Which glider is a better pick for a beginer?
- Thread starter The Flying Tuba
- Start date
Both kits are vintage -- The BoT kit is the original Mark's Models version. Depending on condition each could fetch roughly $100.
On the other hand, they're nice birds to have in your hangar. I wouldn't be too hasty to sell them off.
12' span -- 1/5th scale. Very nice! Definitely something you'll want to get flying again . . . but take your time learning to fly first.
Pics that are too large tends to be the usual reason for failed uploads. Reducing size generally fixes the problem.
On the other hand, they're nice birds to have in your hangar. I wouldn't be too hasty to sell them off.
12' span -- 1/5th scale. Very nice! Definitely something you'll want to get flying again . . . but take your time learning to fly first.
Pics that are too large tends to be the usual reason for failed uploads. Reducing size generally fixes the problem.
The Flying Tuba
New member
The only other thing atm is my radios. Both are 72.690 MHz. However, one of them has what looks like a chip that pops out. I think i can change to the newer 2.4MHz
TexMechsRobot
Posted a thousand or more times
If you decide to build the BoT, I'll be starting mine in about a month and I'm sure we could answer some of each other's questions along with the support of all the people on these forums.
This is a link to my build thread. I won't be starting until after April 22nd.
This is a link to my build thread. I won't be starting until after April 22nd.
Unfortunately, no.
The chip that pops out changes between different channels in the 72 Mhz, but it only works in the 72MHz band. There are a few DIY 2.4GHz modules that can be installed in these radios -- doable, but not always simple.
On the positive side, as long as the gear still works, those are nice radios. 2.4G's big advantage over 72M is the automatic channel hopping, but so few people fly 72MHz these days, so the odds of someone stepping on your channel is pretty low. As for all the other advantages of more modern radios . . . upgrading those radios won't provide that.
The chip that pops out changes between different channels in the 72 Mhz, but it only works in the 72MHz band. There are a few DIY 2.4GHz modules that can be installed in these radios -- doable, but not always simple.
On the positive side, as long as the gear still works, those are nice radios. 2.4G's big advantage over 72M is the automatic channel hopping, but so few people fly 72MHz these days, so the odds of someone stepping on your channel is pretty low. As for all the other advantages of more modern radios . . . upgrading those radios won't provide that.
The Flying Tuba
New member
Ill start building the BoT soon. Im not sure how long it will be till i have an FTSS or photon.
The Flying Tuba
New member
Where do i find clubs to fly with?
Check out this map to find the AMA clubs near you. http://www.modelaircraft.org/membership/clubs.aspx
Dan pretty much sorted out the terms glider and sailplane. "Glider" is a pessimistic term and "sailplane" is an optimistic one!
Dan pretty much sorted out the terms glider and sailplane. "Glider" is a pessimistic term and "sailplane" is an optimistic one!
The Flying Tuba
New member
Oooo i remember AMA now. I forgot i have a card that says im a member untill july when i turn 19. That brings back memories. I think i just remembered somone who would be willing to buddy box to help me get back in the swing of it.
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The Flying Tuba
New member
Now yall said get the full sized radian, but would the mini work for my pourposes? Im on a fairly tight budget to get back into the hobby.
Yes, the UMX Radian will work nicely. In fact, I was slope soaring with some friends Wednesday afternoon. One guy, who is also a full scale sailplane and power pilot, brought his Whipit and UMX Radian. It was a bit gusty for the Whipit, but the UMX Radian did beautifully. He was flying with much larger planes and hanging right with them. They put extra magic powder on those Radians at the factory.
The Flying Tuba
New member
I also have found a few recurring terms that i dont know. ARF and ESC
ARF - Almost Ready to Fly. This is a term that is applied differently by different vendors. For instance, an ARF from Horizon Hobby will be a plane that has all major components built, but not fully assembled. And, their ARF's come with no electronics. Another manufacture may identify an ARF as something that only needs a battery and receiver. There is no industry standard.
ESC - Electronic Speed Controller. The esc is what controls the speed of the motor. It converts the single phase, direct current from the battery to 3 phase, AC current (sort of). I don't think our brushless motors are true AC, 3-phase motors, though. But, I'm no electrical guru. Esc's will usually have a BEC (Battery Elimination Curcuit) which provides 3v-5v to power the receiver and servos.
ESC - Electronic Speed Controller. The esc is what controls the speed of the motor. It converts the single phase, direct current from the battery to 3 phase, AC current (sort of). I don't think our brushless motors are true AC, 3-phase motors, though. But, I'm no electrical guru. Esc's will usually have a BEC (Battery Elimination Curcuit) which provides 3v-5v to power the receiver and servos.
ARF = Almost ready to fly - kit with major assemblies made, generally missing some electronics.
PNF = plug-n-fly - assembled airframe missing only the Rx and battery.
BNF = bind-n-fly - assembled and ready airframe missing only the transmitter
BNF basic - has Rx, but missing battery
RTF = ready to fly - kit includes everything.
ESC = electronic speed controller. The module that regulates throttle and in modern setups provides power to the radio gear.
