Show off your HZ Super Cub!

jetpackninja

More combat please...
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Yeah, mine looks like the one in the crash picture again.
Gotta remember to watch the planes, not the bombs...
 
So then SC guru's...This young'un was wondering if you could in part some advice...
I'm looking to go brushless on my beloved work horse and have tried and kind of failed..
So basicly to make my motor mount all I did was mount a piece of thin ply/thickish balsa, over the base of the angled piece
Of the fire wall using the existing screw holes (used to Mount the old gearbox), and a dab of hot glue, then centered my hexTronik DT750
Screwed that down.. added the prop.. (10*5 I think, the One that is supposed to be used with the foot kit... anyway.. I digress), and I tried a 10*4.7 gws slowfly prop
The 'good' news is that everything held together just fine but my once beautiful flying 3channel cub was now a 4channel Pig, I'd also done a 4channel tape only wing mod..
My cub now had a near uncontrollable desire to hit the Ground by pulling hard right (what I can only assume was torque spin)..
So.. back to the advice part I mentioned.. I was wondering if anyone could recommended a motor, ESC & prop combo.. that I can get from the HKUK warehouse..
And if you have any advice or tips or anything that will help me on my way back to getting my work horse back in the air doing near unlimited vertical and flawless inverted lol anyway thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
Really looking forward to being able to try this before the winter really kicks in..
SC92
 
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Ak Flyer

Fly the wings off
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I published an article on the flitetest main site about my mods and there are some pictures of my motor mount on there. I basically did the same thing you did but I spaced it out so the stock cowling fits over it. What size prop are you using? Also, did you do the wing mods at the same time? It sort of sounds like you may have twisted your wing causing it to roll hard no matter what you do. If you post some pictures of the motor mount, motor and prop and the wing I could tell you more.

Here's the article.
http://flitetest.com/articles/Super_Cub_Mods
 
Yeah I did have to leave the cowling off because of spacing issues but not too bothered by this..
So are you suggesting that the left wing tip might have a bit more lift than the right Causing my spinning issues.?
Unfortunately I am away from my cub for a few days/ weeks because I'm at university
So can't post pictures but will be looking at your article on SC mods for sure.Thanks
SC92
 

Ak Flyer

Fly the wings off
Mentor
Not really more lift, but kind of a built in aileron roll because it's very very easy to leave a twist in the wing along it's length when you do the tape straightening or even just to strengthen it. It will also roll hard if your wing is shifted to one side. A shift to the left will cause the left wing to be longer and produce more lift causing it to roll to the right. A stock wing will do it too but a straightened wing will show problems more because the stock dihedral hides a lot of problems. What all did you do to your wing? Did you do the wing at the same time you swapped the motor? With the motor so close to the firewall how did your cg come out?
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
I just took delivery on a watt meter and wanted to see what all the fuss is about. People talk about 'em all the time, but I didn't really understand what it would do for me. I've had some issues recently with the SC, which I attribute to a combination of n00b + brown-out on the stock electronics. The SC has been stock except for the addition of ailerons, which I understand will draw more power. I'd like to think that the manufacturer wouldn't configure the stock electronics so close to "red-line" that a pair of small servos would put it over the edge, but I know better...

Along with the watt meter I received a new Orange Rx and Turnigy 30A brushed ESC. I know I could/should just upgrade to brushless, but I didn't want to drop a ton of cash upgrading it. The Rx and ESC combined came to about $15.00.

When I ordered a replacement cowl a few months back I ordered an extra pair of props. Unfortunately I didn't notice until delivery that the props were not the stock replacements - they're the props that come with the float kit (10x8 instead of the stock 9x6).

Hey, how much difference can that prop size make? Now that I have the watt meter I found out.

I started with a freshly charged 3S 1800mAh battery and made four pulls. #1 on the stock 9x6, #2 on the 10x8, #3 on the 10x8, and #4 back on the stock 9x6. The electronics were upgraded before testing - I wish I had done the tests before the swap, just to see if there was a difference.

Pull #1 peaked at 12A, 140 watts on the stock 9x6.
Pull #2 peaked at 19A, 210 watts on the 10x8.
Pull #3 peaked around 18A, 203 watts on the 10x8.
Pull #4 peaked around 10A, 125 watts back on the stock 9x6.

I don't know if the new ESC makes any difference over stock, but it sure felt like the SC was pulling harder when I was bench-testing it. I'm hoping for a day with less wind soon so I can really test it out. Fingers are crossed that the brown-outs are now a thing of the past!
 

