Simple Cub... With a TWIST

[BATTLEAXE]

I love ball parks.

I hate chain link fence, steel reinforced concrete, and metal bleachers.

All of which do weird things to radio and horrid things to motors, props, wings, cameras, and ESCs.

Outfield is a cool place to fly. Infield, not so much. At least not when you are learning, IMO.

Bummer about the foam, but how are the electronics?

Assuming the electronics are sound, YOU CAN FIX THIS. You built this. You can totally fix this.

When you do, before you maiden the plane, test the flight control directions and film that test so we can see both the control surfaces and the movement of the sticks. Then film the balance and show the CG with the lipo in place.

I'm bettin' you had a reversed rudder today or a tail heavy plane.

It could be a multitude of things, all are good places to look for any defects or discrepancies. I haven't built the Simple Cub myself yet so I can't make any opinions on the plane itself. But as a beginner in the flying the planes I build game I will tell you that I have crashed and trashed twice as many planes as I have flown successfully to date, actually there might even be a wider spread to that ratio. I have a dozen FT plans sitting on my bench that have been built at least once, 3 of them have been built twice. Planes i have on the shelf right now, Baby Blender, Spitfire, half a Simple Scout which took a good hit last night and tore the tail off, Mini Mustang, a Mini Speedster Biplane and a Shrubsmacker (Mini Storch). It has only been recently as in the past couple of weeks that i have actually been able to get a whole battery through any of them without significant damage. My first plane i built wasn't a DTFB design but a from scratch Dehavilland Beaver that I spent the better part of 2 months building with no idea on what i was doing. That was a disappointment in a half to say the least.

The one thing i did learn the hard way over time, plane after wrecked plane, I wasn't using enough throttle on take off or hand launch. I was apprehensive to damage the plane which on it's own is what damaged the plane. Not enough airspeed over the control surfaces and wing to create enough lift to get the aerodynamics to take effect and work the plane. in being to scared to crash that's exactly what I served myself, crash after crash. Now i like to start just over half throttle on a hand launch and give it more throttle upon it leaving my hand, even up to 3/4 just to get it to climb an not stall. plane seems to lose a lot of momentum and speed once it leaves the ground or your hand. not only does it have to pull itself forward but once it loses contact with the ground or your hand now it has a second job of creating lift to defy gravity, effectively working twice as hard. Now that I look at it like that I am so much more confident in my launches, and once it's in the air it is so much easier to correct anything else with trim.

That's my 2 cents worth as a beginner to a beginner. Maybe it helps, maybe it doesn't. Either way don't give up. Once it clicks the learning curve is so expediential that you will be surprised everytime you take flight. Thx for reading

 

[PoorManRC]

Chopping the Nose is a real possibility.... Later. The pictures help.......

It could be a multitude of things, all are good places to look for any defects or discrepancies. I haven't built the Simple Cub myself yet so I can't make any opinions on the plane itself. But as a beginner in the flying the planes I build game I will tell you that I have crashed and trashed twice as many planes as I have flown successfully to date, actually there might even be a wider spread to that ratio. I have a dozen FT plans sitting on my bench that have been built at least once, 3 of them have been built twice. Planes i have on the shelf right now, Baby Blender, Spitfire, half a Simple Scout which took a good hit last night and tore the tail off, Mini Mustang, a Mini Speedster Biplane and a Shrubsmacker (Mini Storch). It has only been recently as in the past couple of weeks that i have actually been able to get a whole battery through any of them without significant damage. My first plane i built wasn't a DTFB design but a from scratch Dehavilland Beaver that I spent the better part of 2 months building with no idea on what i was doing. That was a disappointment in a half to say the least.

The one thing i did learn the hard way over time, plane after wrecked plane, I wasn't using enough throttle on take off or hand launch. I was apprehensive to damage the plane which on it's own is what damaged the plane. Not enough airspeed over the control surfaces and wing to create enough lift to get the aerodynamics to take effect and work the plane. in being to scared to crash that's exactly what I served myself, crash after crash. Now i like to start just over half throttle on a hand launch and give it more throttle upon it leaving my hand, even up to 3/4 just to get it to climb an not stall. plane seems to lose a lot of momentum and speed once it leaves the ground or your hand. not only does it have to pull itself forward but once it loses contact with the ground or your hand now it has a second job of creating lift to defy gravity, effectively working twice as hard. Now that I look at it like that I am so much more confident in my launches, and once it's in the air it is so much easier to correct anything else with trim.

