Recommended parts for Power pod ????

[haga1981]

Hi to all. I will soon start building the power pod in order to continue with 3 (hopefully) swappable kit build (scratch)designs later on. In this respect, I would appreciate some recommendations in regards to the below essential parts to buy from HobbyKing and use in the power pod.

- Motor
- Esc
- Battery
- Wiring
- Motor-parts
- Propeller

I have done some research in the matter but the total volume of available choices is a little bit overwhelming so some assistance is needed if possible.

Ideally I would like to use the power pod for all 3 designs which are:

- FT SPITFIRE
- BABY BLENDER
- FT SIMPLE STORCH

Therefore the motor-esc-propeller combo would need to be sufficient for all 3.

So, if you can recommend some parts with the above specifications in mind it would be great. I am looking for the best cost-effective/good quality/ok for the job options.

Many many thanks in advance!

 

[TEAJR66]

Welcome to the forums.

Here is the recommended parts list for the Baby Blender.
•Motor (Option 1) - NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w
•Motor (Option 2) - Suppo 2208/14 1450kv Brushless Motor (Park 370 equiv.)
•Servos (Option 1) - Hextronic 9 Gram Servo
•Servos (Option 2) - Suppo SP-90 9g Micro Servo
•ESC (Option 1) - TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller
•ESC (Option 2) - Suppo 18A Brushless ESC
•Battery - Turnigy 1300mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack
•Prop - APC-style Electric Propeller - 8x4E

This is the Storch recommended electronics. These would make for two very different pods. The Blender Electronics would be a little low in power on the storch and the Storch Electronics would be a bit beefy for the Spit or Blender.
•Flite Test Complete Electronics Power Pack Solution
•Altitude Hobbies Complete Electronics Power Pack Solution
•Lazertoyz Complete Electronics Power Pack Solution
•Motor (Option 1) - Suppo 2217/7 1200kv Brushless Motor (Park 425 equivelant)
•Motor (Option 2) - hexTronik DT750 Brushless Outrunner 750kv - (be sure to buy the optional hardware kit for the prop shaft)
•4 Servos (Option 1) - Hextronic 9 Gram Servo
•4 Servos (Option 2) - Suppo SP-90 9g Micro Servo
•ESC (Option 1) - TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller
•ESC (Option 2) - Suppo 18A Brushless ESC
•Battery (Option 1) - Turnigy 1800mAh 3s 20C Lipo Pack
•Battery (Option 2) - Turnigy 2200mAh 3s 20C Lipo Pack
•Prop (Option 1) - Slow Fly 10x4.7 prop

Here is the Spitfire recommend electronics. You will see that this pod would work for either the Spit or the Blender. The battery being the only real difference. The 2200mah battery would be I bit on the heavy side for the Blender. The Spit would fly fine on the 1300mah battery.
•Motor (Option 1) - NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w
•Motor (Option 2) - Suppo 2208/14 1450kv Brushless Motor (Park 370 equiv.)
•4 Servos (Option 1) - Hextronic 9 Gram Servo
•4 Servos (Option 2) - Suppo SP-90 9g Micro Servo
•ESC (Option 1) - TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller
•ESC (Option 2) - Suppo 18A Brushless ESC
•Battery - Turnigy 2200 mAH 20c
•Prop - APC-style Electric Propeller - 8x4E

You can see that it would be difficult to run those three airframes on the same pod. Not impossible, but you would sacrifice some performance on two of the planes by going with just one of the three power pods.

 

[Barron.Barnett]

Welcome to the forums.

Here is the recommended parts list for the Baby Blender.
•Motor (Option 1) - NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w
•Motor (Option 2) - Suppo 2208/14 1450kv Brushless Motor (Park 370 equiv.)
•Servos (Option 1) - Hextronic 9 Gram Servo
•Servos (Option 2) - Suppo SP-90 9g Micro Servo
•ESC (Option 1) - TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller
•ESC (Option 2) - Suppo 18A Brushless ESC
•Battery - Turnigy 1300mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack
•Prop - APC-style Electric Propeller - 8x4E

This is the Storch recommended electronics. These would make for two very different pods. The Blender Electronics would be a little low in power on the storch and the Storch Electronics would be a bit beefy for the Spit or Blender.
•Flite Test Complete Electronics Power Pack Solution
•Altitude Hobbies Complete Electronics Power Pack Solution
•Lazertoyz Complete Electronics Power Pack Solution
•Motor (Option 1) - Suppo 2217/7 1200kv Brushless Motor (Park 425 equivelant)
•Motor (Option 2) - hexTronik DT750 Brushless Outrunner 750kv - (be sure to buy the optional hardware kit for the prop shaft)
•4 Servos (Option 1) - Hextronic 9 Gram Servo
•4 Servos (Option 2) - Suppo SP-90 9g Micro Servo
•ESC (Option 1) - TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller
•ESC (Option 2) - Suppo 18A Brushless ESC
•Battery (Option 1) - Turnigy 1800mAh 3s 20C Lipo Pack
•Battery (Option 2) - Turnigy 2200mAh 3s 20C Lipo Pack
•Prop (Option 1) - Slow Fly 10x4.7 prop

Here is the Spitfire recommend electronics. You will see that this pod would work for either the Spit or the Blender. The battery being the only real difference. The 2200mah battery would be I bit on the heavy side for the Blender. The Spit would fly fine on the 1300mah battery.
•Motor (Option 1) - NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w
•Motor (Option 2) - Suppo 2208/14 1450kv Brushless Motor (Park 370 equiv.)
•4 Servos (Option 1) - Hextronic 9 Gram Servo
•4 Servos (Option 2) - Suppo SP-90 9g Micro Servo
•ESC (Option 1) - TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller
•ESC (Option 2) - Suppo 18A Brushless ESC
•Battery - Turnigy 2200 mAH 20c
•Prop - APC-style Electric Propeller - 8x4E

You can see that it would be difficult to run those three airframes on the same pod. Not impossible, but you would sacrifice some performance on two of the planes by going with just one of the three power pods.

