FT What Did You Do RC Today : Caution Offtopic At All Times

Mr_Stripes

Elite member
Making the 1/10 Slash 2WD more driveable in the yard when the grass isn't extra short. Should work at the field and a few other places too. Picked up some wider/taller tires, adjusted the ride height up a scosch, and am going to paint up a Jconcepts BAJR body rather than butchering the stock body. Testing in the long grass of the yard has been very positive! Just need to do the body and it will be golden.
My 4 yr old redcat 1/10 has a body that has major breakage in 2 places and minor cracks all over. I couldnt be bothered to buy another 30$ boy for it when I could get a whole load of fp stuff that I would use a lot more.

(yes, htat's a boring NiMH in it, but I do have a LiPo too!)

I have 2 ovonic 2s 5200mah lipos. Like 15 bucks on amazon. I think they stopped selling them with xt60 and only have deans now but you could solder whatever connector on it.

1 more suggestion for you: Put a little aio camera on it. It is so much fun.
 

Wildthing

Legendary member
Haha same! I might upgrade to the cvds so it can handle my 3s lipos. is yours 2wd or 4x4?
I run the Velineon brushless setup and run on 3S also and it is insane. I run wheelie bars just to try and keep the nose down, I can do wheelies at 30mph easily . I did try the improved metal driveshafts but they robbed way to much power because of their weight. I keep tons of plastic axles on hand and really I don't go through that many .
 
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Mr_Stripes

Elite member
Stayed up till 2AM...literally...putting my Magnum 30 on Speedyboi in an attempt to see if 4-stroke power is viable. Attempted to fly today. Weather couldn't have been better! However I......pretty much wasted my time. A bunch of asshats with giant scale 3D birds were literally congalining the damn runway. 2-3 of them in the air at the same time doing their spaztastic nonsense and as soon as one landed to refuel another was already on the start pad getting the engine fired up. Was there for four hours only got 10 minutes of lazy high-altitude circuits around the flight pattern.

Not only was this annoying as hell, but it also made me nearly total Speedyboi. See, that little Magnum 30 is a hell of an engine, but something in the rushed last-second engine swap didn't gel right. I wasn't getting more than about 8500RPM on a 9-7-3 prop in flight, so I had to keep it PINNED just to keep it in the air. Plane flew great otherwise. I don't know if the problem is linkage, if the engine just doesn't have the balls, if it's disagreeing with that prop, or some combination of the three, but it just did not have any power. And because I'm having to do 150'+ height lazy flight pattern circuits to clear the 3-4 air hogs spazzing out over the runway I can't get a feel for how to land the thing with so little power. I had to just wing it in a 30 second window while one was starting their engine and the others were running their fuel pumps. I ended up stalling it at waist height, dropping the piano, bouncing it almost back to its same height, and dropping the piano again. It missed hitting the chainlink fence guarding the pilots by about half an inch, stalled the engine out in the process.


Speedyboi is a portly li'l thing, so he took the hits in stride. No damage. But still. I had no chance to feel out what throttle setting I should use for final and touchdown because these damned 3D pilots were doing their spazzy 'I don't know why I even have wings on the plane' nonsense.

Needless to say my already indifferent attitude towards 3D flight has taken a sharp decline. It's getting hard for me to not give anyone grief over what they fly when a certain type of flyer enacts a hostile takeover of the damn field and blocks out anyone else from flying. I wasn't the only one frustrated by it either; nobody was saying it but I could just see the looks on the faces of the other pilots that wanted to fly something not an Edge or Extra or Yak. Homey two tables down from me had an Avanti and A-10 EDF; he was there before I was and he only got one flight on the Avanti in the time I was there before he shook his head, packed up, left.

I probably could have waited the 3D spaz show out but I found myself getting so damn grumpy about the air hogging that I wouldn't be able to enjoy the time in flight when I finally got it, so I just said -beep- it and left myself. Maybe I'll try again tomorrow maybe not.
Give them each a crummy airhogs toy and tell them you are what you fly
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
Extra long unmowed grass test with half charged NiMH

Funny how it was barely able to drive on the freshly cut extra short grass before. :-D

I'll have to do another with the LiPo. It can get air jumping the corner curb and driveway. EGADs did it push with the GoPro weight so far back. LOL
 
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Tench745

Master member
Extra long unmowed grass test with half charged NiMH

Funny how it was barely able to drive on the freshly cut extra short grass before. :-D

I'll have to do another with the LiPo. It can get air jumping the corner curb and driveway. EGADs did it push with the GoPro weight so far back. LOL
Private video.
 

danskis

Master member
I you haven't built one yet I can't emphasize enough how much fun the Little Stik is. It probably doesn't matter which version you build. Plenty of power on a 2835 (C pack) and a 3S battery with a 1060 prop. Kinda like a bloody baron but less twitchy.
 

