My first miniquad build

[RandomChaos]

Took the FPV gear off for the time being, and slapped the 5 inch props on for some acrobatic fun.

 

[RandomChaos]

Some updates on my first mini! Got in 3 different sets of 6030 props from ReadyMadeRC. The Nylon/Glass Gemfan props from them are MUCH better than the other Gemfans I tried. I broke them in a crash, so threw on some HQ Carbon Composite props, which I promptly broke thanks to not paying attention to which prop I was putting on which motor. The Carbon Composites break really easily in a crash, but are super stiff. Now I am running the 3rd and final set, the HQ Glass Fiber props, which look and feel just like the Gemfan ones. With the Gemfan props running $1.99 for a set of 4, I think I will stick with them for awhile.

I also had a friend give me a Micro MinimOSD. After a bit of googling, I found the OSD firmware that works with OpenPilot. It felt sluggish though, and I didn't like it compared to the MWOSD firmware. Now I have managed to flash cleanflight 1.9 onto the CC3D. That was a PAIN, and took multiple tries until it took, but all seems good with it now. A bit more of a learning curve to get CF setup vs the setup wizard built into OpeanPilot, but I have managed to get it flying on the stock PIDs, with the OSD functioning.

After tinkering around with the OSD running through my Xiaomi Yi, I decided to go ahead and try out my RunCam 600TVL from SC2000. Just waiting for a break in the weather to test fly it.

I am still running the heafty TS351 transmitter, trying to decide now on what 200mw transmitter I want to go with to replace it. Options are Aomway, TS5823, or any others I can find before my next paycheck comes in. Recommendations? Would like to keep it lightweight, 10g or less.

I am also looking at getting a PDB that has a pinout for the Naze32, and MicroOSD. It would help declutter the heck out of the wiring I have going on now, as well as reduce some weight. This will also mean switching from the CC3D to a Naze32 board. Better in the long run I think.



I was also caught by a camera lady over the weekend flying my electrohub, trying to get some video during the local Fly-in. Hopefully I can get the video from that edited and posted soon.

 

[Dodger]

For a soldering iron weller makes a pretty decent little soldering station that I've been using fairly reliably. It's a decent price for what it offers. otherwise your stuck with plug in pencil irons and expensive stations.

http://www.weller-toolsus.com/solde...wlc100-solder-station-40w-120v-w-st3-tip.html

I should be going through the rest of the post to learn more about that quad but i'm stuck on that soldering iron for whatever reason lol.

 

[Snarls]

Looks good. I laughed when I saw the wiring hanging off your goggles. I have the same set and also have to deal with the extra lengths and connectors, but the goggles work great!

 

[jipp]

heh, fun. even tho when you flew by the swimming pool i kept think.. i hope no problems happen right this second.
also thought, who would win pool, or props. hmm. hhe.
also in your first video, i kept seeing a humming bird pop up.. i guess the humm is quite the attraction agent for these little guys, i know they like mine too. even tho i only have a 1806 emax on my zmr.

i also will be using the same style goggles. i will be trying to figure out this fpv stuff on my next build in a month or two.. i figure around oct ill start it.. maybe sooner if doctors release me.
rock on.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...d+naz.TRS0&_nkw=zmr+pdb+cc3d+naze&_sacat=2562

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZMR-250-12mm-Spacer-Kit-/191594305153?hash=item2c9be91681

this is the one i bought from rob.. he lives in gilbert, az.. nice guy talked to him on the phone etc.. if my health was any better i would of gone to fly with him.. as he invited me..
chris,.

p,s

on ebay you can get a zmr pdb that has cc3d, and naze pins etc for around 15.00 that may be what you are looking for. also you may consider a zmr spacer kit.. the one i bought for 12.99 raises the two bottom plates to 12mm between, perfect for to clean up a build by putting stuff in there and is protected at the same time.. something to consider.

 

[RandomChaos]

For a soldering iron weller makes a pretty decent little soldering station that I've been using fairly reliably. It's a decent price for what it offers. otherwise your stuck with plug in pencil irons and expensive stations.

http://www.weller-toolsus.com/solde...wlc100-solder-station-40w-120v-w-st3-tip.html

I should be going through the rest of the post to learn more about that quad but i'm stuck on that soldering iron for whatever reason lol.

