ProfessorFate
Active member
R Side Mech done
Well that 1/8 piano wire is good stuff and tough, but it can be bent, this one is done, I did overshoot and when I do the Left side, I could remake the Right side and try to make it the 4 5/8".
Oh, you can't see from the pic but I filed the bottom ends of the hooks so they would not catch on the wood channel floor
If you have never tried this solder and wire joining method for landing gear, it sure feels strong, just clean it real good and scratch up the surface to be soldered and will hold good. I cleaned that oily rod with acetone then ground the parts to be soldered with my dremil
***** Being kind of rusty at bending this piano wire the bends on the Right side of the picture look too sloppy, and messed up the dimension.
As you can see, those middle hooks that got bent and soldered, have tighter bends, I really got my method down with a really tight good pair of channel locks and a vice grip and a 4# hammer and a 4oz hammer to get exactly what I wanted
I should have discarded that first effort and made another better one, instead of investing in this one, the wire is not expensive and I think, we can get this piano wire at Home Depot (gonna check on their piano wire, see if it is piano wire), this I got from a Hobby Store.
Looking back at this now, I should have tried bending one of those smaller hook pieces in the middle, then that would have got discarded and the next efforts would be right, it only took a few bends to get a successful method
I put green marks where 3,6,and 9 would be for the slots the loops go thru and they look like they will work exactly as planned in unison all the way to B3 with 9 or 10/16" of movement, maximum.
So Smith, yall started talking about this, and I have the Right side of one made for flat servo installation, tell me what you think,
Look like something you want to try?
Even tho I did not make my exact layout, the mech moves in unison, so 3/16 out drops B1, 6/16 drops B2, and 9/16 drops B3, still consistent and will work
Those wire reinforced soldered joints seem incredibly strong.
Tweaking an up angle of 2 degrees should not be done, just file the bottom of the hooks instead
to prevent snagging of hook to slot.
Shorter sleeves like maybe 1/4" may be better because of tweaking the hook ends up, not such a good idea, because the bottom of the hooks can be filed to keep from snagging on the slot the loop passes thru.
This may just be a 1st effort to be discarded and I'll try again, and maybe do the shorter 3 1/8" puller mech below
Leonard
Well that 1/8 piano wire is good stuff and tough, but it can be bent, this one is done, I did overshoot and when I do the Left side, I could remake the Right side and try to make it the 4 5/8".
Oh, you can't see from the pic but I filed the bottom ends of the hooks so they would not catch on the wood channel floor
If you have never tried this solder and wire joining method for landing gear, it sure feels strong, just clean it real good and scratch up the surface to be soldered and will hold good. I cleaned that oily rod with acetone then ground the parts to be soldered with my dremil
***** Being kind of rusty at bending this piano wire the bends on the Right side of the picture look too sloppy, and messed up the dimension.
As you can see, those middle hooks that got bent and soldered, have tighter bends, I really got my method down with a really tight good pair of channel locks and a vice grip and a 4# hammer and a 4oz hammer to get exactly what I wanted
I should have discarded that first effort and made another better one, instead of investing in this one, the wire is not expensive and I think, we can get this piano wire at Home Depot (gonna check on their piano wire, see if it is piano wire), this I got from a Hobby Store.
Looking back at this now, I should have tried bending one of those smaller hook pieces in the middle, then that would have got discarded and the next efforts would be right, it only took a few bends to get a successful method
I put green marks where 3,6,and 9 would be for the slots the loops go thru and they look like they will work exactly as planned in unison all the way to B3 with 9 or 10/16" of movement, maximum.
So Smith, yall started talking about this, and I have the Right side of one made for flat servo installation, tell me what you think,
Look like something you want to try?
Even tho I did not make my exact layout, the mech moves in unison, so 3/16 out drops B1, 6/16 drops B2, and 9/16 drops B3, still consistent and will work
Those wire reinforced soldered joints seem incredibly strong.
Tweaking an up angle of 2 degrees should not be done, just file the bottom of the hooks instead
to prevent snagging of hook to slot.
Shorter sleeves like maybe 1/4" may be better because of tweaking the hook ends up, not such a good idea, because the bottom of the hooks can be filed to keep from snagging on the slot the loop passes thru.
This may just be a 1st effort to be discarded and I'll try again, and maybe do the shorter 3 1/8" puller mech below
Leonard
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