One word of warning about the umx radian -- it is outfitted with a brick receiver. This means the reciever, ESC and servos are all built into the same board, so you won't be able to install your receiver to use your transmitter. If you go with the umx radian, you will need to get the RTF package.
If your budget is this limited, you don't have many other options than build a foam board airframe.
PNF = plug-n-fly - assembled airframe missing only the Rx and battery.
BNF = bind-n-fly - assembled and ready airframe missing only the transmitter
BNF basic - has Rx, but missing battery
RTF = ready to fly - kit includes everything.
ESC = electronic speed controller. The module that regulates throttle and in modern setups provides power to the radio gear.
One word of warning about the umx radian -- it is outfitted with a brick receiver. This means the reciever, ESC and servos are all built into the same board, so you won't be able to install your receiver to use your transmitter. If you go with the umx radian, you will need to get the RTF package.
If your budget is this limited, you don't have many other options than build a foam board airframe.
The Flying Tuba
New member
Im im on a budget bc it shouldnt take long to relearn, and i need to save money to by new electronics for my balsa models. Plus, I dont wanna buy a trainer thats expensive since the likelyhood is im going to crash alot.
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The Flying Tuba
New member
Atm i have about $200 to buy a trainer and any parts needed for it, along with a 2.4ghz radio
Im looking at a spectrum DXe 6 channel.
Im looking at a spectrum DXe 6 channel.
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The Flying Tuba
New member
Actually you know what? Im gonna get the trainer kit from FT. I didnt realize it came with everything needed to power and upgrade it. Im rushing way too much. I really need to slow down and ease back into it before i build a very old plane and ruin it in a crash.
We all have budgets for our own reasons -- few of us are rich enough to simply waste money, so knowing the limits and trade-offs is a good thing. $150-200 to get a GOOD trainer in flying condition is actually pretty reasonable. You can go cheaper, but corners will need to be cut, whether it be in ease of setup, the reusability of the support gear, friendliness of the trainer, survivability in a crash . . . This is what you pay more for.
Starting out with your chosen radio, a BNF version of the full Radian will get you learning on a large stable platform that can take a hard landing, and swapping your Rx for the one built in (be prepared to carve out space for your Rx), your radio gear can be used so you get comfortable with it. Trust me, when your build completes, you'll probably still pull out the radian to fly from time to time -- she's that much of a sweetheart.
Going with a RTF version of the UMX radian is a decent runner-up. You won't be able to reuse the batteries in your new build, and you'll learn on a "toy" transmitter -- looks and feels more like a game controller, has no programmability, and the range is poor -- instead of the nicer radios you have. It's still a great plane to fly, so you'll probably fly it from time to time as well. The problem with this option . . . I can't see anyone selling a RTF version of the UMX radian anymore. The BNF version assume you have a DSMX or DSM2 radio to bind with it . . . So you'll need to add on the cost of a new Spektrum compatible radio to go with it
Trimming the budget further can be done if you build your trainer as well -- the two I've mentioned can be built and outfitted with your radio gear in about a week's worth of evenings for $50-75, and can be completely rebuilt after a nasty crash for a small fraction of that. There is some merit to the argument that it's better to buy your first trainer, trimmed and ready to fly, instead of building your first trainer . . . But after each build, each repair becomes easier.
Your plane, your call.
Starting out with your chosen radio, a BNF version of the full Radian will get you learning on a large stable platform that can take a hard landing, and swapping your Rx for the one built in (be prepared to carve out space for your Rx), your radio gear can be used so you get comfortable with it. Trust me, when your build completes, you'll probably still pull out the radian to fly from time to time -- she's that much of a sweetheart.
Going with a RTF version of the UMX radian is a decent runner-up. You won't be able to reuse the batteries in your new build, and you'll learn on a "toy" transmitter -- looks and feels more like a game controller, has no programmability, and the range is poor -- instead of the nicer radios you have. It's still a great plane to fly, so you'll probably fly it from time to time as well. The problem with this option . . . I can't see anyone selling a RTF version of the UMX radian anymore. The BNF version assume you have a DSMX or DSM2 radio to bind with it . . . So you'll need to add on the cost of a new Spektrum compatible radio to go with it
Trimming the budget further can be done if you build your trainer as well -- the two I've mentioned can be built and outfitted with your radio gear in about a week's worth of evenings for $50-75, and can be completely rebuilt after a nasty crash for a small fraction of that. There is some merit to the argument that it's better to buy your first trainer, trimmed and ready to fly, instead of building your first trainer . . . But after each build, each repair becomes easier.
Your plane, your call.
For the dxe . . . Do yourself a favor and skip it. There are few radios horizon builds that I'd say avoid . . . That is one of them.
Take a few minutes to double check the futaba gear you have to verify it still works. If it does, use it. you can get nicer radios than that, but they have most of the features you'd want for a beginner radio and more. Get flying . . . Then consider new radio gear.
Take a few minutes to double check the futaba gear you have to verify it still works. If it does, use it. you can get nicer radios than that, but they have most of the features you'd want for a beginner radio and more. Get flying . . . Then consider new radio gear.
The Flying Tuba
New member
My radios turn on , however both batteries are dead
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