New Naze 32 rev 6 setup. Newb

[Jbird]

I am just going to start by this is my first post on flitetest and I love it so much and thank you ahead of time.


This is my first ever multi rotor build, first time ever soldiering and first ever computer controlled radio. I picked up the dragonfly kit and matched motor and esc is a naze32 rev6 full with a brand new turnigy 9x.

I have all of my motors soldiered up to the PDB of the lower plate and had some help setting the pins in the naze32.

I have no clue how to set up the wiring from here. Pulling pins and splicing here.... It's so confusing. I can find wiring diagrams all day long for the KK, flip, naze rev 5. But none for the new rev6. I would love to get this up in the air asap.

I purchased a bunch of jumper wires from pololu. Can some one guide me how to set this up? I like pictures lol they help a ton.. But do I need to pull pins from the esc? And where does the reciever connect and which wires go where. I'm just over whelmed by the whole thing.
Any help?

 

[pressalltheknobs]

http://www.quadquestions.com/Naze32_rev6_manual_v1.2.pdf

 

[airhawk]

Its the red and white wire plugs into throttle , the brown wire plugs to aileron, green to elevator and yellow to rudder for dsmx then you have to plug the battery in like this to the rx look over this a few of times before you attempt it you could short the rx.

Hope this helps
-Airhawk

 

[Jbird]

The pdf manual looks great seems to make a bunch of sense. But I'm using the 9x8 turnigy reciever with my 9x. So none of the dsmx stuff doesn't work I guess.

Using this set up as a tri, I cant locate where the servo for the tail plugs in....

 

[pressalltheknobs]

Yeah. The Turnigy 9X uses AETR channel order on the receiver. Spektrum (DSMX) uses TAER.

On the Turnigy 8CH RX there are three rows of pins. The center row of pins across is the +ve bus (they are all wired together), the lower row is the -ve bus (they are all wired together) and the top row are the individual channel signal pins.

The pins down the left hand side of the NAZE 32 rv6 board are -ve(gnd), +v(5v), 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

Wires from those -ve and and +ve NAZE 32 pins will power the receiver in a typical setup. The -ve should be connected to one of the pins on the -ve RX bus (the lower row of pins) and the +ve to one of the pins on the +ve RX bus ( the middle row of pins)

After that the NAZE 32 inputs should be connected to the channels in order pin 1 to CH1 etc. pin 2 to CH2

In the FC configuration software you should select PARALLEL_PWM receiver mode and AETR1234 channel map order. The 1234 mean AUX1,2,3,4 and correspond to CH5,6,7,8 on the RX and pins 5678 on the NAZE.

In CleanFlight these are on the Configuration page and the Receiver page respectively. However I'm not sure CleanFlight supports the REV6 board yet. The latest might or there might be a patch. BaseFlight works with the rev6 and these setting seem to be in simialr places but may be presented slightly differently. From that manual I linked it looks like you select PARALLEL_PWM by just not checking "enable serial based receiver".

In any case you want to end up with this mapping...

CH1 = Ail = Roll
CH2 = Elv = Pitch
CH3 = Thr = Throttle
CH4 = Rud = Yaw

 

[pressalltheknobs]

The tail servo wil be an output from the FC. It will not be directly connected to the RX. If you select Tricopter on the Configuration page in Baseflight it may give you some clues. I haven't set up a Tri or used BaseFlight so I can't tell you specifically. I'll poke around in CleanFlight a bit and see.

 

[Jbird]

This is an amazing amount of help thank you so much. I have been messing with clean flight. Just the board everything seems to work well. Once I have everything hooked up I'll try it again and see how it runs from there. I just hope I can figure motor orientation and which are CW and which are CCW. The inverted motors are throwing me off a little.

 

[pressalltheknobs]

On CleanFlight it seems you need the Configurator version 1.1.0 and you have to flash firmware version 1.11.0 which is supposed to support Naze32 REV6.

The manual for rev3-5 implies you need to be a servo mode and the Tail servo connects to S1. That rev6 manual is less clear but I suspect it is the same based on the list of differences I remember. The tail motor connects to M1, right front to M2 and left front to M3 (looking from the tail rotor and top).

I think servo mode should be selected automatically if you choose Tri on the Configuration page. You have to "save and reboot" in CleanFlight for it to take effect. Probably similar in BaseFlight.

