I really hate to say this (feels like kicking someone when they're down) but that's why I test my ESCs with a Current-limiter every time I flash. A bad flash can nearly instantly ruin a good ESC and take the motor with it. I've seen it happen on my bench -- rather not see it happen again
They're simple to build -- just wire in a pair of jumpers with a 12v incandescent automotive lightbulb in series with the hot lead. plug it in and flash with it attached -- if the ESC isn't trying to power the motor, the bulb stays dark and get plenty of power to flash, boot-up and beep the motors.
If something goes wrong (either because an error occurred or the wrong ROM was flashed) and the ESC attempts to do something stupid, the light will illuminate brightly as it tries to draw current and you have time to unplug everything, and/or quickly re-flash. That bulb has just saved your ESC and motor.
If all goes well the ESC reboots with the bulb dark, the motor beeps and I can spin her up to low throttle and the bulb dimly glows as the motor idles. Go much above idle the bulb glows a bit brighter and eventually the ESC resets from the voltage sag the bulb is causing. That's what you're hoping for.
I hate to say it, if the smoke went out after a re-flash, the FET's (Field Effect Transistors driving your motors) are burned and even if it does run, it's damaged to the point where full failure is imminent. I wouldn't trust them. Carefully check your motor as well (if it was plugged in). If the enamel appears scorched, it too is likely to fail in flight -- don't trust it either. Hard short failures in a power system can be devastating to anything sharing that current, so don't trust a functional but smoked part . . . it can break other things when it fails.
Sorry all this advise came in late