I had my eye on the Hakko 888 station. Back when I worked for Asurion, they used the Hakko 951 station, it was AMAZING. Wish I could afford that one! The Weller does look good too. What tip options does it have?

Looks good. I laughed when I saw the wiring hanging off your goggles. I have the same set and also have to deal with the extra lengths and connectors, but the goggles work great!

Yea, all those cables sure do make them heavy, but they work great for now. Headplay will probably be my next set of goggles. I've tried the Fatsharks, they work great, but I just cant see myself spending that much on them.

heh, fun. even tho when you flew by the swimming pool i kept think.. i hope no problems happen right this second.
also thought, who would win pool, or props. hmm. hhe.
also in your first video, i kept seeing a humming bird pop up.. i guess the humm is quite the attraction agent for these little guys, i know they like mine too. even tho i only have a 1806 emax on my zmr.

i also will be using the same style goggles. i will be trying to figure out this fpv stuff on my next build in a month or two.. i figure around oct ill start it.. maybe sooner if doctors release me.
rock on.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...d+naz.TRS0&_nkw=zmr+pdb+cc3d+naze&_sacat=2562

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZMR-250-12mm-Spacer-Kit-/191594305153?hash=item2c9be91681

this is the one i bought from rob.. he lives in gilbert, az.. nice guy talked to him on the phone etc.. if my health was any better i would of gone to fly with him.. as he invited me..
chris,.

p,s

on ebay you can get a zmr pdb that has cc3d, and naze pins etc for around 15.00 that may be what you are looking for. also you may consider a zmr spacer kit.. the one i bought for 12.99 raises the two bottom plates to 12mm between, perfect for to clean up a build by putting stuff in there and is protected at the same time.. something to consider.

Yea, after I flew and watched the video I thought to myself that I had gotten a bit close to the pool. Not really sure who would win though, that pool has a pretty tough outer liner!

That is the exact PDB I was looking at. I just wonder how well the 5V and 12V BECs work. Would be nice if it came with a built in current sensor too. I've thought about the spacers, they would not only give the quad a neat look and some color, but also allow me to fit the ESCs underneath and off the arms. Not sure how well that would work cooling wise, but would bring the weight more centralized, as well as free up space on the arm for some higher pitches props.



Back to tuning the PIDs in Cleanflight...

 

[jipp]

i originally was gonna put my esc under there but, i did not have a decent enough solder iron to try and strip the ESC to mount them.. since Emax ESC have there solder pads running down the middle.. i have since bought a good solder gun. so the next zmr frame i build i plan on
doing things different and the first will be putting the ESC under the bottom plate using the 12mm spacer set.

all i ended up doing was putting the PDB under there and running the LED.VST wires which did help clean it up a bit for random wires.

but yeah, lots of people have put there ESC there with out problems..

here is my first quad i built with the help of the guys on here.. i had zero experience with RC.. so i had to start from scratch.. you can see the spacer also make a nice spot for leds too.

chris.

 

[Craftydan]

I had my eye on the Hakko 888 station. Back when I worked for Asurion, they used the Hakko 951 station, it was AMAZING. Wish I could afford that one! The Weller does look good too. What tip options does it have?

because I can't resist an OT conversation about soldering irons . . .

YiHua 936:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19240__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_US_Warehouse_.html

Yes, a Chinese knockoff of an older Hakko, but a darn good one, and for ~$30 shipped for a TEMPURATURE controlled iron, there's just no reason why anyone who solders doesn't have a temperature controlled iron. Replace the tip -- it's rubbish -- but it takes Hakko tips, so buy a brand name Hakko tip and for less than $35 you're working with gear that competes well against $100+ setups.

 

[jipp]

lot of iron for 14.99.



chris.

 

[RandomChaos]

Thanks for the link Craftydan! $23 shipped from a US warehouse, not too bad. Will be nice to finally move up past this cheap solder iron.

