Mustang fail

[twelti]

I've finished the Nutball, Delta and Flyer builds. I've been getting better at the whole process in general. BUT, epic fail today on the Mustang, which I was trying to do an extra clean job on. Problem is the part where you put the paper on the top, curving it around and gluing the edges. I tell you, it is nowhere near as easy as the build video makes it look. i wonder if the paper material in the current kit is thicker or what, but it doesn't bend that easy. I found it extremely awkward to get it bent around and hold it evenly so I could glue it. Also, no dot on my turtle deck like in their video. The CA glue they use was a bad idea for me! I used only a small amount but it still came out around the edges when I pushed the paper down, and started sticking to my fingers and the plane! CA glue sticks much better to human flesh than paper it seems. Don't get me wrong, I've been using CA glue for years, I don't glue my fingers nearly as often as I used to. But in this case... So, after trying not to get my fingers stuck to the plane, the paper ended up misplaced. In trying to then get it off, I tore off much of the paper facing on one side of the plane (rear part). Trying to figure out how to proceed. I put some Minwax on the foam (strength?), then thinking I might just paint over it all, paper and exposed foam. Still need to cut out a new piece of paper and try that again. Not sure how I'll approach it this time. Thinking of 5 min epoxy this time, or maybe just hot glue.

 

[CrashRecovery]

Just use a really thin bead of hot glue.

 

[JamesWhom]

Just use a really thin bead of hot glue.

Yeah and make sure that you work quickly when you've put down that bead of hot glue, as it will dry fast.

 

[pistolpete1982]

You could also use tape and make a hinge type. The scotch tape will hold it in place while the glue dries. Ive seen it done on one of the build videos....i think it was the ft duster build video.

 

[Jbing]

I also found it quite helpful to precurl the construction paper. There is also a grain issue. All paper has a grain. If you take the whole sheet and bend in around, you will find it curls easier one way than the other. I take the piece I'm about to install and curl it around a thin rolling pin, then a piece of 1/2" pvc. This will also keep you from getting a crease in the paper. It's tedious but well worth it if you can get the paper to the correct shape before attempting the glueing process. When prefitting the piece, put a small pencil dot to mark the edge. That way you won't be in a panic for proper alignment if you use hot glue to attach it. Taping one side to use it for a hinge helps too. Be sure to allow the glue to set completely on one side before doing the other one. If you do it too soon, the first side may lift at the edges. This can be caused by not getting the glue close enough to the edge too. Its a fine line going from not getting it close enough to the edge, and getting it too close causing squeeze out that looks equally bad. Ive substituted the paper for foam but that's a process too. You remove the paper from the back side of it and preshape it like the construction paper. I did this on my Spitfire. It came out nice.

 

[twelti]

Agreed on all counts. I actually did start fiddling with bending a piece of foamboard with paper removed from one side like you did (looks pretty good). it is hard to get the small enough radius though.

I'm currently trying to decide what to do about the section of the side of the fuselage where the outer paper layer tore off. I already put some minwax on it. Wondering if after painting (silver metalic), the paperless area will be very noticeable. Also about structurally - will it be weakened? I could cut out a matching piece of paper and glue down to cover the paperless area, or put layer of 3 mil packing tape (can I paint over that with enamel?). or, just leave with minwax and paint. Area is around 1 1/2" x 7".

 

[BambooRocket]

I know it might be obvious, but I had the same issue until I sat back and took a look at it. Make sure the shiny side of the poster board is up! I glued soooooo many times before I realized the little mistake. Good luck!

 

[RAM]

Sometimes it's better to use two glues. For example, use contact cement on the starting edge, line it up perfectly and stick it. On the other end use small dots of contact cement with your CA on the rest of the glue line, align and stick again. I've done this with hot glue as well, get it tacked in place then finish the glue line.

 

[RAM]

Use some heat to get the smaller bend radius

 

[heatvent]

So I am trying to scratch build the mustang and most of it is going well. I am a bit stuck with the posterboard. I am using some cheap walmart stuff and I easily see creases especially by the tail. Looking for suggestions:

• Is there a brand that seems to bend/work well?
• Should I put glossy or matte side up (I saw someone mention glossy but putting matte side up seems to reduce the impact of any creasing).
• Any other suggestions other than those in the previous posts.

Thanks

 

[PeterGregory]

Another approach would be a derivative of the turtle deck for the Racer/Slinger for which I posted an FT Article.
http://flitetest.com/articles/cut-foam-for-slinger-turtle-deck

You can find cheap EPO (white cooler type foam) at Home Depot, etc., and cut & shape it very easily.

Next time around I would use the Peter method of using that light brown craft paper and elmers glue to coat the shaped foam.

Then, with a tougher, more rigid shell of that paper, you can hollow out the foam from the underside to remove weight before attaching.

This really dolls up the airplane and is more durable. You can paint that paper surface, now.

Next time I use this I am going to weigh the materials for the standard FT turtle deck method (poster board) and the foam.

If you need a reference to Peter's method let me know, I will look it up and post it.

 

[heatvent]

I think I know what you are referring to except I thought he used waterbased minwax polyurethane. There was a video on waterproofing you plans where you take off all the foam board paper and replace with brown kraft paper soaked in minwax. Could be an option...thanks!

 

[heatvent]

So I ended up using the roll with PVC pipe method to curl the paper first...ended up working well. What I did was to cut the poster board first, but I didn't cut any of the slits for shaping over the formers. I wanted a solid piece to work with. I then carefully rolled over 3/4 PVC pipe maybe half a dozen or so times, curling a little more each time from each long side of the template. I then cut out the final slits per the diagram and was then able to form to the plane without issue.

I did mine glossy side down, not sure if it matters but the matte side seemed to take the added stress of stretching better than the coated side. As far as glue goes I used "Foam 2 Foam" glue which is thick like Testors model glue and has about 10 seconds or so to work with. I applied the glue with a wooden Starbucks stir stick to the paper to make sure I applied a thin layer out to the edge of the poster board. All in all happy with the results although I did get a little glue on my finger at one point that transferred to the outside of the paper...otherwise a fairly clean job.