Taildragger

Legendary member
Extra long unmowed grass test with half charged NiMH

Funny how it was barely able to drive on the freshly cut extra short grass before. :-D

I'll have to do another with the LiPo. It can get air jumping the corner curb and driveway. EGADs did it push with the GoPro weight so far back. LOL
Part of your driving in grass problem might be the lcg chassis causing more friction imo. I can run through pretty deep grass with my stock slash 2wd. I do have the lcg chassis on my 4x4, and I have noticed even with its brushless power and 4wd it handles grass about the same as the 2wd.
 

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Mentor
Part of your driving in grass problem might be the lcg chassis causing more friction imo. I can run through pretty deep grass with my stock slash 2wd. I do have the lcg chassis on my 4x4, and I have noticed even with its brushless power and 4wd it handles grass about the same as the 2wd.
I switched out the chassis when I went from track driving to bashing and it really made a difference in grass!
 

JennyC6

Elite member
Something many 3D pilots seem not to know is that contrary to popular belief, 3D airplanes can also be flown in a pattern at altitude. :)
I have found myself the new owner of a 40-size CAP 232 airframe. I don't do 3D, but hey, free airplane is free. And if I didn't take it it was gonna get smashed and trashed. So hey.


Gonna throw my Enya 45 on it most likely, set it up more like a Red Bull Air Racer. Prop it for speed rather than hovering. Show these guys that the wings on these aircraft are there for more than making it look airplane-ey.

The prop certainly has something to do with it. The manual recommends a 9x7 2-blade as the steepest in the 9-inch range so I can see why a 3-blade would load it down a bit. I doubt you'll get much better results with a different prop though; I doubt the engine really has the oomph to haul the plane with the authority you'd want it to.
It was a bit of an experiment, a shot in the dark. That little thing is a powerhouse for its size. I will look into things more over the day tomorrow and maybe take it back down there Sunday.
Though it begs the question, do you get better results with that engine and prop combo on the bench? If you do, something else in there is playing up.


It can swing a 10-6 at 10,000RPM on the bench. It can only get something around 8k or so on a 9-7-3 in flight. The difference in load between the two props should not be enough to account for that large of an RPM drop; the engine should be able to pull that plane around just fine with this setup. Definitely not enough power to prophang it but that wasn't the case on the old H-40P either nor is that even what I want out of it!


Well, that, and I know the linkage is wonky because when I got it back to the start stand I watched the throttle arm moving and could nudge it quite a bit further open after the servo stopped pulling. I think the throttle rod is binding on something and stretching. It's Z shaped and running alongside the fuel tank; the foam in there might be too tight?

I can run a 10" prop on Speedyboi but the ground clearance is so tight you're measuring it with feeler gauges at that point. If I flew off grass 10" props would be off limits.


I picked up a $35 OS 25FX that runs ok when I hit the LHS today. I might try once again with flying Speedyboi on the Magnum 30....I was up there with it pinned for 10 minutes and only used about a third of a tank!...but if I can't get that little thumper to pull that plane with enough authority to do loops and cuban eights I'll swap the 25FX in.

I really wish I could get the rear main out of the H-40P. That engine, on a 9-7-3, in that airplane, is a match made in heaven and that stubbornly welded in rear main bearing is the only thing keeping me from completing the overhaul I started. I might just have to find a local machinist willing to get in there with an endmill and turn the old bearing into confetti just so I can get the new one slid in there; already have the front main and the ring replaced.

I've been thinking about my own Magnum engine though. I looked at some footage I took of it flying the other day and the prop whirring sound doesn't sound exactly... like a propeller. I really hope it isn't a bearing going bad. Perhaps a 3-blade just has a different sound that I'm not familiar with.

yeh no that's a bearing that isn't turning anymore.


That's what yours should sound like as well. Same engine, same prop, pretty sure we're even running the same plug and nitro %.
 
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JennyC6

Elite member
The prop certainly has something to do with it. The manual recommends a 9x7 2-blade as the steepest in the 9-inch range so I can see why a 3-blade would load it down a bit. I doubt you'll get much better results with a different prop though; I doubt the engine really has the oomph to haul the plane with the authority you'd want it to. Though it begs the question, do you get better results with that engine and prop combo on the bench? If you do, something else in there is playing up.
more Ithought about it the more I decided to go outside and ground test it with a tach in hand. We are both correct.

I am correct in that the wonky throttle is preventing me from getting all of my carb travel. I was only getting about 7500RPM or so. I am also correct in thinking this engine can handle the 9-7-3; when I manually opened the throttle the rest of the way it zinged right up to about 9200RPM. Stopped the engine, swapped the 10-6-2 back on, peak RPM was about 9500. That difference seems to account nicely for the difference in load between the two props.