That's my 2 cents worth as a beginner to a beginner. Maybe it helps, maybe it doesn't. Either way don't give up. Once it clicks the learning curve is so expediential that you will be surprised everytime you take flight. Thx for reading

I don't know HOW to quit!!
I just want to step away from THIS one....

FOUND the Problem - BUILDER ERROR! 😲😖
So many People don't get, that I don't Fly like most...

With my Legs, I NEED the ability to Taxi. Being a lifetime SCALE Modeler, having a Plane that just JUMPS into the Air just doesn't do it for me!

It's OK if nobody gets that. I'm not, nor will I ever be, "Build, Fly, Crash, Repeat".
I WILL EVENTUALLY FIGURE OUT how to get the Ground Manners of a $1000 RC Aircraft - that I'll NEVER be able to afford. I don't think it will happen anytime soon. Maybe if I get this to work - I might just help out some closet Model Aircraft NERD, who also wants to Fly! 😉

So WHAT was the Problem? It started with installing the Tail Gear, AFTER installing the Vstab!!
I had to shove and contort that Gear Wire in, that I weakened the Rudder...

In a way that I COULDN'T see, while sitting on the Bench!

When I got to the Field, doing ground exercises, somewhere at THAT time, the Rudder got way too soft.
The Tail Wheel was Cambering severely, and my CRAP eyes couldn't see it.

Deciding to ramp up the Throttle and shoot her into the Air, put me in the fateful position of Flying with a Rudder, on a 3 Channel Aircraft, that FLOPPED in ANY direction IT wanted to.
Result: Noseplant! 💔

Oh yeah, MY FAULT #6 - I FORGOT MY Glasses!!! 😠😖

The Plane was BALANCED. (Slightly Nose Down!)
ALL controls were moving in the RIGHT direction. VIDEO Pt. 4, I show me testing that.

I'm not a N00b....

However - I made SEVERAL, colossal N00b Mistakes!!
In the last second, I was so worried about letting everyone down, I panicked! Plain and simple.

I kept telling my Wife to STOP recording while I was having problems with Taxi Tests....
That when I just punched it, the camera was in her PURSE.

I NEVER got to test the ONE reason why I was building it in the first place...
The Landing Gear Mod - that I calculated ad nauseum to mostly PREVENT Nose Overs on Landing. 😖

I'll revisit this, but I've got Threads on my Scout and Storch Builds, that I'd love to make FLY. 😊

I really do appreciate ALL the support!! Other Hobbies don't have NEAR this kind of camaraderie! 👊👍👍

 

[Steve Fox]

You could always replace the vertical stab with a solid one with no moving rudder, they are not needed for flying and mine is never ever used In flight and is simply a trim tool for me.

I keep meaning to build my next builds without a working rudder but I go into autopilot and before I've realisation I've done I've already cut the bevel hinge is glued in the vertical stab and then realised but by then it's too late and I have to fit a servo lol.

If you look at my videos from about a month ago you can see my cub doing 'jiggles' that was caused by a failing rudder servo.
my rudder was fluttering non stop and also did the occasional uncommanded full deflection which made flying interesting but I couldn't be bothered to change the servo and flew with it lime that for over a month lol.

 

[Steve Fox]

Chopping the Nose is a real possibility.... Later. The pictures help.......

that damage was caused by suffering wing loss at around 400-500ft and doing a spiral nose dive straight down into the ground at speed, anything can be fixed

Very old video but still funny when I see it bury itself 3n into the mud.
Was a very windy day and going inverted just put too much strain on the rubber bands, if you look at some of the inverted flight and watch the lines in the crops you can see I'm literally going sideways from the wind ha ha.

 

[PoorManRC]

You could always replace the vertical stab with a solid one with no moving rudder, they are not needed for flying and mine is never ever used In flight and is simply a trim tool for me.

I keep meaning to build my next builds without a working rudder but I go into autopilot and before I've realisation I've done I've already cut the bevel hinge is glued in the vertical stab and then realised but by then it's too late and I have to fit a servo lol.

If you look at my videos from about a month ago you can see my cub doing 'jiggles' that was caused by a failing rudder servo.
my rudder was fluttering non stop and also did the occasional uncommanded full deflection which made flying interesting but I couldn't be bothered to change the servo and flew with it lime that for over a month lol.

"Deciding to ramp up the Throttle and shoot her into the Air, put me in the fateful position of Flying with a Rudder, on a 3 Channel Aircraft, that FLOPPED in ANY direction IT wanted to.
Result: Noseplant!"

