FT EZ ID?

Mr NCT

Site Moderator
Well.... It flew great in manual mode...

Stabilized.....That did not go well. Several errors on my part and I will see if the logs tell me anything. Error 1) not checking to see if stabilization modes were moving control surfaces in the correct direction. Error 2) Not flying several errors high when engaging stabilized mode. Really no chance to switch back to manual or recover. It went straight up.... and straight down.. . POP!!! Immediate battery disconnect then signal lost on impact, so unlikely it was a failsafe. The radio would have announced it before the POP!

Need to check the FC, FT EZID, and replace RX antenna then test it. Have some other options for "test" birds....

View attachment 243205
Ouch!!
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
Data log shows that the FC commanded full elevator down as soon as switching to FBWA flight mode.... But it definitely went up till it stalled.... Roll and yaw control appear to have worked properly.
1711665188372.png


Remember.... ALWAYS check for proper control deflection in both manual AND stabilized modes before flight...
 

DaveM

CEO Flite Test
Here's an example with data captured by OpenDroneID. Plot on the left is a more typical GPS plot from a different product, plot on the right is from the EZID. It would get it home in an emergency, but would be an unstable hover.
View attachment 243175
Karl, this is curious as ArduPilot supports 5 Hz MSP refresh. Would you agree that a higher MSP refresh rate would smooth the track output above?
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
@DaveM,
That notchyness has nothing to do with sample rate. It is a Precision/resolution issue on the coordinates being output. Possibly dropping the decimal places after the right in a calculation, or a rounding error. Not sure. But it looks as if the data coming from the GPS on the EZID is being changed (losing precision) before it is sent out via RID and MSP.

It's close enough for RID because you are within 5-6 feet, but that makes for very difficult position hold and hovering.
 
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LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
Going to be giving this another go on a Surfer 1500. Similar, but smaller plane, fits in my mobile hanger better (Impreza wagon), and I WILL make sure to check control surface motion in manual AND stabilized first.

Having a hard time getting a replacement antenna for the RP1 ELRS RX. Fortunately my ER5 came with both short and long option antennas so I will use the spare from it. Weather is spotty again this week. Taking Son back to college today.

Hopefully if there is ever a V2 of the EZID, the serial port pad(s) will be larger and spaced to allow for a plug in option (ie servo style connector pins and spacing). Had a heck of a time getting the broken off 28 guage reminants out of the holes after the wires were torn off in the crash. The power connector popped out and was undamaged.
IMG_20240401_141047082.jpg
 
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DaveM

CEO Flite Test
Going to be giving this another go on a Surfer 1500. Similar, but smaller plane, fits in my mobile hanger better (Impreza wagon), and I WILL make sure to check control surface motion in manual AND stabilized first.

Having a hard time getting a replacement antenna for the RP1 ELRS RX. Fortunately my ER5 came with both short and long option antennas so I will use the spare from it. Weather is spotty again this week. Taking Son back to college today.

Hopefully if there is ever a V2 of the EZID, the serial port pad(s) will be larger and spaced to allow for a plug in option (ie servo style connector pins and spacing). Had a heck of a time getting the broken off 28 guage reminants out of the holes after the wires were torn off in the crash. The power connector popped out and was undamaged.
View attachment 243236
You mean 1.27 mm apart is too close? The reason we scrunched things together is there is a ground plane all around the header holes. But... as you know, we only need two of the pins (ground a one UART). I have a wonderful, precision digital soldering station and the 1/2 size pins are too small for me. What I have been doing is soldering the header pins on and then soldering a wire to the header pin. I hear you on using a 2.54 mm (normal) header spacing and size.
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
You mean 1.27 mm apart is too close? The reason we scrunched things together is there is a ground plane all around the header holes. But... as you know, we only need two of the pins (ground a one UART). I have a wonderful, precision digital soldering station and the 1/2 size pins are too small for me. What I have been doing is soldering the header pins on and then soldering a wire to the header pin. I hear you on using a 2.54 mm (normal) header spacing and size.
The real problem is the .1mm spacing between the solder rings. VERY difficult to get rid of a solder bridge. Got it back ready to test. Off to work!
 

DaveM

CEO Flite Test
The real problem is the .1mm spacing between the solder rings. VERY difficult to get rid of a solder bridge. Got it back ready to test. Off to work!
Yes, that’s why I soldered the header pins. I have also used a solder sucker and a copper solder wick to pull solder away from the pads from being bridged. I’m not making excuses. I’m just sharing how I dealt with the issue.
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
Yeah. I would have been fine had it not gone through a brutal crash and ripped all my wires off. I had no problem with the initial soldering. It was when I tried to clean out the stubble that I created a mess. Do you have a link to some header pins or connectors that fit that spacing? I have plenty of female pins and connectors. Just no board side right angle without buying a mass supply or butchering some other board.
 
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DaveM

CEO Flite Test
Yeah. I would have been fine had it not gone through a brutal crash and ripped all my wires off. I had no problem with the initial soldering. It was when I tried to clean out the stubble that I created a mess. Do you have a link to some header pins or connectors that fit that spacing? I have plenty of female pins and connectors. Just no board side right angle without buying a mass supply or butchering some other board.
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
Hmmm. Those are not the ones I was expecting. Have some junk hard drive parts with those on them. :cool: I think for now I will continue as I have direct soldering the TX wire, and the other two pins are the socketed power connector just like I had before. There really is no need for duplicate ground or the RX wire that I had soldered before.
 

DaveM

CEO Flite Test
Hmmm. Those are not the ones I was expecting. Have some junk hard drive parts with those on them. :cool: I think for now I will continue as I have direct soldering the TX wire, and the other two pins are the socketed power connector just like I had before. There really is no need for duplicate ground or the RX wire that I had soldered before.
We recommend wiring the ground in addition to the one UART if you are getting power from a battery that is not grounded to the flight controller.
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
We recommend wiring the ground in addition to the one UART if you are getting power from a battery that is not grounded to the flight controller.
I am getting it from the FC.... GPS uart power is even hot via USB like the RX uart.
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
Arrrrgggghhhhh. Was flying Monday before the eclipse in some funky winds, and took out my next test vehicle when I took my eye off it for a moment. . Really bad weather here this week anyway. May have it glued back together by next week. Still have other options too.
 

DaveM

CEO Flite Test
Arrrrgggghhhhh. Was flying Monday before the eclipse in some funky winds, and took out my next test vehicle when I took my eye off it for a moment. . Really bad weather here this week anyway. May have it glued back together by next week. Still have other options too.
Best of luck with the restoration. We would like to see before and after photos. Dave