Help! E-MAX RS 2205 2300 Kv motor from a Flite-Test Arrow Value Pack is clogging, what is the problem?

[Almighty_Chonk]

Hello everybody,

I just bought the “Flite Test Arrow Value Pack” as my 3rd airframe and the motor I got from the pack is not starting up. When I plug the motor leads to the ESC leads, plug ESC into the receiver, connect the battery to the circuit, and raise the throttle, the motor begins to splutter and starts to rotate very slightly and stops when I get halfway to full throttle (problem with the calibration). When I lower the throttle, the and feel the parts, the ESC is very hot and the motor is just as hot. I am currently running a FS-iA6B 6 channel receiver, FS-i6 6CH 2.4GHz Transmitter, Flite Test 20A ESC, EMAX RS 2205 2300kV motor, 2 Flite Test ES9051 (4.3g) Digital Servos and a Lumenier 850mAh 3s 35c Lipo Battery (XT-30). Can you please help me figure out whats wrong? Thank you for the help in advance.

Thank you,
Vunal

 

[Ratcheeroo]

Is the ESC lead plugged into channel 3?

 

[Almighty_Chonk]

I just double checked it, it is plugged into channel 3.

 

[Bifi.baarlo]

Too long screws

 

[Almighty_Chonk]

The screws I used are from the box, so should I buy other screws?

 

[Bifi.baarlo]

If there is only one lenght in the box, it is maybe oke, you can watch if the screws touches the copper windings, if not, there is another problem.

 

[speedy7385]

did you made an esc calibration? throttle stick up, plug in esc, after the beeps and then move the throttle stick all the way down.

 

[Almighty_Chonk]

@speedy7385 I just calibrated it, and the motor is still rattling. @Bifi.baarlo There was another bag of screws in there, but they seem to be almost the same size.

 

[skymaster]

remove the screws and if it still sputters, you got a bad esc.
if you have and extra esc switch it

 

[Bifi.baarlo]

@speedy7385 I just calibrated it, and the motor is still rattling. @Bifi.baarlo There was another bag of screws in there, but they seem to be almost the same size.

When the screws are too long, you can see that they (almost) touch the copper windings, if you can't see the screws on the inner side of the bottom part of the motor, than that is not the problem.

 

[cgisneccesaray]

Do you have a seperate esc to test the motor on? And is it possible to record what it does?

 

[Almighty_Chonk]

@skymaster I removed the screws and the motor still sputters

 

[Ratcheeroo]

does the motor turn freely by hand?

 

[quorneng]

My reading of the symptoms is you have a bad connection on one motor wires.
The ESC is sending the normal starting pulse to the motor to make is jump but without the third motor wire connected the ESC cannot 'read' which way the motor is turning so it cannot organise the correct pulses to keep it running. It just sends another pulse.
These pulses a big, larger than any running amps, but under normal circumstances only one is sent but in this fail condition repeated pulses mean everything gets very hot very quickly and if you continue for too long something, usually the ESC, will fail. Indeed it may have already.
So check all the connections between the ESC & motor very carefully.
As suggested by far the easiest solution is to connect another ESC that is known to work. If the motor still only 'jumps' then the problem is with the motor or its local connections. Logical component 'substitution' is by far the best way to diagnose problems.

These motors can be wrecked if the mounting screws go too far in and touch the motor windings.
This is one I keep on my bench to remind me to be very careful with mounting screws.

 

[skymaster]

check the bullet connectors on each side to see if any are loose or poorly solder

 

[speedy7385]

Try another ESC, my motor chattering went away and run smoothy after.

 

[Test Fly RC]

Hello everybody,

I just bought the “Flite Test Arrow Value Pack” as my 3rd airframe and the motor I got from the pack is not starting up. When I plug the motor leads to the ESC leads, plug ESC into the receiver, connect the battery to the circuit, and raise the throttle, the motor begins to splutter and starts to rotate very slightly and stops when I get halfway to full throttle (problem with the calibration). When I lower the throttle, the and feel the parts, the ESC is very hot and the motor is just as hot. I am currently running a FS-iA6B 6 channel receiver, FS-i6 6CH 2.4GHz Transmitter, Flite Test 20A ESC, EMAX RS 2205 2300kV motor, 2 Flite Test ES9051 (4.3g) Digital Servos and a Lumenier 850mAh 3s 35c Lipo Battery (XT-30). Can you please help me figure out whats wrong? Thank you for the help in advance.

Thank you,
Vunal

This might help: Turn on your transmitter then raise the throttle to full then plug in a battery to the esc and then lower the throttle after you hear the motor beep a few times and stop. (Make sure your Transmitter is bound to your Receiver first)
And also make sure you are using the Smaller screws NOT the bigger screws that come in the motor box with the FT Arrow value bundle!

My brother got the FT Arrow value bundle too,
Here are some picures of the screws.

 

[Almighty_Chonk]

does the motor turn freely by hand?

Yup, the motor still turns freely by hand.

 

[Almighty_Chonk]

This might help: Turn on your transmitter then raise the throttle to full then plug in a battery to the esc and then lower the throttle after you hear the motor beep a few times and stop. (Make sure your Transmitter is bound to your Receiver first)
And also make sure you are using the Smaller screws NOT the bigger screws that come in the motor box with the FT Arrow value bundle!

My brother got the FT Arrow value bundle too,
Here are some picures of the screws.
View attachment 202036
View attachment 202037

Oh

 

[Almighty_Chonk]

My reading of the symptoms is you have a bad connection on one motor wires.
The ESC is sending the normal starting pulse to the motor to make is jump but without the third motor wire connected the ESC cannot 'read' which way the motor is turning so it cannot organise the correct pulses to keep it running. It just sends another pulse.
These pulses a big, larger than any running amps, but under normal circumstances only one is sent but in this fail condition repeated pulses mean everything gets very hot very quickly and if you continue for too long something, usually the ESC, will fail. Indeed it may have already.
So check all the connections between the ESC & motor very carefully.
As suggested by far the easiest solution is to connect another ESC that is known to work. If the motor still only 'jumps' then the problem is with the motor or its local connections. Logical component 'substitution' is by far the best way to diagnose problems.

These motors can be wrecked if the mounting screws go too far in and touch the motor windings.
This is one I keep on my bench to remind me to be very careful with mounting screws.
View attachment 201982

Since everything got hot already, should I buy another ESC?