Why not?
Not sure about a 20a ESC, others who are more familiar with the setup will need to weigh in. But a 40a will work.
i have a bunch of questions
- Thread starter f-35lover
- Start date
Not sure about a 20a ESC, others who are more familiar with the setup will need to weigh in. But a 40a will work.
f-35lover
Member
so a 40a will work and hopefully not explode?
FlyerInStyle
Elite member
on that setup, a 40a will most definitely not explode. I use 30as on that setup just fine.
Correct, the amp rating for ECS’s is a do not exceed number.
All amp ratings in the RC world are do not exceed. It perfectly fine to use less amps than than what it is rated for.
Start with the motor, pick a prop that will not cause the motor to pull more amps than the motor is rated for. Next pick an ESC that can supply more amps than the motor is drawing. It’s good to have a bit of overhead, the servos & Rx also draw a few amps. Finally pick a battery that can supply the amp needed.
With batteries the amp capacity is calculated. The formula is mAh/1000 x C = A
Example a 2,000 mAh 20C battery can supply 40 amps. (2,000/1,000 x 20 = 40)
Sometimes a battery will have 2 C ratings, the higher one is a burst rate, what the battery can do for a short burst, 10-15 seconds. The lower one is what you want to use, it’s a continuous use rate.
If you exceed the amp rating of any component, you risk burning it out.
quorneng
Master member
f-35lover
You can see from Merv's reply how important it is is to actually know what level of Amps are being used.
The best way of doing this is to use a Watt meter. It is a test instrument and intended to go between the battery and the ESC. It measures the amps in real time so you can see at full power if the amps are exceeding any of the components specified limits you simply stop before anything gets damaged.
Obviously running a plane at full power held on the ground needs care and attention, a prop can can cause serious injury, but if you know the amps are within limits it is much less likely to fail in the air. A crash can damage many components.
You can see from Merv's reply how important it is is to actually know what level of Amps are being used.
The best way of doing this is to use a Watt meter. It is a test instrument and intended to go between the battery and the ESC. It measures the amps in real time so you can see at full power if the amps are exceeding any of the components specified limits you simply stop before anything gets damaged.
Obviously running a plane at full power held on the ground needs care and attention, a prop can can cause serious injury, but if you know the amps are within limits it is much less likely to fail in the air. A crash can damage many components.
FlyerInStyle
Elite member
what prop will you be using?
f-35lover
Member
a 9x4.5 slow prop
FlyerInStyle
Elite member
ok, nice. You can up it to a 10x4.5. You basically haev a c pack equivalent
f-35lover
Member
Thanks!
Crazed Scout Pilot
Well-known member
I really like your questions. I read through the whole chat and let me see if I can help at all. It sounds like you have the prop spinner problem figured out. Next is if you are a beginner pilot I highly recommend using landing gear, fora couple of reasons: 1 your taking off from the ground so if somethings wrong you have less damage when you crash. Sometimes when you first build an airplane the trim is all out of wack and it will turn sharply to the right or left. If you throw it and it is like that, it is almost certain to crash but if you taxi you will notice that and then fix it. If you don't want to buy wheels I'll be happy to make you some foam ons and mail them to you. Another thing I noticed is that you plan to use a 2200 mph that is a real big battery I suggest using something more like a 1000 3 cell mph. I personally use forms Simple Souut an 3cell 800 mph. It depends upon how hard you are going to fly. for me I just cruise at half throttle and the 800 is lighter and lasts 10 minutes. If you have questions about how to charge let me know because it can be a bit complicated. If you don't have an 800 3cell mph I have an extra one with a jst connector and I can mail it to you. Also I noticed from your pictures something very critical. You have to angle the motor slightly to the right. what that does is it counter acts the torque. If you don't do that it will fly sharply to the left and likely crash. Here are som pics of my Spitfire power pod so that you can see what it looks like.
I hope this helps. you have picked a good plane to start out with. I just built a couple for my self.
Happy Flying. Please keep me posted if you able to get in to the air.
Shurik-1960
Well-known member
I will add a little: if the model with the right-hand drive flies smoothly but sharply gains altitude, it is necessary to put a couple of washers under the upper leg of the engine to mow the motor down. Thus, by putting washers under the paws of the engine, we achieve a straight flight of the model and enjoy!!
Crazed Scout Pilot
Well-known member
I forgot to say this but a rudder on the Simple Scout will be fine you will have no turn problems. I do suggest setting up dual rates. One with a weight of 30 and the other with a weight of 60. That way when you take off you use the low rate and then in the air if you need to turn sharper you ca use the higher rate.
Old and rusty
New member
I bought a b6 clone for my rc cars a few years ago for around 20 bucks. Charges all types and sizes of batteries (even the little 1s for my cub), discharges, and can monitor individual lipo cells...for the money don't think you could go wrong with that one.
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