Dear god no, don't even try that. Cutting all the dimensions in half would result in some
really wonky wood sizes. You would need to use 3/64 balsa for a lot of things, which is totally impossible to get. Not to mention you'd need 1/64 balsa for the wing ribs which is just hell to work with. (trust me I've tried) If you were to say, change the dimensions of some things to more practical sizes - as an example, changing the longerons to 1/16 - would require redesigning and respacing the slots on every single fuselage former and at this point you might as well just redo the whole plan to make it easier, which is something I have neither the time nor inclination to do.
A UMX brick won't even fit if you scale it to half. Even at full scale, the fuselage is so narrow that a UMX brick barely fits into it. I did actually consider using one of the ones that supports 2s and BL motors, like the one in the UMX Timber, but I already had servos that fit on hand (and plus they're easier to adjust and center better)
Gonna use the 020 power pack from willy nillies. My WN Q-tee has the exact same setup, and it hauls its heavy butt around with authority. For the battery I'm going to use a 350 2s because it's the only size I've got that will actually fit.
No folding prop; I think the extra weight penalty would negate any aerodynamic advantage on such a lightweight airframe. I do have another sub 250g glider that has a folding propeller, and I've flown it both with and without it and don't notice any difference in glide performance between the two.
I've made quite a bit of good progress in the last few days. For a bit, I thought this wouldn't be done in time for B250 but it looks like I can do it. It'll be tight - I might end up doing the maiden Friday morning before I load everything up and strike out for Muncie. The annoying task of shaping the wing trailing edge is at least finished. I think this is the last time I'll ever do this with the trailing edge installed on the wing, at least on a wing with this many ribs. You have to protect each rib with tape to prevent it being sanded down accidentally, which is annoying to do, and sometimes when the tape is removed the ribs can be damaged, especially if the ribs are very thin.
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The wing was otherwise complete, so it's tissue time. I stuck down the tissue with Elmer's glue stick, and shrank it with a mix of 90% water and 10% Eze-dope. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to work very well in my HVLP gun (I just discovered my airbrush got broken in the move
) so I had to brush it on with a foam brush as gently as possible. It worked out decently well, but was a pain to do because the wet strength of this yellow tissue is VERY poor. Push on it even a little too hard or get it too wet and it just gives up and holes are created. Even shifting it over a wing rib results in splits and holes a lot of the time. I had to strip and recover the right panel because it kept splitting during shrinking cause I was too heavy with the dope.
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Completed wing, sans tips. These will get a separate piece, to minimize wrinkles. Of course, I had to drop something on the wing and punch a little hole in it. I think I'll just patch this and claim it to be crash damage to anyone that asks.
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Tail bits were also covered. I set them up with fishing line hinges. I glued them in with CA on one side, and Titebond on the other side. This was so the glue would not discolor the tissue when gluing the two surfaces together. They just need control horns added which I'll make from either old credit cards or 1/32 plywood.
As per usual practice, once the fuselage is covered, the tail feathers will be glued on.
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Weight so far. Not too shabby! This is not including the pushrods or fuselage covering, so add 10g, but everything else is there.
I might have to consider designing a sub-250 2-meter ship again...
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