...... I had really wanted to keep this a 3 Channel.
I guess I could cut the Ailerons, do Bank and Yank, and have the Rudder Servo just control the Tail Wheel.

Again, the ability to Taxi - is a NON Negotiable feature! 😋

 

[Steve Fox]

"Deciding to ramp up the Throttle and shoot her into the Air, put me in the fateful position of Flying with a Rudder, on a 3 Channel Aircraft, that FLOPPED in ANY direction IT wanted to.
Result: Noseplant!"

...... I had really wanted to keep this a 3 Channel.
I guess I could cut the Ailerons, do Bank and Yank, and have the Rudder Servo just control the Tail Wheel.

Again, the ability to Taxi - is a NON Negotiable feature! 😋

oh, you built it without ailerons?!!!
no wonder you had no control!
all planes should have ailerons and i completely disagree with flite test pushing new pilots ( not you) to build 3ch planes, they are NOT easier to fly, they lack control and even with a rudder thats failed and gone full deflection in one direction, you can completely counter it with ailerons and prevent a crash.

Ive never flown a 3ch rudder only plane, i started out on ailerons and i always encourage other to do the same and ignore flite tests advice, you have 20x more control.

on another note , we cant post images on youtube unfortunately but heres what i mean about the field i had to trek through to retrieve that cub after the crash lol

 

[Wildthing]

oh, you built it without ailerons?!!!
no wonder you had no control!
all planes should have ailerons and i completely disagree with flite test pushing new pilots ( not you) to build 3ch planes, they are NOT easier to fly, they lack control and even with a rudder thats failed and gone full deflection in one direction, you can completely counter it with ailerons and prevent a crash.

Ive never flown a 3ch rudder only plane, i started out on ailerons and i always encourage other to do the same and ignore flite tests advice, you have 20x more control.

on another note , we cant post images on youtube unfortunately but heres what i mean about the field i had to trek through to retrieve that cub after the crash lol

Rudder is my last option to install. Ailerons and elevator are always the first and then on the park jets I do elevons along with ailerons.

 

[PoorManRC]

That makes such good sense! I got too comfortable with my 4 little 3 Channel Minis...

DUH!!!! 😖
I fly REAL Aircraft with Ailerons - for STEERING!
Like I said, pages ago....
I've watched EVERY FT Build Video, at least TWICE!! I let that bit get stuck inside my Head!!

@Steve Fox THAT was one MUDDY Walk of Shame!! 😣

 

[Vimana89]

I actually love 3ch RET planes with no ailerons or elevons. That could be because I'm hand launching, and also I'm flying a lot of more touchy and unconventional planes that have more than enough response and control and actually could use a bit of taming and don't gain a whole lot from elevons or ailerons(Nutball variants, extra slender deltas, etc.). I find the dihedral self leveling effect to be a big help, and that's best for RET setups as a lot of dihedral clashes with ailerons or elevons. I have no trouble controlling these kinds of planes at all, but if you don't dial em in right and learn their handling they can feel a bit "choppy" rather than smooth on maneuvers

That being said, on a larger, conventional plane like your trying to build, with what your needs and specifications are that you outlined, you should try ailerons on the Cub when you go back and repair/modify. Leave the Scout RET though, that's a good RET plane.

 

[kilroy07]

In the first year I was teaching myself to fly RC I relied heavily on 3 channel aircraft...
When I started to translate to 4 channel, I found it very difficult.

First off, they just fly "different"...
Second I didn't learn the muscle memory for the rudder... (I have since learned a trick to set the rudder to the "rudder channel" even on a 3 channel... although, that just REALLY confuses me at this point...)

I guess what I'm saying is, be careful relying too much on 3 channel....
They are nice simple to fly, but... it might teach you some bad habits.

 

[PoorManRC]

I actually love 3ch RET planes with no ailerons or elevons. That could be because I'm hand launching, and also I'm flying a lot of more touchy and unconventional planes that have more than enough response and control and actually could use a bit of taming and don't gain a whole lot from elevons or ailerons(Nutball variants, extra slender deltas, etc.). I find the dihedral self leveling effect to be a big help, and that's best for RET setups as a lot of dihedral clashes with ailerons or elevons. I have no trouble controlling these kinds of planes at all, but if you don't dial em in right and learn their handling they can feel a bit "choppy" rather than smooth on maneuvers

That being said, on a larger, conventional plane like your trying to build, with what your needs and specifications are that you outlined, you should try ailerons on the Cub when you go back and repair/modify. Leave the Scout RET though, that's a good RET plane.

