smithhayward
Large Child
OK, so I couldn't wait to make a lego prototype. This just proves that this is possible so onto modeling it in 3D. Just need to decide which tool to use. Probably start in Sketchup and go from there.
Project: Single Servo Multiple Drop Mechanism - 3D Printing
- Thread starter smithhayward
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- 3d printing bomb drop
smithhayward
Large Child
Yes, thanks. Good news is that while I'm yet to get the 3D Printer up and running, I have gotten the sofware all installed and have even figured out how to get an object from Blender into ReplicatorG. At some point I'll research other slicing tools, but for now I'll start with what Monoprice suggests.
With any luck I'll have a first prototype in PLA by the end of Sunday Funday!
~S
With any luck I'll have a first prototype in PLA by the end of Sunday Funday!
~S
smithhayward
Large Child
I have a semi-functional prototype all assembled. I started with the basic module for proof of concept, so I don't have anything yet that can be triggered with a servo. I have pictures and a video overview ready to post when I have the time. Hopefully by this weekend.
ProfessorFate
Active member
Hi Smith, been a while,started thinking about this again, personal interest
I have finished my wood pod for the "Beef" motor 2217/7 may give thrust of 36-40oz with gws9x5dd
Anyway thoughts about your post and dropping bombs from my own soon-to-be warbird kept me awake so I thought I would say what had been on my mind now that would work good for 6 bombs with one servo, no pics or diagrams but here goes
I just cannot see building without a good strong wing spar, so for this one with landing gear and all, 2 spars 2.5" apart glued to luan or lite-ply
Looking for 2 to 3" space between these spars (3/8 spruce ?) on the flat recess of lite-ply, a 1/8 piano wire with 3 hooks on it, the outsides release 1st, outside hook formed by bending the end around but make it big and long so that glued slip sleeves can be on both sides to hold orientation of the whole spring-loaded sliding 3 hook release rod, spring pulls it to a stop in the neutral position
A spring ( puller ) that has a little more strength than a ball point pen ( pusher ) should do this fine, and Home Depot has some 2.5" springs on aisle 11 where the hinges and doorknobs are, I called them yesterday and checked.
another pic tried to make it more clear
Now I'm saying this could easily fit inside a wing and just use one of those suppo 32 inch ounce micro hi torque servos or any servo that'd give you about 32 inch/oz........ in the wing, a servo and two flat 1/8 piano wires with springs n hooks sliding inside a wood tray, you glue the slip sleeves down to hold the wire, and for convenience you could do all your wire soldering and then put on split sleeves, turn the split downward and glue it to the channel so it holds your wire mechanism but lets it slip left and right.
OK drawing is not the best, the servo would go where I started writing stationary cleat (that to tie down stationary, one end of the spring), and you would use the long servo arm and a small 3/8" wooden stop block would be between the 2 separate vertical bomb drop levers like where the servo is drawn, but, it's an operational idea, the spring pulls the hooked wires inboard against the stop,
One thing about making this work right, have to use servo arm long enough and position wires and stop close enough so that with even the max arm travel, the arm stays behind the piano wire, not slipping in front of it, but the load would be so light you could use a really long arm and it would work fine
I was thinking in terms of 3/16 travel for each one, B1=3/16, B2 =6/16, B3=9/16 or slightly longer and you could use longer lengths if you used a longer arm ( more travel ) Put a slip sleeve right next to the last upward turn inside the corner 3/4" from the bend in the wire the servo would contact, see?
2 ways to control bomb drop
1: Easiest, put this servo on a knob 1/3 left release B1, 2/3L for B2, 3/3L for B3 then the Right side same, and you could of course try to drop them left and right, too
See, the servo arm would not be attached to anything, it pushes Left and is not touching the bomb release arm on the Right side so that one merely rests on the stop
2: The harder way which I kind of like because the amounts could be pre-set, with a 3 position sw for b1-b2-b3, a 2 pos sw for L or R and a temp on/off for "drop bomb"
OH those are slots cut thru the wood floor of the channel and I think my bombs would use for hooks eyes, paper clips with a generous bent eye, both ends attached to a 16penny nail as a bomb weight encased in wood, slam it together, glue and paint it silver or white
Now I think this is very easy, compact, and manageable, so much so, I really think I might just do this
I'm on the fence now about if I put this in a wing, to make the wing wood or foam.
