Simple Stick Scratch Build!
I wanted to build this the second I joined the FTCA in December. I started making the plans on January 31 and technically starting “ building” on the 1st.

I made the wing first. It’s my first symmetrical airfoil wing so it was a little bit harder but manageable. Unless your me of course. When I was glueing the bottom airfoil, I didn’t put enough pressure in the middle so the wing was SUPER wacky. So i re cut the wing, but started building the fuse first.

For some reason, the doublers were a little jagged, (Probably because I hadn’t changed my blade in awhile) but useable.
Then I glued the puh rod guides in. But wait! Here come a classic Musdang mistake. My push rods are too short! I was gutted. The soonest I could get longer ones was 3 days. Luckily the next day, i went to my dads barn to help him replace the brakes on his car. I just happened to look up and notice a roll of pushrod-like wire. He let me have the whole roll! It was perfect! (Foreshadowing…..) He also let me have his old z blenders. So i got the new push rods in but noticed that they where just a wee bit thicker than ft push rods. I thought it would be fine. I glued the top of the fuse on (that i had to recut 3 times!), and it all looked fine and dandy.

I glued on the tail feathers like normal. (Another small mistake I noticed was that I forgot to cut the control horn slot) Ok, Prepare yourselfs. Yet ANOTHER Musdang mistake! Can you believe it?!?
I forgot to check how much the push rods could move before i glued the top on. Turns out there’s too much friction on the push rods going through the guides because they can’t bend as good as the ft ones. (The guides aren’t straight. There’s a little angle in them)

So that’s my build so far. I know right, I’m crazy! Supposedly my longer push rods come tomorrow. I think I’m just going to put the servos in the back, (I think @The Hangar s stick is the same way) because I don’t feel like fiddling trying to the get new push rods in the guides with no access to them.

I’ll edit this post later when or if I make any more progress. For now, I’m making post #3 that will be edited once i finish cutting the parts out!

EDIT #2:
I got my pictures to work! (My email was sending itself the wrong file type) I just glued in the servos in the back.

It may look a little ugly, but I mean the whole plane probably will. (Well the original model was technically called the ugly stick) lol
Next is the power pod!

EDIT #3:

Power pod and landing gear wire done!

 

[Musdang]

Alright! Ft Goblin Scratch build!
Reason for build: I made one before but it didn’t see the light of day more than once.

Currently cutting out parts from plans I made on the 1st

Also, I forgot my table isn’t perfectly flat…… maybe spray paint can save me…..

Still cutting out parts after taking a break. Got a little side tracked with a sharpie! Lol

Finished sharpening!

Old wing servos into the new wing!

 

[Musdang]

Reserved for 3

 

[Musdang]

Reserved for 4

 

[Musdang]

Reserved for what not.

 

[FlamingRCAirplanes]

Reserved

 

[Musdang]

Reserved

No reserve

 

[FlamingRCAirplanes]

Reserve #2

 

[FlamingRCAirplanes]

Also, I always reserve posts in EVERYONES threads. In case I need it later.

 

[Ligbaer]

reserved

 

[Monte.C]

Get that photo posting issue fixed immediately. How can you continue without posting pics? Ridiculous.

 

[Musdang]

Does anyone think that a score in the nose of the goblin would make it easier to assemble? I’ve seen this done on a couple of other planes but didn’t know if it would be effective on a nose this small and tightly curved.

 

[Ligbaer]

Does anyone think that a score in the nose of the goblin would make it easier to assemble? I’ve seen this done on a couple of other planes but didn’t know if it would be effective on a nose this small and tightly curved. View attachment 218055

most likely

 

[FlamingRCAirplanes]

Yo

 

[Musdang]

Yo

Yo what?

 

[FlamingRCAirplanes]

Just sayin hi

 

[Paracodespoder]

Does anyone think that a score in the nose of the goblin would make it easier to assemble? I’ve seen this done on a couple of other planes but didn’t know if it would be effective on a nose this small and tightly curved. View attachment 218055

I think it would help if you don’t want to glue the nose in one go. I have done this on several models (recently in my sparrow) to give myself more time to get a better alignment without having to rush and glue it all at once.
And in the end product no one would ever know the difference if you did or not.

 

[Musdang]

I think it would help if you don’t want to glue the nose in one go. I have done this on several models (recently in my sparrow) to give myself more time to get a better alignment without having to rush and glue it all at once.
And in the end product no one would ever know the difference if you did or not.

Thanks! That’s what I was thinking.

 

[Monte.C]

Does anyone think that a score in the nose of the goblin would make it easier to assemble? I’ve seen this done on a couple of other planes but didn’t know if it would be effective on a nose this small and tightly curved. View attachment 218055

I've done this exactly, but not one score, several score cuts. Your score cut gives the foam a place to want to fold, which is what you don't want, you want a smooth curve. You've already removed the paper in that area. Based on what I'm looking at, you might try five score cuts, maybe seven, with the center one on the line shown on the plans. I might put them 7 or 8 or 9mm apart. Use your judgement - or even better, do a test on a scrap and use your judgement. That's what I did. All this will ease the curve nicely. Do your best to try not to reach the paper on the other side with your blade. If you do it might ruin the piece.