 

[Dodger]

Great now i want to replace my iron ;.; ..... well just in case this manual describes the tips available for the weller. but for the price i may have a go at that Chinese knock off.

http://www.apexhandtools.com/onlinecatalog/Parts_Lists/WLC100_OI_PL.pdf

 

[RandomChaos]

I think I have the PIDs tuned in pretty good atm. The HQ Glass fill props are strong! Ive had maybe 5 crashes or mishaps with them, none broken yet . Really starting to get used to flying in Acro mode. Feels alot smoother than flying in Stab.

 

[RandomChaos]

Well, after breaking my last set of props, I decided it would be a good time to do a little "upgrading" to the ZRM. A quick trip to the Online Market, and now I have some new fancy stuff to put on.

ZMR250 PDB with integrated Naze32 and Micro MinimOSD connections. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281778128824
Naze32 Acro
UBad 200mw 5.8Ghz video transmitter
Load of GemFan props
RG402 and SMA Connectors to make my own FPV antennas
That cheap HobbyKing soldering station

So far, its going together really well. Everything is soldered up except the receiver. The video transmitter is attached to the bottom of the top plate, with the dip switches visible through a slot, and the antenna connection in the back middle hole that I enlarged.



I have left off the 12V regulator since I will only be running a 3S for now. If/when I do a 4S setup, I will add it on. The 5V regulator puts out a nice constant 5.10v at idle. Might tap the VBatt2 on the OSD into the 5v output at first to keep an eye on it and see how it does while flying.

 

[jipp]

i bought the same pdb. mine came with a extra thing which i can not remember the name of. hah for fpv.. OSD that is it.

i have no clue how to hook this thing up.. so please take pictures of how you solder it up etc.. it will help me and other sim sure.

chris.

 

[RandomChaos]

I can take a picture of the OSD for ya in a few. You can see the sockets soldered in place for the OSD in the picture above. The header pins solder to the OSD in an interesting manner.

 

[jipp]

that be cool. i miss understood. i have looked closer and you have the pdb bolted up to your frame. i did not notice the first time. damn that liquid tape heh.

im not sure if im gonna buy a naze32 or use my cc3d board i have already.. or maybe buy a sparky 2.. i guess ill figure that out next month,
chris.

 

[RandomChaos]

Not the best photo in the world, nor soldering job . I took some regular straight header pins, and carefully bent the short end 90 degrees. Be careful not to pull the pin through the plastic square too much as you bend it. Just use some regular straight headers through the holes. This should allow everything to line up with the board.

I ran short on header pins so had to improvise with some for my through holes, which is why only the Tx and Rx pins are there. Originally it had 90 degree bent pins, which were too long when straightened, so I removed the 90 degree bend header, then realized I was out of straight header pins .

I then soldered all the sockets in place on the PDB, plugged the OSD in with just the straight through hole pins, then slid the modified header pins into place, and soldered them to the OSD board. This way I knew that each of the pins would line up perfectly with the sockets on the PDB.

Not sure if this was the best method, but it works! Once I get some more straight header pins in the mail here in a few days, I wil be liquid taping the top of the OSD, but leave the LEDs uncovered. Trying to minimize the chance of shorting something out since I sometimes fly, and crash, in dewy grass.

 

[RandomChaos]

Made a discovery with the PDB last night. There appears to be a few places on the bottom side of it that the black paint has rubbed off, right where the arms set. Since my arms are carbon fiber, its causing the ground to flow through them. Figured this was kinda dangerous, so in the process of making up some thin plastic pieces to place between the arms and the PDB. Bought a cheap $1 plastic document folder. Thinking I might also make some side covers for the ZMR out of this, to help keep the grass out, and give it an even cleaner look.

 

[jipp]

i wonder if this is a normal issue with a full size pdb.. maybe i should axe the idea of using one..

chris.

 

[RandomChaos]

After using some liquid tape instead of the plastic folder idea, I was still getting a reading on my multimeter on one of the arms with the ground. Ended up finding one of the screws I uses to mount the motor was slightly longer than the others. Quick fix, and all checks out now. Just need to get that rg402 in so I can make an antenna and fly this thing.