Tell me what you think
I have finished my wood pod for the "Beef" motor 2217/7 may give thrust of 36-40oz with gws9x5dd
Anyway thoughts about your post and dropping bombs from my own soon-to-be warbird kept me awake so I thought I would say what had been on my mind now that would work good for 6 bombs with one servo, no pics or diagrams but here goes
I just cannot see building without a good strong wing spar, so for this one with landing gear and all, 2 spars 2.5" apart glued to luan or lite-ply
Looking for 2 to 3" space between these spars (3/8 spruce ?) on the flat recess of lite-ply, a 1/8 piano wire with 3 hooks on it, the outsides release 1st, outside hook formed by bending the end around but make it big and long so that glued slip sleeves can be on both sides to hold orientation of the whole spring-loaded sliding 3 hook release rod, spring pulls it to a stop in the neutral position
A spring ( puller ) that has a little more strength than a ball point pen ( pusher ) should do this fine, and Home Depot has some 2.5" springs on aisle 11 where the hinges and doorknobs are, I called them yesterday and checked.
another pic tried to make it more clear
Now I'm saying this could easily fit inside a wing and just use one of those suppo 32 inch ounce micro hi torque servos or any servo that'd give you about 32 inch/oz........ in the wing, a servo and two flat 1/8 piano wires with springs n hooks sliding inside a wood tray, you glue the slip sleeves down to hold the wire, and for convenience you could do all your wire soldering and then put on split sleeves, turn the split downward and glue it to the channel so it holds your wire mechanism but lets it slip left and right.
OK drawing is not the best, the servo would go where I started writing stationary cleat (that to tie down stationary, one end of the spring), and you would use the long servo arm and a small 3/8" wooden stop block would be between the 2 separate vertical bomb drop levers like where the servo is drawn, but, it's an operational idea, the spring pulls the hooked wires inboard against the stop,
One thing about making this work right, have to use servo arm long enough and position wires and stop close enough so that with even the max arm travel, the arm stays behind the piano wire, not slipping in front of it, but the load would be so light you could use a really long arm and it would work fine
I was thinking in terms of 3/16 travel for each one, B1=3/16, B2 =6/16, B3=9/16 or slightly longer and you could use longer lengths if you used a longer arm ( more travel ) Put a slip sleeve right next to the last upward turn inside the corner 3/4" from the bend in the wire the servo would contact, see?
2 ways to control bomb drop
1: Easiest, put this servo on a knob 1/3 left release B1, 2/3L for B2, 3/3L for B3 then the Right side same, and you could of course try to drop them left and right, too
See, the servo arm would not be attached to anything, it pushes Left and is not touching the bomb release arm on the Right side so that one merely rests on the stop
2: The harder way which I kind of like because the amounts could be pre-set, with a 3 position sw for b1-b2-b3, a 2 pos sw for L or R and a temp on/off for "drop bomb"
OH those are slots cut thru the wood floor of the channel and I think my bombs would use for hooks eyes, paper clips with a generous bent eye, both ends attached to a 16penny nail as a bomb weight encased in wood, slam it together, glue and paint it silver or white
Now I think this is very easy, compact, and manageable, so much so, I really think I might just do this
I'm on the fence now about if I put this in a wing, to make the wing wood or foam.
Tell me what you think
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Danal The Dragon
Member
What about this idea for dropping nerf darts. A servo pushes two plates that slide in channels. As one plate slides back it pushes the other one allowing only one dart to drop at a time.