Ak Flyer

Fly the wings off
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You should be able to run a 10x8 no problem. That's the size prop that comes with the float kit. I ran only 10x8's with my ailerons until I switched to brushless. If you are having problems with the stock setup, check the antenna. The wire likes to come loose or break from the esc when crashed. The orange rx's do it too.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
I agree that I *SHOULD* be able to run the 10x8 with no problem, but from what others are claiming (on the internet, so it must be true) that will pretty much max out the stock electronics. The issues I was having seemed very similar to the problems others had with the stock electronics which is why I upgraded them. The watt meter testing was for my own personal amusement, as I wanted to see what difference the prop would make. As it turns out, it's a pretty significant difference. Throw in the extra servos for the ailerons and a higher C battery and I can see where that could mess up the stock ESC/Rx depending on it's amp rating (has anybody ever gotten that secret out of HZ?).

I don't think the antenna was the problem. I checked it, the connection was good, so I gave it a dab of hot glue to hold it in place. Range testing confirmed it was ok. Vibration during flight might change all that, but from what I could tell the antenna wasn't an issue.
 

Ak Flyer

Fly the wings off
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If you are running good quality servos you shouldn't have any trouble at all. I'd be very surprised if you had any trouble due to the extra two servos. I've run that setup for a long time and my friend is still running his with ailerons and the stock motor and esc with no troubles for a couple years now. I keep telling him to go brushless but he's focused on his 3D indoor planes lol. What servos are you using?
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Update: it was windy today, but I took the SC out anyway to test out the new electronics. Everything went smooth as possible. A rolling take-off into the wind took about 3' of blacktop thanks to the strong winds, it carried plenty of power to fight against the wind, and none of the previous issues were detected. Was it just the antenna or the entire ESC/RX? No idea for certain, but I'm hoping that those demons have been exorcised.

Landing speed wasn't much more than walking speed. If I had flaps I probably could have hovered. :)
 
So just a question again but does anyone have any ideas on a power plant and ESC combo for my cub... parts from HK UK so I can get them in my next order whenever that may be.
I was thinking about using another hexTronik DT750 when they are back in stock.. maybe use it to swing my 10*8 I don't really know..
Would love to see a list of every ones brushless Stats all in one place not trawling through page after page.
Thanks guys
SC92
 

jetpackninja

More combat please...
Mentor
SC92- How do you want to fly?
I think the DT700 or DT750 motor would be an excellent choice for close to stock performance in a brushless.
I think that the DT750 will swing a way bigger prop than 10x6. I've done 11x4.3 and have a 12 in prop or two that I want to try...

My setup is the Hobbypartz Rocket series 3010 motor 1400kv version. (basically a 480 sized motor.
Awesome performance, but if I had it to do again I would go with maybe an 1100kv motor.

Something like this if you are buying from Hobbyking:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=16230
 
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Ak Flyer

Fly the wings off
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Turnigy park 480 motor, turnigy 40 amp esc, APC 12x7 prop, Turnigy 3S 2200 battery. Unbelievable power, instant takeoff, unlimited vertical, will hover the cub with the floats on it.
 
This is the thing I would like to able to fly like ak but worried that I'm not going to be able to handle the speed as the fastest plane I have atm is the bixler.
Think I will maybe try the dt750 again but just have to work out what the weird characteristics were caused by.. will have to take a look at the wing like you sed.
Might just get rid of the tape and cut the middle section out as it's a wing that's already been split in two which is why I chose it to do the mod on In the first place.
Maybe doing this will help straighten things out..
Will have a look to make sure its not something really obvious first thought..
I don't go motor sizes and wot they mean..
A 480.. link wot is tht reference to and how can I then tell wot that motor can pull.? Sorry for being such a noon in these matters but I am interested in actually learning these things :)
SC92
 

Ak Flyer

Fly the wings off
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I would say if you can handle a bixler then a hot cub should be no problem. The cub with the straight wing is going to be less forgiving though. When you try to fly a cub super slow the large dihedral lets them sort of hang in the air and it's really cool. When you straighten the wing and add some weight then they will tend to tip stall and drop a wing. Your options are to land with more speed or really be on your game if you are trying to come in super slow. Normal landings aren't a problem at all, I'm talking more like super slow short field landings, almost hovering slow. Basically your stall speed is going to increase a bit and the stall characteristics have changed. As far as the speed though, if you have room to practice landing with a bit of speed then work your way down you'll do fine.