I also had static thrust measuring active. The best I got was 2lbs. the plane weighs three. So you were still correct in that this little Magnum...as much of an overachiever as it is...just isn't up to pulling aerobatics. It will fly Speedyboi and I could probably convince it to do loops, do cuban eights, if I fixed the throttle linkage...but only barely. 0.66:1 thrust/weight ratio is not right on a pattern ship.


Whoever built this thing went ham on the basswood and skimped heavily on the balsa. Speedyboi is built like a tank. Something this size really shouldn't weigh three pounds, but alas, Speedyboi does. No wonder it flew so well on a 40.


I will probably swap a 25FX onto it for now. A Saito 40 would probably be perfection on this thing swinging a 10-5-3, but for now, this 25FX will have to do. Even that presents an issue or two, though; the 25FX is one of those junk bin specials from my LHS and the LSN is so badly gummed up that I broke two screwdriver tips trying to set it before I test ran it. It transitions okay but the mix is off in the rhubarb down low. Takes literally about 10-15 seconds to settle into a proper idle, stumbles when coming off that idle. Super super super super super snappy if you crack it back open before it settles in. runs great up top though.

Can't go buying a $200 engine for Speedyboi right now though. I'm planning on buying a 110" wingspan B-24 Liberator ARF with FOUR Saito 40s on it. That build has my budget tied up for a long time; will be somewhere around 3,000 dollars before it flies. Man alive itt'l be something else to see and hear that thing in the skies above Edgewater though......
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
Part of your driving in grass problem might be the lcg chassis causing more friction imo. I can run through pretty deep grass with my stock slash 2wd. I do have the lcg chassis on my 4x4, and I have noticed even with its brushless power and 4wd it handles grass about the same as the 2wd.
Yeah, without a doubt the LCG was part of the problem, but not any more. I would much rather have the LCG than not.
 

speedbirdted

Legendary member
yeh no that's a bearing that isn't turning anymore.


That's what yours should sound like as well. Same engine, same prop, pretty sure we're even running the same plug and nitro %.

I thought it might have been a bearing getting a little upset. Weirdly though when I was rebuilding the thing with the new crank, I took the bearings out just to check if they were still useable (the thing did fail catastrophically...) and they seemed to have nothing wrong with them. Both spun freely and had no slop in them so they went back in. Even spinning the prop around by hand it feels buttery smooth, and I can yank and pull the crank any which way, not even a Planck length of play in there. And you'd think if it had a failed bearing it wouldn't run exactly as well as it did before, except it does, with the exception of making weird noises. I would also think that if there was a bearing that was not doing its job in there, there would be lots of black metal shaving crap in what comes out of the crankcase vent; but that isn't the case and never has been.

The other idea I have is the camshaft bearings are the ones playing up. I don't know why they would though because they see much less strain, but no bearing is 100% reliable so I suppose it could happen. The little cam bearings is an aspect I like more on Saito mills than OS ones; Saitos have camshaft bushings instead which work perfectly in that application. I've even heard said that bushings run with less friction when under the comparatively low loads that supporting a cam imposes, but I've never seen any actual data supporting that. (And I'm really not sure how you'd test it, outside of building an entirely external test rig)

Either way I think I'll throw new bearings at it just to be on the safe side. They're not terribly expensive and will just make the engine last longer. And I've got to strip the crankcase bare to get the remnants of the broken vent nipple out anyhow. Now I'm wondering if the same bearings that go in the OS 52 Surpass will also fit into the crankcase of this...

Can't go buying a $200 engine for Speedyboi right now though. I'm planning on buying a 110" wingspan B-24 Liberator ARF with FOUR Saito 40s on it. That build has my budget tied up for a long time; will be somewhere around 3,000 dollars before it flies. Man alive itt'l be something else to see and hear that thing in the skies above Edgewater though......

VQ models? I saw one of those at a warbird meetup last year. The guy stripped the whole thing bare and covered it in flite metal and it looked sharp. Added all sorts of scale details, full lighting, moving turrets, fully scaled out cockpits (even the turret interiors!) I seem to remember it even had functional trim tabs; the trim on the radio moved the tab instead of the whole surface! He even did a high pass and dropped a bunch of candy out of it; the kids there loved it. I don't know exactly what engines he used (maybe Laser 70s) but it was intentionally overpowered so it could cruise around at 5000 rpm with the most scale sound you'd ever heard. Unfortunately I neglected to catch his name but I think there's a thread for it on RCSB. (I'll link it if I can find it)

Funnily enough at my club's swap meet fairly recently there was a pristine condition circa-1976 vintage 90" Jack Stafford B-24 kit being sold by someone. I was tempted to buy it but luckily someone else nabbed it before I had the chance to push the limits of my building area that badly. I think if I got that I'd power it with a quartet of OS 25s or 30 Surpasses. I think it was originally designed to fly on Veco 19s. Spare power in the pocket, but you can always throttle back...
 