ProfessorFate
Active member
Wow, I like the simplicity of your idea, the 2 important things here is placement in fuse near CG and tight tolerances for the slot the bombs sit in and the bombs all same dimension
I think mine better favors placement in the wing, I was kind of thinking of the thing where the plates might jam on a bomb like a paper jam in a printer
Hey I just thought, this could be very very good in application, if there was a spring load pushing the bombs, then this idea could go sideways in a wing on the CG inside the spar channel too
Another observation of the quality of both ideas tho, the eye n hook idea will not allow any jams
Leonard
Well Smith did, earlier, ask for a variety of ideas, I like your idea equally well, I'm gonna remember this too.
I think mine better favors placement in the wing, I was kind of thinking of the thing where the plates might jam on a bomb like a paper jam in a printer
Hey I just thought, this could be very very good in application, if there was a spring load pushing the bombs, then this idea could go sideways in a wing on the CG inside the spar channel too
Another observation of the quality of both ideas tho, the eye n hook idea will not allow any jams
Leonard
Well Smith did, earlier, ask for a variety of ideas, I like your idea equally well, I'm gonna remember this too.
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smithhayward
Large Child
Yes! Thanks for the ideas guys. I continue to like the eye/hook idea and will probably try my hand at one soon. I never got to post the video overview of the one I already printed and assembled, but I've redesigned it, now printed in ABS (the other was in PLA) and so far it's going together quite well. I'm trying to print the housing tonight, I already have the guts done. My ONLY concern is that magnets will not keep the bomb attached to the plane if pulling high-G moves, but for scale flight I think it will have a chance. If I need to I'll redesign it with 4 magnets instead of 2. I'll try to post the first prototype pics/video tonight. Along with the new prototype if I get it done. The new prototype has a servo arm that can be air-tested. The first one doesn't have a remote mechanism, I was just testing the bomb holding/launching mechanism for proof-of-concept.
This stuff is so fun! I wonder what Thomas Edison could have done with a 3D Printer...
This stuff is so fun! I wonder what Thomas Edison could have done with a 3D Printer...
smithhayward
Large Child
This looks like a neat idea - I've already thought of a few versions that I could make too. I'll mock it up in Blender and maybe print a prototype. No promises though, my work (thankfully) has gotten quite busy. Can't play with planes if the job isn't paying for the fun!
I have a bunch of dollar store suction nerf darts that I can use for reference, but if you give me exact dimentions of the nerf darts you have I can design it around that.
ProfessorFate
Active member
Don't forget the springs are on aisle 11 by the doorknobs
ProfessorFate
Active member
Scale-ish plan drawn, elaboration on details, hook n loop bomb drop
Hi Smith
A pic would say a lot so here and I'll fill in...
You know those slip sleeves for push rods, you can get them or something similar 1/8" ID
I drew this looking at mechanical things, to discover like I was making it right now to use
A stop should be put 1 inch outboard of the last hook to keep it together, then there's the one inboard stop that the servo is screwed to, and a long servo arm is over it
If the spring were attached like in the pic, it would not pull sideways and snag on anything, just solder a loop of wire around where the spring attaches, make sure the sharp ends that would snag on something face up
The distance between the 1st sleev and B1 could be minimized to what is needed for a soldered splint
Same for the 2nd one.... distance needed for splint
3rd needs the one inch plus the sleeve
B1: the 1st after the vertical needs: 1inch + sleeve + splint
B2: splint
B3: 1inch + sleeve
giving .5" for sleeves and for splints , this could be about 4" long, but if the springs fm HDepot are long then they will need to be shortened without making it too hard on the servo to expand, or just make the B1 distance the spring needs... like a little longer, I heard they are 2.5", B1=2" right now, would need 2.5" plus a little more for tension
So giving .5" for tension and making B1 longer to = 3" then the whole would be 5" long.
Still not bad because remember you can put the hook ends anywhere you want, meaning as close inboard as possible, and evenly spaced, if you like.
