I have made new motor mounts that holds the motor better and are easier to change if broken, no zip ties needed.
All files for 3d printing can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:163794
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Knuckle H-Quad
- Thread starter fliteadmin
- Start date
I have made new motor mounts that holds the motor better and are easier to change if broken, no zip ties needed.
All files for 3d printing can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:163794
What does your power supply look like?
Do I see two lipos wired in series?
Do I see two lipos wired in series?
Sure looks like it unless the second pack is a dedicated FPV supply...
WOW, two 2200mAh batteries. What is your all up weight and flight times? Is the copter still acrobatic?
I finally re-built my Bumbler Bee Knuckle I quad. I wanted a small acrobatic quad and chose the Knuckle H Quad by Flite Test. The basic model comes with four 10" long by 1/2" square booms. I wanted a smaller quad so I cut the center rails down to 8" and turned the FCB to make the copter an I quad.
This build turned out to be VERY quick. I put most of the electronic components inside the hub ensuring the bulk of the weight is in the center of the copter. This thing has yaw like my bat-bone tri-copter.
It had one big flaw. The center rails and the knuckles are in the thrust column. This inefficiency is felt in the throttle and when you really crank the throttle, the vibrations can cause the KK2 to get lost and do funky stuff.
I wanted to rebuild but I did not want to make the motor booms longer, because I want a small quad. I chose to push the center rails together to make an I beam thereby getting them and the knuckles out of the thrust column and putting even more weight in the center of the copter.
The original build put the ESCs inside the center hub with VERY limited airflow. For the new build, I mounted the ESCs on the outside edge of the center hub and zip tied the top plate to the bottom plate over the ESCs to make a sandwich. This sandwich is reinforced with zip ties on the corners that pinch the center plates together making for a very solid center hub. This was done to reinforce the center hub and eliminate any torsional inefficiency caused by placing the rails together.
Lastly, I installed eight 5V LED lights http://www.altitudehobbies.com/part...and-accessories/scale-led-lighting-system-kit. At this time of year, when I leave in the morning for work, it is dark. When I get home at 16:30 it is already too dark to fly without lights to keep orientation.
I test flew it this morning after I pushed last night's dusting of snow out of the way. I am using 'maiden' props which are props that I do my maiden flights with. These props have been on the maiden voyage of 6 or 7 builds now and are dented, bent and buzz like heck but they fly and I don't weep when I do something stupid and the copter flips on launch into a concrete flower pot.
It still needs some motor/rotor balancing but she flies and she hovers at <> 6% less throttle!
This build is the:
Knuckle H Quad from FliteTest http://shop.flitetest.com/multirotors/knuckle-h-quad-370-kit/
Suppo 2208 1450kv motors from Altitude http://www.altitudehobbies.com/brushless-motors/suppo-motors/brushless-motor-370-28-26-1450kv-suppo-2208-14
IPeaka 22A ESCs from Altitude http://www.altitudehobbies.com/ipeaka-iq-multicopter-esc-simonk/ipeaka-22a-brushless-multicopter-esc-simonk
The HobbyKing KK2.0 (you can't get anymore so the link is to the newer and better model) http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__49254__Hobbyking_KK2_1_Multi_rotor_LCD_Flight_Control_Board_With_6050MPU_And_Atmel_644PA.html
And a Zippy 3S 2200mAh 40C battery http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9942__ZIPPY_Flightmax_2200mAh_3S1P_40C.html
This build turned out to be VERY quick. I put most of the electronic components inside the hub ensuring the bulk of the weight is in the center of the copter. This thing has yaw like my bat-bone tri-copter.
It had one big flaw. The center rails and the knuckles are in the thrust column. This inefficiency is felt in the throttle and when you really crank the throttle, the vibrations can cause the KK2 to get lost and do funky stuff.
I wanted to rebuild but I did not want to make the motor booms longer, because I want a small quad. I chose to push the center rails together to make an I beam thereby getting them and the knuckles out of the thrust column and putting even more weight in the center of the copter.
The original build put the ESCs inside the center hub with VERY limited airflow. For the new build, I mounted the ESCs on the outside edge of the center hub and zip tied the top plate to the bottom plate over the ESCs to make a sandwich. This sandwich is reinforced with zip ties on the corners that pinch the center plates together making for a very solid center hub. This was done to reinforce the center hub and eliminate any torsional inefficiency caused by placing the rails together.
Lastly, I installed eight 5V LED lights http://www.altitudehobbies.com/part...and-accessories/scale-led-lighting-system-kit. At this time of year, when I leave in the morning for work, it is dark. When I get home at 16:30 it is already too dark to fly without lights to keep orientation.
I test flew it this morning after I pushed last night's dusting of snow out of the way. I am using 'maiden' props which are props that I do my maiden flights with. These props have been on the maiden voyage of 6 or 7 builds now and are dented, bent and buzz like heck but they fly and I don't weep when I do something stupid and the copter flips on launch into a concrete flower pot.
It still needs some motor/rotor balancing but she flies and she hovers at <> 6% less throttle!