Thanks again, for understanding EXACTLY what I'm trying to do!!! 👊😊🍻
All of my Minis are RET Aircraft. But they're practically weightless. I feel like the 2S Batry weighs MORE than the whole Plane!
THEY seem to like the rudimentary "point and shoot Flying.

"but if you don't dial em in right and learn their handling they can feel a bit "choppy" rather than smooth on maneuvers"

SO TRUE!!!
And if you happen to have a Control Surface that's been folded and weak - and DON'T always check your CRAP - then you have an unguided SCUD Missile!!! 😜

YOU are pushing the RC Flight envelope in a different direction, but with all the Passion and Determination I am. We're NOT building "Bashers and Crashers", we're using different skillsets and pushing this CHEAP yet FUN Technology forward.
But in the Spirit of why this Company was formed in the FIRST Place!!

 

[BATTLEAXE]

In the first year I was teaching myself to fly RC I relied heavily on 3 channel aircraft...
When I started to translate to 4 channel, I found it very difficult.

First off, they just fly "different"...
Second I didn't learn the muscle memory for the rudder... (I have since learned a trick to set the rudder to the "rudder channel" even on a 3 channel... although, that just REALLY confuses me at this point...)

I guess what I'm saying is, be careful relying too much on 3 channel....
They are nice simple to fly, but... it might teach you some bad habits.

For me I found that the RET 3 channel set up just got me used to input control and response from the plane, and as a dihedral design it was an easy transition into the AET 3 channel mix to know what the latter set up was going to do in flight. Yes AET has way more response and control and sets you up nice for a 4 channels set up, but I found once on 4 channel that the rudder isn't being used much except for trim and lining up landings while maintaining a level roll axis, or for scale turns.

Everyone is different and learns just as different. I could see myself as comfortable and confident with a bank and yank as with a 4 channel if i had to choose between the two. It's all a how it clicks for you kinda deal. In fact build a 4 channel and run a few batteries through as a RET set up and then move to the AET set up for a few batteries. Then plug them all in and see how much of a difference you notice, go with what is comfortable for you.

 

[PoorManRC]

In the first year I was teaching myself to fly RC I relied heavily on 3 channel aircraft...
When I started to translate to 4 channel, I found it very difficult.

First off, they just fly "different"...
Second I didn't learn the muscle memory for the rudder... (I have since learned a trick to set the rudder to the "rudder channel" even on a 3 channel... although, that just REALLY confuses me at this point...)

I guess what I'm saying is, be careful relying too much on 3 channel....
They are nice simple to fly, but... it might teach you some bad habits.

100% Tim!!
I just read and wrote similar right above this!
As I said, I Pilot REAL Planes using AILERONS for Steering in the Air.
MANY Modelers can't really realize that the RUDDER, in a 1:1 Bird, is nothing more than a Control Surface to help with Yaw Authority, particularly in cross Winds.

Flying my 3ch Minis around may have actually POISONED my Muscle Memory! I'll work on getting that back.....

 

[Vimana89]

I tried a tailed version of my slender delta with ailerons. It banked clean and smooth, but I lost control trying to do axial rolls. I may try something a little more docile with 3ch AET soon. there's a few I've been looking at for the FTFC challenge. From there I'll probably step it up to 4ch. So basically I'm at the point I can fly a plane with ailerons, but want to build the right one that flies well and really benefits from the control scheme.Progress takes time and a bit of repetition.Just keep plugging away at your builds. You'll get them to where you want them soon enough👍.

 

[PoorManRC]

I tried a tailed version of my slender delta with ailerons. It banked clean and smooth, but I lost control trying to do axial rolls. I may try something a little more docile with 3ch AET soon. there's a few I've been looking at for the FTFC challenge. From there I'll probably step it up to 4ch. So basically I'm at the point I can fly a plane with ailerons, but want to build the right one that flies well and really benefits from the control scheme. Progress takes time and a bit of repetition. Just keep plugging away at your builds. You'll get them to where you want them soon enough👍.

Again, EXACTLY!! The Wright Brothers CRASHED a few Gliders, before they found a configuration that was controllable.

Your Slender Delta is Beautiful, and I can't wait to see it at what you consider its potential!! 👍👍

You know what? I JUST graduated myself to 4 Channel. 😲 Permanently!
There have been some GREAT points made here.

With all four Control Functions AVAILABLE, I don't HAVE to use them all... I could Fly AET if I want, completely disregarding the Rudder (or even add a couple of clicks of Rudder with Ailerons in Channel MIXING!).