I measured where the slip sleeves are, an inch or more from the hook ends and slots and measured while drawing, the 3/16" differences in slot positions, the sleeves might help keep the hook above the slot so it would not snag on it, plus you could bend the hook up about 2 degrees to prevent snags on the channel floor
On the sleeve by the servo, 1 whole clear inch is needed for travel on the R side and the same on the outboard end and remember the outboard end is easier because it is slick ( no solders or attachments ) B1 and B2 move in unison and don't need the 1 inch space between ( just the sleeves )
I think this summarizes it all clearly in "super sepia", and, I don't think I'm building my Hawker Hurricane for the wood power pod, without this bomb drop mech
The only tricky part came to me just now, where to put the servo, glad I have a choice and that it can work, may have to put the servo on top, other (forward) side of the channel spar, it will work either way and of course longways or sideways
Rib formers could keep the wing topside inside from interference with the servo or the ends of each Left and Right mechanism, all outboard of the vertical the servo would contact, would lay flat inside the channel, so it's just the servo and the 2 vertical wire posts that need protecting.
I may try controlling this 1st just with a knob, that would be very easy.
Now with a closer look at physical details, what do you think?
Leonard
Hi Smith
A pic would say a lot so here and I'll fill in...
You know those slip sleeves for push rods, you can get them or something similar 1/8" ID
I drew this looking at mechanical things, to discover like I was making it right now to use
A stop should be put 1 inch outboard of the last hook to keep it together, then there's the one inboard stop that the servo is screwed to, and a long servo arm is over it
If the spring were attached like in the pic, it would not pull sideways and snag on anything, just solder a loop of wire around where the spring attaches, make sure the sharp ends that would snag on something face up
The distance between the 1st sleev and B1 could be minimized to what is needed for a soldered splint
Same for the 2nd one.... distance needed for splint
3rd needs the one inch plus the sleeve
B1: the 1st after the vertical needs: 1inch + sleeve + splint
B2: splint
B3: 1inch + sleeve
giving .5" for sleeves and for splints , this could be about 4" long, but if the springs fm HDepot are long then they will need to be shortened without making it too hard on the servo to expand, or just make the B1 distance the spring needs... like a little longer, I heard they are 2.5", B1=2" right now, would need 2.5" plus a little more for tension
So giving .5" for tension and making B1 longer to = 3" then the whole would be 5" long.
Still not bad because remember you can put the hook ends anywhere you want, meaning as close inboard as possible, and evenly spaced, if you like.
I measured where the slip sleeves are, an inch or more from the hook ends and slots and measured while drawing, the 3/16" differences in slot positions, the sleeves might help keep the hook above the slot so it would not snag on it, plus you could bend the hook up about 2 degrees to prevent snags on the channel floor
On the sleeve by the servo, 1 whole clear inch is needed for travel on the R side and the same on the outboard end and remember the outboard end is easier because it is slick ( no solders or attachments ) B1 and B2 move in unison and don't need the 1 inch space between ( just the sleeves )
I think this summarizes it all clearly in "super sepia", and, I don't think I'm building my Hawker Hurricane for the wood power pod, without this bomb drop mech
The only tricky part came to me just now, where to put the servo, glad I have a choice and that it can work, may have to put the servo on top, other (forward) side of the channel spar, it will work either way and of course longways or sideways
Rib formers could keep the wing topside inside from interference with the servo or the ends of each Left and Right mechanism, all outboard of the vertical the servo would contact, would lay flat inside the channel, so it's just the servo and the 2 vertical wire posts that need protecting.
I may try controlling this 1st just with a knob, that would be very easy.
Now with a closer look at physical details, what do you think?
Leonard
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HowlingWolven
Junior Member
What you -could- do is something like a camshaft horn on your servo, then (assuming you're using something like a taranis), program three or four positions into the servo, three or four piano wire rods that run on the cams (held there with springs), that then each connect to a single bomb drop point. Then program it so that depending on which switch you press you have single shots, two shot ripple, or four shot ripple.
