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Pumpkin drop event

First time build - Tricopter, need help from expirenced builders:)

First RC build ever - Tricopter, need help from expirenced builders :)

Hi guys and girls :)

First off, i'm all new to this hobby (Was playing Airsoft, but broke my leg badly so now i can't play), but I have been following flitetest on youtube for a year or so and read almost all possible threads here and on other sites and now i have set my mind, to build a tricopter.

EDIT: just adding that I've already calculated my flight time and it should be around 8-10 minutes

I really need some one to tell me if this setup will work. Looking for about 8+ minutes of flight time and ready to put on some FPV when i get the money for that part of the build :). also i will list all parts i will buy and how many, so pleas tell me if i'm missing something or should change some parts :) (listed with the most essential parts first)

I'm not new to electronics, and building stuff, also programming (Arduino) isn't new either.
I have thought about the props and i choose to use CW and CCW :)

My controller will be a Spektrum DX8i, and since i live in Denmark i will be buying it from a local shop :)

Base Parts:
- Turnigy Talon Tricopter (V1.0) Carbon Fiber Frame

- Hobbyking KK2.0 Multi-rotor LCD Flight Control Board

- Hobby King Quadcopter Power Distribution Board

- 3 x HobbyKing 30A BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller

- 3 x NTM Prop Drive Series 28-30A 750kv / 140w

- 3 x NTM Prop Drive 28 Series Accessory Pack

- 3 x Slow Fly Electric Prop 1045 SF (4 pc - Green)

- 3 x Slow Fly Electric Prop 1045R SF (4 pc - Green Right Hand Rotation)

- TGY-306G-HV High Voltage Ultra Fast/High Torque MG Digital Alloy Cased Servo 3.7kg / .05sec / 21g

- Nylon XT60 Connectors Male/Female (5 pairs) GENUINE

- 4 x Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 16AWG (1mtr) Red

- 4 x Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 16AWG (1mtr) BLACK


- Wireless 9 in1 Simulator Adapter

- Turnigy Heat Shrink Tube 50mm BLACK (1mtr)

- Scorpion Lipoly Lock Strap 205mm (Small) x 3

- On Board Lipoly Low Voltage Alarm (2s~4s)

- Lithium Polymer Charge Pack 25x33cm JUMBO Sack

- Hobby King Discovery Buzzer

- 10CM Male to Male Servo Lead (JR) 26AWG (10pcs/set)

- Turnigy Receiver Controlled Switch (planned for LED)

Spareparts for frame: (i know i'm going to crash)
- Turnigy Talon Tricopter (V1.0) - Carbon Fiber Tube (3pcs)

- Turnigy Talon Carbon Fiber Landing Gear (2pcs/bag)

eirikso.com Talon Tricopter tail mod:

- Thrust Bearing 3x8x3.5mm (2pcs/bag)

- 3x30mm Sockethead Screw (10pcs/pack)

- Hex locknuts M3 10pc

Flashing SimonK FW tools:
- USBasp AVR Programming Device for ATMEL proccessors

- Atmel Atmega Socket Firmware Flashing Tool

Other Parts:
- 5.6mm x 12mm M3 Nylon Threaded Spacer (10pc)

- M3 Nylon Nut (10pcs/bag)

- M3X10 Nylon Screws (10pcs/bag)

- 2 x TL-242 Thread Locker & Sealant Medium Strength

- Polyester Velcro Peel-n-stick adhesive side V-STRONG (1mtr)

- Peel-n-stick foam tape. 10x5inch 4mm thick

Battery is a LiPo hardcase 11.1 4000 mAh 35C/70C (up to 3C charging) 311 grams

Thanks! :D
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Rotor Riot!
Nice list! You seem to have more than enough stuff to complete your build. I guess you'll get a receiver with the transmitter.

Good luck!
Yep Tx and Rx is together in a package. But there won't be a problem with the motor + ESC + props + Frame? btw already got a computer controlled LiPo charger :)
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Misfit Multirotor Monkey
You said you're going to crash. . .

