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[Headbang]

Storage charge on lipos should be 33% to 50%. This will prevent them from gassing and puffing. Never leave a lipo 100% charged for more then a day or so, it shortens the life span of the battery significantly. I store mine in a metal tool box. I know they won't blow on there own. But it is peace of mind and a sturdy way to transport.

 

[CarolineTyler]

The FT foamboard won’t care about a little damp. You can also store the TT very easily on a picture hook. It’s art after all. I prefer a firewall that breaks before my prop or motor, hence cheap hobby ply vs printed.
The templates on the FT plans are there for you to use to cut your own firewall and horns. I set up my own laser files for both, then my son cuts them at school!
You could use the plans to run a laser cutter if you have one big enough, then it’s as good as a speedbuild kit.
I would still just mail order a TT, other shops have them, you order now and it’s there by Wednesday with everything ready to go.
Lipo doesn’t simultaneously combust. I store mine in a tool box in the bottom of a cupboard. You can have a Lipo bag if you want, I have used lipo for 5 years, never bothered with a bag. Charge in a ceramic bowl with a loose lid if you are concerned about fire. I linked you the charger I recommend earlier in the thread, it has a simple storage setting. The only thing to avoid is going below 3.3v per cell and leaving a Lipo plugged into a plane or put in a storage box when discharged. It wants to be left at 75% charged or more if possible.
If you want to give people internet points for helping use the like button. Most people here just like helping each other, it’s why FT is so awesome.
View attachment 123241

Art indeed!!!

 

[FDS]

It’s “Tate Foam” at yours!
Used my last slot for a Sportster.

 

[smiling albert]

Btw the shop tried to sell me this yesterday any thoughts
http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=26972

 

[CarolineTyler]

You would be better off with this from Hobbyking. It will take better care of your batteries. Options to balance and storage charge. Or this one to take you to 6S.

 

[FDS]

Big vote for the Accucell S60. Excellent charger, good value and easy to use. I have been recommending it for years, never had anyone come back to me with a problem.

 

[smiling albert]

Hi
Found this
https://ftforumx2.s3.amazonaws.com/2016/01/118461_a1bed770cd8ff55c8d24d5b5a983dff0.pdf
Printed it off-is that the actual size?

 

[smiling albert]

Or the one on page 13/19 of this?
Sorry to be a dummy!

https://s3.amazonaws.com/plans.flitetest.com/stonekap/FT-mini Tinytrainer-TILED-PLANS.pdf

 

[smiling albert]

Also do I need some little screws for the firewall/horns?
If so what size and do HK sell them?
Also am going to attempt to make my own firewall using the template but using tools not the laser cutter -whichever template (above is the correct one) -how accurate does it need to be?

 

[CarolineTyler]

Also do I need some little screws for the firewall/horns?
If so what size and do HK sell them?
Also am going to attempt to make my own firewall using the template but using tools not the laser cutter -whichever template (above is the correct one) -how accurate does it need to be?

I 3D print my firewalls now, the first I made was in lite-ply and I soon realised I hated making them
I use the bolts that come with the motors normally to attach them - for most motors you need M3 bolts and these can be picked up easily from many places (I use UK vendors on ebay and the like).
The holes are 16 and 19mm apart and you need to make sure the motor shaft and it's bolt or C-clip is free to rotate when mounted. The holes need to be fairly accurate but in ply there's a bit of 'wiggle' room.

 

[smiling albert]

Thanks
another qn-would laser cutting FT foamboard be dangerous-ie set it on fire?

 

[CarolineTyler]

Thanks
another qn-would laser cutting FT foamboard be dangerous-ie set it on fire?

I have thought about making my own laser engraver/cutter for ply/card/foamboard - the FliteTest kits are laser cut so I don't think the fire risk would is too great, however I don't think I could leave it alone - just in case

 

[jross]

No. That is how FT cuts their plane kits.