ProfessorFate
Active member
Looks like we may want to get the springs 1st at True Value or HDepot or ...
Or who ever has them in stock, Southerlands, Lowes, .... True Value and Southerlands seem to have a lot of these things in stock instead of having to order them.
The screen door spring may be too much for the servo, but, we can go see what we find to use
Doesn't look like a hard chore, now, after looking online
Leonard
This looks just about actual size
Ever have a hard time trying to splice battery wire on the ESC to make it longer without twisting it and making a big lump that's hard to cover with the heat shrink
I just lengthened my ZTW battery wires a few inches and used a small strand of copper wire tied around the two wires I just meshed together, made it real small and tight, just had to be sure n use enough heat to make the solder penetrate.
Or who ever has them in stock, Southerlands, Lowes, .... True Value and Southerlands seem to have a lot of these things in stock instead of having to order them.
The screen door spring may be too much for the servo, but, we can go see what we find to use
Doesn't look like a hard chore, now, after looking online
Leonard
This looks just about actual size
Ever have a hard time trying to splice battery wire on the ESC to make it longer without twisting it and making a big lump that's hard to cover with the heat shrink
I just lengthened my ZTW battery wires a few inches and used a small strand of copper wire tied around the two wires I just meshed together, made it real small and tight, just had to be sure n use enough heat to make the solder penetrate.
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My idea of how you should do it.
Here is something I quickly designed in sketchup.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1148545/#files
The idea is to have a push rod run down the center of the holes and you could then hook zip ties onto each hole.
The problem is that you would need lots of movement from the servo.
Paul
Here is something I quickly designed in sketchup.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1148545/#files
The idea is to have a push rod run down the center of the holes and you could then hook zip ties onto each hole.
The problem is that you would need lots of movement from the servo.
Paul
ProfessorFate
Active member
One more variation with magnets
Lately I have found out how good those super magnets from Home Depot work, I bought both sizes and used the 7/16" dia magnets on the hatch of my Lite-Ply FT pwr pod, and was thinking, you could score one up to stick good to the epoxy and put it in the corner of the 2nd hook and put a .5" x 1.5" inch steel friction plate ( from a tin can ) under it, just scratch up the plate so there is enough friction to hold the hook mech
After you drop the bombs, the hooks are open, put them back and push an outside pin made just like a hook that goes thru the bottom to hook the bombs back again
Lately I have found out how good those super magnets from Home Depot work, I bought both sizes and used the 7/16" dia magnets on the hatch of my Lite-Ply FT pwr pod, and was thinking, you could score one up to stick good to the epoxy and put it in the corner of the 2nd hook and put a .5" x 1.5" inch steel friction plate ( from a tin can ) under it, just scratch up the plate so there is enough friction to hold the hook mech
After you drop the bombs, the hooks are open, put them back and push an outside pin made just like a hook that goes thru the bottom to hook the bombs back again
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smithhayward
Large Child
Hey Paul - I can't import the STL file into Blender or the MakerBot app I use to print - says bad file. I can try to get you the error code if you think that'll help.
smithhayward
Large Child
Leonard - I'm having trouble envisioning how this goes into a wing. you have the locations of the bomb semi-overlapping and not in-line. With my design they would be attached next to one another and the bombs (same or varying types/sizes) would line up with one another. (I don't have an idea for non-aligned armament yet.)
Maybe if you can show the design in its application as well I could get it.
Smith
ProfessorFate
Active member
Hi Smith
The servo stays the same, I tried to draw this as a flat top view and hope you would understand the vertical rods L and R that the servo arm pushes on
See in the pic there is a wood block under the servo arm the servo is screwed to AND functions as a "stop", I put dots there to exagerate the idea that you are looking at a rod coming toward you ( vertical ), rather than drawing in iso view.
