I think 3dlabprint recommends something wider. I usually have issues with gaps at the layer start with 0.4mm. I've messed with retract and extra prime after retract... I've dried filament... I can't seem to tune out the gapping. And it's inconsistent. Some parts are worse than others, even though I use the exact same printing profile. GHAAAAAA! 🤬I always use .4 with all my printers, and all my planes.
Tweak your PETG into PLA? 🤣So I ran a test comparing PLA to PETG on one wing section on my Ender 3. The PLA came out great! The PETG not so much. I used the G-code setting for the PLA, but increased my nozzle and bed setting a bit. The "skin" on the wing section came out depressed or sagging (see pictures). Any idea what to tweak? View attachment 191789 View attachment 191790
Finished getting mine put together last night. printing and assembly went smoothly. however on the maiden i had an unplanned rapid disassembly when the motor got a little hot and ripped free of the mount :/ If you choose to print the motor mount in pla id def recomend puting somthing on the back of the motor mount to distibute the pull over a wider area, like washers or one of those metal x mounts that comes with motors. other than that it seemed to fly really well before it got hot, def building another. Ive atached the only photo i thought to take of it while it was still in one piece along with what it looks like now.
Yeah, tuning is why I didn't mess with what worked for me. I've adjusted the Feed rates on the printers so they feed consistently, and adjusted the extrusion multiplier for consistency and fill. What works for me, may not work for others based on other adjustments and choices they have made. I may be consistently wrong by some standards, but with all the other adjustments, I get consistent results. Just changing to a different color of the same brand of filament can introduce enough change in flow, that the same profiles may not work...I think 3dlabprint recommends something wider. I usually have issues with gaps at the layer start with 0.4mm. I've messed with retract and extra prime after retract... I've dried filament... I can't seem to tune out the gapping. And it's inconsistent. Some parts are worse than others, even though I use the exact same printing profile. GHAAAAAA! 🤬
Awesome, I’ll definitely be giving this a shot!We have decided in collaboration with Flite Test to make a small present to the community. Here you can download the free version of our model A.
https://www.eclipson-airplanes.com/modela
Notes:
-The free version does not include landing gear parts.
-If you decide to get the free version we can not give you direct support. In case of doubt or problem, please use this forum.
Is there anyone of this forum can help answer these question about 3D printing the Eclipson Modem A out?
I have a creative ender 5 printer.
I see there is g-code files for PLA.
Do I copy them to an SDCARD and just print them out? or should I use the STL files and a slicer program?
I have simplify3D software, does anyone know what setting to set for the slicing profile if I need to use a slicer program?
I have not used Cura program before, should I use Cura instead of simplify3D?
if so what profile setting should I set to get a good print?
Thank You
Sidney
My printer is not an Ender 3 or CR-10 and so figured I may need to perform some changes to these profiles.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4019181
I had Cura configured for my Robo R1 plus and got an error when importing the A profile from the above download as the quality type "standard" is not there in Cura for my printer. Got around the issue by setting printer type in Cura as Ender 3 and then changing the bed size, printer settings, start and end Gcodes for my printer. I used the Wing3L as a test print and the only parameters I changed were the temperature setting of the hot end from 220 to 200. Although its not bad I am seeing some small gaps on the leading edge. Of course this is where the hot end has to perform a very sharpe turn so maybe there is a bit of under extrusion, will continue testing.
You are trying to line up the forward part of the Fuse2 with the forward part of Fuse 3. Turn Fus2 (the one on the right in your pic) around.Hi there,
I think I've done something wrong on the print and was wondering if I'm missing something obvious. I printed the fuselage parts and went to test fit them. As you can see in the image below, the tabs on the left line up fine at the top of the right side part. but the lower ones have nowhere to go as it is a solid piece at the bottom on the right. This issue is repeated on all but the back end of the fuselage. I'm printing on the Ender 3 pro and using the slicer that came with it (it's based on cura).
Did I make a mistake somewhere? Or am I supposed to use a hot knife to open up where those tabs should go?
Thanks for your help
Seán View attachment 192087
Hi there,
I think I've done something wrong on the print and was wondering if I'm missing something obvious. I printed the fuselage parts and went to test fit them. As you can see in the image below, the tabs on the left line up fine at the top of the right side part. but the lower ones have nowhere to go as it is a solid piece at the bottom on the right. This issue is repeated on all but the back end of the fuselage. I'm printing on the Ender 3 pro and using the slicer that came with it (it's based on cura).
Did I make a mistake somewhere? Or am I supposed to use a hot knife to open up where those tabs should go?
Thanks for your help
Seán View attachment 192087
Hi, parts of the fuselage need to be printed with no upper nor bottom layers (and this is also applicable to most of the wing parts): if the slicer you are using is based on Cura, you should set the thickness of top/bottom layers to zero.
Even thought parts are not supposed to be printed as you did, you may try with a hot knife and see if you can "save" them.
Think it’s supposed to be like that. It just gives the 2 surface more contact to glue to. Mine was the same.Is anybody else seeing that the servo horn on Elev2R appears to be cut off? View attachment 192100
Oh, I see it now. Thanks.Think it’s supposed to be like that. It just gives the 2 surface more contact to glue to. Mine was the same.