• This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn more.

Trinom's tricopter

Trinom

Crazy electrician
#1
During December I decided to build my own tricopter. My big inspiration were tons of FPV videos on youtube. Then I've found David's webpages with step by step guide and many useful informations.
I set the package from HobbyKing free of customs post 30th of December, then I slowly built it almost whole next week. Hopefully I have ironmonger's shop 15 minutes from home so it wasn't a problem to go there two times a day when I've found that I forget to buy something.
The build began with few sketches of yaw mechanism in SolidWorks, which I improved later.


Then I brought theory into practice.



*

And finally assembled all parts together.



* that red insulation tape is temporary mark of tail arm.

I used few different parts - big heavy duty metal gear servo for yaw mechanism, 4 Ah 3S Li-Pol battery and U shaped aluminium profiles 12x12 mm. The wooden square profile with 10 mm side isn't available here. I wanted 10x10 aluminum U profiles, but they were sold out at that moment, so I've bought 12x12 mm.
This caused few other small problems like M3x16 screws which became too short.

When it was completely built I brought it to the field and wanted to try a short test flight and set the gyro gains. This try ended after couple minutes with a broken prop caused by motor which jumped of the base (yes, I have to use thread-lock glue). Unfortunately I didn't have spare prop at the field so I went back home. Since that day I didn't have any chance to try it again, because of the strong winds.
I'm learning on simulator and I hope the next flight will be more successful :).
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
#2
I notice a couple of things:

Your render is awesome!
You're using 72MHz receiver.
Your tail servo could stand up like David's V2.5 to have a better airflow.
 

Trinom

Crazy electrician
#3
Thanks.
It isn't 72 MHz, it's 35 MHz (and therefore the antenna lead is one meter long).
Tail servo can't stay, because it's too strong. It can lead to zip tie crack and crash. Even now it's quite a risk. I think it isn't so big to affect the air flow.
 

colorex

Rotor Riot!
Mentor
#4
Thanks.
It isn't 72 MHz, it's 35 MHz (and therefore the antenna lead is one meter long).
Tail servo can't stay, because it's too strong. It can lead to zip tie crack and crash. Even now it's quite a risk. I think it isn't so big to affect the air flow.
You're welcome!
I didn't know 35 MHz was longer, but when I think about it, of course it should be. The length of the antenna is proportional to the wavelength of the frequency used.

So the servo is too strong? Like too much travel? or too fast causing too much G's on the motor?
 

Trinom

Crazy electrician
#7
As I wrote, it took me four or five days of slow building. I wasn't hurry, because there was a bad weather outside.
 

Burg

Never catch a multirotor
#8
Very nice build Trinom !

I like the fiber glass plates, can I order a few sets with you ?? :)
I use 12x12mm arms as well (wood).

Standing by to see flight vid !

P.S. are you afraid that the lipo gets cold .. haha !
 

Trinom

Crazy electrician
#9
I'm not really sure, what did you think with your first question. Do you want DXF files? It's modified RCexplorer's design. It is a bit longer and adjusted to accommodate 12mm U profile. The rest is the same. Here is 300 dpi export for plotter.

I want to secure the battery at least a bit. It's the first thing which can be damaged in crash. This thick hanky can protect it at least a bit. I'm going to make some battery case in the future.

There is only one "small" problem - even now is my tricopter pretty heavy. It weighs almost 1400 g (3,1 lbs).
 

Burg

Never catch a multirotor
#12
I'm not really sure, what did you think with your first question. Do you want DXF files? It's modified RCexplorer's design. It is a bit longer and adjusted to accommodate 12mm U profile. The rest is the same.
Well, as I wrote, I also use 12x12mm arm (pine wood) and modified the RCExplorer pdf plans (just enlarged the print-out)
I very much like the thin fiberglass plates you have there.

My question is if you laser cut these yourself ?
When yes, could cut a bunch for me ?
Depending on the price off course ;-)

Somehow my 3mm wooden multiplex plates are not that nice..
Burg.
 

Trinom

Crazy electrician
#13
It's a standard 1,5 mm thick copper plated fiberglass for circuit boards called FR4. I have only a pen plotter which I use to draw the the lines on the copper foil. Like this

I used a saw to cut all excessive material. The finest part was made using a dremmel tool and aku-drill.

I can ask my workmate if we have a CNC milling machine at work. We might have some small. I think laser is not the best tool for this purpose.

Colorex, I use the same DT750 motors as David uses. I have 1047 props on them, 1147 are ordered too, but they are still marked as backorder. I'm waiting for them.

Shadow, I have to learn with this toy first :black_eyed:. I'm learning with the simulator and I have found, that I have better results using FPV than ground view :D.


PS: I'm just preparing lights for my tricopter. They will be remote controlled. Stay tuned :)
 
Last edited:

Trinom

Crazy electrician
#14
Burg, we don't have the milling machine, but if you don't need more than two sets, I can make them for you using only hand tools.

I have more info about the lights for my tricopter. I'm going to use very popular LED strips from ebay. I've chosen strips with 3528 LEDs, 60 LEDs/m because of lower power consumption than 5050 LEDs. I know, they are not as bright as 5050s, but I think it will be enough.

The tail arm will be lit from the sides and bottom using red LED strips. Front arms will be lit just at the bottom and they will shine white. At the ends of the front arms will be the side markers, like on cars. I love american cars, which were the inspiration. And finally, there will be two spot lights on the center part. I will keep more information for myself, this will be the surprice for you.

And as I mentioned in other thread, I'm going to improve my landing gear.
 

Trinom

Crazy electrician
#15
Today was the big day. Finaly I saw my tricopter flying for longer time than 10 or 15 seconds before hard landing. I asked one local RC pilot to help me and he did the maiden flight for me.
Here is a short video. We flew about ten minutes without any problem.
He gave me an advice to buy a Blade mSR X micro helicopter to learn how to fly with heli and be able to handle the tricopter without crashes in the future. I'm still flying using a simulator to learn the handling.

BTW, Burg, this guy has a CNC milling machine at home, so I asked him if he is able to make the tricopter bases for you. He told me that yes and he wants like $15 for one set. He uses 2mm plain fiber glass (not copper plated). What do you think? I think his price is very good.
 

ananas1301

Crazy flyer/crasher :D
#20
Shadow, I have to learn with this toy first :black_eyed:. I'm learning with the simulator and I have found, that I have better results using FPV than ground view :D.

[\QUOTE]

Yeah that is just because when you fly FPV your perspective is always the same so always when you push your aileron stick to the right, the picture will tilt to the right.
However if you fly on sight it all gets much more tricky. If you do a turn and the front of the TRI is facing you, pushing to right will result in a push you will see as going to the left so you get confused very quickly which direction you gotta push. I have no problems with the aileron input but with the elevator input. with aileron I always keep saying push to the lower end to stabilise. with elevator I haven´t got into a habit or something. It still is a challenge to get this thing flying properly :) Good luck for you :D