Idea is that the max travel intended is 10/16ths, 3+3+3 + a little extra
I tried to maximize everything good and minimize stuff like big changes in unbalanced load like when you drop a bomb, preventing wing roll by placing them all as close inboard as possible, I see now, a little more space is needed for the bombs as the ones there are about 9/16" wide, maybe you want just a little more space for each so the hooks could be spaced just a little further apart, guess these things become apparent when we make a bomb the size we want it then draw this stuff like I did, I was hoping to be able to drop 1" diameter bombs, so you could see them and find them better ( and white or silver paint ).
I think maybe I like the setup with the spring better than with the magnet
Anyway the part I did not show is the friction plate that would be glued under the magnet to the channel floor about 1.25" long and the width of the magnet, the magnet would hold the hook mech until the servo pushed it and it would stay wherever it was pushed to, you drop all 3 bombs on one side, all hooks are open and the mech would simply sit outboard till you got it on the ground, flipped plane over to reload, place bombs in the open slots, then push an external pin attached to the mech sticking outside and outboard, back in closing the hooks thru the loops, re-loaded again, see
You could drop them all at once on one side or in order one at a time, the magnet stuck to the plate would give enough friction to hold the hooks in the loops holding the bombs
I think I would also put a 3rd sleeve at the aft outside corner too, to better hold the mech to the channel
Spread the hooks out as you like, you could even put them in-line
Now here is the other config in-line actual size with 1 inch diameter bombs, I like this better, because we want to see them when we drop them
We want outboard stop-blocks to stop mech travel at 11/16ths
This pic is all to scale actual size you see, the whole thing appears to fit inside a 2 inch channel in spite of where I put the south looking spar, just so you could see the bombs underneath better, you would really move that spar closer so you could have a 2 inch channel
I plan on making mine to also re-inforce the landing gear
If you put the stop blocks inside, it makes this whole device 2" wide by 10.5" long
If you see it's needed, make the servo arm longer so that it stays behind the bars it pushes against instead of slipping in front of them and fouling the mech, just glue an extension bar on top of the servo arm, a piece of wood
Just thinking about this, it would be easier to fit and make work in a 3 piece wing like that of the Hawker Hurricane where on 40" wing span, the center section could be a length of about 12" if you wanted it that way, but, you could still make it work and just as good on a 2 piece wing, but you would be crowded a little bit in the center by the center bracing the dihedral joints that on the 3 pc wing, would be outboard
**** OK, I see one more problem, height, room, unless you make the wing center section, at the center, hi enough for the servo arm and the vertical mech ends
Well I was just thinking that's a problem for mine if I use my wood pwr pod with the built in wing seat where you just bolt the wing on I would have to make my wing fatter or taller here, you have all that room inside the fuse of yours, your servo could be mounted right side up or upside down ( would make the height you needed much less
Also the servo could be turned on it's side and the arms to push/pull in outboard directions and the ends of the hook mechs could be bent down to the floor and the arm would push them on the floor so the inside of the mech would look similar to the outside
Leonard
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ProfessorFate
Active member
Smith Check this out!! Mimimum Functional dimensions for wire bomb drop mech
I worked out the min dimensions for a wire mech for in-line orientation
Was kind of also working this out for me, needed sleep but wanted to go build this in the channel, wing midsection
It includes all the above hardware, put the spring in the last place mentioned, the stop is not needed, the outboard sleeve performs this function ( not the one by the hook ).
This drawing is precisely drawn with a ruler in a paint shop, so if you print it out it should be actual size as well as appear actual size on your screen.
Also I set this up to allow 1" space between each bomb in case we want to drop 1" diameter bombs.
The spring still goes on that 1st hook in the middle like the above drawing.
The outboard bomb goes 1st when you move the servo 3/16, 2nd 6/16, 3rd 9/16"
1/2" length is left for soldering the middle hooks to the wire mech
The 11/16" is the max allowed movement "planned" conservatively, also I planned something like 1 or 2/16ths where the end of the hook bends like either where it crosses the slot or enters the sleeve.