In servo mode the relevant motor pins on the front of the Naze32 rev6 should be

1 Servo1
2
3 Motor 1
4 Motor 2
5 Motor 3
6

I tried this on the bench with my rev 5 board and clean flight and that mapping seemed to be in place. pin 1 controlled a servo. 3,4,5 controlled motors. That's about as far as I can take it since I don't have a rev6, baseflight or a tri and only have one motor/ESC I can conveniently hook up

 

[pressalltheknobs]

Dragonfly has 5 motors. I'm not sure what "mixer" configuration you use to set that up in CleanFlight. You may want to set it up as a standard 3 motor tri to start just to get things working. The second set of motors might be controlled via a Y cable from the same two motor connections in which case its just a tri as far as the FC is concerned. Just guessing...

If your motors are threaded CW and CCW remember that the motor should rotate the opposite way for the threading "self tighten" the prop nut. The idea is that the force of the air on the prop pushes it back turning the nut tighter.

If all you motors are CW threaded (normal) then you should observe that rule where you can (for the CCW rotating props) and for the CW rotating props use nylock nuts and maybe a bit of blue thread lock, tighten well and check before every flight.

 

[Jbird]

So much Great info thanks a ton. I am aware the extra motors are split of and run together. I meant which direction they should rotate. They work coaxial right? So they should counter rotate from each other correct? On CW and the other CCW?

 

[Jbird]

I need to some serious play time with the programming.

once I get some time to invest into tinkering I'll post my results thanks a ton again guys .

 

[Jbird]

Ok so I have everything put together so far. I'm noticing my wife for the servo for the tilt is too short by like an inch or so. I would either move my naze back on the board or move tilt forward on the arm. Which would be a better method?

 

[pressalltheknobs]

Ok so I have everything put together so far. I'm noticing my wife for the servo for the tilt is too short by like an inch or so. I would either move my naze back on the board or move tilt forward on the arm. Which would be a better method?

Your wife is an inch too short? Hmmm, ok, if you say so.

Sorry couldn't resist. Guess you mean wire. And you can't make the wire longer because...?

I don't know how critical the positioning is but I'm guessing it's best to keep the FC as close to the centered of gravity as possible. So if you really can't make the wire a bit longer then I would bring the motor in a bit assuming that doesn't involve anything destructive. You may need to bring the other motors in a bit to balance it out.

 

[Jbird]

Lol oops gotta love auto correct...

The servo WIRE is only about an inch short, outside of an extension, how can I make up the distance? I guess solder in a piece to make it longer?

 

[pressalltheknobs]

The usual method is to use a short servo extension. If you are in hurry your local hobby shop should have one. You can order them from most RC hobby suppliers and amazon just as an example.

If you are really keen, you can buy a crimper and supplies to make up your own custom length servo cables.

You could just cut the wire and solder a new bit of servo cable in, heat shrinking the individual wires but that assumes you have soldering gear and suitable heat shrink.

 

[Jbird]

I ordered a couple extra servo short and long extension for this and other projects.
For the mean time I would try bench flight and check everything out.
I can't get anything to work really. At least not the way it should. Now I'm getting my front 2 motors starting up and spinning and not my tail.
In the reciever page 4 main channels seem good. Ail, pit, yaw, thr. But after that nothing. No aux but I believe I need to spend more time in my transmitter for that.
When I hit save to make sure my settings stay the two front motors spin up (with battery conncted)
I need to disconnect the battery to get them to stop.
Disconnect from clean flight add in battery and can't figure how to arm.
I don't get the beeps from the escs anymore either.
Sorry skip a few steps a stroke of luck got me arming from a 5th channel. If a solid green light means arm.

But no motor spin up once I've gone green.

I have a feeling I am going to just start over from scratch and try to do a write after this lol.

Added note min thr in config is 1040
In reciever page it is at 1057

 

[pressalltheknobs]

For Cleanflight, I think Arm is throttle stick down and to the right, by default . If you configured an AUX channel to Arm in Cleanflight on a switch I think it disables that behavior. I am unclear what mode is default once you arm if you haven't set switches and channels.

 

[Jbird]

 

[C0d3M0nk3y]

I am unclear what mode is default once you arm if you haven't set switches and channels.

Rate mode is the default in Cleanflight.

 

[Jbird]

Sssooooo...... I was double checking all of my wires and re checking everything. Found a good write up on how to set up the channels in my radio. I got about half way into the mixes and notice low battery... Ugh Fml right I needed to stop and charge the battery.
So about an hour later super excited to finally get air born!!!

I rushed to plug the battery in...... Plugged in in wrong and magic smoke!!! Burned out a path on the board and a voltage regulator. Fixing this is way beyond my skill level.

Anyone want to buy a burned up 9x??? Lol.
Or just take it, if you want to try and fix it?