Alrighty, I am off from work for 2 weeks and the wife gave me permission to get another kit since it had been so long. This is the Robert McKellar Gee Bee Z laser cut by Menzano laser. This is one of their latest "experiments" where they have taken the usual cut files and enlarged for larger wood. There are some discrepancies that need to be re-engineered but this really is a "builder's kit" in the truest form.
The plans are the original plane size (smaller than parts cut) and NONE of the parts are labeled. That's right, this is basically a 3D puzzle you glue together with only the picture on the front of the box to guide you. Good thing this is a tab and key design and most everything fits together well!
With all that, this is one of my absolute favorite airplanes of all time. I've always wanted one. Even the wife likes it. So, if this one takes a dive I at least have plans to enlarge and make different. So, on with the build.
First picture shows what you usually get for a "short kit." You only get the parts that are laser cut. Any stringers you will need to supply and my go-to place is National Balsa. However, with this kit not much is needed so I'll just pick up some from the local hobby shop... if they have them.
My chosen tools are generally #11 razors (a must for fine cutting), TitebondII for glue, q-tips, clothes pins, small clamps, sewing pins, and something PERFECTLY FLAT to build on. I am using a sheet of glass. Easy cleanup and it is working very well to keep my parts straight as I build. The #11s are a must for cutting the contest-grade balsa... it is super soft and you run the risk of ripping the wood if you use larger blades. I prefer wood glues over CA glues because the joints are generally more robust. CA is a brittle joint. Q-tips for wiping excess glue and pushing into joints. Clothes pins as mini-clamps that will not crust the very soft balsa. Small clamps for bigger jobs. Sewing pints for the obvious task of the occasional joint that needs pinning while it dries.
So to start off I almost always build the tail pieces. These were fairly straight forward but took time because... nothing was labeled and they all look the same at first glance. Once dry, I gave these pieces a rough sand on the outside. to make sure glue was smooth and ready for covering when it came to it.
Side tip: to remove burns or scorching from the wood caused by the laser cut... use a pencil eraser. The "gummy" kind usually work best as they are softer and are less prone to damaging the balsa.
Then on to the fusealge. There are no instructions and the plans do not cover every piece. I followed the build progression from the designer's prototype build. Its going fine but still, First "where's Waldo?" then Puzz3D!! Its fine because the glue dries slowly.
Last picture shows the "v-stab" (or lack thereof) being glued and held with clamps. Take note of the very bad current Center of Gravity
So I love TitebondII because its versatile. It glues strong and dries much faster than traditional wood glues, even in colder temperatures. Its sandable, paintable, coverable, and on and on and on. If you make a mistake this glue can easily be scored, cracked and then re-glued with no issues. Its just great stuff. I even use it on my foam building.
So follow along. Most of the build will be along shortly during this holiday season.
The plans are the original plane size (smaller than parts cut) and NONE of the parts are labeled. That's right, this is basically a 3D puzzle you glue together with only the picture on the front of the box to guide you. Good thing this is a tab and key design and most everything fits together well!
With all that, this is one of my absolute favorite airplanes of all time. I've always wanted one. Even the wife likes it. So, if this one takes a dive I at least have plans to enlarge and make different. So, on with the build.
First picture shows what you usually get for a "short kit." You only get the parts that are laser cut. Any stringers you will need to supply and my go-to place is National Balsa. However, with this kit not much is needed so I'll just pick up some from the local hobby shop... if they have them.
My chosen tools are generally #11 razors (a must for fine cutting), TitebondII for glue, q-tips, clothes pins, small clamps, sewing pins, and something PERFECTLY FLAT to build on. I am using a sheet of glass. Easy cleanup and it is working very well to keep my parts straight as I build. The #11s are a must for cutting the contest-grade balsa... it is super soft and you run the risk of ripping the wood if you use larger blades. I prefer wood glues over CA glues because the joints are generally more robust. CA is a brittle joint. Q-tips for wiping excess glue and pushing into joints. Clothes pins as mini-clamps that will not crust the very soft balsa. Small clamps for bigger jobs. Sewing pints for the obvious task of the occasional joint that needs pinning while it dries.
So to start off I almost always build the tail pieces. These were fairly straight forward but took time because... nothing was labeled and they all look the same at first glance. Once dry, I gave these pieces a rough sand on the outside. to make sure glue was smooth and ready for covering when it came to it.
Side tip: to remove burns or scorching from the wood caused by the laser cut... use a pencil eraser. The "gummy" kind usually work best as they are softer and are less prone to damaging the balsa.
Then on to the fusealge. There are no instructions and the plans do not cover every piece. I followed the build progression from the designer's prototype build. Its going fine but still, First "where's Waldo?" then Puzz3D!! Its fine because the glue dries slowly.
Last picture shows the "v-stab" (or lack thereof) being glued and held with clamps. Take note of the very bad current Center of Gravity
So I love TitebondII because its versatile. It glues strong and dries much faster than traditional wood glues, even in colder temperatures. Its sandable, paintable, coverable, and on and on and on. If you make a mistake this glue can easily be scored, cracked and then re-glued with no issues. Its just great stuff. I even use it on my foam building.
So follow along. Most of the build will be along shortly during this holiday season.
