Quick update: I have messed with the landing gear for to long. I can't seem to catch a break with the retracts. I received the retracts from mountain models over the weekend and tried to get them to work. I ran into 2 problems. First the servo I have I think it to tall for the wings. These wings seem to be very thin or maybe I am just getting the wrong electronics. Second when I did have the servo in the gears keep binding up an not working properly. I think I am going to abandon the retract idea and go with the fixed gear. Hopefully will have more of an update with pictures soon.
Scale Build Off - Mountain Models P-51 Build
- Thread starter Noob
- Start date
Servo-powered retracts seem to be a real headache, trying to get all the linkages working properly. That said, I may be trying them on my build-off plane! 
Turbojoe
Elite member
Mechanical retracts CAN be a real nightmare to setup UNTIL you get them just right. Then they're really sweet. I've only done a few mechanical retracts but managed to teach even myself a few new cuss words in the process. I built the prototype MM Firestorm and the retracts went pretty smooth in that bird. The wing is much roomier than the Mustang though. The Mustang absolutely HAS to have retracts or it just won't look right in the air. Figure out a servo size you need and I'm sure I can fix you up with something.
I was planning to either get the Mustang kit or whatever new kit Brian releases but just about two hours ago I fell into a deal I couldn't pass up on another helicopter so there goes the new kit money or I'd just go ahead and order a Mustang to build along with you. Hmm, I do have PayPal credit.... Nope. Must...show....restraint......
Joe
I built the prototype MM Firestorm and the retracts went pretty smooth in that bird. The wing is much roomier than the Mustang though. The Mustang absolutely HAS to have retracts or it just won't look right in the air. Figure out a servo size you need and I'm sure I can fix you up with something. I was planning to either get the Mustang kit or whatever new kit Brian releases but just about two hours ago I fell into a deal I couldn't pass up on another helicopter so there goes the new kit money or I'd just go ahead and order a Mustang to build along with you. Hmm, I do have PayPal credit.... Nope. Must...show....restraint......
Joe
Turbojoe
Elite member
Now THAT'S scary!
I'll likely not order the kit this payday. Maybe the next if I get some more overtime. Doing my very best to become 100% debt free and I put every spare penny toward that goal so I hate to use credit for anything. I only allow about $50 per month MAX for R/C and have to "save up" for a while by not wasting it if there's something I really want. It's very tough but rewarding. I'm paying things off way early. My FICO score is now 814!
I've gotta quit buying helicopters though! 8 now and I can't fly any of 'em worth a damn!
Joe
LOL! Post like that is why I love this community so much.
I think my big problem is that I am super cheap. I know Mountain Models recommends the HS-55 servos. But I look at the price and then look at hobbyking and then look at the servos I have. I tried to use a 9gr. servo that I had laying around from one of my flight test planes that I crashed. It was to tall to fit though. I know I should just bite the bullet and buy the servo that will work.
Also I am having a hard time getting the Z bends correct. I currently use a pair of needle nose pliers to make the Z bends. I don't exactly get them very tight and my placement is not always the best. I have seen the Z bend tool in some videos, do any of you have any experience with the tool? Is it worth it for me to get one?
I think my big problem is that I am super cheap. I know Mountain Models recommends the HS-55 servos. But I look at the price and then look at hobbyking and then look at the servos I have. I tried to use a 9gr. servo that I had laying around from one of my flight test planes that I crashed. It was to tall to fit though. I know I should just bite the bullet and buy the servo that will work.
Also I am having a hard time getting the Z bends correct. I currently use a pair of needle nose pliers to make the Z bends. I don't exactly get them very tight and my placement is not always the best. I have seen the Z bend tool in some videos, do any of you have any experience with the tool? Is it worth it for me to get one?
I had a Z bend tool once. It was actually really nice. Then I loaned it to someone (I think). Can't recall who, though. LOL!
Linkage stoppers are nice, too.
Linkage stoppers are nice, too.
Turbojoe
Elite member
Decide what size will work for you. HS-55, HS-56 etc. I want to see you really enjoy this kit (plus I'll learn for when I get mine) I'll send you whatever servo you need. I have a problem getting to USPS before they close and can usually only ship on Saturday though. I have a few of the el cheapo HK servos too. They work but suck up a lot of power. I much prefer the quality of Hitec so that's what I'll send..