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JennyC6

Elite member
I thought it might have been a bearing getting a little upset. Weirdly though when I was rebuilding the thing with the new crank, I took the bearings out just to check if they were still useable (the thing did fail catastrophically...) and they seemed to have nothing wrong with them. Both spun freely and had no slop in them so they went back in. Even spinning the prop around by hand it feels buttery smooth, and I can yank and pull the crank any which way, not even a Planck length of play in there. And you'd think if it had a failed bearing it wouldn't run exactly as well as it did before, except it does, with the exception of making weird noises. I would also think that if there was a bearing that was not doing its job in there, there would be lots of black metal shaving crap in what comes out of the crankcase vent; but that isn't the case and never has been.
You never gave the cam bearings a good close looking, did ya? If it was a main bearing you'da felt something up with it when you assembled it, and it probably wouldn't run worth a crap because it'd bind up and die.


I don't know why they would though because they see much less strain, but no bearing is 100% reliable so I suppose it could happen.
They also see a LOT less oil. Very problematic and a constaint failure mode on these little 4-strokes because they like to corrode.

Something else I'd check is to make sure that little spacer is in there behind the drive washer. It could be as simple as that spacer got left on the build table and the drive washer is trying to self-clearance itself on the case or the front main or somethin'.

The little cam bearings is an aspect I like more on Saito mills than OS ones; Saitos have camshaft bushings instead which work perfectly in that application. I've even heard said that bushings run with less friction when under the comparatively low loads that supporting a cam imposes, but I've never seen any actual data supporting that. (And I'm really not sure how you'd test it, outside of building an entirely external test rig)
What it is, is those bushings don't corrode. As I mentioned a bit earlier, these cam bearings are horrible about that because they don't get a very reliable supply of oil like the mains do(Particularly the rear main that almost never fails on these engines)

Either way I think I'll throw new bearings at it just to be on the safe side. They're not terribly expensive and will just make the engine last longer. And I've got to strip the crankcase bare to get the remnants of the broken vent nipple out anyhow. Now I'm wondering if the same bearings that go in the OS 52 Surpass will also fit into the crankcase of this...


I get my bearings off BOCA. Good stuff. good price.


VQ models? I saw one of those at a warbird meetup last year. The guy stripped the whole thing bare and covered it in flite metal and it looked sharp. Added all sorts of scale details, full lighting, moving turrets, fully scaled out cockpits (even the turret interiors!) I seem to remember it even had functional trim tabs; the trim on the radio moved the tab instead of the whole surface! He even did a high pass and dropped a bunch of candy out of it; the kids there loved it. I don't know exactly what engines he used (maybe Laser 70s) but it was intentionally overpowered so it could cruise around at 5000 rpm with the most scale sound you'd ever heard. Unfortunately I neglected to catch his name but I think there's a thread for it on RCSB. (I'll link it if I can find it)
Yeah VQ. A lot of that is factory too, and they sell a ready-to-cover version. I bet that's the one that guy got.

Mine will use Saito 40s.

I've had ideations of dropping live tinywhoops out of the bomb bay of mine. Get 5 or 6 of 'em in there. Be a really bloody awesome way to start a daytime drone race at FPVFest even.
 

mrjdstewart

Legendary member
looks like i won the bid and have found my summer project. never built a full balsa kit up before so this promises to be a learning experience. :LOL:

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any tips or pointers are always appreciated.

laters,

me :cool:
 

JennyC6

Elite member
I pulled the trigger on what's likely going to be the biggest build in my hangar for a LONG time.

1x VQ Models B-24 Liberator(Silver)

1x Robart scale retract set for above

1x scale bombload for above

5x Saito FA-40

Flying that thing above Edgewater...man it's gonna happen. Hopefully this year at FPVFest, if not, then next year. But mark my words I will fly this thing above Edgewater Airpark at some point.
looks like i won the bid and have found my summer project. never built a full balsa kit up before so this promises to be a learning experience. :LOL:

View attachment 198963

View attachment 198964

any tips or pointers are always appreciated.

laters,

me :cool:
Build it light, build it straight, take your time. And try to make seams between sheets of covering face aft so the airstream can't easily get underneath and lift it later on.

Also, build it so you could go GP or EP with it. Don't know what you are planning on putting on it but there's no reason you can't fly that either or so it'd be nice to have an airframe on hand that can take a glow swap nice and easy as well as fly on brushless nice and easy.