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Master Series Corsair Power Pod Issues, Power Pack C Motor Shaft Issue

#1
Welp, ran into more issues while building my speed build Corsair. The power pack C I ordered came with a motor with a shaft on the same side as the x-mount, and I don't know if I can swap it around. The power pod is very tiny, a 4s 2200 takes up the entire space and there is no room left for the ESC, and the tolerance for the power pod where it slides in though the cowling is so tight I am going to have to shave it down, a lot.
 

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PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
Mentor
#2
Not sure about your foam issues as too many variables are involved with building.

The motor however is fine. I believe what you think is the motor shaft where the prop goes is there as a counter balance.

The four holes on the other side are where you mount the prop adapter meant for your application. I believe there is an adapter that comes with the motor as well as the "X" mount bracket. If it did not you will need to contact support to get that resolved.
 

Merv

Well-known member
#3
The power pack C I ordered came with a motor with a shaft on the same side as the x-mount, and I don't know if I can swap it around.
Yes, a motor shaft can be turned around. I’ve done it many times. You will need to grind flat spot for the bell to engage and a new slot for the snap ring. I use a dermel with the 409 cutoff wheel. The heavy duty 420 cutoff wheel is too thick.
 

JTarmstr

Well-known member
#4
Welp, ran into more issues while building my speed build Corsair. The power pack C I ordered came with a motor with a shaft on the same side as the x-mount, and I don't know if I can swap it around. The power pod is very tiny, a 4s 2200 takes up the entire space and there is no room left for the ESC, and the tolerance for the power pod where it slides in though the cowling is so tight I am going to have to shave it down, a lot.
I ran into this same issue building my mustang almost a year ago. There should be a small hex head screw driver. Use that to remove the 4 metal screws and then attach the other head (the one with the shaft on it) with the hex screws.


EDIT: Here is a photo, it may help visualize.
P1200240.JPG
 
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Craftydan

Hostage Taker of Quads
Staff member
Moderator
Mentor
#5
When you are done attaching the other direct drive head JT mentions, your pod will look a bit like this:


20190309_201440.jpg

The motor shaft will be sticking through the firewall, so you'll need to protect the battery. I cut two squares out of the packing foam FT shipped with, cut a corner for the wires to pass and a circle out for the shaft and glued them in using gorilla glue (don't use hot glue -- this foam melts easy). The block should look like this:
20190309_201940.jpg
 

FDS

Well-known member
#6
As for the ESC I have had a similar problem in the swappable pod, I mounted the ESC underneath the power pod and extended the wires so I could get the plugs in. It now sits in the void beneath the pod, on the outer fuselage surface. You get to it by removing the power pod and fishing it out the front.
 
#7
Thanks for the advice, I got it all together with a little artistic license. Wasn't exactly sure how the esc and rx were going to fit but running the esc wires on the side of the battery in the pod, it is hanging behind the battery which give me enough wire to fish out and plug in with. The rx is tucked in the wing as per the build video, and as for the the pod, I cut a small foam firewall to put behind the shaft that sticks though the wood. I think I am going to have to add nose weight because the CG is over the wing spar, but it seems to not have a nose down like explained in the video.
 
#8
Thanks for the advice, I got it all together with a little artistic license. Wasn't exactly sure how the esc and rx were going to fit but running the esc wires on the side of the battery in the pod, it is hanging behind the battery which give me enough wire to fish out and plug in with. The rx is tucked in the wing as per the build video, and as for the the pod, I cut a small foam firewall to put behind the shaft that sticks though the wood. I think I am going to have to add nose weight because the CG is over the wing spar, but it seems to not have a nose down like explained in the video.
Dont sweat it my friend. Thats all part of the game. I put a Sunnysky x2814 900kv in mine spinning a 12x7 scale prop (from the e-flite trojan). Pulls close to 5 pounds of static thrust. Anyway point is it’s not uncommon to have to sometimes modify or veer off from the plans when it comes to power systems. On my setup the x mount for the motor was too big for the corsair firewall and hence way too big for the tunnel the pod needed to be in.

My solution was to trim the mount arm with lineman pliers and use m3 nuts and bolts to secure it. I also opted to 3d print a brilliantly designed firewall (thanks thingiverse) with ‘side cheeks’ (term stolen from Mr. Bixler :) ). Once together I epoxied the back and sides of the firewall for extra strength and it works great.

It looks like you were able to get er together so right on. Im getting ready to retrofit some rotating retracts to the wing on my corsair.
 
#9
Im getting ready to retrofit some rotating retracts to the wing on my corsair.
Hmmm I’ve been thinking about slamming a spare (old) set of spitfire retracts I have lying around on ma Corsair also as getting small set of twist n turn retracts can be a challenge,
Will possibly add another pushrod to rear servo and hook up tail wheel also :)
 
#10
I thought about doing that as well but I haven't been able to find a reasonably priced rear retraction system. Its the only thing that has made me hesitate about putting retracts on it at all. If im going to take the time to put a nice set of rotating retracts in the wing i don't wanna leave a small donut having under the rudder lol.