Everything has a function and hopefully nothing important was left out
The wire bend by the servo can, of course as shown in the above dwgs, be vertical or flat, depending how we want to install the bomb servo, servo flat-- trigger wires flat...... servo vertical--trigger wires vertical
dot in picture shows the trigger bar vertical looking at you ( a top view drwg )
We could simply lay the printed pic down and cut the wire and slots to fit on the print-out
Since one side of mech = 4 5/8" and mvt =11/16 plus the block in the middle where the servo is, looks like this might need 5 5/8 each side for a mid-section on a Hurricane 3 section wing of 11 1/4" min make it 12" to be sure
I tried to see if there was something, some length taken that was not necessary, to shorten it up, and I looked at the bottom right at the sleeve and remembered the hook needs 3/16 + 1/2 for 11/16 because the whole mech moves 11/16 outboard, the hook still needs to stay in that sleeve, see I tried to think of everything.
Tell me you saw this and what you think, I'm thinkin bout making a 11" midsection even tho by scale the 40" Hurricane should only be 9.5"
I have a bit more to work around because I'm using the wood pod with wing seat, bolt on wings.... a regular FT setup with fuse should have much more room and flexibility for things like placement of the servo
Leonard
*** Well, I've got enough figured out now I could just take the print-out to the shop and build it on the porch!
I worked out the min dimensions for a wire mech for in-line orientation
Was kind of also working this out for me, needed sleep but wanted to go build this in the channel, wing midsection
It includes all the above hardware, put the spring in the last place mentioned, the stop is not needed, the outboard sleeve performs this function ( not the one by the hook ).
This drawing is precisely drawn with a ruler in a paint shop, so if you print it out it should be actual size as well as appear actual size on your screen.
Also I set this up to allow 1" space between each bomb in case we want to drop 1" diameter bombs.
The spring still goes on that 1st hook in the middle like the above drawing.
The outboard bomb goes 1st when you move the servo 3/16, 2nd 6/16, 3rd 9/16"
1/2" length is left for soldering the middle hooks to the wire mech
The 11/16" is the max allowed movement "planned" conservatively, also I planned something like 1 or 2/16ths where the end of the hook bends like either where it crosses the slot or enters the sleeve.
Everything has a function and hopefully nothing important was left out
The wire bend by the servo can, of course as shown in the above dwgs, be vertical or flat, depending how we want to install the bomb servo, servo flat-- trigger wires flat...... servo vertical--trigger wires vertical
dot in picture shows the trigger bar vertical looking at you ( a top view drwg )
We could simply lay the printed pic down and cut the wire and slots to fit on the print-out
Since one side of mech = 4 5/8" and mvt =11/16 plus the block in the middle where the servo is, looks like this might need 5 5/8 each side for a mid-section on a Hurricane 3 section wing of 11 1/4" min make it 12" to be sure
I tried to see if there was something, some length taken that was not necessary, to shorten it up, and I looked at the bottom right at the sleeve and remembered the hook needs 3/16 + 1/2 for 11/16 because the whole mech moves 11/16 outboard, the hook still needs to stay in that sleeve, see I tried to think of everything.
Tell me you saw this and what you think, I'm thinkin bout making a 11" midsection even tho by scale the 40" Hurricane should only be 9.5"
I have a bit more to work around because I'm using the wood pod with wing seat, bolt on wings.... a regular FT setup with fuse should have much more room and flexibility for things like placement of the servo
Leonard
*** Well, I've got enough figured out now I could just take the print-out to the shop and build it on the porch!
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ProfessorFate
Active member
Hi Smith, holler back, one last thing
I think on the final, I was about to take the last drawing over to the work bench with some 1/8" piano wire and looked carefully at the size of the servo and the length the hooks extend out, that 1.5" could be reduced to 1" with no problem, still I'm going to use some stiff tight fitting tubing for the sleeves, you know the stuff used for rod guides, zip ties would be a very bad idea because you want the 3 places it holds the wire hook mechs to be held stiffly and accurately without any play, I'm going to put epoxy over them with a little fiberglass reinforcement sticking them to the wood channel floor.