~OR~

CHOOSE to Fly as a RET, with the Ailerons there if I need them! 😉

Thank you @BATTLEAXE ! You've just put the last missing piece into my Old Fart Brain... That MIGHT put getting better at RC Flight into better perspective for me! 👍👍

The Flyweight Minis and Cheapo Park Flyers I've been playing with are DESIGNED to Fly OK, but not actually give the user the REAL experience of controllable Flight.

Ya know, using the self stabilization feature of Dihedral... I even added a few extra Degrees to Tubby Cubby's Wing.
BUT, with the damage to that Rudder, causing "autonomous steering", she was doomed from the start!!

STOP THE PRESSES!! I FINALLY GET IT!
CRASHING, although painful AND expensive beyond my means, is a invaluable Tool to improve the Aircraft - AND the User! 😁

 

[basslord1124]

Finally getting a chance to jump in here...had to take our daughter to the doctor yesterday and other family things. I'm not sure about you guys, but I just find posting on message boards easier to do on a PC than on a smartphone.

Hate that it ended in a crash, although I'll be honest, a part of me thought there would be some issues. Not so much about the plane or the construction, but moreso about it's kind of a typical thing with most folks. You do all the prep and everything looks great, but it never fails, something usually ends up happening. I'm sure we've all experienced it.

The damage definitely looks repairable. So I'd just rebuild the nose or you can try and straighten it out as best as you can.

In regards to the rudder...was it turning both good in both directions before you started to taxi and/or take off? I saw what you said about installing the vstab/tailwheel and possibly weakening the rudder. That's possible. I'd just make sure you had good movement in both directions with the rudder before taking off. At first I thought ground looping which is a common problem for cubs style planes but then you said it turned hard in one direction in the air too. You could take a heat gun or hair dryer and melt the glue around the rudder to remove it...assuming you used hot glue. From there, you could decide to repair it or replace it.

Ball parks are good places to fly! Congrats on finding it!

There's nothing wrong with doing 3 channel...3 channel is what helped me get started. Yes you are limited in maneuvers, BUT I think it's a good way to teach someone about orientation when flying toward yourself or away. For starting out, they're great...but you will eventually outgrow them. I built my cub as a 3 channel to help teach new pilots. And like others, since doing 4 channel, I rarely use my rudder.

This is all a learning experience for yourself @PoorManRC and for others. It's part of it. Take what you learned to make it better. Don't give up on it! And really, a cool thing with FT, is that if you find yourself frustrated with a particular plane....you can just as easily move on to another one. Good luck!

 

[PoorManRC]

Finally getting a chance to jump in here...had to take our daughter to the doctor yesterday and other family things. I'm not sure about you guys, but I just find posting on message boards easier to do on a PC than on a smartphone.

Hate that it ended in a crash, although I'll be honest, a part of me thought there would be some issues. Not so much about the plane or the construction, but moreso about it's kind of a typical thing with most folks. You do all the prep and everything looks great, but it never fails, something usually ends up happening. I'm sure we've all experienced it.

The damage definitely looks repairable. So I'd just rebuild the nose or you can try and straighten it out as best as you can.

In regards to the rudder...was it turning both good in both directions before you started to taxi and/or take off? I saw what you said about installing the vstab/tailwheel and possibly weakening the rudder. That's possible. I'd just make sure you had good movement in both directions with the rudder before taking off. At first I thought ground looping which is a common problem for cubs style planes but then you said it turned hard in one direction in the air too. You could take a heat gun or hair dryer and melt the glue around the rudder to remove it...assuming you used hot glue. From there, you could decide to repair it or replace it.

Ball parks are good places to fly! Congrats on finding it!

There's nothing wrong with doing 3 channel...3 channel is what helped me get started. Yes you are limited in maneuvers, BUT I think it's a good way to teach someone about orientation when flying toward yourself or away. For starting out, they're great...but you will eventually outgrow them. I built my cub as a 3 channel to help teach new pilots. And like others, since doing 4 channel, I rarely use my rudder.

This is all a learning experience for yourself @PoorManRC and for others. It's part of it. Take what you learned to make it better. Don't give up on it! And really, a cool thing with FT, is that if you find yourself frustrated with a particular plane....you can just as easily move on to another one. Good luck!

Thank you! I always appreciate your insight, because your situation is closer to mine than many...
Most importantly, hope your Little Girl is doing well.