I have a Z-bender and feel it is worth every penny and then some. I have done bends in the past using needle nose pliers but just couldn't get them tight enough to be happy. The Z-Bender is a very worthwhile tool. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL475&P=7
Joe
I have a few of the el cheapo HK servos too. They work but suck up a lot of power. I much prefer the quality of Hitec so that's what I'll send.. I have a Z-bender and feel it is worth every penny and then some. I have done bends in the past using needle nose pliers but just couldn't get them tight enough to be happy. The Z-Bender is a very worthwhile tool. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL475&P=7
Joe
I have the Hobby King version of that Z bender and it works very well, highly recommended.
Turbojoe
Elite member
P.M. me (don't post) your name and address. I'll do my best to get it (and a few other servos) out early but it will most likely be Saturday. What else do you need that will fit in a small padded envelope? I've got a ton of stuff and it'll make me really happy to help someone achieve build success. I had a LOT of help in my early days of R/C. Paying it forward to help someone get through an issue is without question the most rewarding part of this hobby.
Joe
Joe
Turbojoe
Elite member
OK, I'm on a roll now. What else do you need? Battery connectors? Wire? Wheel collars? I've already stuffed the envelope with servos. May have to use a box now. I'm actually having fun! Whatever I send you if you find that you have no use for it simply pay it forward to the next guy you find that can put it to good use. If you can use it for your next build then just hang onto it. I expect no payment whatsoever.
Joe
Whatever I send you if you find that you have no use for it simply pay it forward to the next guy you find that can put it to good use. If you can use it for your next build then just hang onto it. I expect no payment whatsoever.Joe
I can't really think of anything else that I need right now. My next build is going to be the Mountain Models EVA bipe. I also got that kit for Christmas and have not started it yet. I want to finish the first plane before starting a second one. I am for sure hooked on the balsa builds! I will be sure to pay it forward when the opportunity arises.
Turbojoe
Elite member
I've answered your P.M.
The EVA Bipe! I recently dusted mine off and scratch built new rounded (less 3D) tail feathers based on enlarged SwitchBack parts for her. I have so many planes waiting for maiden or re-maiden but this one is high on the list. The EVA Bipe is an awesome flyer as long as you keep a tick of throttle on during final approach. I still have the trike geared EVA Sport that is my all around favorite but the EVA bipe is a sweetheart that gets 2nd billing. You'll LOVE that bird! Just make sure you keep the wings FLAT as you glue the sheeting in place.
Joe
The EVA Bipe! I recently dusted mine off and scratch built new rounded (less 3D) tail feathers based on enlarged SwitchBack parts for her. I have so many planes waiting for maiden or re-maiden but this one is high on the list. The EVA Bipe is an awesome flyer as long as you keep a tick of throttle on during final approach. I still have the trike geared EVA Sport that is my all around favorite but the EVA bipe is a sweetheart that gets 2nd billing. You'll LOVE that bird! Just make sure you keep the wings FLAT as you glue the sheeting in place.
Joe
You know, mechanical retracts have always been a nightmare for everyone. The e-tracts do make life easier but they rarely retrofit well on a model designed for mechanicals. Once set right they are far more reliable than pneumatics. Keep the build quality up! I'm loving it and following with interest.
PHerder
Member
Joe (and anyone who has a Z bender pliers)... Do any of them bent a really narrow place that goes on the control arm? My version crimps ~ a 1/8" flat (3.25mm) which is fine for larger planes but I am also building small indoor planes that 1/8" is pretty sloppy on the control arms.
TIA.
The Hobby King version does not do a tighter bend - just the "regular" size.
Turbojoe
Elite member
My Z-benders do about a 1/8" area as well. I don't know that you'll be able to get much smaller than that. If you need it REALLY tight then I'd just give the wire a 90 degree bend and use these: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPJY3&P=7
Joe
Joe
My adventures with retracts continues. So thanks to Turbojoe I now have a servo that is the correct size. I spent several hours last night installing them and trying to get it to work. I even tried switching servos. I think I have everything installed correctly and it does not seem to be binding anywhere. However, when I click the switch for the retracts the gear will only go about half way or less. Almost as if the servo does not have enough strength to pull it all the way up or push it all the way down. I can move the gear easily by hand but once I installed the gear into the frame they almost seem way more stiff. Any suggestions to allow the gears to move better so that the servo can operate it completely?
The mechanical gear I've worked with were very stiff in operation until I took them apart and did some light sanding (typical Chinese "quality"). Then they were able to move freely while still locking in the down position properly. It was a night & day difference between the sanded and un-sanded versions.
No idea if this is what you're experiencing or not, just throwing it out there...!
No idea if this is what you're experiencing or not, just throwing it out there...!
Similar threads
