Yeh I used simple hobby-grade scrap ply. Nothing fancy. It’s working just fine. The spindly gear really soaks up the bumps so the plate seems to be more than sufficient.
🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗. Sounds like this might be worth waiting for!Just so you all know, You can expect a full release of this later this week. I'm confident that those who really want something a little more "extra" will want to invest their time into this. I know this is a bit cryptic but @SP0NZ , @wilmracer , and @Mid7night know what this is and can share their own input. I'm very excited to share this with everyone.
*sad no 3d printer noises*Ok, I just cannot wait to share this any longer. I’d like to preface this post with the knowledge that a video explaining everything will be coming this week. With that said, start warming up your 3D printer beds…
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Whoa - what??? Actual spoked wheels? That’s amazing!Ok, I just cannot wait to share this any longer. I’d like to preface this post with the knowledge that a video explaining everything will be coming this week. With that said, start warming up your 3D printer beds…
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That is very clever!Ok, I just cannot wait to share this any longer. I’d like to preface this post with the knowledge that a video explaining everything will be coming this week. With that said, start warming up your 3D printer beds…
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Ok, I just cannot wait to share this any longer. I’d like to preface this post with the knowledge that a video explaining everything will be coming this week. With that said, start warming up your 3D printer beds…
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I've tried threading my own wheels before, but boy would it be easier if the rim and hub were already drilled..
Thanks, Carl. I've always been a strong advocate of little details all over to dress up a model and sometimes they are more complex than others. Anyone remember the fully animated cockpit I did on my Corsair? Without going into too much detail yet, yes, they are less than HALF the weight of a commercial wheel and VERY stout. Much like my 1/4 scale Fokker D.VIII, flimsy materials become stronger with angles and the strength gets compounded at that. I do believe that this is one of those cases where people will not really be convinced of this until they handle it and see it in person. I REALLY had a hard time with it myself.So I've seen @willsonman do a LOT of cool, scale features on his models over the years. Many of those were more complicated and time consuming and flashy than this. But I have to tell you I am SO impressed with these. They look PERFECT, they came out lighter than commercial options, and he has obviously thought them out well enough to be repeatable for most of us. I suspect they are also deceptively strong even considering the fact the hub and tire are printed. I understand the aerodynamic reasons WHY spoked wheels were so often covered but it is a damn shame because these are DEAD SEXY!
Cudos to @willsonman for continuing to bring the scale side of the hobby to the masses and show us how to add these kinds of details to our models without breaking the bank. A quick google search turned up a source for assorted spoked WWI wheels for RC models (a place in Germany called Herbie Wheels.) They range in price from $85 - $180 per pair before shipping. At this size I'm guessing about $90/pair, and these look every bit as good and weigh less. My friend, you've outdone yourself this time. Looking forward to the video, and looking even MORE forward to seeing them in person!
@willsonman, how strong are these against a side load?
Wonder if that was a deliberate quote of Gary Fisher (one of the Fathers of the mountain bike). I read somewhere he used to say:That’s a great question. For some context, I’ll describe the assembly a bit. There is a single rim and central hub that are placed in a jig and the lines are run. There are 24 holes on the rim and there is one line from each hole to each side of the hub. This means there are in total 48 lines to keep the rim centered on the hub. After the stringing, the tire is glued to the string up rim and the other half of the rim is then glued into position.
My thought here is that there are a number of factors in the construction that will dictate how well these will take a side load. How much tension do you have on the line after stringing? How adequately did you glue the lines to the central hub? How well did you glue the rims to each other?
Reiterating my previous post, the real strength here comes from the cumulative strength of each part. The TPU tire is pretty stiff but not so stiff that it can’t absorb impacts or energy. The rim on its own is fairly flimsy but the stringing adds rigidity as well as the addition of the other half of the rim after the tire is installed.
The short answer to your question is “it depends” and the long answer is that it will not be consistent from one wheel to another.
The HUGE plus side here is that the wire gear of the Scout XL really does eat up the bumps. That combination with these wheels makes me think things will be fine for this application.
Certainly adding steel beading wire will add some strength here but to what extent over the 65 pound test fishing line? Really, the print is going to fail long before the lines. Could you make the print thicker? Sure but to what extent would that stiffen things from side loads? No idea. Whenever you do a scale item, you compromise three things, strength, cost, and weight. You usually only get two. With these wheels we are focusing more on cost and weight rather than strength. They are certainly “strong enough” for an average 1/6 scale model. My 54 ounce Tummelisa is 1/6 scale and the same weight as the projected balsa version. I have no reservations about this wheel at that size.