I have decided, with my experience in 1:1 Flight - instead of treating it like a hindrance - use it!
If I had Ailerons, she STILL would have Crashed....
But I MAY have prevented it from lawn darting under power, before I even knew what happened.

I absolutely did my Radio/Control Surface checks BEFORE attaching the Wing to start moving...

And I DO have Short Video on the ground - NOT Ground Looping, but LOCKING the Tail Wheel left, then right...

It was then MY ASININE decision to Takeoff!!!
THAT WAS MY BIG CLUE. I was just too determined and desperate for a Flight Video, to see the Obvious.

Thing is, for almost a minute, she was flying BEAUTIFULLY, on about 1/3 Throttle!
Then I went to turn it around, and WHIP! SPIN! Dive, crash. Seemed like less than a second.

I really feel that with Ailerons, even with uncontrollable Yaw, I might have been able to get to the grass Outfield for a softer, slower hit.

This whole thing has caused me to think MORE in the past 2 days, than the past 2 years!

Yeah, Nosed STRAIGHT down. No tail damage from impact. That's how I knew that the Rudder was too soft, and STAYED bent to the right, from the Elevator up.

I CAN tell you a couple of things from my initial analysis....
The Balsa bracing in the Fuse, Wing Spar, and Landing Gear Mount - WORKED!
That was a HIGH G hit into HARD Soil. The Nose and Power Pod Mushroomed...

EVERYTHING from the Windshield back - NOTHING!
All 4 Rubber Bands SNAPPED - but zero Wing damage!!

The Plywood Landing Gear reinforcement sustained NO damage.

I'll REBUILD the Nose! I AM going to sandwich Plywood between a double layer of Foam Board, again experimenting....

But will keep the Power Pod as the sacrificial lamb.
I HOPE that my Son can take the completely mangled Power Pod, and redo and make at least 4 more from it.

I got to tell you All, the Right and Down Thrust made it the silkiest, SMOOTHEST Plane I've flown yet!! 👍👍

........... Right up to the complete loss of Control. 😲

 

[Steve Fox]

If you put plywood in, you will damage your plane further back when you next crash, you do not want a super strong nose, it will just transfer all the forces to a point which is not as strong and do worse damage.

The nose crumpling saves the rest of the fuse, when I pile mine Into something, the nose gives and the milk jug plastic on the belly that I have for landing on which starts just slightly forward of the line where the nose stops and the windscreen starts brings the damage to a stop but with flex.

Plywood will rip though your fuse like a pick axe in a crash, do not reinforce your Nose with it!

 

[BATTLEAXE]

If you put plywood in, you will damage your plane further back when you next crash, you do not want a super strong nose, it will just transfer all the forces to a point which is not as strong and do worse damage.

The nose crumpling saves the rest of the fuse, when I pile mine Into something, the nose gives and the milk jug plastic on the belly that I have for landing on which starts just slightly forward of the line where the nose stops and the windscreen starts brings the damage to a stop but with flex.

Plywood will rip though your fuse like a pick axe in a crash, do not reinforce your Nose with it!

This is the second time I've seen you mention the milk jug skid plate on your plane, do you have any pics? I'm curious as to how you made it

 

[Steve Fox]

This is the second time I've seen you mention the milk jug skid plate on your plane, do you have any pics? I'm curious as to how you made it

I just rinse out a milk jug cut the top and bottom off and then slice it into flat sheets to use.

A 6 pint jug yealds enough 'flat ' plastic to make the belly cover in one piece but I now use skimmed milk and they only sell it in 4 pint jugs vs 6 print jugs for semi and full fat annoyingly so I have to make my belly strip in two or three lengths.

I score the plastic in a diamond pattern to give the glue something to grip as milk jug is HDPE and then I just hot glue it to the underside of the plane.

It makes the belly indestructible for landings I land on hard mud and even gravel and bare foam gets trashed on just grass let alone hard ground.

Below is my VERY well used daily cub, it's got a couple of hundred hours on that plane and you can see the scrapes in the paint but the plastic is holding out fine.

Also below is a new build of a GPS cub which I haven't finished yet and haven't painted the plastic yet and you can see what I've done a bit clearer.

although the rest of the fuse is already painted, I always put the plastic on after and blow over it, painting the fuse first makes a stronger surface on the foam under the plastic and stops it pulling the paper soon the foam when it flexes on hard landings.

I put it on all belly landing planes now, the plane lasts and lasts and as I've pointed out in an earlier post, in a crash the nose will crumple but the belly plastic limits how far back the damage goes and will flex in a crash absorbing the force instead of just transferring it further down the fuse.