Hey Gpetty, welcome to the forum!
To touch the motor issue very briefly . . . your RX and servos are getting power, so the ESC is providing power down the red and black wires. the motor is beeping (not clicking, right?) so the ESC is booting up and has control of the motor. You are hearing beeping-but-not-clicking from the motor, so the ESC can put power into the motor (aka beep), but doesn't appear to be trying to spin up the motor (no spinning or clicking from a bad phase).
This leaves us with two alternatives -- either the ESC isn't getting an RX signal, or the ESC has decided to lock down in some way. If the ESC isn't responding in any way, the white wire may be broken -- if you're handy with solder, you may just be able to repair the wire and you're golden. If you have seen the ESC respond to moving the throttle stick up and down (beeping changes/stops) then it's not the former . . . and it's probably not good.
<not good path> There's a bit of a hole in the BLHeli ESCs that can be a headache to fix -- bidirectional function. you see, the beep pattern changing to the stick up and down is the ESC trying to communicate back to you in a "programming mode" -- this allows you to change settings without the ungangly process of plugging into a computer (not easy). one of the options is "bidirectional mode" -- when throttle is mid-stick, the motor is off and arms. push the stick forward and the motor spins normally. pull it back and it spins in reverse. try centering your throttle stick for a few moments and see if it comes to life like this (props off, please). if it does this . . . you can't fix it without a programmer. as soon as this option is selected, the radio programming is disabled. you'll either need a programming card or an adaptor to reflash the ESC . . . not an easy thing to fix. My recommendation, *IF* you can verify the ESC is in bidirectional mode is to contact FT Customer support via email -- it'll take an evening or so for Fred to get back to you, but he will do his best to help you get this sorted out. Tell him I sent ya . . . he'll yell at me later for it
As for your servo . . . This doesn't really correct the issue as much as it hides the headache:
- first make sure you're as close to mechanically centered as you can be -- zero out your trims (different beep on center) and subtrims (in the menus) and re-mount the servo horn as close to center as the spline will allow (it's almost never dead on
).
- Next, go into the SUB TRIM in the menus and center the servo there by adding/subtracting from the number on that channel until the servo is dead-on center (as best as you can guess).
- Check the throw and if it's still off go into the TRAVEL ADJ to adjust how much the servo can throw in each direction. you can "overdrive the servo by 25% in either direction, so don't stop at 100% if you don't have to. one weird note about travel adj . . . it can do bot the top and bottom of the throw, but it will only show you either the top or bottom at one time. to get to one or the other move the stick for that channel to that side of the throw or the other (ideally, you'll move the stick to the edge on that side, then change the number until it's at/near the limit you want, repeat with the stick on the other side.).
this should center everything up, but you may still need to tweak the subtrim when you start flying, or further limit the travel after you mount the servos.
One last thing . . .
We've been getting a lot of reports lately about structural weakness in the Explorer wing's main spar. It will fly and it doesn't fold until you heavily stress it, but it should be able to take more than it can. If you haven't built that wing yet, I'd recommend beefing it up with a short length of a paint-stick, yardstick, or carbon arrow shaft to strengthen that joint. it'll be better suited for any . . . energetic flying you may attempt in the near future.
Good luck
