What did you crash today

dap35

Elite member
Totaled my Simple Stik on it's maiden.... Turns out the stops for my aileron linkages were not tight enough...
So it was a really short maiden.
 

BlockerAviation

Legendary member
As I promised! Lol (ops, wrong thread, didn't crash this one!)
IMG_20210818_195839484_BURST009~2.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mr NCT

Site Moderator
Crashed my FT Sportster this evening. I made the fatal mistake of thinking about what I was doing instead of letting muscle memory fly the plane. The good news - bad news is that I crashed in a soybean field. No damage to the plane but even though I had a good sight line on where it went down it took me almost an hour to find it. I walked out and looped back, then took my tx and every 20ft goosed the throttle. I found that I'd walked within 10 feet of it three times! I was very fortunate that the battery hadn't come unplugged. Lesson learned - I'm not flying again without a Tile locator taped to the plane at least until the field is harvested.
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
>sigh< I crashed my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus..... >sigh<
Had a broken switch which should have been a simple solder job, but forgot to unhook the battery before starting and ended up shorting out the main board killing it dead. :-( No response from anything including USB, which means the main board is definitely fried.

Looking at the Radiomaster TX16S with hall gimbals as a replacement. Would get me back in the air with the least effort unless I can find a cheap OG X9D+ to grab the boards from. Fortunately I had a somewhat recent backup of my models which will aid in setting up whatever radio I end up with.

:-(
LitterBug

EDIT: FYI Kids... The power switch is a logical switch, not an actual power switch. All the electronics are HOT if the battery is plugged in. So it is really easy to short out the 3.3v bus if you are working on switches or other components.
 
Last edited:

FlamingRCAirplanes

Elite member
>sigh< I crashed my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus..... >sigh<
Had a broken switch which should have been a simple solder job, but forgot to unhook the battery before starting and ended up shorting out the main board killing it dead. :-( No response from anything including USB, which means the main board is definitely fried.

Looking at the Radiomaster TX16S with hall gimbals as a replacement. Would get me back in the air with the least effort unless I can find a cheap OG X9D+ to grab the boards from. Fortunately I had a somewhat recent backup of my models which will aid in setting up whatever radio I end up with.

:-(
LitterBug
Oof!
 

Ratcheeroo

Legendary member
Had my best flight day yet, crashed 3 of 4, but all are fairly easy repairs. Analysis : I suck at hand launching, so no more of that, I had a much easier time getting in the air from the ground. I will add some pics shortly of the victims LOL! Was very impressed by my AP Super Tucano, that thing on a 1500 4s was a rocket and flew like it was on rails. Need to work on my landing skills a bit LOL!:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

Bricks

Master member
>sigh< I crashed my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus..... >sigh<
Had a broken switch which should have been a simple solder job, but forgot to unhook the battery before starting and ended up shorting out the main board killing it dead. :-( No response from anything including USB, which means the main board is definitely fried.

Looking at the Radiomaster TX16S with hall gimbals as a replacement. Would get me back in the air with the least effort unless I can find a cheap OG X9D+ to grab the boards from. Fortunately I had a somewhat recent backup of my models which will aid in setting up whatever radio I end up with.

:-(
LitterBug

EDIT: FYI Kids... The power switch is a logical switch, not an actual power switch. All the electronics are HOT if the battery is plugged in. So it is really easy to short out the 3.3v bus if you are working on switches or other components.


Now that OT has been pushing the Edge OTx it`s up and ready to download to make use of the touch screen on the Radiomaster TX16s. Both systems can be set up on the Radiomaster to be able to switch back and forth from touch to standard buttons. So far the guys using Edge have really liked it, I am about ready to install Edge since it seems to be running very well, there are still some tweaks they will be doing for a while.
 