Actually it would be fairly easy. Notice all 3 suggest the Turing 25amp ESC, Servo's don't matter they're stuck in the airframe. Battery, so what they're not glued into the airframe, you can have different sizes depending on which plane you're flying.

All that really leaves is the motor. Note The Baby Blender and the Spitfire both share Option 1 on motors, that leaves the Storch as the odd man out. Except note the 2217/7 is also a 1200kv motor. So it really comes down to the prop it's swinging. The Storch recommended set is a 10x4.7, which with their recommended motor is 33oz of thrust. Not sure of the NTM performance curve since I can't find a sheet.

What you could do is build everything using the recommended parts for the Spitfire and Baby Blender. On the Storch you will be a little under powered however you could run it with a 4s instead of a 3s, (cut back your capacity a little bit so you'll have a shorter flight time but should be in the same general weight) and you should have the same overall responsiveness. If you're mainly using the Storch as a slow flyer and not trying to do things like hover, etc., there shouldn't be a problem. You could also swap the prop for a 10x4.7, just verify everything is safe and you're not over power with a watt meter with your ESC and motor selection.

Also take a look at the parts list of the Power Pack C and try to mimic it. Note that all three when paired with a power pack, pair with the C.

 

[haga1981]

Thanks for the replies so far. I guessed as much, at least apparently the Storch seems to be the heaviest of the 3 therefore if a motor suitable for the other 2 was chosen it would make the storch a little bit on the under powered side. However, being a complete newbie with no experience whatsoever apart from many hours on the simulator, I will definitely use the Storch as a slow flyer/trainer. That is why I was thinking of starting with that one, and then perhaps the Spit and lastly the Blender.

So, if I went for a 1400-ish KV motor and buy both 10x4.7 and 8x4E propellers would I be ok? What you say about the battery makes sense, 2 different ones could be used and the ESC is the same.

 

[Barron.Barnett]

Yes, you could use the two different batteries on the same ESC (depending on the ESC rating). The recommended Turnigy is rated for 3s and 4s so it should be good if that's what you get. Just read the ratings on the parts. It should be noted that your motor should be rated for 4s as well.

A note on motors, I'd stick down around the 1200kv range since the bigger 10x4.7's are going to need more torque to spin. You can run them up in the 1400kv range with the right motor but they'll consume more power. If you get a 1400 kv motor, make sure to check the ratings and see what the current draw is on a 10x4.7 and that your ESC is big enough to support it. Ideally you'd set this all up on your bench and actually measure everything and make sure it's all within limits. The extra 200kv difference may not mean much though depending on the motor.

If you're mainly going to use the Storch as a trainer you should be able to stick with 3s batteries for everything and life should be good.

 

[TEAJR66]

Haga1981,

What is your RC Flying experience level?

I like the idea of emulating the Power Pack C. If you are set on ordering from Hobby King, it will be hard to find a motor with the same specs. The NTM 28-26A comes in a couple different kv ratings. The 1200kv will not handle the 10x4.7 prop that the storch recommends. There is an 1100kv That swings a 9x6 prop very nicely. I have used both motors and like the 9x6 on the 1100kv and an 8x4 on the 1200kv. I prefer the short shaft version of those motors and order the accessory pack with each motor (X mount and Prop Adapter).

If you order from one of the folks that sell the electronics packages, I like the Lazertoyz site. The motors they have sold me fit the application for which they were intended very well. The way to make it work for you would be to start with the storch. Learn to fly. Then move to the spit. You will be more prepared for the handful that the spit would be on the same power setup that flew the storch. You could even prop down when you swap airframes. I have not flown the Baby Blender. My guess would be that it would be the squirrliest of the three, and should be the third one you attempt to fly.

Battery being the next thing to figure out. If you start with the storch and move to the spit, a 2200mah, 3s, 20c will serve you fine. You will probably want a smaller battery 1300-1800mah when you move to the baby blender. If you really get into the hobby, that wont be an issue as you will eventually own several different capacity and cell counts.

A watt meter will help you immensely. As you play with prop sizes and cell counts, you can tweak components to work well together without exceeding any of the ratings. Overloading the motor with a large prop can burn the motor, or ESC. Maybe the motor and ESC can handle it but the draw on the battery is too high. Either way, a watt meter will help you prevent damage and get the most out of your electronics.

Is there a club near you? How about other Flite Test followers? Let us know how this all works out for you.

 

[TEAJR66]

I will order a Power Pack C soon. Just to have one on hand and use through my different FT Planes. Then I will be able to give an honest opinion on that power setup.

Power Pack C, the Storch, and a 200mah battery look like a pretty good way to start out.