This build is the:
Knuckle H Quad from FliteTest http://shop.flitetest.com/multirotors/knuckle-h-quad-370-kit/
Suppo 2208 1450kv motors from Altitude http://www.altitudehobbies.com/brushless-motors/suppo-motors/brushless-motor-370-28-26-1450kv-suppo-2208-14
IPeaka 22A ESCs from Altitude http://www.altitudehobbies.com/ipeaka-iq-multicopter-esc-simonk/ipeaka-22a-brushless-multicopter-esc-simonk
The HobbyKing KK2.0 (you can't get anymore so the link is to the newer and better model) http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__49254__Hobbyking_KK2_1_Multi_rotor_LCD_Flight_Control_Board_With_6050MPU_And_Atmel_644PA.html
And a Zippy 3S 2200mAh 40C battery http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9942__ZIPPY_Flightmax_2200mAh_3S1P_40C.html
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no problem -- pic looks pretty clear Hasi!
Looks like it will hold pretty well, but might I suggest you turn the ziptie 90 degrees so the tail comes out horizontal? that final pull to get the last bit of strength is along the height of the boom, not the width, and you'd want the highest compression on the tie to be along the width.
You'll pick up a lot more prop thump with this mount (vibration from the prop wash hitting the boom), but this is a good start to a low profile build. What's your AUW (all-up weight) at?
Looks like it will hold pretty well, but might I suggest you turn the ziptie 90 degrees so the tail comes out horizontal? that final pull to get the last bit of strength is along the height of the boom, not the width, and you'd want the highest compression on the tie to be along the width.
You'll pick up a lot more prop thump with this mount (vibration from the prop wash hitting the boom), but this is a good start to a low profile build. What's your AUW (all-up weight) at?
AUW with 2200mah 3S and FPV is 524g. Flight time around 15min. After some tests, the mounts didn't really hold well. I'll try to rotate the zipties 90° but if that doesn't work, I might have to come up with some alternatives.
edit. I tried it, but didn't work. I wish I could weld aluminium. I'm open to suggestions.
edit2. I scrolled up a bit and saw tophe75's mount. I did the same with mine and now they hold rock solid.
edit. I tried it, but didn't work. I wish I could weld aluminium. I'm open to suggestions.
edit2. I scrolled up a bit and saw tophe75's mount. I did the same with mine and now they hold rock solid.
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bummer. I'm assuming it failed by the motor slipping out upward? (not the ziptie slipping off) couple of ideas:
- cut the grove wider so you can squeeze the mount tighter.
- score the corners to make them rougher -- it keeps the ziptie from slipping off, which the 1st idea will make more likely.
- when loose there should be no play in the motor -- it should be easy to slide out, but by no means floppy.
If *ALL* else fails, go back to the stock X-mounts and zip-tie two of the mount's arms to the boom. not as clean, but it would work
- cut the grove wider so you can squeeze the mount tighter.
- score the corners to make them rougher -- it keeps the ziptie from slipping off, which the 1st idea will make more likely.
- when loose there should be no play in the motor -- it should be easy to slide out, but by no means floppy.
If *ALL* else fails, go back to the stock X-mounts and zip-tie two of the mount's arms to the boom. not as clean, but it would work
Yes, the motor slipped out upward.
1) I tried this, but not much difference.
2) The zipties stayed on well
3) I think this is the main problem. I don't have a drill press and the holes, well they were not round at all.
I ended up doing the same as tophe75. I held the mounts together with screws, which now hold rock solid.
1) I tried this, but not much difference.
2) The zipties stayed on well
3) I think this is the main problem. I don't have a drill press and the holes, well they were not round at all.
I ended up doing the same as tophe75. I held the mounts together with screws, which now hold rock solid.
With all the gear on, including FPV stuff and NO batteries, 650g.
With the two 2200mAh 3S it comes to 970g.
Have not tried aerobatics (as I am not that good) but it hovers at 1/3 of the throttle so it has plenty of power left.
About flight time, I have't really pushed it but with one battery it is around 5 minutes.
engmanredbeard
Junior Member
Does an 'I' quad need to be square? I know that a 'I' quad is basically a 'X' quad with a different frame. Just finished assembling my first 'I' quad and I noticed that the width from motor center to motor center is 10" and length from boom to boom is 12". Does this rectangle shape affect performance? Will it roll faster then pitch? Are there settings in the KK2.1 that will need to be set differently?
You'll just have to tune pitch and roll differently on the KK2, other than that not much difference.
That's crazy. I use a single 2200mah 3s and can fly for 15mins+.
That is an insanely long flight time for most all builds. You obviously did well with your build.
Thurmond
IamNabil
Senior Member
Halford
Junior Member
indeed. I was just trying to build it as they did for some easy fpv. a small platform to bring with me and that if it crashes it's easily repaired. I'ld like to add a gopro and my 5.8 backpack on it... but if I follow the suggested electronics in the store ecalc gives me a warning... is it just in case of maximum hard usage I guess...
