Winter Build 2018/19: Hangar 9 P-47D Razorback
- Thread starter willsonman
- Start date
Thank you! I'm glad you are enjoying the build. Nothing done over the weekend. I did get out to fly, which was very nice, but also got more into our old routine since I am not partially weight-bearing on my ankle. I can do more but it takes me longer than I used to. I've got a little less than two months to finish this build but I'm sure I can do it. I did get my paint masks from Callie this weekend so I'm set there. She does such fine work.
struggleforlife
Member
Looking pretty good. hands are a bit over-sized but you could claim gloves are on them. I think it would be better if the print layers were smoothed out and incorporate some washes. Don't take my comments too hard... I'm a perfectionist and I'm always critical as a result. Your pilot is far better than what comes from Hangar 9, which is saying something. H9 makes good stuff.
I actually made progress last night. The first step is to take your panel lines and plan out how you are going to layer the panels. Keep in mind that there is overlap. Panel lines are created by this overlap so you end up applying the panels in sections. It seems tedious at first but let me tell you, the sectioning actually makes things easier. With my panel lines drawn, I applied some tape factoring in about 3/32" overlap. 1/16" seemed too small and 1/8" was just too much. As most of you may know, I prefer metric, so I'm using 2mm of overlap.
For the sake of saving some content for a video on this process I'll do a high-level overview of what I've done. Panels were overlapped (typically) by a forward panel. Therefore you apply panels from the aft moving forward. I applied foil to the area in the rear using only a clean and soft paper towel as a smoothing agent. The edges where the tape serves as a barrier was cut using a #11 razor blade and the excess was removed. The second panel in the middle was then applied in the same way. The front panel proved difficult using a paper towel. I ended up wasting 3 sheets of foil on this area as I conceded that I needed to use my burnishing tool. Having some experience on my prototyping of my process, This does create some scratches in the foil that I will need to work harder at to remove through polishing. The reason for the burnishing tool is that it applies the foil in a smaller area at a time while stretching the foil, allowing it to go over the compound curve without wrinkling the foil. In all, the taping and application of this area took about an hour. It is a SLOW process but I am also new to it. It's highly likely that I will be more proficient at it by the end of covering this project. Overall, I'm fairly pleased with the results. It has been a very busy couple of days so I was tired and I will likely go back and massage a few areas.
I actually made progress last night. The first step is to take your panel lines and plan out how you are going to layer the panels. Keep in mind that there is overlap. Panel lines are created by this overlap so you end up applying the panels in sections. It seems tedious at first but let me tell you, the sectioning actually makes things easier. With my panel lines drawn, I applied some tape factoring in about 3/32" overlap. 1/16" seemed too small and 1/8" was just too much. As most of you may know, I prefer metric, so I'm using 2mm of overlap.
For the sake of saving some content for a video on this process I'll do a high-level overview of what I've done. Panels were overlapped (typically) by a forward panel. Therefore you apply panels from the aft moving forward. I applied foil to the area in the rear using only a clean and soft paper towel as a smoothing agent. The edges where the tape serves as a barrier was cut using a #11 razor blade and the excess was removed. The second panel in the middle was then applied in the same way. The front panel proved difficult using a paper towel. I ended up wasting 3 sheets of foil on this area as I conceded that I needed to use my burnishing tool. Having some experience on my prototyping of my process, This does create some scratches in the foil that I will need to work harder at to remove through polishing. The reason for the burnishing tool is that it applies the foil in a smaller area at a time while stretching the foil, allowing it to go over the compound curve without wrinkling the foil. In all, the taping and application of this area took about an hour. It is a SLOW process but I am also new to it. It's highly likely that I will be more proficient at it by the end of covering this project. Overall, I'm fairly pleased with the results. It has been a very busy couple of days so I was tired and I will likely go back and massage a few areas.
struggleforlife
Member
It looks mighty interesting, and it will be a beaut, though the ocean of work... I am not jealous of you...
struggleforlife
Member
Finally got my cowl attached btw. Followed your lead @willson. Sacrificed a steel ruler and made some thingies which I attached to the existing 'thingies' on the cowl. Ah, the photo will show.
The pilot is looking awesome in his cockpit.
The pilot is looking awesome in his cockpit.
Attachments
Shiny! Looking good so far. I am sure you'll get the hang of the technique.
Struggle's pilot looks good! I figure before too long we'll have loads of good printable pilots. I definitely like that one.
The pilot I've been working on is just about done. I've been working on it between other tasks but I should be able to have him in the mail by Friday.
The first wash on the pants wasn't dark enough, but the second wash made them look a bit more worn in than I was shooting for. Over all I'm happy with how it is coming out. One thing did cross my mind though... He is a pretty passable war-weary pilot but this Jug will have a showroom finish when willsonman wraps her up. I'm going to go with the argument that he'll look more and more at home each successive flying season
He will be right at 2oz when the hands get attached. If that doesn't work out for this bird willsonman is welcome to toss him in whatever he wants.
Struggle's pilot looks good! I figure before too long we'll have loads of good printable pilots. I definitely like that one.
