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Problem with orangerx 1W openlrs module

#1
Hi everyone. Ages ago I bought a orangeRX openlrs 1W module second hand. I had no idea what I was doing back then, so It got thrown into my box of parts for ages. Since then I've got good at fpv and wanting to give long range a shot. Pulled it out and tested it and it worked fine. I had no idea what firmware the previous owner was using on it, so decided it was a god idea to re-program it. After watching some tutorials thought it was going to be a piece of cake. I'm pretty familiar with arduino. So I download the code and files from this page.

https://github.com/openLRSng/openLRSng

The only changes I made to he code was un-comment "#define COMPILE_TX 1", and "#define BOARD_TYPE 2" to set it up with the orange module. I set the jumper on my FTDI to 3.3V, plugged it in the right way, and hit upload. everything went on it fine, and there was no problems with uploading. However now when I plug it into my radio and power it up it flashes the red warning light once and then does nothing. Tried holding the bind when powering it on and the same thing occurs.Tried re-flashing it and it lets me reprogram it, however does not fix the problem.

So I thought that the jumper on my ftdi could have played up and given it the wrong voltage. I verified the vcc pin and it was 3.4V with my multimeter.

My radio is also set to 8ch ppm. I have verified that there is a ppm signal reaching the module. There is also a frsky dht module tied to the ppm, but I dont think this should make a difference.

Not sure what the problem is. I don't think I've made any mistakes. Perhaps someone has a cue as what is going on, i certainty don't.

Thanks, David.
 
#4
I noticed you also posted on RCGroups.
That's the place to post.

But maybe you shouldn't have opened up an individual thread on your problem.
Nobody will ever see it.

Here's the thread you want to look at.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1782034&highlight=openlrsng
This is the monster LRSng thread that was started by kah.
Search this thread first to see if your issue has been addressed.
I'm sure the thread also goes into great detail on the compile and upload functionality.

If you can't find anything that addresses your particular problem...then I'd post your issue with the video at the end of this thread.
kah monitors this thread.
kah is really the originator and guru of OpenLRSng.

I watched your video.
I'm not familiar with this product.
But, does the "upload function" do the "firmware compile" as well as the "upload of the new firmware"?
After you uncomment the proper #define statements, the source code needs to be recompiled.
If you didn't recompile your changes, what you may be uploading is some old hex file that happens to be hanging around.

But as I say, I have no idea of the process.
It may be that the "upload functionality" combines the "compile" and the "firmware upload" into one shot.

PS. You said you were familiar with Arduino...and I'm pretty sure Arduino compiles and uploads as a single process.
This is not how most micro controller software environments work.
Most split "compile" and "load" a completely separate processes.
 
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#5
OK...I did some more digging.
Your video didn't show much of the screen...but I guess you are in the Arduino IDE environment for this upload.
Here is a extensive video on uploading these LRS transmitters and receivers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwMpgJKytKM
Hopefully, this video should help.
I did notice there was a dialog box where you could select compile...upload...or both.
He also has a lot of verbose modes you can set to help you see what is going on.
 
#7
Since you are getting a message that the program has been successfully flashed, that means that the firmware has not only flashed...but has been verified by reading the flashed memory back for comparison.
Most likely, that means your Atmel Microcontroller (ATMega328p?) is probably OK.

Be honest with yourself...LOL...
Are you sure at all times you had the FTDI board jumpered at 3.3 volts?????
If you ever connected up your FTDI board with a jumpered 5 volt power setting...then you have indeed fried the RF chip.

The RF modules you linked from EBAY look like exact duplicates.
Removing such a large module in one piece from the original board, will be problematic.
You may have to get in there with a Dremel and an abrasive disk and slice it where it's soldered at each end.
You may even have to slice the module between the individual solder pads.
Divide and conquer...but don't slice into the board below.
With the middle section removed...use a soldering hot air gun...or soldering iron with lots of solder braid.
Go slowly...you don't want too much heat to raise the copper footprints on the main board.

It doesn't look like Hobby King sells a naked board replacement for the plastic enclosure.

PS. makattack in the post above pointed to the chrome configuration application.
That app has a spectrum analyzer function.
That function should show if communication with the RF is working.
 
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#8
Since you are getting a message that the program has been successfully flashed, that means that the firmware has not only flashed...but has been verified by reading the flashed memory back for comparison.
Most likely, that means your Atmel Microcontroller (ATMega328p?) is probably OK.

Be honest with yourself...LOL...
Are you sure at all times you had the FTDI board jumpered at 3.3 volts?????
If you ever connected up your FTDI board with a jumpered 5 volt power setting...then you have indeed fried the RF chip.

The RF modules you linked from EBAY look like exact duplicates.
Removing such a large module in one piece from the original board, will be problematic.
You may have to get in there with a Dremel and an abrasive disk and slice it where it's soldered at each end.
You may even have to slice the module between the individual solder pads.
Divide and conquer...but don't slice into the board below.
With the middle section removed...use a soldering hot air gun...or soldering iron with lots of solder braid.
Go slowly...you don't want too much heat to raise the copper footprints on the main board.

It doesn't look like Hobby King sells a naked board replacement for the plastic enclosure.

PS. makattack in the post above pointed to the chrome configuration application.
That app has a spectrum analyzer function.
That function should show if communication with the RF is working.
Haha yea I'm sure it was at 3v3. If I had knownley set it to 5V, I would know what's wrong, and wouldn't be asking this question. Anyway It looks like there is a thin spacer between the RF and the board, hopefully it's not sticky tape, so I might be able to separate with a solder sucker, looks like the space is big enough I should be able to clear it, ill. Will give it my best shot, but yea if that doesn't work I could also get some chip quick, or fire up my old gas iron and have one for each hand to heat everything up. I'm not too bad at soldering, so pretty confident I will manage it (famous last words).

Going to try that app before I attack it. The whole module inst too expensive, so if that doesnt show what the problem is I will just end up getting a whole unit.

Thanks everyone for your'e help
 
#9
Managed to get it working again. Bad firmware. I just couldn't get the code from that page to work. Downloaded the chrome config and was going to use the analyser to see if it was working. Flashed the firmware from there and it worked fine. Not sure what's wrong with that other code, but thanks everyone for the help. Would have been a hole if I didn't try that.
 

makattack

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#10
Glad to hear it's working. Yeah, I wouldn't use the Arduino IDE for flashing if there were clients available that could flash pre-compiled versions, unless you wanted to customize or develop for the project.

About the only RC opensource component I still use the Arduino IDE to flash is MultiWii because there are no pre-compiled versions and all configuration involves editing their config.h file of constants.