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ERC TimSav - Cheap DIY CNC Foamboard Cutter

I decided to give this "peg leg CNC" lol a try and I ordered a 40W Neje. Hows your Neje doing what speeds and power are you cuting white adams board?

David, looks like you got a really nice rig there, you got any plans for that guy?
 
I decided to give this "peg leg CNC" lol a try and I ordered a 40W Neje. Hows your Neje doing what speeds and power are you cuting white adams board?

David, looks like you got a really nice rig there, you got any plans for that guy?
Nay, nay... no cutting of white foamboard (DTFB) with a diode laser, regardless of power rating (which are WAY MIS-SPEC'D by the vendors). CO2 laser can do it... diode lasers, no. Wavelength is all wrong... cuts the paper but has no effect on the foam, other than melting from the burning paper when the power is cranked up. If I was still cutting foamboard and building planes, I'd use a needle cutter... ;)
 

GrizWiz

Elite member
Nay, nay... no cutting of white foamboard (DTFB) with a diode laser, regardless of power rating (which are WAY MIS-SPEC'D by the vendors). CO2 laser can do it... diode lasers, no. Wavelength is all wrong... cuts the paper but has no effect on the foam, other than melting from the burning paper when the power is cranked up. If I was still cutting foamboard and building planes, I'd use a needle cutter... ;)
Use It for scoring plans onto foam board!
 
Use It for scoring plans onto foam board!
There's no advantage IMO doing this since you would then, presumably, cut it out by hand... which only makes sense for a one-off or a wall-hanging. Since this thread started out a discussion of Edward Chew's TimSav foam-cutting machine -- pens/markers/lasers or needle cutter can be mounted/used to mark/decorate parts before cutting out... but the needle cutter is by far the cheapest/quickest way to actually cut the plan out.
 
hey anyone out there not have a 3d printer and made this? I wwant to buy the kit, and make the cnc machine. but the problem is that I do not have a 3dprinter!!
 
I live in NJ
I just looked, 3d printing in a service would cost 480 dollars. that would not work for me, I could buy the ender 3 or prusa i3 for less
No, i meant someone else on the forum might be able to print you the parts for free or a very small fee. I live in Indiana. If no one else chimes in I could print you the parts. I am guessing the cost of the plastic and shipping would be $20-30.
 
That would be amazing. I would agree to that, I just do not get who to contact for it. If I can build one of these CNC machines for around 150, it would be amazing.

also, where could I get the aluminum extrusion rods?
 
Hi Guys, I am David Corscadden up in Edmonton, Alberta Canada. I have been on the the ERC Timsav facebook page for quite a while now and thought I may as well say hello over here. I have built 2 timsav's now, one for our club president and one for me. I am a tinkerer and have been modding it out for some time now. I just did up a new cutter head that can also take a NEJE 30/40 watt laser. Dave's cutter head
 

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Here are some things I have learned after a year of using my timsav. I have cut about 100-200 sheets on mine
1 Power the boards from the shield blue power connector rather than the arduino uno black connector as the uno has a diode rated at 1 amp that all power goes through (and can let the magic smoke out of)
2 I also power the servo from the servo tester/esc power as it also removes the power draw from the 5v regulator on the uno and can help with brownouts.
3 I cut longer threads onto my mig tip to allow me to put on a piece of thin aluminum angle as a heatsink and also allow for nuts top and bottom of the mig tip to keep it tight.
4 I drill out the mig tip to 1/16 and solder in a piece of K&S 1/16 brass tub to give a bit tighter fit and the brass has less friction and wear properties
5 if you seem to be getting a lot of vibration, check the motor as mine had a bad front bearing and wore the shaft down causing the bell and shaft to wobble.
6 lube the bearings and needle with a small amount of chainsaw bar oil, like one drop and don't stand in the arch of the flywheel when you fire it up after lubing (wife gets mad if I ruin a shirt)
7 The printed needle holders on the facebook page are great and I haven't lost a needle in about 30 kits now. I also think that we should probably look at putting a guard over the flywheel in case of a thrown needle.
8 I add a m3 s10 followed by a m5 to the beginning of my gcode to make sure the cutter is moved to the home position before cutting ( m5 will not move the servo until a m3 command is issued first)
9 I have been playing with the $1=255 setting as this locks the steppers between cuts and I think that may help with skipped steps. I just testing it but I am having the y motor getting warm from it (my motors are from a scrap copier so I have to look up the specs and set my vref to match)
10 You learn something new every day! Don't sweat the small stuff and if in doubt ask for help and give help if you can.
 
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Thank you everyone for the massive response! We have sold 42 units. 8 units left as of now.

Hi Guys, I am David Corscadden up in Edmonton, Alberta Canada. I have been on the the ERC Timsav facebook page for quite a while now and thought I may as well say hello over here. I have built 2 timsav's now, one for our club president and one for me. I am a tinkerer and have been modding it out for some time now. I just did up a new cutter head that can also take a NEJE 30/40 watt laser. Dave's cutter head
That's a very sweet plane with float man!

And thank you for the great tips!