You don't need to work with epoxy to use fiberglass. Polyurethane wood finish or almost any kind of glue will work, hot glue, wood glue, even elmer's white glue will work. Granted epoxy is the best....i dont want to work with epoxy
I'm building a bdf jet so the power pod is insideI’ve found that the power pod is an unintentional sacrificial part. I’ve rebuild the power pods for my Storch and Cub multiple times, but I’ve never had to completely rebuild the nose or fuselage. The power pod is a nice crumple zone that saves the rest of the plane from more damage. Also, the skewers that hold the power pod in rip nicely and absorb more of the impact. With that in mind, I wonder if we could improve on that. For example, if we reinforced the skewer holes in the fuselage but not the ones in the power pod so that all the ripping took place in the power pod. Or if the power pod could stick out from the front of the plane to avoid more damage to the nose.
Also, I’ve been using fewer rubber bands to hold my wing on than I used to. I originally strapped that wing down with four rubber bands. Then I realized that it only needs two, and that allows it to come off easier in a crash, reducing damage.
These are kind of tangential thoughts to the original question, but related enough. 😂
the other parts are durable as hell but the nose will be the weak point so I need a way to make it crush resistant'Stronger in what way? Better tensile strength? Crush/crash resistant?
Making one part of a plane stronger will shift the weakest point somewhere else on the craft. Is that point easier to repair than the nose when you crash?
Your question is rather vague and you immediately shut down some valid options because of skills you don't yet possess. Is it cheaper to build 15 plain foam noses or 1 strong one that's been glassed? If you reinforce the nose to the point that a crash breaks the spar or crumples the fuselage are you better off than remaking a simple nose? These are not meant as antagonizing questions---they are engineering decisions.
One option is to layer packing tape over the foam. This can be on top of the paper or with the paper removed. It's more puncture and weather resistant but will crush on hard impact.
can u send a an eg of what I should buyYou don't need to work with epoxy to use fiberglass. Polyurethane wood finish or almost any kind of glue will work, hot glue, wood glue, even elmer's white glue will work. Granted epoxy is the best.
I use a lot of bamboo barbeque skewers in my builds, mostly in the wings, I make an I beam, a skewer on top and one on the bottom with foam in-between, makes a very strong spar.
For fiberglass over foam, I use a light weight cloth, something like 1/2 oz cloth. If I’m just reinforcing a small area, I will use what ever glue is handy. If I’m covering a large area, like an entire wing, I will break out the oil base minwax polyurethane. I’m sure other brands of polyurethane work equally well.can u send a an eg of what I should buy
Exactly. For example, some of the older plans don't have doublers. My son who likes to push the limits finds the weaknesses real fast. This is part of the fun. Makes lots of fun memories and improves our building and flying skills!I used to do what JD recommends but after rebuilding a few planes I like to take a look at where the weak spots are and reinforce them as I build. This may save you from a total rebuild of the fuselage. Once you start doing this you can easily see the weak points.
I agree. I usually have extra power pods with engines already mounted to swap out sitting around. Most Power Pods are able to be fixed after a crash with fiber reinforced packing tape on the inside of the plane and both sides of the power pod. Then if the power pod gets too bad, just swap out with another power pod.I’ve found that the power pod is an unintentional sacrificial part. I’ve rebuild the power pods for my Storch and Cub multiple times, but I’ve never had to completely rebuild the nose or fuselage. The power pod is a nice crumple zone that saves the rest of the plane from more damage. Also, the skewers that hold the power pod in rip nicely and absorb more of the impact. With that in mind, I wonder if we could improve on that. For example, if we reinforced the skewer holes in the fuselage but not the ones in the power pod so that all the ripping took place in the power pod. Or if the power pod could stick out from the front of the plane to avoid more damage to the nose.
Also, I’ve been using fewer rubber bands to hold my wing on than I used to. I originally strapped that wing down with four rubber bands. Then I realized that it only needs two, and that allows it to come off easier in a crash, reducing damage.
These are kind of tangential thoughts to the original question, but related enough. 😂
Thanks. I might give this a try.I did an experiment with Modge Podge Hard Coat & .75oz fiberglass over foam. I found it very easy to work with, dries to handle within an hour or less, & it makes for a protective hard shell. U can also brush it over foam by itself. If U use it over fiberglass, it needs to thinned & straight water won't do very well. I've found equal parts of denatured alcohol, distilled water, & clear ammonia free glass cleaner works for thinning. I first saw use of this stuff here:
can you send pic or link or both of the 1/2 oz fiberglassFor fiberglass over foam, I use a light weight cloth, something like 1/2 oz cloth. If I’m just reinforcing a small area, I will use what ever glue is handy. If I’m covering a large area, like an entire wing, I will break out the oil base minwax polyurethane. I’m sure other brands of polyurethane work equally well.
Just be careful with the epoxy. It generates heat during the cure and can melt the foam.so plan know is too fiberglass nose and other parts of the plane as I just realised I have epoxy and I fiberglass is cheap