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Building the FT Mini Guinea speed build kit! YAY!

JTarmstr

Active member
#41
hmmm.....what do you think is wrong? If I turn on the transmitter first, the little red light on the receiver just keeps flashing.
I am not sure, all transmitters i have used i power on the transmitter, set it to the receiver i am using and then power on the plane. What transmitter do you have again?
 

kdobson83

Active member
#42
Also, Should I use thread lock on the propeller nuts?
You can but have fun getting it off when you break a prop. Lol I would just snug it up. If it's a nut then snug it up with a wrench. No need to get crazy and get it super tight. If you have cap nuts, the kind that look like little spinners, they should have a hole in the tip, I use some scrap landing gear with I put in the hole to help torque it down. Again, no need to go crazy and over torque it. A few inch/pounds will do it.
 
#44
The standard procedure is to turn on the transmitter first, for safety. Otherwise if you have a failsafe in your RX it may trigger due to the lack of signal, resulting in unexpected behaviour. So I'm not sure why yours prefers to have the RX powered first, I don't know the brand.

Don't use loctite, I don't even use a wrench at all. I kind of use the prop as a wrench to tighten against the spinner. If they are as loose as possible while still tight enough to drive the props, you have a better chance of everything surviving a prop strike.
 
#46
You can but have fun getting it off when you break a prop. Lol I would just snug it up. If it's a nut then snug it up with a wrench. No need to get crazy and get it super tight. If you have cap nuts, the kind that look like little spinners, they should have a hole in the tip, I use some scrap landing gear with I put in the hole to help torque it down. Again, no need to go crazy and over torque it. A few inch/pounds will do it.
Ok, But both of my motors have CW threads but one one of the motors is spinning CW. Won't the cap nut get loose and fall of?
 

kdobson83

Active member
#48
I'm running a 12a ESC on one motor and a 20a ESC on the other. The 12a esc has a 1a BEC and the 20s esc has I think a 2a BEC.

If I have a 1a BEC on one and a 2a BEC on the other, wouldn't that be fine? With both of them, it equals 3a.
After doing some reading on this subject I am seeing conflicting answers on this topic. Some say, unplug the red wire from the harness on one of the esc's, others say it's not necessary. But they all say unplug the red wire on one of them if they are different esc's. It has something to do with feedback loop and messing up the esc. So, I would either unplug both esc red wires from the harness that plugs into your Rx and use an external ubec, or I would unplug the red wire from your 12a esc and only use the 20a esc to power your Rx. All you need to do to unplug the wire is to use an xacto knife very carefully to pull the red wire out of the RX plug. There should be a small clip that you press on that releases the wire from the plug.
 
#49
After doing some reading on this subject I am seeing conflicting answers on this topic. Some say, unplug the red wire from the harness on one of the esc's, others say it's not necessary. But they all say unplug the red wire on one of them if they are different esc's. It has something to do with feedback loop and messing up the esc. So, I would either unplug both esc red wires from the harness that plugs into your Rx and use an external ubec, or I would unplug the red wire from your 12a esc and only use the 20a esc to power your Rx. All you need to do to unplug the wire is to use an xacto knife very carefully to pull the red wire out of the RX plug. There should be a small clip that you press on that releases the wire from the plug.
Ok, I'll do that.
 

kdobson83

Active member
#50
Ok, But both of my motors have CW threads but one one of the motors is spinning CW. Won't the cap nut get loose and fall of?
It won't if you have it snug enough. The motor shouldn't produce enough torque to loosen it. IF you have it snug enough. I've never had a prop fall off and all I do is snug em up. If they are finger tight, like you just tighten the nut with your bare fingers, than yes, there's a high chance it'll fly off. Just use a small wrench or some scrap wire depending on the nut you have and snug it up.
 
#51
It won't if you have it snug enough. The motor shouldn't produce enough torque to loosen it. IF you have it snug enough. I've never had a prop fall off and all I do is snug em up. If they are finger tight, like you just tighten the nut with your bare fingers, than yes, there's a high chance it'll fly off. Just use a small wrench or some scrap wire depending on the nut you have and snug it up.
Ok!

I almost put thread lock on last night!:eek:
 

FDS

Active member
#52
Also never use RED loctite thread lock on ANYTHING you want to ever take apart again. Mechanics hate it, it’s super strong. Use the blue instead, it comes off.
 

kdobson83

Active member
#55
I made the cargo door so it can open and close with a servo! Now I can drop parachute guys!

Hopefully I don't over load the BEC with it and get a Brown out.
View attachment 121885 View attachment 121886 View attachment 121887
I had a small bomb drop mech on my TT that I made with a servo and rubber band. I LOVED dropping my parachute guy. I got a skydiver guy that lights up and is the tangle free kind, but mine has 2 lines that connect it to the parachute, so you can pull a line through his hand a little and it'll make the guy turn. The parachute is rectangle shaped like a regular parachute. I was trying to find one so I could link it for you but all I'm finding now for tangle free are the single string ones. Anyway, get a tangle free paratrooper, they r awesome.
 
#56
I had a small bomb drop mech on my TT that I made with a servo and rubber band. I LOVED dropping my parachute guy. I got a skydiver guy that lights up and is the tangle free kind, but mine has 2 lines that connect it to the parachute, so you can pull a line through his hand a little and it'll make the guy turn. The parachute is rectangle shaped like a regular parachute. I was trying to find one so I could link it for you but all I'm finding now for tangle free are the single string ones. Anyway, get a tangle free paratrooper, they r awesome.
Great!

I think I what to make some homemade ones. I don't really want to spend any more money, I just spent a lot on the Mini Guinea.
 

kdobson83

Active member
#57
Great!

I think I what to make some homemade ones. I don't really want to spend any more money, I just spent a lot on the Mini Guinea.
I know the feeling. Lol I'm sure there are plenty of how too's out there on that. Good luck flying. Get some good altitude before you hit that cargo door servo. Just in case. Brings back bad memories with my mini Guinea... Lol
 
#58
I am sorry I don't remember how the Devo 7 transmitter works. Its been at least 4 years since I have even turned that thing on. I will do a little digging to see if I can get an answer for you.
 

SlingShot

Maneuvering With Purpose
#59
are you using 2 different sized ESC's? usually best when making a twin to make sure everything matches. last thing you want is for one ESC to be putting out more that the other, or have one fail while the other is still working due to amp load. may not be a problem but could be.

i just finished building my Mini-G and love the plane.

good luck,

me :cool:
+1
You want matched pairs. Twins need consistency.