And with the older V2.1 or 3.0 boards I would have agreed wholeheartedly. However, with a few hours on a sim and the KK2 flashed with 1.5, I'm starting to think the raw beginner could possibly get many hours of flight time under his belt before a crash if the tri is flight worthy from the start.

That's a very comprehensive list. My only suggestion is if you are interested in saving a few bucks, I'd skip the ridiculously overpriced 'socket firmware flashing tool'. You get a cable very close with the USBasp. Then take that money you save and buy a tub of Insta-Moprh and make your own tool in 20 minutes from some wire and some extra pins you have from a spare lead or two. Plus IM can be used in SO many ways for other stuff. Here's the one I made.

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really nice, but i'm kind of lazy and i really don't know where the pads are on the ECS (since i have never held one in my life) so i'm buying the tool so i don't have to create one. I thought about the instamorph, but i thought there was enough new things to learn about in this build already. But i'm still going to buy the instamorph sine it's very usefull :) also i'm going to document the whole buil for other beginners. since i spend 6 months doing research on the topic. This is olso why i'm asking others if it's okay to use these parts :) I don't want to misinform other beginners

Just found this

And the pads are in 3 different locations on the board, so i will have to solder, wich is not a problem since i have been doing that for about 20 years, but then again, i'm lazy :)
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Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Another thing I noticed is the foam you ordered.

I'm assuming you bought it for your FC? Or possibly for a camera down the road? Another option is just use the foam lid from the foam box from the KK2.

I tacked it down with some double stick foam tape and used it. It works great.

yep it was for the FC and camera. but also to put over the MIC hole on the camera (Boscam ExplorerHD (HD19)) to get rid of the wind noise. (don't know if it will work)

Like your build :)
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Misfit Multirotor Monkey
My very first experience with breaking props was when I had everything together and broke the 1st cardinal rule of multi-rotors. I didn't do a complete check of spin direction and gyro setting. I powered it up to barely turning and thought everything was cool. But once it lifted ...just... enough to tilt a few degrees, the roll gyro kicked in and flipped over into a treadmill I had beside it and snapped a prop. :black_eyed:


Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Don't know about the Aurora, although I read they are nice.

I have the DX8, I'm very happy with it. The cardboard box was beat to hell, but it's packed in thick styrofoam, so it was perfectly ok. It also comes with a receiver and telemetry module. My only slight 'complaint' is it has a relatively small display screen. The dirt cheap OrangeRx's work great with them.

Here's how it looked when it came.

Can't wait till next week. Just bought the DX8 at a "local" danish webshop and they will get them in stock next week, so hopefully it will be here at end of next week :) Can't wait

Didn't go for the Aurora sine i got "small" hands and the RCModelReviews said that even with his relativly normal hand he can't move the stick from one extreme to the other. That was what made my mind.

@Cyberdactyl: I envy you sooo much right now... :D
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Misfit Multirotor Monkey
LOL, no worries, with your tenacity. you'll be teaching me stuff a week after you get it.

I've still not used my AR8000 or telemetry module. Up until recently I was using the HK V3.1 board, and had no real confidence, so I'm using the cheap OrangeRx 6ch. Which, by the way works great. I'm using the KK2 now and it's like night and day, especially with 1.5. I HATED screwing with the analog pots!


Rotor Riot!
Hehe that might be a little overboard (me teaching you)

But damn I can't wait till i get my stuff (PayPal hurry up verifying my account details GD! ) :)
I can verify my PayPal account in minutes. The prepaid credit card doesn't have a monthly report - so I just call them and in two minutes I was verified. Maybe you can do this too? Call the bank and ask for your CC activity?
It's not the credit card thats the problem. Suddenly they want proof of who i am and where i live. no problem i thought so i send them a copy my national Bank ID and my Social security ID... and they won't approve it... so F'ed up :( Already called them twice, but the danish support says that they can't help... so typical.!