FT-Viggen Review

Jcrankshaw

Junior Member
So I finally figured out how to print the hot wire template... big question is how many mm apart should each piece be from each other. Like piece DD is closer to E than say FF is to G. Can someone clarify that...I would think that would be pretty important.
 

lankyjames

New member
Just epic build - going over to the folks with a car-boot(trunk) full of foamboad for my dad to build the Viggen, even picked up some black board at almost twice the cost of white (UK prices are £4 for white, £7 for black, 3for2), should be an interesting build and our first EDF. I'm off to finish my FT Bloody Wonder (my second plane after the Bixler v1.1), while Dad's gone crazy and in the last week built an F-22, spitfire and a mustang from modified spitfire plans.

I've managed to source a printer that can do the sticker sheet for £48 + postage, he wants to do minimum of 5 prints to make it worthwhile - would anyone be interested?
 

rcspaceflight

creator of virtual planes
This are 40 sheets of paper glued together. I want to glue it on and then cover with clear PU-Paint.

It might be better to peel off the paper from the foam board, glue on your printed paper, and then cut out the pieces. The glue would make it hard to peel out the strips of foam for A and B folds, but you'd only want to do one side, cut out all of the pieces, and then glue the design on the other side. So with some planning it could be relatively easy. By removing the foam board paper and replacing it with your own, it wouldn't weight too much more but would be a lot stronger because of the thin layer of glue.

But you might be doing that anyway. I'm mostly pointing this out for future reference to others.
 

F1wanabe

Member
So I finally figured out how to print the hot wire template... big question is how many mm apart should each piece be from each other. Like piece DD is closer to E than say FF is to G. Can someone clarify that...I would think that would be pretty important.
Hey Crankchaw.
 

hotwax

Active member
It might be better to peel off the paper from the foam board, glue on your printed paper, and then cut out the pieces. The glue would make it hard to peel out the strips of foam for A and B folds, but you'd only want to do one side, cut out all of the pieces, and then glue the design on the other side. So with some planning it could be relatively easy. By removing the foam board paper and replacing it with your own, it wouldn't weight too much more but would be a lot stronger because of the thin layer of glue.

But you might be doing that anyway. I'm mostly pointing this out for future reference to others.

I think you are right, when using Adams board. My board comes from Amsterdam by foamboarden. de. The paper sticks really hard. I tried with different paints, alcohol and pure thinner with no sign of the paper peeling off.

I will use the glue that I normaly use for binding books. It's called Planatol Elasta. I will report.
 

F1wanabe

Member
Ok i deleted post. I know who he is though just sounded crapy thats all

Haha, ReDeYe, I was totally joking, but I can see how it sounded if you thought I was serious. No Problem! I could have added a smiley. In fact, I just did! I ended up printing the tiled plans and will be cutting tomorrow. Tonight is Valentine's Day the wife has precedence.
 

Jcrankshaw

Junior Member
Can someone post what each hotwire piece looks like? A bit confused how the plans don't have cut outs in the middle of parts E and G
 

Foam Addict

Squirrel member
I would strongly recommend that 4 cell 3000, especially at high altitudes.
That is a great combo, but I had some issues with it on 3 cells at my altitude.
 

odie_wan

Junior Member
Just got my speed build kit this past weekend. I'm about 50% done. I ordered the Grayson EDF power systems but it's not here yet.

I did happen to have a 70mm RCLander EDF which I know makes massive amounts of thrust. I used it on a Hobby King Dassault Alfa with 6s setup. It's probably a bit heavy for this bird, but we'll see.

I am contemplating retracts, but it will take some engineering to pull it off.

Does anyone have an all up weight for this with the EDF setup?
 

ReDeYe

Member
Mine came in at 26.93 oz with a 2200 4cell wemotec 70mm. 2 9gm servos. When i put my 4 cell 3200 it jumped to 29.50

Just got my speed build kit this past weekend. I'm about 50% done. I ordered the Grayson EDF power systems but it's not here yet.

I did happen to have a 70mm RCLander EDF which I know makes massive amounts of thrust. I used it on a Hobby King Dassault Alfa with 6s setup. It's probably a bit heavy for this bird, but we'll see.

I am contemplating retracts, but it will take some engineering to pull it off.

Does anyone have an all up weight for this with the EDF setup?
 

F1wanabe

Member
I purchased the following 64mm combo pack for under $40:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-64mm-edf-combo.html

What is the best recommendation for battery - 4 cell or 3 cell?
Will it handle a 3000 mah 4s 40c?

Help???
Spartf16, There are a couple things to consider about what size battery you should use.
First: Can the system take 4s? I believe the answer is yes and 40c should be fine.
2nd: CG is so important on an EDF! If you have to use up trim, a large proportion of thrust goes to overcoming the drag of your control surfaces. Ideally, I like to pull back CG to avoid any up trim. On a delta canard plane like this you can't go back too far since the plane can very quickly feel tail heavy.
3. How much weight do you need on the nose to balance out the EDF? The key to EDF's is to balance the CG properly with a minimum of weight. On prop planes you usually have gobs of extra ounces of thrust to play with. On edfs, this usually isn't the case. Using a large battery for long flight time raises weight to the point where you may spend a lot of time at 80 % or 90% throttle, which ends up cutting flight time. I found a good balance with my Mig with a 64mm EDF using a 2200 4s 40c, It provided the proper cg, allowed me to get very good vertical performance when I wanted it, but also allowed me to tool around at 50% throttle which gave me up to a 7 1/2 min flight time. I tried a 3000 4s and flight time increased only marginally as the edf struggled at 80 % throttle to push the extra weight.

So, If you can get the plane balanced properly with minimum up trim and weight then you will be able to maximize the thrust available, which also maximizes the flight time.

Oh, and a final point I found out early on. A cheap 70mm combo often can out perform a more expensive 64mm. A typical 64mm 4s system will produce up to 35 oz thrust. A cheapo 70mm 4s system will do 40 oz thrust easy.
 
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wense

Junior Member
Viggen maiden didn't go so well

My maiden flight with the FT Viggen didn't go so well as I expected :-( Think my Tx is set up all wrong.. Can you advice me to how the Expos and so forth are supposed to be dialed in??

And well.. it took some major damage to the body as well as the nose, but hey.. Its all reparable ;-)

Regards,
Lars from Denmark

https://vimeo.com/88709783