The pilot I've been working on is just about done. I've been working on it between other tasks but I should be able to have him in the mail by Friday.
The first wash on the pants wasn't dark enough, but the second wash made them look a bit more worn in than I was shooting for. Over all I'm happy with how it is coming out. One thing did cross my mind though... He is a pretty passable war-weary pilot but this Jug will have a showroom finish when willsonman wraps her up. I'm going to go with the argument that he'll look more and more at home each successive flying season
He will be right at 2oz when the hands get attached. If that doesn't work out for this bird willsonman is welcome to toss him in whatever he wants.
Attachments
Yes! I do prefer to "field weather" my airplanes. I am going to TRY to keep this one as nice as I can for as long as I can but inevitably, there will be bug dings (and blood spots) among other rash too. Sooo looking forward to this.
struggleforlife
Member
Gorgeous paintwork on the pilot! And I knów now how hard it is to paint on this scale...
Had some time before my club meeting last night so I completed the other side of the hatch. I'm learning this covering process as I go but I think I'm getting the hang of it. You can clearly see some swirling in the finish but again... I will be polishing this with a wheel and polishing compound. The hatches on the top just in front of the canopy were applied last as they overlap a bit as well. As you can also see, the depth of the model is being lost due to the reflection. It's a real testament to how you can use finishing techniques to really change the way your model looks.
HAHAHAHAH!! Well, with the "bling" this thing will create, I'm fairly certain that it will be highly visible, even at night.
One cool picture I'd like to get is with maybe the moon, stars, or even a night flyer reflecting off the finish. I'm unsure of light timing to do all this but there are a few of you photophiles out there that could more than likely help me out with this. I think it would a very rarely captured image and I would love to get that moment.
One cool picture I'd like to get is with maybe the moon, stars, or even a night flyer reflecting off the finish. I'm unsure of light timing to do all this but there are a few of you photophiles out there that could more than likely help me out with this. I think it would a very rarely captured image and I would love to get that moment.
Michael9865
Elite member
Looks great.
Seeing the micafilm brings back memories of my Ace Super Pacer. It was covered with their red covering and the sprayed with clear epoxy paint. That covering is very strong and very tear resistant, it reminded me of a drum skin a little.
Seeing the micafilm brings back memories of my Ace Super Pacer. It was covered with their red covering and the sprayed with clear epoxy paint. That covering is very strong and very tear resistant, it reminded me of a drum skin a little.
I believe you are mistaken. This is not micafilm. This is straight up aluminum... as in the stuff the airplane was actually made of.
PsyBorg
Wake up! Time to fly!
Mr Josh. First amazing progress and great detail of all you have done to this.
Again my clueless self has followed and pictured what you do in my head. When you mentioned needing to use a burnishing tool for more rounded places and its footprint leaving marks it made me picture how little pressure it would take to mark that fine metal.
Being this is one of my bad seeing days and typing by finger on tiny keybd is too inaccurate and frustrating I am using a stylus.
It occured to me this goofy looking tool with the rubber ball on the end might be smooth enough yet firm enough to do the job of your burnishing tool without maring the metal as much.
Again my clueless self has followed and pictured what you do in my head. When you mentioned needing to use a burnishing tool for more rounded places and its footprint leaving marks it made me picture how little pressure it would take to mark that fine metal.
Being this is one of my bad seeing days and typing by finger on tiny keybd is too inaccurate and frustrating I am using a stylus.
It occured to me this goofy looking tool with the rubber ball on the end might be smooth enough yet firm enough to do the job of your burnishing tool without maring the metal as much.
Michael9865
Elite member
Sorry, I should’ve specified that I saw the Micafilm on the shelf behind the plane. 🙂
It's a compromise. You need the hardness of the hard wood to press down the metal as you stretch it but you do not want the surface to be scratched by the applicator. Keep in mind also that the aluminum rubs off onto the applicator and can cause further scratches because, well, aluminum is a soft metal. One of the neat tricks I picked up some time ago was that you can use pencil erasers on aluminum and copper to create scale scratches. A classic example of the look is on the Spirit of St. Louis. The cowl has a swirling pattern that you simply get an appropriately sized pencil eraser, put it down, twist back and forth, and you are left with a circular scratch. Done many times over you are left with that look.
Oh that... my bad!
Yeah, I still have lots of old-time stuff on my shelves. They all have their place for replicating scale details. Nothing picture worthy today. I shot some footage for video editing. The wings had their initial glass applied a while ago and the weave needed to be filled so I did that. Fuselage needs this done as well but I need to remove the cowl... again. It needs done anyway so I can cover it with the aluminum.
Good progress over the weekend. Not great, but good. I got the canopy masked off and covered in foil. These small bits with curves really are the hard part. The flat areas of the wings will go much faster. Also, @wilmracer's pilot came in the mail. MASSIVE thank you for this effort. While the pilot is a little small, the next size up would have been way too big. These odd scales are problematic that way... which is why we need more PILOTS that can be PRINTED. Ugh. Oh well. I had to trim a hole in the back of the seat to get him to sit properly but I'm happy with everything.
