Orange R615X DSMX receiver

D Cooper

New member
Hi! Its my first post here. I'm from Dubbo Australia. I built the FT3D speed build kit and it flies great. Unfortunately my fun stopped abruptly when at reasonable height, the motor and control surfaces stopped working. The model nose dived to the ground squashing the nose section and power pod. I moved the Orange R615X receiver from the power pod to the canopy and with one antenna poking out the top thinking it was a range problem. I performed a walking range test in my street and the receiver passed with no problems. I repaired the model and it flew well again. Unfortunately the same thing happened again, just as unpredictably as before with the plane stopping in mid air and diving into the ground. In both cases either the battery or receiver were ejected or disconnected so I couldn't veryify loss of signal by the red flashing light post crash. Distance was approx 100 metres both instances.
Has anyone else had a similar experience? Is there a trick to make the Orange receiver unconditionally reliable? The receiver appears to work well apart from this . I've ordered a genuine Spektrum one so will try my luck. Battery works well in other models so I know its not that. The ESC is the one provided in power pack C (BL Heli 30 amp) and is brand new as is the motor.
 

Tench745

Master member
It has been suggested in previous posts elsewhere that an ESC which gets too hot in flight can have the bec portion give out until it cools off enough, leading to what looks like loss of signal. Something to look at anyway.
 

foamtest

Toothpick glider kid
I would make sure that the ESC is getting enough airflow in the power pod, maybe try putting it on the bottom of the power pod so it is directly in the air stream.
 

sprzout

Knower of useless information
Mentor
The Emax ESCs can get fairly hot and shut down without proper airflow over them. If you watch the Sea Duck build, they actually work to make something of an air scoop that blows cool air across the ESCs in the nacelles.

If you follow the MiG-3 build as well, they recommend running the ESC under the power pod, where there's a hole that runs cool air over the ESC. Because of this, I think there's an issue with these ESCs overheating and potentially causing a loss of signal, and the receivers get a lot of the blame...

Now, I haven't built the FT3D, so I can't say whether that's the issue or not, but I'm pretty sure that's what caused failure on my Bushwacker a few weeks back, when I was flying it and it was 90F outside. I'm sure the ESC overheated and the BEC dropped...
 

D Cooper

New member
The Emax ESCs can get fairly hot and shut down without proper airflow over them. If you watch the Sea Duck build, they actually work to make something of an air scoop that blows cool air across the ESCs in the nacelles.

If you follow the MiG-3 build as well, they recommend running the ESC under the power pod, where there's a hole that runs cool air over the ESC. Because of this, I think there's an issue with these ESCs overheating and potentially causing a loss of signal, and the receivers get a lot of the blame...

Now, I haven't built the FT3D, so I can't say whether that's the issue or not, but I'm pretty sure that's what caused failure on my Bushwacker a few weeks back, when I was flying it and it was 90F outside. I'm sure the ESC overheated and the BEC dropped...
 

D Cooper

New member
Thanks Sprzout. I installed the vent hole as recommended by Aaron Bates and Josh in my original build. I can put my finger in there and feel the esc. Both crashes occurred on cool days. One at just above idle straight and level the whole flight and the other at near full throttle at the top of a loop. I just ran the motor on full throttle for 1 minute with my finger inside the vent on the esc and it didnt even get warm. I think to be safe, I will replace the esc . I think you have a good point re power dropping to the receiver. I will use this one in an aircraft with dihedral and capable of gliding should power cut off
 

D Cooper

New member
Just used one batterys worth running the motor at full power and down to 50 percent constant in a warm room. The esc is barely warm.
 

D Cooper

New member
Decided to purchase an esc with a ubec and higher output current on the 5v. This way if i have a dodgy servo pulling too much current it will be less likely to kill off the bec mid flight
 

Bricks

Master member
Just went thru the same scenario flying my Wargo 3D Yak have flown it a dozen times went well, then two consecutive flights went into failsafe ESC just decided to wet the bed was not running hot. Replaced it and everything back to normal..
 

D Cooper

New member
Thanks Bricks. Will give it a go. Spent hours this week repairing the damage to the ft3d. So replacing battery, receiver and esc and not taking any chances lol. Im sick of fixing it 🙂 Hope your Yak didnt get damaged
 

Bricks

Master member
Had to rebuild the motor mount, as the stock mount is only 1/16 ply wood to save weight, I upgraded it to 1/8 inch plywood. Installing it and making it was interesting as the way it is designed and placed in the plane.
 

D Cooper

New member
Had to rebuild the motor mount, as the stock mount is only 1/16 ply wood to save weight, I upgraded it to 1/8 inch plywood. Installing it and making it was interesting as the way it is designed and placed in the plane.
Well done. I hope it went well for you. I got a hobbyking 30 amp esc and 3amp switching ubec. I also replaced the orange receiver with a genuine spektrum ar series. It has an extension antenna for better diversity. Problem has now gone! Perfect reliability. Run full throttle most of the time with no dramas. Distance is no problem either. Just got to improve my rather lacking piloting skills lol