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Turnigy 300 park moter question???????????

#1
The stuff came in from HK. I ordered a Turnigy 300 motor and the 8X4 props I got are too thick at the hub to use the prop saver or the collet. I'm sure I can find a thinner hub prop. My question is how is the prob saver attached? There are two screws that the rubber band goes around, I removed these but am unable to remove the prop saver adapter. What is the secret? I want to use the collet, but will use the prop saver if I have to. Either way the electric props I got are not going to work on either of them.
 
#3
Thanks Bolvon, that is the motor I have. Thanks you very much, I'm sure I'll have other questions and sure there is enough talent and experience out there to get me through this.
 
#4
Well, scratch one motor. I pulled the clip and removed the shims from the rear of the motor. Took the set screws out of the prop saver and the shaft would not budge at all. I seperated the motor in half just leaving the magnet front housing and the shaft. The shaft still would not budge. Seeing nothing else that should be securing the shaft, I gave it a tap from the rear, It did not budge but bent the shaft. Is there something else I'm missing that will free the shaft? When I get a new motor in I want to be sure I know what's holding the shaft in place. Hey, at worst I got a spare armuture now....
 

Bolvon72

Senior Member
Mentor
#5
Now I feel really bad. I have adjusted shafts by putting the end of the shaft I want to push forward against a bit of wood and pushing the motor down with steady force. I am sorry you bent your shaft. Because it was my advice you can replace it with http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...Match_Park300_Series_Replacem ent_Shaft.html and pm me your address and I would be happy to send you the cash.

Here's a guy using a vice for the problem.
 
#6
Thanks for the offer Bolvon, but just providing the link for the shaft is more than enough. I got a new motor in and it is the same way. For sure the shaft is going to have to be pressed out. Maybe the flitetest crew could do a video on this. Are all motor shafts this tight when you go to reverse them? What type prop can I use that would have a hub thin enough and a hub with a small enough diameter to allow the use of the prop -saver adapter? I went to the local (40 miles away) hobby shop and all they had were the APC props that are too thick at the hub and the hub diameter is too wide to use with either the prop-saver or the collet. Anyway, don't feel bad about this. I am looking at this whole hobby as a learning experience.
 
#7
Sometimes, certain things require you to booger up to learn.

Anyway, some shafts are held in with a threadlock compound. a strong solvent or heat (soldering gun, or flame on the nearest protruding section of the shaft until it starts to change color. Let it cool slowly before attempting to remove)will loosen them. Sometimes, they are just tight. Finesse will loosen them... and a good hammer.

I would advise against purchasing motor shafts from Hobby King, as I have found them to be rather soft. Heads Up Rc can usually match what you need with a much better material.
 

Tritium

Amateur Extra Class K5TWM
#8
Be VERY careful of heating an assembly with NdFeB Magnets in it. It doesn't take much heat to cause irreversible damage to the magnet strength. 400 degrees F will almost completely demagnetize one and as little as 200 degrees can cause weakening of the magnets flux permanently.

Thurmond
 
#9
Be VERY careful of heating an assembly with NdFeB Magnets in it. It doesn't take much heat to cause irreversible damage to the magnet strength. 400 degrees F will almost completely demagnetize one and as little as 200 degrees can cause weakening of the magnets flux permanently.

Thurmond

Actually, magnetism returns when the temperature drops. Also, I believe NdFeB magnets can withstand up tp 300F before loss of magnetism, which returns during cooling. If I remember correctly, most threadlocking compounds degrade between 200-250F.

And plenty of these motors get firecracker hot during a hard flight.