Well, I couldn't leave the quad without a frame...so last night after my daughter was down I put it back together. It's not "Done" as I do want to clean it up a bit more...but it's ready to fly.
Right after assembly I discovered something that wasn't an issue with the G10 frame, but could be disastrous with a conductive CF frame. When I soldered the battery wires solder wicked up the wires and made them stiff right where they leave the PDB. There's only 3mm of clearance and these wires are almost 3mm thick so things are tight here. You can see where the insulation is getting pinched as a result of all of this. With the G10 frame no big deal, but on a CF frame this could short out my battery. It's something to watch for when building this frame, might be better to put the wires on the other way but I liked the clean look of them coming out of the inside rather than hanging off the bottom. For now I added some extra electrical tape on the top plate of the frame in this area for additional insulation:
I then started putting things together...only to realize I hadn't finished the CF and the edges while not as sharp as most CF frames were still sharp enough to worry me. So it all had to come apart again and get sanded. That actually went really quick. There's a lot less to sand than in a H frame and this CF sanded fairly easily with 400 grit. After about 20 minutes I had nice smooth edges on all my pieces:
Twitchity dyed the nylon FC mounts purple to match the PDB and hardware, it's hard to see in the photos but he nailed it on the color - the Nylon matches the PDB almost perfectly. You can also see here that I bought some longer screws to mount the FC with so I could put O-rings on both sides. I had to rush to get to the hardware store before they closed and it turned out they don't have nylon metric screws
But I did get a dozen o-rings (they're SAE but close enough in size for this purpose) and some black metric 3m x 10mm screws. It turns out though these are too long and leave the FC too loose. So I ended up just going with one O-ring per corner for now as the nylon screws were too short to fit two O-rings.
I'm mounting the KISS ESC's on thick double sided foam tape...but still wanted more protection against shorts on the CF frame. I didn't have enough of the right size shrink wrap to do all four arms so for now I'm just using some electrical tape on the top.
Closer view of the electrical tape.
And another angle. You can see I still have the original DST on the ESC's - it will be coming off shortly.
When I got to the ESC that I think is the one that let out a little puff of smoke when first powered up I found what looked like a small burn hole in the tape!
After removing the tape and looking under a magnifier I don't see any obvious damage, and it's been flying great. But that's one of the FET drivers (the square bit) right where it happened. I'm wondering if the issue Cranial had with the KISS could be due to tape melting and allowing things to short. I double checked that the tape isn't conductive...but maybe it picked up a little something off the build bench and caused a tiny short. I could see something really small shorting out and causing the tape to melt which on my G10 frame was no big deal but on a CF frame may have allowed things to short out and keep getting worse. Since the KISS are made in europe and sold in europe they have to use lead free solder (RoHS compliant - you've probably seen that on electronics)...now most of the issues with lead free solder have been solved but I still hear complaints about it causing microscopic filaments called whiskers that sometimes "grow" after the soldering is done:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whisker_(metallurgy). Pure speculation here...but maybe what's causing failure on the KISSes is whiskers forming on the fets or fet drivers - too small to see unaided but big enough to cause a small short. In a situation like mine no big deal - the whisker burns, the tape melts a little and lets out a puff of smoke and since there's nothing else to conduct a short it's all good. But...if you are on a conductive arm and that tape burns through - things get ugly. Even with insulation on the arm that could burn through as well (I've had heat shrink fail on an CF arm even though the arm was sanded - when the shrink shrank it stretched too much at the edges and tore.) I may switch to using some of my silicone self fusing repair tape as an insulation method as I trust it to not burn more than electrical tape and this apparently easily burned DST.
But...I carried on and kept putting things together. Just about ready to wrap my ESC's, you can see bits of silicone tape I cut laying there waiting. If you look carefully you can also see the bit of the frame by the battery cables where I wrapped it with electrical tape for insulation - but when I clean this build up I may swap that for some black silicone tape as well.
Here's a close up of the KISS mounting. Electrical tape over the arm, DST, then KISS.
I then gave the KISS a wrap of silicone tape for protection. It's not quite as clean looking as heat shrink but I love the utility of it and I think it gives a bit more protection. The tape stretches to about twice it's original length. I found that cut in half lengthwise 3" pieces worked well - but 2" full width pieces use less material and look cleaner since it uses fewer wraps. And as expensive as this tape is using as little as possible is nice. The "clear" is a bit milky for my taste but lets me see those pretty blue LED's on the KISS. This "tape" is really neat stuff for those who've never used it. It's not sticky and leaves no residue. It only sticks to itself - but once it does it fuses and can't be undone. So it makes a very nice insulative cocoon that seems a bit sturdier than heat shrink and can be applied at the end since it doesn't have to slide over. I like it even though it's not quite as pretty.
All done and it came in under 195g before props!
Final weight with props...208g....11g less than my friends warp. Not too bad. But...he has SS2204's (it's also 10g less than my orignal build of this frame.)
Can't wait to fly it. Gave it a quick bench test last night and it seems like the high throttle oscillations I was having are gone. But we'll have to get it in the air to say for sure.