 

[smiling albert]

And another..
Was advised to get the sharpest scalpel I could lay my hands on
eg
https://www.londongraphics.co.uk/sw...MI4buSnZKi4AIV5b3tCh264gPBEAQYAyABEgLEPPD_BwE

-or is this good enough
https://www.wilko.com/wilko-autolock-snap-off-knife-18mm/p/0343410

 

[CarolineTyler]

And another..
Was advised to get the sharpest scalpel I could lay my hands on
eg
https://www.londongraphics.co.uk/sw...MI4buSnZKi4AIV5b3tCh264gPBEAQYAyABEgLEPPD_BwE

-or is this good enough
https://www.wilko.com/wilko-autolock-snap-off-knife-18mm/p/0343410

I find the snap off blades are great for the majority of cutting out and excellent for bevels but have some scalpels for the fine stuff.

 

[FDS]

You can use any decent hobby knife or even a bare Stanley blade. Initial sharpness is important but not as much as changing the blade. I usually get one mini sized cut out per blade. Cost is not really a factor, I never use the extendable knives for cutting out, since the blade fit is much sloppier than an Xacto type knife or a bare Stanley blade. Snap off knives are fine for cutting bevels but that’s about it.
Model shop should carry motor screws, most decent motors include mounting hardware, the FT power pack kit has all that in it and the drivers you need.

 

[smiling albert]

Template and plywood thickness is all on the plans. Any general purpose control horns will work, before the laser cut ones they used the push through two part plastic control horns, they might have those in the shop. Just don’t get really tall ones or the throws will be bigger than designed. Fine if you can tune them from the transmitter, but easier to have ones approaching the right height.
If you want an easy way of cutting out, use a little spray mount on the plans, stick them to the board then cut out, after that peel the plan paper off the board, take care not to remove the foamboard paper, most spray mount (not contact adhesive) is removable.
Thickness of the firewall is not critical, you will want 1.2mm music wire for the control wires in the TT. Mount the servos a bit further back than the marked position as it can come out a little nose heavy, I put them right at the back of the available space.
You should also get a few linkage stoppers for the aileron servos.
Message me if you help sourcing UK components, I have a few spares.

Hi FDS nice again thanks for the advice.
Have never heard of spray mount before,do you need to peel the plan paper off if you are going to paint it afterwards?
If not could Imjust use prit stick?

 

[smiling albert]

I have undercarriage on mine. I made it like the Scout one, cut a slot in the fuselage. You can make it like the Sportster undercarriage and use bands onto bbq skewers too.
View attachment 122472
That’s 2mm wire and 55mm wheels. Wire from Cornwall Model Boats, there’s a link in the UK sub forum for the wire, wheels are up to you, eBay, local store, make from pool noodle. I kept mine small to keep weight/drag down, it could do with being an inch longer in the legs but you can land beautifully on grass with it. I don’t ground take off, it’s easier to use a launch catapult or left hand throw with throttle set and use the right stick, bit of up elevator.
You will need to buy a simulator multi cable for the Flysky, do a search, I don’t use a sim so no idea what they look like!
Phoenix RC is still around, Free version here.
Lots of TT mods, again search the forum and browse.

Hi FDS
Are those wheels foam (seen them on HK) or plastic?
Thanks

 

[FDS]

Yes you do peel the plans off, as soon as you have cut them out and done the score cuts, BEFORE assseling anything. Pritt stick is water based, when you try to cut through it you get wrinkles if it’s not dry plus it can leave residue on the board and spreading it is a pain on large boards.
Spray mount is faster, better and only marginally more expensive given that one can of spray mount will do about 10 or 12 A1 sheets.
This one works great, easy removal up to 24 hrs after sticking, needs a little more care after that but will still come off.
Foam wheels are off eBay.
You can reply without quoting the whole previous post if you use the box at the bottom of the page, not the “reply button on the last post.

 

[bracesport]

If you get your head around the plans you may feel confident to mark up the foam board with measurements - I use this method quite satisfactorily and I find that it cements the plan in my head for next time! There are always swings and roundabouts, so go with the method that suits your skills!