Tissue?

EAS

Member
Because I haven't built anything in 25 years, I thought I'd use tissue because I did very well with it those many years ago. I decided I'd try sig nitrate dope, specifically so I could use spray paint on it afterwards. There's very little instruction anywhere. I guess 'cause nobody or few are using tissue anymore.

I built this small section of test wing to try it out.

tissue-flat.jpg


Now, as seen in the oblique view, it's pretty bad. Unacceptable. Shrink? No, it got worse with more coats. I can't do this to my wings.

tissue-oblique.jpg


I've got Butyrate Dope coming, which I had very good results with 25 years ago. Maybe it's because I haven't done this in a long time, but if I can't get right with the Butyrate Dope....I'm going to have to look at the monokote and tools. If I am poor at tissue, out of practice, I'm not sure I could do any better with monokote and I think it'd be much harder to get off the model if I do badly. However, I won't do any of it until I can get this section of wing right.

Any advice or opinion is welcome.
 

Matthewdupreez

Legendary member
Because I haven't built anything in 25 years, I thought I'd use tissue because I did very well with it those many years ago. I decided I'd try sig nitrate dope, specifically so I could use spray paint on it afterwards. There's very little instruction anywhere. I guess 'cause nobody or few are using tissue anymore.

I built this small section of test wing to try it out.

tissue-flat.jpg


Now, as seen in the oblique view, it's pretty bad. Unacceptable. Shrink? No, it got worse with more coats. I can't do this to my wings.

tissue-oblique.jpg


I've got Butyrate Dope coming, which I had very good results with 25 years ago. Maybe it's because I haven't done this in a long time, but if I can't get right with the Butyrate Dope....I'm going to have to look at the monokote and tools. If I am poor at tissue, out of practice, I'm not sure I could do any better with monokote and I think it'd be much harder to get off the model if I do badly. However, I won't do any of it until I can get this section of wing right.

Any advice or opinion is welcome.
From what I've seen, monokote is easier to use than tissue...
Although I've never done either ☺️
 

EAS

Member
Maybe a standard clothes iron would also work....

It did finally, fully dry a bit better. Maybe I'll get it with butyrate and a little practice. They're saying sealing iron only maybe, will be imported in November...but not for sure. If I do get good results with butyrate, I probably won't wait.
 

Tench745

Master member
What tissue are you using? I've heard that good tissue applied wet doesn't really need a shrinking dope.
I can't speak from experience, as I've only ever used cheap tissue and either Krylon clear coat or water-based polyurethane to seal it.

When Hobbico went out of business in 2018 and various parts of the business were bought up, the supply chain was broken. Covering irons have been hard to get ever since. They're feeling it in the full scale aviation world too because covering irons are great for adding pinking tapes when covering real airplanes.
Anyone you could borrow an iron from?
 

cyclone3350

Master member
There R videos that show the use of glue sticks to apply tissue. This has a high tack so U can stretch in on very tight before water and dope shrinkage. It has been a very long time, but for silkspan, I think I used 3m permanent clear glue sticks. This allowed me to put it on with the silkspan damp. It has a super high tack and the damp silkspan won't soften the glue and pull back during shrink drying. I think I also used thinned dope over the edges after applying with the glue stick. To damp, I spray mist the silkspan using a travel size hairspray pump with water. For shrinking, I use the pump with a 50/50 water /rubbing alcohol. Like I said, it has been a long time and I am sure I am missing some details.
 

EAS

Member
What tissue are you using? I've heard that good tissue applied wet doesn't really need a shrinking dope.
I can't speak from experience, as I've only ever used cheap tissue and either Krylon clear coat or water-based polyurethane to seal it.

When Hobbico went out of business in 2018 and various parts of the business were bought up, the supply chain was broken. Covering irons have been hard to get ever since. They're feeling it in the full scale aviation world too because covering irons are great for adding pinking tapes when covering real airplanes.
Anyone you could borrow an iron from?


The tissue is sig silkspan. I stopped lending tools many years ago, and of course, that means I don't borrow them either. It's a bad idea that always leads to problems.
 

EAS

Member
There R videos that show the use of glue sticks to apply tissue. This has a high tack so U can stretch in on very tight before water and dope shrinkage. It has been a very long time, but for silkspan, I think I used 3m permanent clear glue sticks. This allowed me to put it on with the silkspan damp. It has a super high tack and the damp silkspan won't soften the glue and pull back during shrink drying. I think I also used thinned dope over the edges after applying with the glue stick. To damp, I spray mist the silkspan using a travel size hairspray pump with water. For shrinking, I use the pump with a 50/50 water /rubbing alcohol. Like I said, it has been a long time and I am sure I am missing some details.

I'll check for vids, but I only use my phone as a hotspot for my computers.... meaning I have limited data. So far, I haven't found much. Not many people using tissue anymore.
 

cyclone3350

Master member
I see that U R using Sig silkspan. I would stay with that and test try it with the 3m glue stick. After U put it on dampened, go around the edges with the dope before it dries. U can do some more stretch pulling when doping the edges. I have a club member that puts his silkspan in a pan of water and then blots out the excess water by pressing it flat in between to layers of paper towels. I can't remember if I used the red or silver. It was one of these two.
 

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EAS

Member
I see that U R using Sig silkspan. I would stay with that and test try it with the 3m glue stick. After U put it on dampened, go around the edges with the dope before it dries. U can do some more stretch pulling when doping the edges. I have a club member that puts his silkspan in a pan of water and then blots out the excess water by pressing it flat in between to layers of paper towels. I can't remember if I used the red or silver. It was one of these two.

Thanks for the info, I'll look into the glue and wet tissue approach.

You can see when the wing section completely dried it was better, but....it'll take some practice. Some one provided me with a link to a hanger 9 iron. I just purchased it, but this practice will help me no matter what covering I decided on. Now I'll sand this one off and try the Butyrate Dope when it gets here in a couple days.

tissue-dried.jpg
 

EAS

Member
I think I am going to have to make another small wing section....tapered, swept. Try the monokote before I make a final decision.
 

cyclone3350

Master member
TBH.I have only done about a dozen planes in iron on plastic over many years. I have used Econokote, Monokote, Ultracote and Parklite. Parklite was the only one that gave me a little bit of a hard time. The rest seemed to work about the same. Follow the recommended heat settings for getting it to glue the frame. Of those who do a fair amount of iron on, I seem to hear that Ultracote is the preferred the product.
 
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