Don't have springs yet, but it's easy enough to get the size, Home Depot has plenty in a value pack 1/4" dia about
So I will change this last dimension on the one I make the mech 1.5" to 1", I looked to see that the servo would allow it and it does, my concern was a longer flexy length catching and hitching and flexing on the sleeves under some tension with hook loads and servo arm pushing at other end
Think I'm gonna go make the wire hook mechs and I'll put up some pics and later put them in a fat Hurricane 12 inch mid wing section. I read the real Hurricane also had a fat wing too. From the descriptions, seems a tough plane the enemy could shoot holes through and it could still fly and fight effectively and get home safely.
My wire bomb mech will use the flat servo installation on a 12" wide piece of 1/8th lite ply that will also hold the landing gear.
Oh as long as you have the 3 sleeves, the mech does not need to rest against the spar, anywhere flat on the floor of the channel will do. Hey that picture is displayed like 1.25 times bigger on my monitor on the FT thread, than it really is when printed.
I think the spring may go better on the last B1 outboard better than on B3 (inboard). This will leave more room for the servo, I saw the spring crowding the servo and on the outside 1 3/8 can be used but the 11/16 must be clear for movement.
Maybe should put spring as close as possible to the branch, not so close to the hook, don't want tension to deform hook mech and cause a bind with sleeve, but you don't want too much more tension than maybe double that of a ball point pen spring anyway and if you use 1/8" piano wire, it's just right, pretty strong.
Now I hope the next thing I show you is a real picture of the soldered 1/8" wire mechs.
Leonard
I think on the final, I was about to take the last drawing over to the work bench with some 1/8" piano wire and looked carefully at the size of the servo and the length the hooks extend out, that 1.5" could be reduced to 1" with no problem, still I'm going to use some stiff tight fitting tubing for the sleeves, you know the stuff used for rod guides, zip ties would be a very bad idea because you want the 3 places it holds the wire hook mechs to be held stiffly and accurately without any play, I'm going to put epoxy over them with a little fiberglass reinforcement sticking them to the wood channel floor.
Don't have springs yet, but it's easy enough to get the size, Home Depot has plenty in a value pack 1/4" dia about
So I will change this last dimension on the one I make the mech 1.5" to 1", I looked to see that the servo would allow it and it does, my concern was a longer flexy length catching and hitching and flexing on the sleeves under some tension with hook loads and servo arm pushing at other end
Think I'm gonna go make the wire hook mechs and I'll put up some pics and later put them in a fat Hurricane 12 inch mid wing section. I read the real Hurricane also had a fat wing too. From the descriptions, seems a tough plane the enemy could shoot holes through and it could still fly and fight effectively and get home safely.
My wire bomb mech will use the flat servo installation on a 12" wide piece of 1/8th lite ply that will also hold the landing gear.
Oh as long as you have the 3 sleeves, the mech does not need to rest against the spar, anywhere flat on the floor of the channel will do. Hey that picture is displayed like 1.25 times bigger on my monitor on the FT thread, than it really is when printed.
I think the spring may go better on the last B1 outboard better than on B3 (inboard). This will leave more room for the servo, I saw the spring crowding the servo and on the outside 1 3/8 can be used but the 11/16 must be clear for movement.
Maybe should put spring as close as possible to the branch, not so close to the hook, don't want tension to deform hook mech and cause a bind with sleeve, but you don't want too much more tension than maybe double that of a ball point pen spring anyway and if you use 1/8" piano wire, it's just right, pretty strong.
Now I hope the next thing I show you is a real picture of the soldered 1/8" wire mechs.
Leonard
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