Matthewdupreez

Legendary member
i didn't crash anything today.... the ground just tried to eat my plane:ROFLMAO::cry:............... I am super happy with the apc props.... look at the plane, the carnage..... look at the prop, perfectly fine
IMG_1054.JPG

luckily there was no damage to any electronics.... will explain what happened in my carnage thread (soon to be)
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
Now that OT has been pushing the Edge OTx it`s up and ready to download to make use of the touch screen on the Radiomaster TX16s. Both systems can be set up on the Radiomaster to be able to switch back and forth from touch to standard buttons. So far the guys using Edge have really liked it, I am about ready to install Edge since it seems to be running very well, there are still some tweaks they will be doing for a while.
I have to get some slightly different lua scripts for iNav and ArduPilot too. I'll probably hold off on the touch stuff for now till I get all my standard functionality going first. Was in the middle of beta testing some iNav functionality and that got stopped cold. I'll also move all my DX8 models over so I can sell that to help pay for the new radio.
 

Tench745

Master member
Maidened my FT Sportster today. It flew great for the first 30 seconds, till I went full throttle and smoked the ESC. Luckily the internal BEC kept working and I was able to make a decent deadstick landing.
It has been sitting on the shelf so long waiting for the maiden that I don't know what I was thinking when I put a 9x4.5 prop on a 2200kv motor with a 30A ESC on 3s. I replaced the ESC, put the thing on the watt-meter and saw over 42AMPS! and I wasn't even at full throttle yet. No wonder the ESC smoked.
Swapped out for an 1100kv motor and re-maidened, all is well.
IMG_1801[1].JPG
 

Flightspeed

Convicted Necroposter
>sigh< I crashed my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus..... >sigh<
Had a broken switch which should have been a simple solder job, but forgot to unhook the battery before starting and ended up shorting out the main board killing it dead. :-( No response from anything including USB, which means the main board is definitely fried.

Looking at the Radiomaster TX16S with hall gimbals as a replacement. Would get me back in the air with the least effort unless I can find a cheap OG X9D+ to grab the boards from. Fortunately I had a somewhat recent backup of my models which will aid in setting up whatever radio I end up with.

:-(
LitterBug

EDIT: FYI Kids... The power switch is a logical switch, not an actual power switch. All the electronics are HOT if the battery is plugged in. So it is really easy to short out the 3.3v bus if you are working on switches or other components.
Radio master with hall gimbals is awsome, love mine, the gimbals are just soooo smooth, and u completely lost me on what a “logic switch isn’t a power switch” thing🤣
 

Bricks

Master member
One of the things I have noticed on my RadioMaster TX16s versus my DX9 is the Hall gimbals that are used in the RadioMaster seem to need calibration more often where as my DX9 once I calibrated them they did not need calibrating again but they are not Halls. After doing some reading it does seem Hall Sensor gimbals are more prone to weather temperature changes.
 

JasonK

Participation Award Recipient
One of the things I have noticed on my RadioMaster TX16s versus my DX9 is the Hall gimbals that are used in the RadioMaster seem to need calibration more often where as my DX9 once I calibrated them they did not need calibrating again but they are not Halls. After doing some reading it does seem Hall Sensor gimbals are more prone to weather temperature changes.
I picked up on that right away after getting mine. southern heat + AC meant I was thermo shifting it significantly at times, RM responded back that thermo drift on hall effect sensors is normal... some research and apparently there is a way to thermo compensate, but that more expensive option wasn't done.

The worse I have seen is mine off by 1% (of the -100% to 100% range) - if not for watching the monitor I wouldn't have noticed.
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
I also crashed this one on NMA day. Don't think I post here
He is afterword with some tape and glue:
 

Bricks

Master member
I picked up on that right away after getting mine. southern heat + AC meant I was thermo shifting it significantly at times, RM responded back that thermo drift on hall effect sensors is normal... some research and apparently there is a way to thermo compensate, but that more expensive option wasn't done.

The worse I have seen is mine off by 1% (of the -100% to 100% range) - if not for watching the monitor I wouldn't have noticed.


If not for running IC engines I probably would not of paid much attention, but my idles were very inconsistent from plane to plane. I could get my idles set using the trim button., Next time would fly them they would be way off on the idle so it is a constant monkeying around, and now I constantly check my failsafe to make sure it works as it should..