Jade_Monkey07
Well-known member
Smashed the Komet again today. Nose and battery tray need a rebuild. But everything else seems good. Shouldnt take too long to fix up
Dang, your persistence is impressive lolSmashed the Komet again today. Nose and battery tray need a rebuild. But everything else seems good. Shouldnt take too long to fix up
Easier to repair the nose than a full rebuild. It keeps tip stalling on hard turns so I think I'm going to add some stall fences this time around.Dang, your persistence is impressive lol
Oof!>sigh< I crashed my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus..... >sigh<
Had a broken switch which should have been a simple solder job, but forgot to unhook the battery before starting and ended up shorting out the main board killing it dead. :-( No response from anything including USB, which means the main board is definitely fried.
Looking at the Radiomaster TX16S with hall gimbals as a replacement. Would get me back in the air with the least effort unless I can find a cheap OG X9D+ to grab the boards from. Fortunately I had a somewhat recent backup of my models which will aid in setting up whatever radio I end up with.
:-(
LitterBug
>sigh< I crashed my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus..... >sigh<
Had a broken switch which should have been a simple solder job, but forgot to unhook the battery before starting and ended up shorting out the main board killing it dead. :-( No response from anything including USB, which means the main board is definitely fried.
Looking at the Radiomaster TX16S with hall gimbals as a replacement. Would get me back in the air with the least effort unless I can find a cheap OG X9D+ to grab the boards from. Fortunately I had a somewhat recent backup of my models which will aid in setting up whatever radio I end up with.
:-(
LitterBug
EDIT: FYI Kids... The power switch is a logical switch, not an actual power switch. All the electronics are HOT if the battery is plugged in. So it is really easy to short out the 3.3v bus if you are working on switches or other components.
I have to get some slightly different lua scripts for iNav and ArduPilot too. I'll probably hold off on the touch stuff for now till I get all my standard functionality going first. Was in the middle of beta testing some iNav functionality and that got stopped cold. I'll also move all my DX8 models over so I can sell that to help pay for the new radio.Now that OT has been pushing the Edge OTx it`s up and ready to download to make use of the touch screen on the Radiomaster TX16s. Both systems can be set up on the Radiomaster to be able to switch back and forth from touch to standard buttons. So far the guys using Edge have really liked it, I am about ready to install Edge since it seems to be running very well, there are still some tweaks they will be doing for a while.
Radio master with hall gimbals is awsome, love mine, the gimbals are just soooo smooth, and u completely lost me on what a “logic switch isn’t a power switch” thing🤣>sigh< I crashed my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus..... >sigh<
Had a broken switch which should have been a simple solder job, but forgot to unhook the battery before starting and ended up shorting out the main board killing it dead. :-( No response from anything including USB, which means the main board is definitely fried.
Looking at the Radiomaster TX16S with hall gimbals as a replacement. Would get me back in the air with the least effort unless I can find a cheap OG X9D+ to grab the boards from. Fortunately I had a somewhat recent backup of my models which will aid in setting up whatever radio I end up with.
:-(
LitterBug
EDIT: FYI Kids... The power switch is a logical switch, not an actual power switch. All the electronics are HOT if the battery is plugged in. So it is really easy to short out the 3.3v bus if you are working on switches or other components.
meaning that if you turn off the radio using the power switch, the circuitry still has power.. to make sure it is 100% turned off you must unplug the batteryRadio master with hall gimbals is awsome, love mine, the gimbals are just soooo smooth, and u completely lost me on what a “logic switch isn’t a power switch” thing🤣
I picked up on that right away after getting mine. southern heat + AC meant I was thermo shifting it significantly at times, RM responded back that thermo drift on hall effect sensors is normal... some research and apparently there is a way to thermo compensate, but that more expensive option wasn't done.One of the things I have noticed on my RadioMaster TX16s versus my DX9 is the Hall gimbals that are used in the RadioMaster seem to need calibration more often where as my DX9 once I calibrated them they did not need calibrating again but they are not Halls. After doing some reading it does seem Hall Sensor gimbals are more prone to weather temperature changes.
I picked up on that right away after getting mine. southern heat + AC meant I was thermo shifting it significantly at times, RM responded back that thermo drift on hall effect sensors is normal... some research and apparently there is a way to thermo compensate, but that more expensive option wasn't done.
The worse I have seen is mine off by 1% (of the -100% to 100% range) - if not for watching the monitor I wouldn't have noticed.